Engine Overheating
Discussion
Sorry gents. I'm a rank amateur and no nothing
Car is overheating
I've put a couple of litres of coolant in and for a few days it was fine
Overheated again, coolant reservoir empty.
No sign of a leak either on driveway or in engine.
I've pulled over and then driven home a mile or two with heaters on full heat and full power.
(Although there is no heat coming through, just cool air)
I'm going to get more coolant later and will try again and will book it into garage for some one to look at.....
Any ideas what it is most likely to be and likely cost please?
It's a 2010 Renault Clio with 98000 on clock and I use it to transport all 3 kids as they won't fit in my other car.
Any advice or guidance will.be gratefully received.
Car is overheating
I've put a couple of litres of coolant in and for a few days it was fine
Overheated again, coolant reservoir empty.
No sign of a leak either on driveway or in engine.
I've pulled over and then driven home a mile or two with heaters on full heat and full power.
(Although there is no heat coming through, just cool air)
I'm going to get more coolant later and will try again and will book it into garage for some one to look at.....
Any ideas what it is most likely to be and likely cost please?
It's a 2010 Renault Clio with 98000 on clock and I use it to transport all 3 kids as they won't fit in my other car.
Any advice or guidance will.be gratefully received.
If it was your head gasket I'd imagine that your car would be blowing a fair bit of smoke from the exhaust. Especially by the sounds of how much coolant you're losing.
First port of call is probably a pressure test.
My car was overheating (BMW) but that was due to a small leak, and once that was fixed one of fans wasn't working as it should, so was a combination of a leak and inadequate cooling by the fan.
First port of call is probably a pressure test.
My car was overheating (BMW) but that was due to a small leak, and once that was fixed one of fans wasn't working as it should, so was a combination of a leak and inadequate cooling by the fan.
Useless Mark said:
Sorry gents. I'm a rank amateur and no nothing
Car is overheating
I've put a couple of litres of coolant in and for a few days it was fine
Overheated again, coolant reservoir empty.
No sign of a leak either on driveway or in engine.
I've pulled over and then driven home a mile or two with heaters on full heat and full power.
(Although there is no heat coming through, just cool air)
I'm going to get more coolant later and will try again and will book it into garage for some one to look at.....
Any ideas what it is most likely to be and likely cost please?
It's a 2010 Renault Clio with 98000 on clock and I use it to transport all 3 kids as they won't fit in my other car.
Any advice or guidance will.be gratefully received.
If you're getting cool air out of the heater / heater matrix but the engine itself is overheating, that suggests there is not enough coolant in the system - i.e. there's not enough coolant to circulate round the engine and cool it, and it's not getting to the matrix to heat the air.Car is overheating
I've put a couple of litres of coolant in and for a few days it was fine
Overheated again, coolant reservoir empty.
No sign of a leak either on driveway or in engine.
I've pulled over and then driven home a mile or two with heaters on full heat and full power.
(Although there is no heat coming through, just cool air)
I'm going to get more coolant later and will try again and will book it into garage for some one to look at.....
Any ideas what it is most likely to be and likely cost please?
It's a 2010 Renault Clio with 98000 on clock and I use it to transport all 3 kids as they won't fit in my other car.
Any advice or guidance will.be gratefully received.
When the engine is cold (NOT hot) remove the radiator cap and check you can see fluid in there.
If I am correct, you may well have a rad that is only half-full, therefore you won't be able to see any fluid when you take the rad cap off.
If that's the case, refill the radiator directly by using the now-open radiator cap opening (ideally using distilled or de-ionised water for now - about £1-1.50 litre from a supermarket or motorfactors) and then start the engine and let warm it up on the driveway. You should now feel warm/hot air coming through the heater once it's been running and the temperature needle on the dash has started to move, and it shouldn't overheat if you do drive it.
Were you only topping up the coolant overflow tank previously?
And all the coolant was disappearing from there?
If so, it's likely it was being sucked into the system to make up for the low fluid level in the system.
