How to never snap a bolt?
Discussion
Had this happen a couple of times to me but it wasn't the end of the world, the bolts I ended up snapping was to hold things down.
But now I use WD40 a lot on any bolt I remove. I also heard about tightening a bolt slightly before loosening it to dislodge the rust in the threads? And also to use heat to get bolts out?
Any ideas on how to never snap a bolt?
But now I use WD40 a lot on any bolt I remove. I also heard about tightening a bolt slightly before loosening it to dislodge the rust in the threads? And also to use heat to get bolts out?
Any ideas on how to never snap a bolt?
Easiest way is never to touch them!
There's a few ways, but sometimes the shank just under the head is too corroded and can't get the remaining portion of bolt loose.
Imho the best starting point loosening a bolt is to wire brush any crust, then soak it in penetrating oil (which WD40 isn't), and if possible then apply some heat before slightly tightening before loosening, preferably loosening with an impact wrench.
There's a few ways, but sometimes the shank just under the head is too corroded and can't get the remaining portion of bolt loose.
Imho the best starting point loosening a bolt is to wire brush any crust, then soak it in penetrating oil (which WD40 isn't), and if possible then apply some heat before slightly tightening before loosening, preferably loosening with an impact wrench.
Always I do the last bolt first, it’s always the last bolt that snaps, so if you do that one first it will be taken by suprise and not snap.
Sometimes do the middle bolt first or some other random order just to confuse the f
kers.
Always keep them guessing.
This also applies to rounded off heads and Alan key head stripping.
Sometimes do the middle bolt first or some other random order just to confuse the f
kers.Always keep them guessing.
This also applies to rounded off heads and Alan key head stripping.
Krikkit said:
Easiest way is never to touch them!
There's a few ways, but sometimes the shank just under the head is too corroded and can't get the remaining portion of bolt loose.
Imho the best starting point loosening a bolt is to wire brush any crust, then soak it in penetrating oil (which WD40 isn't), and if possible then apply some heat before slightly tightening before loosening, preferably loosening with an impact wrench.
Always thought WD40 was the 'go to' for rusty bolt removal - what is a preferred juice? There's a few ways, but sometimes the shank just under the head is too corroded and can't get the remaining portion of bolt loose.
Imho the best starting point loosening a bolt is to wire brush any crust, then soak it in penetrating oil (which WD40 isn't), and if possible then apply some heat before slightly tightening before loosening, preferably loosening with an impact wrench.
I've heard of diesel and something mixed being used.
There's no way to guarantee it but there's a few things you can do to help
WD/your preferred lubricant with time to set in. If you can reach the rear of the bolt then apply lubricant on that end, too.
A good solid whack with a hammer
Impact drivers
Heat with flame or induction heaters (Be careful if you're using lubricants at the same time!)
Repeated loosening/tightening of the bolt can help. I believe it's often 1 turn out to half a turn back in or something. Makes for slow going but faster than faffing with extraction tools
Stop and let the bolt cool down when undoing if you've started to turn it and it's still really tight
When the bolt has started to come loose, more lube.
You could also do some preventative maintenance too and give rustier bolts a quick squirt of lubricant on exposed bolts every so often. If you're doing your own repairs and have disassembled various things, copper slip the bolts before putting them back in and that should make disassembly later much easier.
WD/your preferred lubricant with time to set in. If you can reach the rear of the bolt then apply lubricant on that end, too.
A good solid whack with a hammer
Impact drivers
Heat with flame or induction heaters (Be careful if you're using lubricants at the same time!)
Repeated loosening/tightening of the bolt can help. I believe it's often 1 turn out to half a turn back in or something. Makes for slow going but faster than faffing with extraction tools
Stop and let the bolt cool down when undoing if you've started to turn it and it's still really tight
When the bolt has started to come loose, more lube.
You could also do some preventative maintenance too and give rustier bolts a quick squirt of lubricant on exposed bolts every so often. If you're doing your own repairs and have disassembled various things, copper slip the bolts before putting them back in and that should make disassembly later much easier.
Pupbelly said:
Always thought WD40 was the 'go to' for rusty bolt removal - what is a preferred juice?
I've heard of diesel and something mixed being used.
WD40 do a penetrating version - https://www.wd40.com/products/ - the standard stuff is more all-purpose. I've heard of diesel and something mixed being used.
As others have said, PlusGas is widely used.
WD40 is useless as a penetrating fluid, it is a water displacer, hence the name.
Plusgas is better, but still not brilliant.
Diesel is pretty good.
50/50 ATF/Acetone is excellent, even 50/50 Oil/white spirit is pretty good.
Heat is excellent.
Shock/vibration is good.
Many, many different ways to free off rusty/seized bolts.
Plusgas is better, but still not brilliant.
Diesel is pretty good.
50/50 ATF/Acetone is excellent, even 50/50 Oil/white spirit is pretty good.
Heat is excellent.
Shock/vibration is good.
Many, many different ways to free off rusty/seized bolts.
E-bmw said:
WD40 is useless as a penetrating fluid, it is a water displacer, hence the name.
Plusgas is better, but still not brilliant.
Diesel is pretty good.
50/50 ATF/Acetone is excellent, even 50/50 Oil/white spirit is pretty good.
Interesting. I tend to use Plus Gas, and have occasionally soaked things in diesel if they were removable. Not some across the other suggestions before. Presumably any light oil in the place of the ATF would work (I'm thinking fork oil), with the acetone thinning it to allow it penetrate and then evaporate off leaving the oil behind?Plusgas is better, but still not brilliant.
Diesel is pretty good.
50/50 ATF/Acetone is excellent, even 50/50 Oil/white spirit is pretty good.
The biggest thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet is patience!
Last time I had to take my exhaust header pipes off I gave them a squirt of plus gas every evening for a week, and they came off relatively easily despite the nuts looking very corroded.
Wd40 will help lubricate and soften some rust on non seized threads overall requiring less breakaway torque to get them out.
Seized and Semi Seized threads can be freed with heat and or extreme torque. Level of heat used can and will also impact on the overall size of the threads and nut (very high heat will shrink them once cooled down, warpage)
Real seized will require to be cut out. Real seized is becoming more common now due to the use of alternative alloys. The last one I cut I couldn't free in my vice afterwards either.
Essential plan B items include heating, cutting, drilling and welding.
Strangely enough I found drilling metal to be the hardest of the plan b skills to learn.
Seized and Semi Seized threads can be freed with heat and or extreme torque. Level of heat used can and will also impact on the overall size of the threads and nut (very high heat will shrink them once cooled down, warpage)
Real seized will require to be cut out. Real seized is becoming more common now due to the use of alternative alloys. The last one I cut I couldn't free in my vice afterwards either.
Essential plan B items include heating, cutting, drilling and welding.
Strangely enough I found drilling metal to be the hardest of the plan b skills to learn.
sliks said:
Strangely enough I found drilling metal to be the hardest of the plan b skills to learn.
Likely because most people do it WAY too fast.You should ensure you have good quality (Presto are good) bits which are sharp & do it as slowly as you can with regular breaks for the tool point to cool down.
If you stop seeing swarf coming off you are doing something wrong or the drill has lost it edge, no amount of pressure or speed at this point will do anything at all.
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