How long till the £20k Evora?
Discussion
Evoras said:
How do we think the 4xx wil do in the next few years. What makes these desirable to a buyer? Looks like they are firm at £47500 being the cheapest one.
There's a manual 400 up for £45,990 that's been unsold for months. And an IPS for £44,950.SFTWend said:
Hofmanns let their low miles 400 go for less than that at an online auction. I was surprised to see the guide was only £34 to 38k, although it went for more than upper estimate.
From memory it went for between £41-42k, which becomes £43-44k once you add the 5% buyer's premium. The car was sold as a trade sale with no prep - it had scuffed wheels and a cracked A-pillar trim.I'm watching the bottom end of the market, the NA cars. They have bottomed out and are almost steady at the 20-30K range. S's are currently holding in the range of maybe 30-40K with high variability between poorly specced ones and good SR spec late examples. Seems logical that early 400s would start turning up at 40-45K? They've probably still got a way to fall but will never go as low as the S's have, so maybe bottom of the market for them is 35k?
Ryvita said:
Also the red car mentioned earlier (AU10BHN) has had a price drop from £24,500 to £24,000. This car was up as a private sale back in February at £21K, and sold very quickly, then went back on sale initally priced at £26,492 and with slowly dropping price ever since.
OK, either I'm going mad or someone has put back up the price of the red car. It's now showing as £25K on Facebook, Gumtree and Pistonheads, but still £24500 on eBay.Ryvita said:
OK, either I'm going mad or someone has put back up the price of the red car. It's now showing as £25K on Facebook, Gumtree and Pistonheads, but still £24500 on eBay.
It definitely was £24,000 on Autotrader. I was due to go and see it, but there seemed a few issues to fix. I'm due to see the Blue one, one up from that on Autotrader now.
jamesbilluk said:
It definitely was £24,000 on Autotrader. I was due to go and see it, but there seemed a few issues to fix.
I'm due to see the Blue one, one up from that on Autotrader now.
Thank you, that puts my mind at rest. The blue car does look pretty good, love the colour. Remember to check if it's got long or short gear ratios, ad doesn't say and vendor likely won't have a clue! I'm due to see the Blue one, one up from that on Autotrader now.
FYI and because this will be useful for me in future:
- A standard ratio box is 205g/Km and a close ratio box is 215g/Km CO2 emissions.
- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
Ryvita said:
I'm watching the bottom end of the market, the NA cars. They have bottomed out and are almost steady at the 20-30K range. S's are currently holding in the range of maybe 30-40K with high variability between poorly specced ones and good SR spec late examples. Seems logical that early 400s would start turning up at 40-45K? They've probably still got a way to fall but will never go as low as the S's have, so maybe bottom of the market for them is 35k?
I doubt any Evora has bottomed out yet, especially with Covid and Brexit implications on the economy. Asking prices might be flat but nothing much is selling.I predict a nice NA car will bottom at more like £15k, add £5k for an S and 400s well under £30k. Just my view and happy to take bets!
Ryvita said:
- A standard ratio box is 205g/Km and a close ratio box is 215g/Km CO2 emissions.
- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
This deserves to be a sticky, if only such a thing were possible.- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
Also, been meaning to get this out there: here is the data from my watch on NA Evoras since February. This is raw stuff, uneditted and a bit messy, but if anyone wants to get a feel for market position, maybe have some ammo for haggling, this is what I've seen since February. A total of 50 entries though note that some cars have been on sale more than once in this time.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sHUS-NLnIYRpmUsbh...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sHUS-NLnIYRpmUsbh...
plenty said:
Ryvita said:
- A standard ratio box is 205g/Km and a close ratio box is 215g/Km CO2 emissions.
- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
This deserves to be a sticky, if only such a thing were possible.- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
More common is the passenger air bag cover lifting in sunlight?
Ryvita said:
Thank you, that puts my mind at rest. The blue car does look pretty good, love the colour. Remember to check if it's got long or short gear ratios, ad doesn't say and vendor likely won't have a clue!
