BMW 328i Sport
Discussion
After 3 years of Panda ownership, I was starting to get tired of the stiff ride, lack of power and refinement and funny comments I get from people for driving a panda.
Started looking into older BMW's as I think they've started to look really nice! Started off looking at E34 525i Sports, E30 325i Tourings and came across this:
Drove 4 hours to see it and a test drive and good chat with the seller later, it was all mine!!!
I'm absolutely chuffed with it, despite a little bit of bubbling, arb/drop link clunks and a radio harness that's been absolutely butchered! Going to a straight 6 after a 4 cylinder is really nice, so smooth and refined compared to the Panda.
Little touches like the window dropping a tad when you open the door, the fade on the interior lighting as it turns off slowly, the boot hinges (sad, I know) have got me really appreciating the effort that went into making this car.
It's also completely original which really drew my attention to it, all the way down to the original BBS split rims. Plans are to keep it this way, sort the rust and a few breathing mods to release a little bit of straight 6 goodness.
Can't stop looking back after parking it!
Started looking into older BMW's as I think they've started to look really nice! Started off looking at E34 525i Sports, E30 325i Tourings and came across this:
Drove 4 hours to see it and a test drive and good chat with the seller later, it was all mine!!!
I'm absolutely chuffed with it, despite a little bit of bubbling, arb/drop link clunks and a radio harness that's been absolutely butchered! Going to a straight 6 after a 4 cylinder is really nice, so smooth and refined compared to the Panda.
Little touches like the window dropping a tad when you open the door, the fade on the interior lighting as it turns off slowly, the boot hinges (sad, I know) have got me really appreciating the effort that went into making this car.
It's also completely original which really drew my attention to it, all the way down to the original BBS split rims. Plans are to keep it this way, sort the rust and a few breathing mods to release a little bit of straight 6 goodness.
Can't stop looking back after parking it!
Just lovely cars. I have an e36 323 convertible which is a lovely thing, although sadly rust is taking hold and I fear it is just not worth sorting out. Having said that, an honest e36 manual 6 pot is a rare thing these days so maybe it would be worth getting it tidied up a bit.
My brother has a genuine e36 328 Sport in technoviolet which is just so nice. Fabulous drive, still quick now, but easy to work on. Shame rust and wannabe drifters have killed so many. Keep it standard and it will hold its value.
My brother has a genuine e36 328 Sport in technoviolet which is just so nice. Fabulous drive, still quick now, but easy to work on. Shame rust and wannabe drifters have killed so many. Keep it standard and it will hold its value.
NiceCupOfTea said:
Just lovely cars. I have an e36 323 convertible which is a lovely thing, although sadly rust is taking hold and I fear it is just not worth sorting out. Having said that, an honest e36 manual 6 pot is a rare thing these days so maybe it would be worth getting it tidied up a bit.
My brother has a genuine e36 328 Sport in technoviolet which is just so nice. Fabulous drive, still quick now, but easy to work on. Shame rust and wannabe drifters have killed so many. Keep it standard and it will hold its value.
Technoviolet is a gorgeous color! Wish I could've found one of those in decent nick, but the 2 I saw for sale were too far gone rust wise. I was surprised at how quick the 328's still are! despite having driven a modified 335i a few times and friends with mostly 200+ HP cars. The sound is fantastic too despite having an original exhaust and intake. My brother has a genuine e36 328 Sport in technoviolet which is just so nice. Fabulous drive, still quick now, but easy to work on. Shame rust and wannabe drifters have killed so many. Keep it standard and it will hold its value.
If there's one thing I can fault it for, it's that there's no rear wing that usually comes with the M-Tech kit. But that's quite easily solved.
I plan to stick to a fairly standard look for the car, I've seen some with angel eyes and projectors and chav body kits that I'm not so fond of, and the "standardness" of the car is what drew me to it in the first place.
Looks like a good base car.
I used to have a Techno 328i sport. It was a fantastic car and sounded amazing (M3 exhaust and open cone filter).
A little lip spoiler improves the rear end nicely, as would amber indicators and the LSD off the M3 will make it much more fun to drive too.
Good Luck!
I used to have a Techno 328i sport. It was a fantastic car and sounded amazing (M3 exhaust and open cone filter).
A little lip spoiler improves the rear end nicely, as would amber indicators and the LSD off the M3 will make it much more fun to drive too.