As for why the coolant level is low (if the rad is indeed half-empty)...
Take the oil filler cap off and look inside the cap. If you don't have a white/yellow 'mayonnaise' in the oil filler cap, then I don't think you have a headgasket issue. (As mentioned above by another poster, you may see a white 'steam' out of the exhaust if it does have a failing headgasket.)
In my experience it is more likely to be the radiator leaking/weeping at its joints when hot and under pressure - they tend to crack as they get older, especially plastic ones.
If all the above is correct, see if you get the overheating / lack of heater heat issue again. You can also check the coolant level in the rad every day - it may well not always be completely visible when you take the cap off, but topping up should take hardly any water/coolant if it is holding fluid properly and not leaking out.
If you've had to top up a couple of times, though, and all the above is correct, a replacement rad should be a pretty easy/cheap fix, DIYable if you are so inclined.
If/when you do replace the rad, make sure to use the correct coolant for the vehicle when you refill the system. It should be in the handbook, or Renault can advise. Renault themselves have been very reasonable for a 5 litre bottle of pre-mixed Type D coolant in my experience.
EDIT: as mentioned by an earlier poster, a pressure test of the system by a local garage would enable any leaks to be spotted more easily. It could (hopefully) just be a coolant hose with a small hole or a hose clip that is stretching under pressure.
Edited by RSTurboPaul on Saturday 4th July 20:17
rjg48 said:
A lack of heat on my SAAB, it was losing coolant as steam from the expansion tank, because the thermostat wasn't opening.
I'm confused...Unless I've got it totally wrong, the (hot) coolant within the engine is kept within the engine if the thermostat isn't opening, therefore is not able to reach the expansion tank.
In which case, how is (hot) steam escaping from the coolant tank??
RSTurboPaul said:
rjg48 said:
A lack of heat on my SAAB, it was losing coolant as steam from the expansion tank, because the thermostat wasn't opening.
I'm confused...Unless I've got it totally wrong, the (hot) coolant within the engine is kept within the engine if the thermostat isn't opening, therefore is not able to reach the expansion tank.
In which case, how is (hot) steam escaping from the coolant tank??
The car was overheating, losing coolant and sometimes a lack of heat. A dodgy thermoostat was the problem.
RSTurboPaul said:
If you're getting cool air out of the heater / heater matrix but the engine itself is overheating, that suggests there is not enough coolant in the system - i.e. there's not enough coolant to circulate round the engine and cool it, and it's not getting to the matrix to heat the air.
When the engine is cold (NOT hot) remove the radiator cap and check you can see fluid in there.
If I am correct, you may well have a rad that is only half-full, therefore you won't be able to see any fluid when you take the rad cap off.
If that's the case, refill the radiator directly by using the now-open radiator cap opening (ideally using distilled or de-ionised water for now - about £1-1.50 litre from a supermarket or motorfactors) and then start the engine and let warm it up on the driveway. You should now feel warm/hot air coming through the heater once it's been running and the temperature needle on the dash has started to move, and it shouldn't overheat if you do drive it.
Were you only topping up the coolant overflow tank previously?
And all the coolant was disappearing from there?
If so, it's likely it was being sucked into the system to make up for the low fluid level in the system.
As for why the coolant level is low (if the rad is indeed half-empty)...
Take the oil filler cap off and look inside the cap. If you don't have a white/yellow 'mayonnaise' in the oil filler cap, then I don't think you have a headgasket issue. (As mentioned above by another poster, you may see a white 'steam' out of the exhaust if it does have a failing headgasket.)
In my experience it is more likely to be the radiator leaking/weeping at its joints when hot and under pressure - they tend to crack as they get older, especially plastic ones.
If all the above is correct, see if you get the overheating / lack of heater heat issue again. You can also check the coolant level in the rad every day - it may well not always be completely visible when you take the cap off, but topping up should take hardly any water/coolant if it is holding fluid properly and not leaking out.
