Pressure bleed kit for brakes...
Discussion
Many ABS systems require pressure, even more with ESP.
I use a gunsons powered off a spare tyre, works ok for occasional use, check what pressure your brakes need to be bled @.
Oh and be careful using the pump the pedal method , if the master cylinder is worn you can damage the seals, place a brick or something under the pedal to restrict the travel.
I use a gunsons powered off a spare tyre, works ok for occasional use, check what pressure your brakes need to be bled @.
Oh and be careful using the pump the pedal method , if the master cylinder is worn you can damage the seals, place a brick or something under the pedal to restrict the travel.
Edited by PositronicRay on Friday 14th July 17:23
PositronicRay said:
Many ABS systems require pressure, even more with ESP.
I use a gunsons powered off a spare tyre, works ok for occasional use, check what pressure your brakes need to be bled @.
Oh and be careful using the pump the pedal method , if the master cylinder is worn you can damage the seals, place a brick or something under the pedal to restrict the travel.
Good shout on checking pressure for bleeding, cheers.I use a gunsons powered off a spare tyre, works ok for occasional use, check what pressure your brakes need to be bled @.
Oh and be careful using the pump the pedal method , if the master cylinder is worn you can damage the seals, place a brick or something under the pedal to restrict the travel.
Edited by PositronicRay on Friday 14th July 17:23
IKWYM about the pedal/MC issue, it's surprising how many people aren't aware and get caught out by that.
Long story short, I've had a lot of people work om y brakes over the years and let me down. I'm hoping to upgrade my fronts in the next few months (e36 M3 to AP 4 pots and floaters) as well as putting new calipers on the rear and possiby braided rear lines too. I'm a bit fussy about doing it correctly and want to learn to be 100% self sufficient in keeping my brakes running right so this seems the best way.
All of the pressure ones are great until it goes wrong. Either the seal isn't straight, or the cap is slightly wrong .... and then you have brake fluid everywhere, and about 30 seconds to get it off the paint before it destroys the finish.
There are really good vacuum ones that come with a clamp on reservoir, never had a problem with these.
There are really good vacuum ones that come with a clamp on reservoir, never had a problem with these.
rxe said:
All of the pressure ones are great until it goes wrong. Either the seal isn't straight, or the cap is slightly wrong .... and then you have brake fluid everywhere, and about 30 seconds to get it off the paint before it destroys the finish.
There are really good vacuum ones that come with a clamp on reservoir, never had a problem with these.
Hate to be a pain, but if you have chance could you point me to a link or pic of the kind of thing you mean please? There are really good vacuum ones that come with a clamp on reservoir, never had a problem with these.
I know I'm going to buy the kit do do this somehow but want to make sure I go for the best solution for me. I had the car resprayed a couple of years ago and the thought of one letting go of a litre of fluid at 30psi during a bleed is a little offputting.
I too have the Gunson easybleed and it's a great bit of kit; I have bled brakes and clutches as a one man job without problem. Regarding spillage or fluid going everywhere, if you simply test the seal to the reservoir with just air pressure (no fluid in the bottle) you will know if you have the cap on correctly without risking any mess or wasted fluid.
With most modern cars you need to cycle the ABS solenoids to drain the majority of the fluid, just sucking from the wheel furthest away from the MC doesn't remove very much fluid so you need to bleed the brakes once conventionally then connect a service tool and set it to cycle the abs then bleed the system once again.
I discovered this for myself on a Ford Focus using the conventional method but wasn't happy with the results so did some research then a couple of days later using some freeware called Forscan which connects via odb2 activated the 'ABS service bleed' function which is the same routine that's used at the dealerships which then cycles the pump and on the second bleeding a load more dirty fluid was expelled.
I discovered this for myself on a Ford Focus using the conventional method but wasn't happy with the results so did some research then a couple of days later using some freeware called Forscan which connects via odb2 activated the 'ABS service bleed' function which is the same routine that's used at the dealerships which then cycles the pump and on the second bleeding a load more dirty fluid was expelled.
I've used a Sealey vacuum bleeder with zero success - whether it was me, the tool's useless or the car (MB 129 SL) I don't know. I then used a Sealey pressure bleeder, similar to the one above, which, after a false start (for heaven's sake depressurise before removing the quick release coupling - an hour spent washing out the scuttle to prevent the fluid eating the paint is no fun) did a great job.
if youve got a nice car id take zero chances. just before pressuring the kit I would cover the engine bay and the wings plus front end with large old rags or towels or old bits of carpet (that havent previously been used to mop up brake fluid!). id also wrap an old tea towel around the fluid bottle with enough to the cover the lid so if it all does go pop you wont get any on the paint or the engine......i dont even think 30 seconds is too short a time to cause damage maybe 5-10 seconds id suggest damage occurs to the finish whih might be lifted with cutting compound. i still keep the bucket of water to hand with sponge just in case.
Vincefox said:
Hate to be a pain, but if you have chance could you point me to a link or pic of the kind of thing you mean please?
I know I'm going to buy the kit do do this somehow but want to make sure I go for the best solution for me. I had the car resprayed a couple of years ago and the thought of one letting go of a litre of fluid at 30psi during a bleed is a little offputting.
This is the new version of mine:I know I'm going to buy the kit do do this somehow but want to make sure I go for the best solution for me. I had the car resprayed a couple of years ago and the thought of one letting go of a litre of fluid at 30psi during a bleed is a little offputting.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht637-air-...
I use pressure all the time. Way better than vacuum.
I've got this one
https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/1/710-134428-41853-...
Lovely machine but I ended up buying OP one as it's so much easier.
I've got this one
https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/1/710-134428-41853-...
Lovely machine but I ended up buying OP one as it's so much easier.
rxe said:
Vincefox said:
Hate to be a pain, but if you have chance could you point me to a link or pic of the kind of thing you mean please?
I know I'm going to buy the kit do do this somehow but want to make sure I go for the best solution for me. I had the car resprayed a couple of years ago and the thought of one letting go of a litre of fluid at 30psi during a bleed is a little offputting.
This is the new version of mine:I know I'm going to buy the kit do do this somehow but want to make sure I go for the best solution for me. I had the car resprayed a couple of years ago and the thought of one letting go of a litre of fluid at 30psi during a bleed is a little offputting.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht637-air-...
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