Do you use a fountain pen?
Discussion
I had a 2 minute try out of these at a pen show last october, mainly testing the KWZ ink in the pen, but it was impressive.
Would really like to hear more about how it works and what you paid, presumably under £15 so you didnt have to pay VAT and Royal Mail fees? Havent used Rakuten - are they as easy as Amazon?
Would really like to hear more about how it works and what you paid, presumably under £15 so you didnt have to pay VAT and Royal Mail fees? Havent used Rakuten - are they as easy as Amazon?
I'm in NZ, so no issues with your rather draconian VAT thresholds! (we have a much higher limit here, closer to 200 pounds). My Prera worked out at about NZ$46, or 23-ish pounds, including shipping. Which is coincidentally almost exactly what a Safari costs here, but the Prera comes with a converter (or clear ones do at least).
I've used Rakuten a number of times for various things, and had no issues with any of the sellers. It's a bit of an odd setup in that they don't calculate the shipping when you order: you submit your order and the shop emails you back a couple of days later with the shipping cost, which you then have to accept.
Still early days with the pen, but first impressions are that it's nice and smooth (not a hint of scratchiness), and moderately wet. It's pretty light weight, but doesn't feel at all cheap - the plastic has a nice feel to it.
I've used Rakuten a number of times for various things, and had no issues with any of the sellers. It's a bit of an odd setup in that they don't calculate the shipping when you order: you submit your order and the shop emails you back a couple of days later with the shipping cost, which you then have to accept.
Still early days with the pen, but first impressions are that it's nice and smooth (not a hint of scratchiness), and moderately wet. It's pretty light weight, but doesn't feel at all cheap - the plastic has a nice feel to it.
I've been working on the Parker Lady that came in my parts bag. If you keep it posted it's not too small at all. It is more slender than a normal pen, but if you compare the diameter of the section at the place where you grip it, it's not much narrower at that point than a Parker 45 or 51.
I managed to glue the nib hood split together using EMA Plastic Weld, though not as satisfactorily as when I glued the cap of my 17 Super Duofold. It was an open crack right on the tip of the hood, so quite difficult to glue it and hold it closed. The nib was also bent up and missing a ball. I can't seem to make a satisfactory stub out of this like I did with the Waterman. I think maybe because it's a cylindrical nib. This little pen will have to go back in the parts drawer for now.
Here it is with a Parker 45 I bought recently. The camera has completely failed to capture the rather nice turquoise colour and decided that it should be plain and boring blue instead!
DSC01285 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
The best advice I can give with the EMA is to brush it on, then hold the crack closed immediately after brushing it. You don't need to hold it for long as a light brush seems to dry in about 2 seconds. I ended up brushing it both inside and outside and I can confirm it isn't difficult to polish out any marks caused by brushing on top.
I managed to glue the nib hood split together using EMA Plastic Weld, though not as satisfactorily as when I glued the cap of my 17 Super Duofold. It was an open crack right on the tip of the hood, so quite difficult to glue it and hold it closed. The nib was also bent up and missing a ball. I can't seem to make a satisfactory stub out of this like I did with the Waterman. I think maybe because it's a cylindrical nib. This little pen will have to go back in the parts drawer for now.
Here it is with a Parker 45 I bought recently. The camera has completely failed to capture the rather nice turquoise colour and decided that it should be plain and boring blue instead!
DSC01285 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrThe best advice I can give with the EMA is to brush it on, then hold the crack closed immediately after brushing it. You don't need to hold it for long as a light brush seems to dry in about 2 seconds. I ended up brushing it both inside and outside and I can confirm it isn't difficult to polish out any marks caused by brushing on top.
Another cheapo pen. Arany 320. Arany is the Hungarian word for gold. This one needed the nib straightened and the seal on the piston replaced. I decided to go with o rings and silicone grease rather than reshaping another seal out of cork. The nib was in a bit of a state as you can see below. There is a bit of tipping material on the nib. I managed to straighten it out and it writes smoothly and is nice and flexible too.
I last used it a couple of weeks ago and it was working well, however it's developed a leak since then. I'll need to do a bit of investigating.
DSC01126 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
s-l1600 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
DSC01296 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
DSC01288 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
I last used it a couple of weeks ago and it was working well, however it's developed a leak since then. I'll need to do a bit of investigating.
