Motorhome + Towing
Discussion
Good Afternoon, I'm hoping someone may be able to shed some light on my towing options with a motorhome. It will be used to tow my race car.
Ok so I'm on a post 1997 licence with a standard 3500kg licence. And will be doing my trailer test.
I have a Brian james twin axle trailer and 950kg race car. So say 1700kg tow weight.
I have been looking a motorhome options, it seems to quote 4 weights on the chassis plate. What am I looking out for? What can and can I not tow on a B + E.
Any thoughts?
Ok so I'm on a post 1997 licence with a standard 3500kg licence. And will be doing my trailer test.
I have a Brian james twin axle trailer and 950kg race car. So say 1700kg tow weight.
I have been looking a motorhome options, it seems to quote 4 weights on the chassis plate. What am I looking out for? What can and can I not tow on a B + E.
Any thoughts?
Gordon-cgckl said:
Thanks for the info
A motorhome I'm looking at has the following weights on the plate
3400
5400
1750
1900
Am i safe to assume I'm ok with that, 3400 keeps me under 3500 for my b licence, and gives me 2000 to cover my trailer etc
When you have B+E you can tow a max of 2000 behind that motorhome A motorhome I'm looking at has the following weights on the plate
3400
5400
1750
1900
Am i safe to assume I'm ok with that, 3400 keeps me under 3500 for my b licence, and gives me 2000 to cover my trailer etc
5400-3400=2000
Most motorhomes struggle on front axle weight with most of the payload going on the back axel
Will be interested in knowing how you get on with trailer nose weight and the long over hang on a Motorhome
My track car has a big straight 6 in the front and it's on a short ish trailer so has a high nose weight
I guess in a caterham \ mx5 on a long ish trailer it should be fine
Most motorhomes struggle on front axle weight with most of the payload going on the back axel
Will be interested in knowing how you get on with trailer nose weight and the long over hang on a Motorhome
My track car has a big straight 6 in the front and it's on a short ish trailer so has a high nose weight
I guess in a caterham \ mx5 on a long ish trailer it should be fine
I spent quite a bit of time in this.
Look hard at most MH and they have tiny towing weights. Most are right on the limit of weight already. Knowing this and going to a paddock, most people are woefully overweight but don't seem to know or care. Also towing with fwd MH is not great (getting stuck on wet grass, pulling away at junctions, climbing hills etc).
My advice is... Get your b+e. Buy a 5t van and convert it, buy one done or if you have loads of money buy a 5t MH with a manual box (if it has a auto, make sure it is capable of towing 7t). Also you need grunt so 150bhp + is a must.
Look hard at most MH and they have tiny towing weights. Most are right on the limit of weight already. Knowing this and going to a paddock, most people are woefully overweight but don't seem to know or care. Also towing with fwd MH is not great (getting stuck on wet grass, pulling away at junctions, climbing hills etc).
My advice is... Get your b+e. Buy a 5t van and convert it, buy one done or if you have loads of money buy a 5t MH with a manual box (if it has a auto, make sure it is capable of towing 7t). Also you need grunt so 150bhp + is a must.
There was someone on Facebook or Twitter (cant remember which) who had posted their motorhome and trailer in Corsica or somewhere where the trailer had been used for secure storage for a prototype car. There was a subsequent discussion about the weight limits on the motorhome. as it looked like a transit. Was apparently a Sprinter.
Thurbs said:
...
My advice is... Get your b+e. Buy a 5t van and convert it, buy one done or if you have loads of money buy a 5t MH with a manual box (if it has a auto, make sure it is capable of towing 7t). Also you need grunt so 150bhp + is a must.
A 5t van and trailer will need C1+E. That means doing a medical, theory test, driving test to get your C1, then another driving test to get C1+E. It's an expensive and long winded way of doing it.My advice is... Get your b+e. Buy a 5t van and convert it, buy one done or if you have loads of money buy a 5t MH with a manual box (if it has a auto, make sure it is capable of towing 7t). Also you need grunt so 150bhp + is a must.
WilliamWoollard said:
A 5t van and trailer will need C1+E. That means doing a medical, theory test, driving test to get your C1, then another driving test to get C1+E. It's an expensive and long winded way of doing it.
Good point. William is wise , I am not . Edited by Thurbs on Tuesday 30th January 09:41
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