If you've had to top up a couple of times, though, and all the above is correct, a replacement rad should be a pretty easy/cheap fix, DIYable if you are so inclined.
If/when you do replace the rad, make sure to use the correct coolant for the vehicle when you refill the system. It should be in the handbook, or Renault can advise. Renault themselves have been very reasonable for a 5 litre bottle of pre-mixed Type D coolant in my experience.
EDIT: as mentioned by an earlier poster, a pressure test of the system by a local garage would enable any leaks to be spotted more easily. It could (hopefully) just be a coolant hose with a small hole or a hose clip that is stretching under pressure.
Hi,When the engine is cold (NOT hot) remove the radiator cap and check you can see fluid in there.
If I am correct, you may well have a rad that is only half-full, therefore you won't be able to see any fluid when you take the rad cap off.
If that's the case, refill the radiator directly by using the now-open radiator cap opening (ideally using distilled or de-ionised water for now - about £1-1.50 litre from a supermarket or motorfactors) and then start the engine and let warm it up on the driveway. You should now feel warm/hot air coming through the heater once it's been running and the temperature needle on the dash has started to move, and it shouldn't overheat if you do drive it.
Were you only topping up the coolant overflow tank previously?
And all the coolant was disappearing from there?
If so, it's likely it was being sucked into the system to make up for the low fluid level in the system.
As for why the coolant level is low (if the rad is indeed half-empty)...
Take the oil filler cap off and look inside the cap. If you don't have a white/yellow 'mayonnaise' in the oil filler cap, then I don't think you have a headgasket issue. (As mentioned above by another poster, you may see a white 'steam' out of the exhaust if it does have a failing headgasket.)
In my experience it is more likely to be the radiator leaking/weeping at its joints when hot and under pressure - they tend to crack as they get older, especially plastic ones.
If all the above is correct, see if you get the overheating / lack of heater heat issue again. You can also check the coolant level in the rad every day - it may well not always be completely visible when you take the cap off, but topping up should take hardly any water/coolant if it is holding fluid properly and not leaking out.
If you've had to top up a couple of times, though, and all the above is correct, a replacement rad should be a pretty easy/cheap fix, DIYable if you are so inclined.
If/when you do replace the rad, make sure to use the correct coolant for the vehicle when you refill the system. It should be in the handbook, or Renault can advise. Renault themselves have been very reasonable for a 5 litre bottle of pre-mixed Type D coolant in my experience.
EDIT: as mentioned by an earlier poster, a pressure test of the system by a local garage would enable any leaks to be spotted more easily. It could (hopefully) just be a coolant hose with a small hole or a hose clip that is stretching under pressure.
Edited by RSTurboPaul on Saturday 4th July 20:17
Thanks a lot for your reply.
The exhaust isn't smoking and the oil seems fine.
This sounds really thick, but where is the radiator?
Previously, I just put coolant into the coolant reservoir, the plastic little tub thing. I followed instructions from YouTube.
I can't find a separate radiator cap/lid or did you mean to put the ionized water into the coolant reservoir?
I've looked online and in the drivers manual and can't see any identification of where the radiator is. The only things I can see are the coolant reservoir, the dip stick and oil caps, the brake fluid reservoir and the windscreen wash reservoir. I can't see any other cap for anything.
Apologies, but I'm well out of my comfort zone here.
I'll take it to a garage asap, but if I can at east top up the radiator i can get to the garage without having to sort out recovery.
Thanks for your time and help
I don't know
I'm literally just at Halfords and have got water and coolant. I'll fill it up and see what happens?
I'm guessing of there is a leak somewhere i should see evidence of that on the driveway?
So far, I haven't. I put 2 litres in the other day, nothing on driveway but likewise nothing in the reservoir either.
I'm literally just at Halfords and have got water and coolant. I'll fill it up and see what happens?
I'm guessing of there is a leak somewhere i should see evidence of that on the driveway?
So far, I haven't. I put 2 litres in the other day, nothing on driveway but likewise nothing in the reservoir either.
