Towbar installation, Wilts / Hants border.
Discussion
Not in Hants/Wilts, but try http://www.amjautoservices.co.uk/ in Hungerford
I've used a mobile fitting service a couple of times that fit it in your drive, very happy with them too. Google can help you find one locally, but here's a starter:
http://towbarsandtowing.rtrk.co.uk/?scid=50870&...
http://towbarsandtowing.rtrk.co.uk/?scid=50870&...
Deerfoot said:
^ How much did you get charged for fitting? Mechanically I'd give it a go, electrically I wouldn't touch it.....
Difficult to quantify. Anything for the ML is just bloody expensive, and the quote I had for the Legacy included "spliced in" electrics which are wrong on so many levels.I fitted plug-in electrics which my 7yo son could have installed but they were more expensive. I suppose the difference in price would have been about £200 to £250 to have it all fitted for me, which is more than I earn in a day but the experience was fun (for me) so it was a choice based on something other than financial demands.
Edited by Watchman on Tuesday 10th July 07:36
P.S. About those electrics... worth you checking up on the options. Historically in the UK we used 7-pin connectors which were unreliable and provided power to the trailer's rear lights only (and not to a reverse light I think).
That was called 12N.
Then the "white" socket was introduced, called 12S which was in addition to your black 12N socket (which is why you see people with 2 sockets), and added electrics for the interior of a caravan and (I think) reverse lights. It allowed you to power a fridge or other high-power (still 12v) items.
Be careful with powering a fridge though, because you *should* also have something called "split" electrics which basically monitors the status of your car battery and cuts power if the charge falls to a "safe" level where you can still start the car.
Then you have 13-pin electrics which have all the functionality of 12N/12S but you still may need the split electrics in addition (it wires into the same socket). This socket and plug combination is far superior to the 12N/12S system. It does not rely in a friction-fit, instead utilises a 1/4-turn plug and a proper water-tight seal.
It's dead easy to convert a trailer or caravan to use the 13-pin plug (and the plugs are only £5-£10), and you'll find most modern plug-in items will come with 13-pin only now (like my Thule tow-bar mounted bike rack, for example).
That was called 12N.
Then the "white" socket was introduced, called 12S which was in addition to your black 12N socket (which is why you see people with 2 sockets), and added electrics for the interior of a caravan and (I think) reverse lights. It allowed you to power a fridge or other high-power (still 12v) items.
Be careful with powering a fridge though, because you *should* also have something called "split" electrics which basically monitors the status of your car battery and cuts power if the charge falls to a "safe" level where you can still start the car.
Then you have 13-pin electrics which have all the functionality of 12N/12S but you still may need the split electrics in addition (it wires into the same socket). This socket and plug combination is far superior to the 12N/12S system. It does not rely in a friction-fit, instead utilises a 1/4-turn plug and a proper water-tight seal.
It's dead easy to convert a trailer or caravan to use the 13-pin plug (and the plugs are only £5-£10), and you'll find most modern plug-in items will come with 13-pin only now (like my Thule tow-bar mounted bike rack, for example).
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