DSC01126 by 1891CxelA, on Flickrs-l1600 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrDSC01296 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrDSC01288 by 1891CxelA, on Flickruncinqsix said:
I'm in NZ, so no issues with your rather draconian VAT thresholds! (we have a much higher limit here, closer to 200 pounds). My Prera worked out at about NZ$46, or 23-ish pounds, including shipping. Which is coincidentally almost exactly what a Safari costs here, but the Prera comes with a converter (or clear ones do at least).
I've used Rakuten a number of times for various things, and had no issues with any of the sellers. It's a bit of an odd setup in that they don't calculate the shipping when you order: you submit your order and the shop emails you back a couple of days later with the shipping cost, which you then have to accept.
Still early days with the pen, but first impressions are that it's nice and smooth (not a hint of scratchiness), and moderately wet. It's pretty light weight, but doesn't feel at all cheap - the plastic has a nice feel to it.
Thank you.I've used Rakuten a number of times for various things, and had no issues with any of the sellers. It's a bit of an odd setup in that they don't calculate the shipping when you order: you submit your order and the shop emails you back a couple of days later with the shipping cost, which you then have to accept.
Still early days with the pen, but first impressions are that it's nice and smooth (not a hint of scratchiness), and moderately wet. It's pretty light weight, but doesn't feel at all cheap - the plastic has a nice feel to it.
The price in the UK is about the same, £23 which could therefore attract VAT and the Royal Mail handling fee, £10 I think making the total price approaching £40. By contrast the Lamy Safari is around £12, the Vista, which feels beeter made and a similar look to the Pilot is around £15.
Japanese nibs are always good, big regret about selling a Cross Verve which had a broad Namiki nib
AlexC1981 said:
I've been working on the Parker Lady that came in my parts bag. If you keep it posted it's not too small at all. It is more slender than a normal pen, but if you compare the diameter of the section at the place where you grip it, it's not much narrower at that point than a Parker 45 or 51.
I managed to glue the nib hood split together using EMA Plastic Weld, though not as satisfactorily as when I glued the cap of my 17 Super Duofold. It was an open crack right on the tip of the hood, so quite difficult to glue it and hold it closed. The nib was also bent up and missing a ball. I can't seem to make a satisfactory stub out of this like I did with the Waterman. I think maybe because it's a cylindrical nib. This little pen will have to go back in the parts drawer for now.
Here it is with a Parker 45 I bought recently. The camera has completely failed to capture the rather nice turquoise colour and decided that it should be plain and boring blue instead!
DSC01285 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
The best advice I can give with the EMA is to brush it on, then hold the crack closed immediately after brushing it. You don't need to hold it for long as a light brush seems to dry in about 2 seconds. I ended up brushing it both inside and outside and I can confirm it isn't difficult to polish out any marks caused by brushing on top.
Useful to know about the EMA, especially that any residue can be buffed out, thank you.I managed to glue the nib hood split together using EMA Plastic Weld, though not as satisfactorily as when I glued the cap of my 17 Super Duofold. It was an open crack right on the tip of the hood, so quite difficult to glue it and hold it closed. The nib was also bent up and missing a ball. I can't seem to make a satisfactory stub out of this like I did with the Waterman. I think maybe because it's a cylindrical nib. This little pen will have to go back in the parts drawer for now.
Here it is with a Parker 45 I bought recently. The camera has completely failed to capture the rather nice turquoise colour and decided that it should be plain and boring blue instead!
DSC01285 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrThe best advice I can give with the EMA is to brush it on, then hold the crack closed immediately after brushing it. You don't need to hold it for long as a light brush seems to dry in about 2 seconds. I ended up brushing it both inside and outside and I can confirm it isn't difficult to polish out any marks caused by brushing on top.
The Parker Lady looks to have an oblique nib, or is it just the camera angle?
AlexC1981 said:
Another cheapo pen. Arany 320. Arany is the Hungarian word for gold. This one needed the nib straightened and the seal on the piston replaced. I decided to go with o rings and silicone grease rather than reshaping another seal out of cork. The nib was in a bit of a state as you can see below. There is a bit of tipping material on the nib. I managed to straighten it out and it writes smoothly and is nice and flexible too.