Sounds like Head Gasket to me, too.
I know that symptoms of HG Failure can include Mayo on the Filler and Steam from the Exhaust, specially in severe cases; but I've had plenty of HG Failures and never had either symptom.
Try running the vehicle with the Coolant Filler cap removed. This will allow any pressure caused by a weeping HG to escape. You probably won't lose much / any coolant via the open Filler and you'll likely find that the Heater works again and it loses a lot less coolant than it was.
If any water loss from the open filler goes near major Electrical components, (I suspect it won't) take 'bodge' steps to keep the water away from them. Its unlikely its gonna 'pour' out of there at a rate of knots, but you'll likely lose a bit.
Assuming the system does behave in this way, this should make you even more convinced its HG.
Also, give serious thought whether to
a) repair it
b) sell it as 'Spares or Repair'
c) scrap it - value should be at least £150
d) sell it to someone like Charles Trent Salvage who I understand take on cars with 'issues', albeit possibly its a bit old for this
Also don't forget that Garage bills can 'spiral' far above the initial quote, and usually did in my experience. Neither mine or my family's cars have had any Garage mechanic lay a spanner on them, in the past 10 years+; they only visit for MOT Testing, I do the repairs.
If it were mine, I'd probably top it up with water daily, then put it on eBay as Spares or Repair at £150 start when I couldn't be bothered with it any more, or if it overheats despite being topped up that same day. If it doesn't sell, scrap it.
Check the cost of cars of the same make & model on eBay or Auto Trader to establish what its worth, I'm not sure but would guess approx £1,500
Don't forget to put some Antifreeze in it,from time to time, specially if the weather gets cold and if you plan to repair it rather than scrap it. Straight water in an engine isn't good for it.
With luck it could have 6 months or more in it yet.... but if an MOT approaches there's a strong chance it won't pass the exhaust emissions if the HG's gone. £40 on an early MOT can be a wise investment, as it could '100% Confirm' the HG and also indicate if the vehicle has 'other issues' besides.
I know that symptoms of HG Failure can include Mayo on the Filler and Steam from the Exhaust, specially in severe cases; but I've had plenty of HG Failures and never had either symptom.
Try running the vehicle with the Coolant Filler cap removed. This will allow any pressure caused by a weeping HG to escape. You probably won't lose much / any coolant via the open Filler and you'll likely find that the Heater works again and it loses a lot less coolant than it was.
If any water loss from the open filler goes near major Electrical components, (I suspect it won't) take 'bodge' steps to keep the water away from them. Its unlikely its gonna 'pour' out of there at a rate of knots, but you'll likely lose a bit.
Assuming the system does behave in this way, this should make you even more convinced its HG.
Also, give serious thought whether to
a) repair it
b) sell it as 'Spares or Repair'
c) scrap it - value should be at least £150
d) sell it to someone like Charles Trent Salvage who I understand take on cars with 'issues', albeit possibly its a bit old for this
Also don't forget that Garage bills can 'spiral' far above the initial quote, and usually did in my experience. Neither mine or my family's cars have had any Garage mechanic lay a spanner on them, in the past 10 years+; they only visit for MOT Testing, I do the repairs.
If it were mine, I'd probably top it up with water daily, then put it on eBay as Spares or Repair at £150 start when I couldn't be bothered with it any more, or if it overheats despite being topped up that same day. If it doesn't sell, scrap it.
Check the cost of cars of the same make & model on eBay or Auto Trader to establish what its worth, I'm not sure but would guess approx £1,500
Don't forget to put some Antifreeze in it,from time to time, specially if the weather gets cold and if you plan to repair it rather than scrap it. Straight water in an engine isn't good for it.
With luck it could have 6 months or more in it yet.... but if an MOT approaches there's a strong chance it won't pass the exhaust emissions if the HG's gone. £40 on an early MOT can be a wise investment, as it could '100% Confirm' the HG and also indicate if the vehicle has 'other issues' besides.
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