FYI and because this will be useful for me in future:
- A standard ratio box is 205g/Km and a close ratio box is 215g/Km CO2 emissions.
- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
Thank you for that FYI and because this will be useful for me in future:
- A standard ratio box is 205g/Km and a close ratio box is 215g/Km CO2 emissions.
- There is a plate/sticker in the engine bay that tells you which GB is fitted.
- 6th gear standard ratios 1850rpm - 70mph. 6th gear close ratios 2500rpm - 70mph. No difference in first or second gear.
- Early CR boxes have a (very rare) potential weakness in the top 4 gears. Later CR boxes, after gearbox serial #1564, have an updated gearset and don't have this issue, neither do the standard ratio boxes.
Very useful, I shall have a look. Really like it to, don't think I've seen one in this blue before. They've been sending me photos I've requested over WhatsApp, it looks clean inside, with not much seat wear, and no marks on the sill. Headlight sidelight LEDs all seem to work, and headlight lacquer looks ok from what I can see.
and the airbag cover is flush as well!
On the lotus forums, someone said it looks like it may have the Janspeed sports exhaust system with the blue tips.
Looking forward to the viewing tomorrow!
jamesbilluk said:
Thank you for that Very useful, I shall have a look.
Really like it to, don't think I've seen one in this blue before. They've been sending me photos I've requested over WhatsApp, it looks clean inside, with not much seat wear, and no marks on the sill. Headlight sidelight LEDs all seem to work, and headlight lacquer looks ok from what I can see.
and the airbag cover is flush as well!
On the lotus forums, someone said it looks like it may have the Janspeed sports exhaust system with the blue tips.
Looking forward to the viewing tomorrow!
Check Very useful, I shall have a look. Really like it to, don't think I've seen one in this blue before. They've been sending me photos I've requested over WhatsApp, it looks clean inside, with not much seat wear, and no marks on the sill. Headlight sidelight LEDs all seem to work, and headlight lacquer looks ok from what I can see.
and the airbag cover is flush as well!
On the lotus forums, someone said it looks like it may have the Janspeed sports exhaust system with the blue tips.
Looking forward to the viewing tomorrow!
A pillar trims for cracks
suspension for knocking (they eat ARB bushes)
headlight lacquer - you know about
mudflaps are secure (Lotus use mild steel brackets, you can now buy stainless ones)
Sparkplug change on schedule circa £50k miles
The corrugated aluminum chimney at the back of the engine bay (adjacent to the bulkhead) often falls apart
check aircon works - there have been issues with the aircon clutch and compressor
check tyre pressure monitoring works, the car is at an age where the batteries in the valves fail
The drive train will be noisy - thats normal, especially noticeable in neutral, low gears and at low speeds
blueg33 said:
Check
A pillar trims for cracks
suspension for knocking (they eat ARB bushes)
headlight lacquer - you know about
mudflaps are secure (Lotus use mild steel brackets, you can now buy stainless ones)
Sparkplug change on schedule circa £50k miles
The corrugated aluminum chimney at the back of the engine bay (adjacent to the bulkhead) often falls apart
check aircon works - there have been issues with the aircon clutch and compressor
check tyre pressure monitoring works, the car is at an age where the batteries in the valves fail
The drive train will be noisy - thats normal, especially noticeable in neutral, low gears and at low speeds
Thank you for that A pillar trims for cracks
suspension for knocking (they eat ARB bushes)
headlight lacquer - you know about
mudflaps are secure (Lotus use mild steel brackets, you can now buy stainless ones)
Sparkplug change on schedule circa £50k miles
The corrugated aluminum chimney at the back of the engine bay (adjacent to the bulkhead) often falls apart
check aircon works - there have been issues with the aircon clutch and compressor
check tyre pressure monitoring works, the car is at an age where the batteries in the valves fail
The drive train will be noisy - thats normal, especially noticeable in neutral, low gears and at low speeds
I'll pop all these very helpful points, and gearbox info into my phone notes to have a check on the day .