I last used it a couple of weeks ago and it was working well, however it's developed a leak since then. I'll need to do a bit of investigating.
DSC01126 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
s-l1600 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
DSC01296 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
DSC01288 by 1891CxelA, on Flickr
You have done a great job on the nib, looks like new.I last used it a couple of weeks ago and it was working well, however it's developed a leak since then. I'll need to do a bit of investigating.
DSC01126 by 1891CxelA, on Flickrs-l1600 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrDSC01296 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrDSC01288 by 1891CxelA, on FlickrI presume the leak is the ink getting past the O ring, I know that some people have tried two rings but it could be that the barrel is no longer circular, a cork replacement might work, perhaps try two seals first of all?
Good luck.
AlexC1981 said:
Cheers Rob. The Lady has a straight stub. I think the Arany is leaking between the nib/feed/collar/section. If I hold the section between my lips with the nib in my gob I can't blow any air through, which suggests the leak must be closer to the nib.
Parker put some amazing nibs in this most modest of pens, I had one with a double broad nib and it was a pleasure to use, you would think that they would just have fitted Fine or Mediums.Prohibiting said:
(my winning bid was £276 for a black M1000 with a medium nib) Very happy!
Is one of the cases on the shopping list?
http://www.pelikanpens.co.uk/acatalog/Pelikan_Leat...
Prohibiting said:
Pilot Syo-Ro had a tint of too much green which I didn't like.
Ku-jaku would probably have been closer to what you're looking for. I'm liking my yama-dori
I have a holiday in Japan planned for next year, so will be looking out for other interesting Sailor inks then... uncinqsix said:
Ku-jaku would probably have been closer to what you're looking for.
I'm liking my yama-dori I have a holiday in Japan planned for next year, so will be looking out for other interesting Sailor inks then...
I ordered a sample of Ku-Jaku but for some reason it never came in the post together with my other 2 samples- maybe the seller didn't have any in stock.I'm liking my yama-dori
I have a holiday in Japan planned for next year, so will be looking out for other interesting Sailor inks then... I loved the colour, shading and sheen of Yama-dori but when used on high quality paper it takes ages to dry fully (even when it appears dry) it can smudge so no good for a lefty. For example, on Tomoe River paper, even after THREE/FOUR days, if you press your finger on what you've wrote, it can smudge slightly.
My M1000 turned up today...
The seller advertised it with a medium nib and it has EF stamped on it (extra-fine)... very frustrating. You couldn't see clearly in the picture on eBay what was stamped on it.
I'm wondering whether the seller did this on purpose as he won't accept a refund so now I'm having to open a case through eBay which will take a few weeks no doubt. Grrrrrr....
The seller advertised it with a medium nib and it has EF stamped on it (extra-fine)... very frustrating. You couldn't see clearly in the picture on eBay what was stamped on it.
I'm wondering whether the seller did this on purpose as he won't accept a refund so now I'm having to open a case through eBay which will take a few weeks no doubt. Grrrrrr....
Prohibiting said:
My M1000 turned up today...
The seller advertised it with a medium nib and it has EF stamped on it (extra-fine)... very frustrating. You couldn't see clearly in the picture on eBay what was stamped on it.
I'm wondering whether the seller did this on purpose as he won't accept a refund so now I'm having to open a case through eBay which will take a few weeks no doubt. Grrrrrr....
Thats annoying.The seller advertised it with a medium nib and it has EF stamped on it (extra-fine)... very frustrating. You couldn't see clearly in the picture on eBay what was stamped on it.
I'm wondering whether the seller did this on purpose as he won't accept a refund so now I'm having to open a case through eBay which will take a few weeks no doubt. Grrrrrr....
Just had a look to see how much a new nib unit would be, £250 so no options there.
The stupid thing is that he might have obtained a higher price by describing the pen properly, an extra fine is much less common than a Medium.
Good luck with the Ebay case, sounds clearly in your favour.
I have found that Paypal, assuming that you paid that way, gets a resolution quicker than eBay.
ClockworkCupcake said:
In that case I wonder whether it is worth putting it straight up for sale for a profit?
Just looked on eBay and there are no used M1000s to get a price.That may be an option for Prohibiting, out of principle I ask for my money back if something has been wrongly described, a good seller will always give a refund for a genuine mistake
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