Good Luck!
Dannbodge said:
Looks like a good base car.
I used to have a Techno 328i sport. It was a fantastic car and sounded amazing (M3 exhaust and open cone filter).
A little lip spoiler improves the rear end nicely, as would amber indicators and the LSD off the M3 will make it much more fun to drive too.
Good Luck!
Would love a techno!! Was your M3 exhaust manifold to backbox? I used to have a Techno 328i sport. It was a fantastic car and sounded amazing (M3 exhaust and open cone filter).
A little lip spoiler improves the rear end nicely, as would amber indicators and the LSD off the M3 will make it much more fun to drive too.
Good Luck!
Yep, looked into a little lip spoiler and a massive fan of the amber indicators too! LSD's are a bit expensive these days but I think I'd rather that than a welded diff!
Also slightly guilty because the car seems almost too nice to mess with, it's gone 18 years without anyone modifying it in anyway and almost feels like it would be a shame to do so. Not too sure on how to proceed yet!
Nice looking car.
Coming from soemone who has completely rebuilt an e36 328 sport underneath, my advice it to find some ramp time and investigate rust condition as follows:
1. Front wings at the bottom behind the wheel arch where they wrap aroynd the body. Best way to examine is to remove the wing. Only a few bolts, not complicated.
2. Sills, remove sill covers and examime back to front Will be needed to remove wings anyway. Sill spot rust by the holes/clips hold8ng the covers in place, as well as by jacking holes. Worst places are likely to be the jacking pads/holes underneath the car. Remove pads and inspect.
3. Less common but RTAB pockets. Albeit might be difficult to examine with the arm and bracket in place.
4. Rear arches inside lip. Most rust as the rolled lip holds dirt. You'd be amazed if you run water through a hose and your hand to loosen off dirt how much can come off. Mini termite mount comes to mind.
5. Boot by numberplate area, under the plates, also remove the rubber seal around the boot and inspect.
6. If you go that far, remove all arch liners t9 examine and clean.
X. In some cases the front subframe where the engine mounts are mounted can corrode and weaken. Hard to see without removing the mounts or dropping the subframe.
You will then know what you really have and how to proceed from there....if you really want to keep the car in good n8ck.
Mine is only a track car and even though dont care much about paint and presentation, and considering it wasnt in too much disrepair, it still needed two jacking pads welding, various bits of bodywork, two replacement front wings, etc. etc. We have over 8K in the car including purchase but mostly all rebuild/reconditioning work + some go faster bits
Good luck.
Coming from soemone who has completely rebuilt an e36 328 sport underneath, my advice it to find some ramp time and investigate rust condition as follows:
1. Front wings at the bottom behind the wheel arch where they wrap aroynd the body. Best way to examine is to remove the wing. Only a few bolts, not complicated.
2. Sills, remove sill covers and examime back to front Will be needed to remove wings anyway. Sill spot rust by the holes/clips hold8ng the covers in place, as well as by jacking holes. Worst places are likely to be the jacking pads/holes underneath the car. Remove pads and inspect.
3. Less common but RTAB pockets. Albeit might be difficult to examine with the arm and bracket in place.
4. Rear arches inside lip. Most rust as the rolled lip holds dirt. You'd be amazed if you run water through a hose and your hand to loosen off dirt how much can come off. Mini termite mount comes to mind.
5. Boot by numberplate area, under the plates, also remove the rubber seal around the boot and inspect.
6. If you go that far, remove all arch liners t9 examine and clean.
X. In some cases the front subframe where the engine mounts are mounted can corrode and weaken. Hard to see without removing the mounts or dropping the subframe.
You will then know what you really have and how to proceed from there....if you really want to keep the car in good n8ck.
Mine is only a track car and even though dont care much about paint and presentation, and considering it wasnt in too much disrepair, it still needed two jacking pads welding, various bits of bodywork, two replacement front wings, etc. etc. We have over 8K in the car including purchase but mostly all rebuild/reconditioning work + some go faster bits
Good luck.
Yadizzle1 said:
Technoviolet is a gorgeous color! Wish I could've found one of those in decent nick, but the 2 I saw for sale were too far gone rust wise. I was surprised at how quick the 328's still are! despite having driven a modified 335i a few times and friends with mostly 200+ HP cars. The sound is fantastic too despite having an original exhaust and intake.
If there's one thing I can fault it for, it's that there's no rear wing that usually comes with the M-Tech kit. But that's quite easily solved.
I plan to stick to a fairly standard look for the car, I've seen some with angel eyes and projectors and chav body kits that I'm not so fond of, and the "standardness" of the car is what drew me to it in the first place.
Spoiler seems to divide opinion - I like it, but dealers fitted them badly and they caused rust. Make sure you rustproof. Avoid cheap aftermarket lights etc. Fit ambers if you must be the sport had clear corners as standard and it looks so much better as standard. Maybe get some style 30s for winter wheels (BBS don't do well in the salt). IMHO don't get drawn into the exhausts and M50 manifold etc., keep it original.If there's one thing I can fault it for, it's that there's no rear wing that usually comes with the M-Tech kit. But that's quite easily solved.
I plan to stick to a fairly standard look for the car, I've seen some with angel eyes and projectors and chav body kits that I'm not so fond of, and the "standardness" of the car is what drew me to it in the first place.
A standard 328 Sport sounds fantastic and I reckon my brother's still shows my e46 330 a clean pair of heels even with a 40bhp deficit.
IMHO keep it standard, get rid of any rust and protect against it, and enjoy as BMW intended.
love the sport, like said get any rust sorted, I to really like them with the spoiler better still I like the dtm or ltw wing
sorry for the dumb question, but, was the "sport" an actual separate car from the standard 328i, like is it chassis really want an 328is stamped or any doc's.
I really want one but cant find solid info on the matter.
cheers, neil.
sorry for the dumb question, but, was the "sport" an actual separate car from the standard 328i, like is it chassis really want an 328is stamped or any doc's.
I really want one but cant find solid info on the matter.
cheers, neil.
Some years back, I had an E36 328i SE manual saloon. It was brilliant. Better, in some ways, than the 130i I have now. Way underrated and faster than people think.
I may be starting a bit of controversy here. But I actually think BMW deliberately lied about the 328i's 0-60 time, claiming it was slower than it really was! Think they said 7.3 0-62 and 7.1 0-60. Well ..... I know magazine drivers often get slightly faster times. But Autocar tested a heavier estate, and did it in 6.1 seconds! Than means the saloon/coupe would be at least 6.0 if not 5.9. That's some discrepancy. My theory is that BMW realised that if they admitted the 328i was as quick as it really was, the 5.4 second M3, selling for a much heftier price, would never have left the showroom. Weight had something to do with it. M3 IIRC weighed 1540kg, and 328i 1395. Later E46 328i/330i and E90 330i were also much heavier. End of an era.
I may be starting a bit of controversy here. But I actually think BMW deliberately lied about the 328i's 0-60 time, claiming it was slower than it really was! Think they said 7.3 0-62 and 7.1 0-60. Well ..... I know magazine drivers often get slightly faster times. But Autocar tested a heavier estate, and did it in 6.1 seconds! Than means the saloon/coupe would be at least 6.0 if not 5.9. That's some discrepancy. My theory is that BMW realised that if they admitted the 328i was as quick as it really was, the 5.4 second M3, selling for a much heftier price, would never have left the showroom. Weight had something to do with it. M3 IIRC weighed 1540kg, and 328i 1395. Later E46 328i/330i and E90 330i were also much heavier. End of an era.
Chestrockwell said:
Bought a knackered 328i cab for 400 quid on mv4 alloys a few years ago and ragged it around for a month, best fun I ever had, can’t imagine how good your one is to drive being a sport and a coupe! Congrats
I bought a cheap 328i convertible on 143k miles as a 'stop-gap' and ended up keeping it for 4 years! Still miss that car but they start to need SO much maintenance...Rust is a fairly large worry, this one doesn't seem too bad exterior wise. There is minor bubbling on one arch the size of a 20P coin, a small amount starting to come through on the windscreen pillar and the bonnet is the worst. All should be sorted over the coming months. Almost a little afraid to get it in the air and have a proper look underneath as I might discover it's a complete rust bucket! 
The more I drive it, the more I appreciate it for what it is, I would really like to get the car back to excellent condition and just enjoy it for a while. A lot of positive comments on the car even from strangers which is a massive change to the reactions I used to get driving the 100HP! I'm enjoying the weighty feel to all the controls, it's a world apart from modern cars with fly by wire throttles and electronically assisted steering.
Handling wise, it does need looking at, suspension seems fine but there is a clunk coming from the front right wheel which I believe is a knackered drop link. Looking forward to having that sorted and enjoying a bit of tight handling again!
Terrified of removing sill covers but it's gotta be done really! Hopefully it's not as bad as an MX5 of a similar vintage.
Does anybody know how to reprogramme the keyless entry? I've got a fob with a red and grey button but it doesn't seem to do anything apart from light up the little led.
The more I drive it, the more I appreciate it for what it is, I would really like to get the car back to excellent condition and just enjoy it for a while. A lot of positive comments on the car even from strangers which is a massive change to the reactions I used to get driving the 100HP! I'm enjoying the weighty feel to all the controls, it's a world apart from modern cars with fly by wire throttles and electronically assisted steering.
Handling wise, it does need looking at, suspension seems fine but there is a clunk coming from the front right wheel which I believe is a knackered drop link. Looking forward to having that sorted and enjoying a bit of tight handling again!
Humour said:
Nice looking car.
Coming from soemone who has completely rebuilt an e36 328 sport underneath, my advice it to find some ramp time and investigate rust condition as follows:
1. Front wings at the bottom behind the wheel arch where they wrap aroynd the body. Best way to examine is to remove the wing. Only a few bolts, not complicated.
2. Sills, remove sill covers and examime back to front Will be needed to remove wings anyway. Sill spot rust by the holes/clips hold8ng the covers in place, as well as by jacking holes. Worst places are likely to be the jacking pads/holes underneath the car. Remove pads and inspect.
3. Less common but RTAB pockets. Albeit might be difficult to examine with the arm and bracket in place.
4. Rear arches inside lip. Most rust as the rolled lip holds dirt. You'd be amazed if you run water through a hose and your hand to loosen off dirt how much can come off. Mini termite mount comes to mind.
5. Boot by numberplate area, under the plates, also remove the rubber seal around the boot and inspect.
6. If you go that far, remove all arch liners t9 examine and clean.
X. In some cases the front subframe where the engine mounts are mounted can corrode and weaken. Hard to see without removing the mounts or dropping the subframe.
You will then know what you really have and how to proceed from there....if you really want to keep the car in good n8ck.
Mine is only a track car and even though dont care much about paint and presentation, and considering it wasnt in too much disrepair, it still needed two jacking pads welding, various bits of bodywork, two replacement front wings, etc. etc. We have over 8K in the car including purchase but mostly all rebuild/reconditioning work + some go faster bits
Good luck.
Thanks! The advice is much appreciated. I've checked all arches and boot floor and behind the boot seal, all looks well apart from minor surface rust that I'm going to sort this weekend. Coming from soemone who has completely rebuilt an e36 328 sport underneath, my advice it to find some ramp time and investigate rust condition as follows:
1. Front wings at the bottom behind the wheel arch where they wrap aroynd the body. Best way to examine is to remove the wing. Only a few bolts, not complicated.
2. Sills, remove sill covers and examime back to front Will be needed to remove wings anyway. Sill spot rust by the holes/clips hold8ng the covers in place, as well as by jacking holes. Worst places are likely to be the jacking pads/holes underneath the car. Remove pads and inspect.
3. Less common but RTAB pockets. Albeit might be difficult to examine with the arm and bracket in place.
4. Rear arches inside lip. Most rust as the rolled lip holds dirt. You'd be amazed if you run water through a hose and your hand to loosen off dirt how much can come off. Mini termite mount comes to mind.
5. Boot by numberplate area, under the plates, also remove the rubber seal around the boot and inspect.
6. If you go that far, remove all arch liners t9 examine and clean.
X. In some cases the front subframe where the engine mounts are mounted can corrode and weaken. Hard to see without removing the mounts or dropping the subframe.
You will then know what you really have and how to proceed from there....if you really want to keep the car in good n8ck.
Mine is only a track car and even though dont care much about paint and presentation, and considering it wasnt in too much disrepair, it still needed two jacking pads welding, various bits of bodywork, two replacement front wings, etc. etc. We have over 8K in the car including purchase but mostly all rebuild/reconditioning work + some go faster bits
Good luck.
Terrified of removing sill covers but it's gotta be done really! Hopefully it's not as bad as an MX5 of a similar vintage.
irvine1 said:
love the sport, like said get any rust sorted, I to really like them with the spoiler better still I like the dtm or ltw wing
sorry for the dumb question, but, was the "sport" an actual separate car from the standard 328i, like is it chassis really want an 328is stamped or any doc's.
I really want one but cant find solid info on the matter.
cheers, neil.
I'm not 100% sure but I think it says on the logbook 328i Sport. As far as I'm aware though it's just a trim version, with bilstein/avus suspension being the only difference. sorry for the dumb question, but, was the "sport" an actual separate car from the standard 328i, like is it chassis really want an 328is stamped or any doc's.
I really want one but cant find solid info on the matter.
cheers, neil.
Johnny5hoods said:
Some years back, I had an E36 328i SE manual saloon. It was brilliant. Better, in some ways, than the 130i I have now. Way underrated and faster than people think.
I may be starting a bit of controversy here. But I actually think BMW deliberately lied about the 328i's 0-60 time, claiming it was slower than it really was! Think they said 7.3 0-62 and 7.1 0-60. Well ..... I know magazine drivers often get slightly faster times. But Autocar tested a heavier estate, and did it in 6.1 seconds! Than means the saloon/coupe would be at least 6.0 if not 5.9. That's some discrepancy. My theory is that BMW realised that if they admitted the 328i was as quick as it really was, the 5.4 second M3, selling for a much heftier price, would never have left the showroom. Weight had something to do with it. M3 IIRC weighed 1540kg, and 328i 1395. Later E46 328i/330i and E90 330i were also much heavier. End of an era.
I don't know if they lied about the times/power but it feels a hell of a lot quicker than 193hp. Might be to do with the fair amount of torque that it produces too, but I kept up with a friends 240hp turbo MX5 on a pull which made me quite happy. I may be starting a bit of controversy here. But I actually think BMW deliberately lied about the 328i's 0-60 time, claiming it was slower than it really was! Think they said 7.3 0-62 and 7.1 0-60. Well ..... I know magazine drivers often get slightly faster times. But Autocar tested a heavier estate, and did it in 6.1 seconds! Than means the saloon/coupe would be at least 6.0 if not 5.9. That's some discrepancy. My theory is that BMW realised that if they admitted the 328i was as quick as it really was, the 5.4 second M3, selling for a much heftier price, would never have left the showroom. Weight had something to do with it. M3 IIRC weighed 1540kg, and 328i 1395. Later E46 328i/330i and E90 330i were also much heavier. End of an era.
Does anybody know how to reprogramme the keyless entry? I've got a fob with a red and grey button but it doesn't seem to do anything apart from light up the little led.
Looks like a good'n OP.
Like others have said even shiny looking cars can have weak jacking points, especially if the jacking point cover pads go missing - just found that on one of mine. Check wheel alighnment/geo as this makes a huge difference to how they feel.
I recently bought my second in five years. Although mine is an "328 sport Individual" with a few Mtec/A C Schnitzer options from new I am going to try and avoid playing too much as its running really well - they are easy to ruin with mods. Am unsure about the GT spoiler on it but car was sold like that. I do really like the clean look so the jury is still out. Spoilers and boot badges were delete options and some 323s had Mtec sports options. Orange indicators were only on the early sports (Mk 1 1995/1996) but they are well coolio IMO. Often the Sport/M3 clears look too white to me and distract from the front double headlamps.
There is a great bunch of E36 owners on PH and I always enjoy reading about others adventures in ownership or their advice.
Like others have said even shiny looking cars can have weak jacking points, especially if the jacking point cover pads go missing - just found that on one of mine. Check wheel alighnment/geo as this makes a huge difference to how they feel.
I recently bought my second in five years. Although mine is an "328 sport Individual" with a few Mtec/A C Schnitzer options from new I am going to try and avoid playing too much as its running really well - they are easy to ruin with mods. Am unsure about the GT spoiler on it but car was sold like that. I do really like the clean look so the jury is still out. Spoilers and boot badges were delete options and some 323s had Mtec sports options. Orange indicators were only on the early sports (Mk 1 1995/1996) but they are well coolio IMO. Often the Sport/M3 clears look too white to me and distract from the front double headlamps.
There is a great bunch of E36 owners on PH and I always enjoy reading about others adventures in ownership or their advice.
Yadizzle1 said:
Rust is a fairly large worry, this one doesn't seem too bad exterior wise. There is minor bubbling on one arch the size of a 20P coin, a small amount starting to come through on the windscreen pillar and the bonnet is the worst. All should be sorted over the coming months. Almost a little afraid to get it in the air and have a proper look underneath as I might discover it's a complete rust bucket!
The more I drive it, the more I appreciate it for what it is, I would really like to get the car back to excellent condition and just enjoy it for a while. A lot of positive comments on the car even from strangers which is a massive change to the reactions I used to get driving the 100HP! I'm enjoying the weighty feel to all the controls, it's a world apart from modern cars with fly by wire throttles and electronically assisted steering.
Handling wise, it does need looking at, suspension seems fine but there is a clunk coming from the front right wheel which I believe is a knackered drop link. Looking forward to having that sorted and enjoying a bit of tight handling again!
Thanks! The advice is much appreciated. I've checked all arches and boot floor and behind the boot seal, all looks well apart from minor surface rust that I'm going to sort this weekend.
Terrified of removing sill covers but it's gotta be done really! Hopefully it's not as bad as an MX5 of a similar vintage.
Agreed, it.can.be a bit daunting, and they can be a money pit, but that type of condition would usually be showing elsewere on the car. For 20+ years odd they really are not that bad. If you are not in a hurry and its not a daily, jobs can be done ad-hoc. In terms of rust however, these seem to pit the metal quite allot, so.either sheet metal replacement is needed or filler after stripping the paint with a abrasive disks. Also the rust always goes further than you think, 20p in size you can double it most of the time.The more I drive it, the more I appreciate it for what it is, I would really like to get the car back to excellent condition and just enjoy it for a while. A lot of positive comments on the car even from strangers which is a massive change to the reactions I used to get driving the 100HP! I'm enjoying the weighty feel to all the controls, it's a world apart from modern cars with fly by wire throttles and electronically assisted steering.
Handling wise, it does need looking at, suspension seems fine but there is a clunk coming from the front right wheel which I believe is a knackered drop link. Looking forward to having that sorted and enjoying a bit of tight handling again!
Thanks! The advice is much appreciated. I've checked all arches and boot floor and behind the boot seal, all looks well apart from minor surface rust that I'm going to sort this weekend.
Terrified of removing sill covers but it's gotta be done really! Hopefully it's not as bad as an MX5 of a similar vintage.
Best mods for a road car, in my opinion is a M3/Vert lower cross brace, 3.15LSD and replacing as many bushes from the rear end as you can afford with OEM or Poly. Really thightens up the experience, assuming no knackered suspension parts lol.
When we rebuilt the rear end, I got hold of a complete rear end from a 328 from a scrapper and reconditioned all the parts, pressed new bearings, bushes, pretty much assembled the thing on the ground, so it was a case of off with the old and on with the new. Not going to lie though, just the differential rebuild (LSD unit 40% loco from the US, new bearings, seals, gasket, 3.23 crown + pinion + labour ) set us back a coop Grand once totted up. Can be done cheaper but im of the opinion of doing the job once, especially when im ragging it on the limit on track.
For the record, I drive a Grande Punto 1.3mjet as a daily, its cheap easy to live with and for the road use its perfect. Leaves funds for the fun car
and I dont care what looks I get. We get similar looks on track when we embarrass M3's, exige V6's, Caterhams, badly driven supercars, etc. with the 328 ;-)Anything you do to it reconditioning wise, other than drive it in the winter will be adding value imo, but the more mods you do other than the aforementioned will potentially reduce its value.
Edited by Humour on Tuesday 24th October 20:25
Humour said:
Agreed, it.can.be a bit daunting, and they can be a money pit, but that type of condition would usually be showing elsewere on the car. For 20+ years odd they really are not that bad. If you are not in a hurry and its not a daily, jobs can be done ad-hoc. In terms of rust however, these seem to pit the metal quite allot, so.either sheet metal replacement is needed or filler after stripping the paint with a abrasive disks. Also the rust always goes further than you think, 20p in size you can double it most of the time.
Best mods for a road car, in my opinion is a M3/Vert lower cross brace, 3.15LSD and replacing as many bushes from the rear end as you can afford with OEM or Poly. Really thightens up the experience, assuming no knackered suspension parts lol.
When we rebuilt the rear end, I got hold of a complete rear end from a 328 from a scrapper and reconditioned all the parts, pressed new bearings, bushes, pretty much assembled the thing on the ground, so it was a case of off with the old and on with the new. Not going to lie though, just the differential rebuild (LSD unit 40% loco from the US, new bearings, seals, gasket, 3.23 crown + pinion + labour ) set us back a coop Grand once totted up. Can be done cheaper but im of the opinion of doing the job once, especially when im ragging it on the limit on track.
For the record, I drive a Grande Punto 1.3mjet as a daily, its cheap easy to live with and for the road use its perfect. Leaves funds for the fun car and I dont care what looks I get. We get similar looks on track when we embarrass M3's, exige V6's, Caterhams, badly driven supercars, etc. with the 328 ;-)
Anything you do to it reconditioning wise, other than drive it in the winter will be adding value imo, but the more mods you do other than the aforementioned will potentially reduce its value.
Well, I took a few brave pills last night and removed the jacking point covers and had a little poke around with a screw driver. Only one is flaky, the rest are absolutely sound! Going to get hammerite and a coat of underseal on the car as soon as possible while it's still in decent nick! Best mods for a road car, in my opinion is a M3/Vert lower cross brace, 3.15LSD and replacing as many bushes from the rear end as you can afford with OEM or Poly. Really thightens up the experience, assuming no knackered suspension parts lol.
When we rebuilt the rear end, I got hold of a complete rear end from a 328 from a scrapper and reconditioned all the parts, pressed new bearings, bushes, pretty much assembled the thing on the ground, so it was a case of off with the old and on with the new. Not going to lie though, just the differential rebuild (LSD unit 40% loco from the US, new bearings, seals, gasket, 3.23 crown + pinion + labour ) set us back a coop Grand once totted up. Can be done cheaper but im of the opinion of doing the job once, especially when im ragging it on the limit on track.
For the record, I drive a Grande Punto 1.3mjet as a daily, its cheap easy to live with and for the road use its perfect. Leaves funds for the fun car
and I dont care what looks I get. We get similar looks on track when we embarrass M3's, exige V6's, Caterhams, badly driven supercars, etc. with the 328 ;-)Anything you do to it reconditioning wise, other than drive it in the winter will be adding value imo, but the more mods you do other than the aforementioned will potentially reduce its value.
Edited by Humour on Tuesday 24th October 20:25
Also had a go at fixing the traction control light, turns out the throttle actuator part of the T/C had a plug disconnected, easy fix thankfully! Managed to get the radio working properly too, all the wires behind it were twisted and taped. Works now, but it sounds terrible! The rear speakers have been taken out and the front ones are very weak in sound, so that's most likely going to be the first upgrade.
I bought the car as an interesting daily, still a uni student so can't justify keeping two cars because of space and costs. In an ideal world I would've kept the 100HP and used the 328 on the weekends as a sort of rolling restoration.
skylarking808 said:
Looks like a good'n OP.
Like others have said even shiny looking cars can have weak jacking points, especially if the jacking point cover pads go missing - just found that on one of mine. Check wheel alighnment/geo as this makes a huge difference to how they feel.
I recently bought my second in five years. Although mine is an "328 sport Individual" with a few Mtec/A C Schnitzer options from new I am going to try and avoid playing too much as its running really well - they are easy to ruin with mods. Am unsure about the GT spoiler on it but car was sold like that. I do really like the clean look so the jury is still out. Spoilers and boot badges were delete options and some 323s had Mtec sports options. Orange indicators were only on the early sports (Mk 1 1995/1996) but they are well coolio IMO. Often the Sport/M3 clears look too white to me and distract from the front double headlamps.
There is a great bunch of E36 owners on PH and I always enjoy reading about others adventures in ownership or their advice.
The color combo on yours looks mint! Mine sits very similar to yours, a bit higher in the front than the rear, would like to even it out but don't want to go down the route of coilovers. The more I think about it, the more I'm liking the idea of a completely original, excellent condition 328i Sport. Only thing is this one's done 161,000 miles now, so not sure it can ever be worth the amount of investment to get it to that point. Like others have said even shiny looking cars can have weak jacking points, especially if the jacking point cover pads go missing - just found that on one of mine. Check wheel alighnment/geo as this makes a huge difference to how they feel.