As this thread is about the low end of the Evora market, I thought it would be useful to share some info I've been gathering on things to check/watch out for. I've decided (for now) to keep my Elise S1, but I'm always looking.......in the meantime hopefully this will be useful for others as a reference point when searching.
If anyone wants to add anything to it, just shout, it isn't meant to cover all of the potential weak points, but the main ones I've come across or been told about...
Mechanical / Electrical
• Clutch - longevity varies, usually requires changing between 30 - 50k miles, but can vary with driving style, usage, and pot luck. £2.5k - £3.5k for replacement. Unsure if any early warning signs can be detected.
• Gear linkage cables - upgraded from MY2012 on. Early cars had issues with the original cables.?
• Pulleys/tensioner - Check pulleys in engine bay, listen for rumbling or squeaking sound on right side of engine, bearings get dry in the tensioner - if the belt is moving side to side when idling it’s a sign also. New tensioner is £200 for the part plus lots of labour.
• IPS transmission fluid – very important to ensure the correct Toyota fluid has been used – it’s expensive. Other fluid can cause shifting issues.
• IPS TCU (Transmission Control Unit) – check it has been upgraded to the latest software.
• Starter motor – known to fail. Check if replaced at all.
• Catalytic convertors – the 2 cats near the manifold (“mani-cats”) can get too hot and lead to a MIL warning light.
• Headlight washer motors - known to fail.
• TPMS valves – batteries get low with age, also when tyres are changed, they need to be released into the wheel before the tyre is removed.
• Aluminium covered ducting /chimney – from engine to vent at rear of roof – ally covering comes off with age.
• Door electrics – Check the door handles work properly - they can fail but are quite cheap. Window regulators can also fail – check the windows drop a little when opening the door. Microswitches in the door lock fail. Central locking failures. Some of these parts are on back order….
• Air con – check it blows cold. A/C compressor is a common failure and is expensive - £2k part from Lotus, can be bought cheaper.
• Sport button – check it works, i.e. activates Sport mode with a single press (shows under rev counter when on).
Suspension
• Drop links & ARB bushes – listen for knocking when driving. Known to wear quickly but are cheap to replace. Fit poly ARB bushes for longer life.
• Wishbones - bushes in wishbones can be replaced, but the ball joints cannot – requires a whole new wishbone.
Exterior Bodywork / Trim
• Headlights - lacquer peel. Can be re-lacquered (DIY or dealer) or fitted with UV resistant PPF
• LED sidelights – within the headlight unit. The LEDs can fail, believe it can be fixed by repairing the board rather than a full headlight replacement.
• Trim cracking - A-pillar and ‘sail’ panel (between roof and rear window) – check for cracks as this is common. Great replacement guide here: https://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/topic/67111-...
Interior & ICE
• Seats - wear to leather on pre-MY2012 cars, especially on side bolsters.
• Dashboard - Passenger airbag cover lifts at edges with exposure to heat/UV - whole dash needs to be removed to replace the clips. Can be prevented by covering windscreen when parked in the sun (not sure if you can just cover the airbag cover).
• Instrument binnacle leather - panel in front of the stitched one can lift
• Alpine head unit – ‘Blackbird’ mobile satnav unit can fail, leading to sat nav no longer working. Best to change the whole thing for a Pioneer / Carplay unit as it’s terrible anyway!
• Door pull covers – can work loose.
Other
• Door seals – check footwells for damp. Window/waist seals, and door shut seals can cause leaks into footwells and also cause failure of the window regulators/motors. Uprated seals fitted from MY2012.
• Boot seal – check boot carpet for signs of damp/leaks. Carpet is joined to rubber seal causing leaks, also gap in seal at top. Poss fix to turn it round to gap is at bottom?
• Geo/Alignment – check when it was last done, it makes a huge difference to handling
If anyone wants to add anything to it, just shout, it isn't meant to cover all of the potential weak points, but the main ones I've come across or been told about...
Mechanical / Electrical
• Clutch - longevity varies, usually requires changing between 30 - 50k miles, but can vary with driving style, usage, and pot luck. £2.5k - £3.5k for replacement. Unsure if any early warning signs can be detected.
