Outrigger Mountings

[Nickl911]

Hi, I've just acquired a barn find 350i. This is my retirement project, and might be a full or partial restoration depending on cost.

I do have a number of questions, and although I have read a whole lot of PH threads I can't find any definitive answer yet.

Question 1, what should be the proper bolt through components be connecting the body to the outrigger plates. This is an '85 350i with the removable sills and almost vertical support plates - two either side. I have taken off the bolts which have 2 penny washers sandwiching a thick rubber washer between the bolt head and the plate and between the GRP body inside and the nut. If the body support is just the clamping friction between body and plate rubber padding sandwiched in between, surely the thick rubber washers do not add to this mechanism? I think I have seen pictures somewhere of plain square metal plates replacing the penny washer and rubber washer on the outside. Am I missing stand-off collars or something like that?

As expected the long outrigger tube has rusted to pieces. There is a previous sorry looking repair to the drivers side but I am attempting to do both sides while I am at it.

I'd appreciate any knowledge you guys can impart.

2nd question in a separate post coming next.

[BIG DUNC]

I don't know about the 350 I, but the arrangement on the Griff is just as you describe. There are bolts with large washers going through the floor only triangular plates in the chassis.

My old 350i only had the drivers outrigger repaired as at the time this repair took place the passengers side was OK, which I thought was unusual as normally the passenger side fails first. Not the same car is it?

Edited to add, just seen that you have added it to the wedge list. Mine was dark blue, but it was a FHC not a convertible.

Edited by BIG DUNC on Monday 19th February 10:31

[Nickl911]

Hmmm Seems to have 'lost' my reply to this. I wonder where it went. Obviously another senior moment!

I have looked at the various outrigger posts but the non-350i non tasmin ones seem to have ditched the angled upright support plates for horizontal support plates and I understand how that would work well.

Perhaps I should switch from restoring the original plates to fabricating horizontal plates in the corners and middle of the outrigger?

That said, the seat belt mounting points would still be needing vertical plates, so maybe continue as I am.

Just seems too much give with so much rubber?

[KKson]

Here's a picture of Glens SEAC chassis which has recently been blasted. Plates on this are horizontal.



Here's a view of a 350i chassis with the plates vertical:

[adam quantrill]

I don't think the outriggers add much to supporting the tub, my first 350i when pulled apart had lumps of rust under the sill covers, no tubes at all, and it drove fine.

I think the outriggers are more important when considering side impact protection.

When replacing mine next, and I expect to have to do so on the 400SX one day, I shall be using stainless. That way, they will be fit and forget.

[mrzigazaga]

And dont forget that the outriggers are part of what we sit on....the floor in a wedge is not very thick...

[mk1fan]

And yet people think it is stronger than Stainless Steel bolts when you suggest using them to mount the seats

[Engineer1949]

have a look through this picture file it accompanied my 2 build threads on my now orange wedge might give you some helpfull insight into the job plus you might like to take on board some of my mods the pics clearly show the outrigger uprights with rubber between body and upright i used big galvanised spuare washers rather than piddly penny washers get a much better bite plus if you go stainless bolts use at leasr A4 grade good luck with the rebuild.

/www.flickr.com/photos/93689925@N07/10251733566/in/album-72157633142593674/


john

[Nickl911]

Thanks for the replies..

And to Engineer 1949, I am so impressed with the level of detail of your build, but I can't see me getting to those dizzy heights, although I am inspired to do more better.

I do think that replacing those tiny thin penny washers with a big chunk of steel is the way to go.

I will be back for more advice before too long I am sure of that.

Cheers Nick

[Nickl911]

And to KKson, I am now confused because the 'upright' plates on my chassis are not the same size as the ones shown in your pic, neither are they in exactly the same place. The front plates seem longer (500mm) and the rears (400mm) do not extend past the end cross tube but are cut short, very close to the bolt holes.

Anyone got any official dimensions? The Steve Heath bible is short of that info.

Thanks NIck

[mk1fan]

In fairness the chassis may have already been chopped about. If your existing locations work on your car then why not stick with 'em?

[chris59]

Nickl911 said:

And to KKson, I am now confused because the 'upright' plates on my chassis are not the same size as the ones shown in your pic, neither are they in exactly the same place. The front plates seem longer (500mm) and the rears (400mm) do not extend past the end cross tube but are cut short, very close to the bolt holes.

Anyone got any official dimensions? The Steve Heath bible is short of that info.

Thanks NIck

The plates on my 350I chassis are exactly as you describe yours, Nick.

I just replace the outriggers with identical tubes, but in stainless steel.

[Legarocorsa]

THIS IS WHAT I HAD TO DO AS A SEAT MOUNTREQUIREMENT FOR SOUTH AUSTRALIAN REGISTRATION WITH ENGINEERS REPORT

[sabre]

The Australian supports are a good idea ;-) Apart from suspension I dont see any issue using stainless bolts. Lets face it, if a body to chassis bolt or seat bolt broke in an accident it would be last of your worries.