I recently bought my second in five years. Although mine is an "328 sport Individual" with a few Mtec/A C Schnitzer options from new I am going to try and avoid playing too much as its running really well - they are easy to ruin with mods. Am unsure about the GT spoiler on it but car was sold like that. I do really like the clean look so the jury is still out. Spoilers and boot badges were delete options and some 323s had Mtec sports options. Orange indicators were only on the early sports (Mk 1 1995/1996) but they are well coolio IMO. Often the Sport/M3 clears look too white to me and distract from the front double headlamps.
There is a great bunch of E36 owners on PH and I always enjoy reading about others adventures in ownership or their advice.
Alignment is next on the list, I need to sort the knocking noise on the front right corner, get a set of winter wheels fitted and then get it aligned.
The only other shock to the system is the fuel economy. I've spent a lot of money doing not a lot of miles since I picked it up on Saturday morning! It did the 180 miles back to Oxford on £25/30 worth of Petrol (which I was very impressed by), but the 20 mile round trip of my commute seems to cost me almost a tenner a day, just cruising. Do these cars have a limp home mode?
Humour said:
Best mods for a road car, in my opinion is a M3/Vert lower cross brace, 3.15LSD and replacing as many bushes from the rear end as you can afford with OEM or Poly. Really thightens up the experience, assuming no knackered suspension parts lol.
When we rebuilt the rear end, I got hold of a complete rear end from a 328 from a scrapper and reconditioned all the parts, pressed new bearings, bushes, pretty much assembled the thing on the ground, so it was a case of off with the old and on with the new. Not going to lie though, just the differential rebuild (LSD unit 40% loco from the US, new bearings, seals, gasket, 3.23 crown + pinion + labour ) set us back a coop Grand once totted up. Can be done cheaper but im of the opinion of doing the job once, especially when im ragging it on the limit on track.
For the record, I drive a Grande Punto 1.3mjet as a daily, its cheap easy to live with and for the road use its perfect. Leaves funds for the fun car and I dont care what looks I get. We get similar looks on track when we embarrass M3's, exige V6's, Caterhams, badly driven supercars, etc. with the 328 ;-)
Anything you do to it reconditioning wise, other than drive it in the winter will be adding value imo, but the more mods you do other than the aforementioned will potentially reduce its value.
Good advice - this is what I did for my e36 M3, allows you to clean and replace the subframe bits piece but piece in your own time and with great access then when you're ready take a day to swap the back end over.When we rebuilt the rear end, I got hold of a complete rear end from a 328 from a scrapper and reconditioned all the parts, pressed new bearings, bushes, pretty much assembled the thing on the ground, so it was a case of off with the old and on with the new. Not going to lie though, just the differential rebuild (LSD unit 40% loco from the US, new bearings, seals, gasket, 3.23 crown + pinion + labour ) set us back a coop Grand once totted up. Can be done cheaper but im of the opinion of doing the job once, especially when im ragging it on the limit on track.
For the record, I drive a Grande Punto 1.3mjet as a daily, its cheap easy to live with and for the road use its perfect. Leaves funds for the fun car
and I dont care what looks I get. We get similar looks on track when we embarrass M3's, exige V6's, Caterhams, badly driven supercars, etc. with the 328 ;-)Anything you do to it reconditioning wise, other than drive it in the winter will be adding value imo, but the more mods you do other than the aforementioned will potentially reduce its value.
I didn't even need to rebleed the back brakes, just unbolted them from the hubs and trailing arms.
Replacing the rear balljoints especially made a big difference, as did the RTABs. You can replace the 328 bushes with balljoints too which helps bring the rear end closer to M3 spec.
Wouldn't bother doing the diff bushing however though, barely any wear in 130,000 miles.
Good to see another 328i on here, this is my Sport (Did you get yours from another Pher?)
Leaving mine totally standard, the ride height bothers me a lot but it's got almost new Bilstein shocks on the front supplied by BMW as per the original sport so they are staying. Also had a load of paintwork done getting rid of rust, justa couple of little bits and a wheel refurb to do.
Leaving mine totally standard, the ride height bothers me a lot but it's got almost new Bilstein shocks on the front supplied by BMW as per the original sport so they are staying. Also had a load of paintwork done getting rid of rust, justa couple of little bits and a wheel refurb to do.
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