• Gear linkage cables - upgraded from MY2012 on. Early cars had issues with the original cables.?
• Pulleys/tensioner - Check pulleys in engine bay, listen for rumbling or squeaking sound on right side of engine, bearings get dry in the tensioner - if the belt is moving side to side when idling it’s a sign also. New tensioner is £200 for the part plus lots of labour.
• IPS transmission fluid – very important to ensure the correct Toyota fluid has been used – it’s expensive. Other fluid can cause shifting issues.
• IPS TCU (Transmission Control Unit) – check it has been upgraded to the latest software.
• Starter motor – known to fail. Check if replaced at all.
• Catalytic convertors – the 2 cats near the manifold (“mani-cats”) can get too hot and lead to a MIL warning light.
• Headlight washer motors - known to fail.
• TPMS valves – batteries get low with age, also when tyres are changed, they need to be released into the wheel before the tyre is removed.
• Aluminium covered ducting /chimney – from engine to vent at rear of roof – ally covering comes off with age.
• Door electrics – Check the door handles work properly - they can fail but are quite cheap. Window regulators can also fail – check the windows drop a little when opening the door. Microswitches in the door lock fail. Central locking failures. Some of these parts are on back order….
• Air con – check it blows cold. A/C compressor is a common failure and is expensive - £2k part from Lotus, can be bought cheaper.
• Sport button – check it works, i.e. activates Sport mode with a single press (shows under rev counter when on).
Suspension
• Drop links & ARB bushes – listen for knocking when driving. Known to wear quickly but are cheap to replace. Fit poly ARB bushes for longer life.
• Wishbones - bushes in wishbones can be replaced, but the ball joints cannot – requires a whole new wishbone.
Exterior Bodywork / Trim
• Headlights - lacquer peel. Can be re-lacquered (DIY or dealer) or fitted with UV resistant PPF
• LED sidelights – within the headlight unit. The LEDs can fail, believe it can be fixed by repairing the board rather than a full headlight replacement.
- High level brake light - check all LEDs are working
• Trim cracking - A-pillar and ‘sail’ panel (between roof and rear window) – check for cracks as this is common. Great replacement guide here: https://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/forum/topic/67111-...
Interior & ICE
• Seats - wear to leather on pre-MY2012 cars, especially on side bolsters.
• Dashboard - Passenger airbag cover lifts at edges with exposure to heat/UV - whole dash needs to be removed to replace the clips. Can be prevented by covering windscreen when parked in the sun (not sure if you can just cover the airbag cover).
• Instrument binnacle leather - panel in front of the stitched one can lift
• Alpine head unit – ‘Blackbird’ mobile satnav unit can fail, leading to sat nav no longer working. Best to change the whole thing for a Pioneer / Carplay unit as it’s terrible anyway!
• Door pull covers – can work loose.
- Reversing camera - check it works as they can fail
Other
• Door seals – check footwells for damp. Window/waist seals, and door shut seals can cause leaks into footwells and also cause failure of the window regulators/motors. Uprated seals fitted from MY2012.
• Boot seal – check boot carpet for signs of damp/leaks. Carpet is joined to rubber seal causing leaks, also gap in seal at top. Poss fix to turn it round to gap is at bottom?
• Geo/Alignment – check when it was last done, it makes a huge difference to handling
Edited by daveb99 on Friday 18th December 08:04
saaby93 said:
rhdv8 said:
Great list, might be worth adding the reversing camera can fail if fitted and check all the led’s in the 3rd brake light in the rear spoiler.
Is the list longer of parts that are ok?
i do hope the Geely era fixes the 'easy' quality issues.
saaby93 said:
rhdv8 said:
Great list, might be worth adding the reversing camera can fail if fitted and check all the led’s in the 3rd brake light in the rear spoiler.
Is the list longer of parts that are ok?Plus most things on the list are minor and most cars only have one of two things from the list. Eg my first one had no A pillar issues but needed a door lock, my second one door locks fine A pillars less so
Gassing Station | Evora | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff