Engine flush - how..?

[rob1234]

I heard use oil designed for diesels for one whole service interval, as it contains more detergents? Have never done it myself though.

[Darkslider]

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Engine flush doesn't 'knacker' your engine, it might just highlight if your engine is already knackered.

I think thats the main point really!
My engines already worn in some place (either piston rings or valve seals), so I guess flush might dislodge any sludge that's actually doing any 'sealing' - if you get what I mean.

Well if you think your engine is actually about to die an oil change is the least of your worries!

What a lot of people also do is leave the engine flush in for too long. Flush works by thinning out the old oil so it drains out more completely, so if you pour some flush in and carry on driving the car for a week you're going to do some damage as you're reducing what lubricational capacity the old oil has left.

I pour a can of flush in, quick trip around the industrial estate and back in to change the oil while the engine's still warm. Never had a problem yet.

[Fastra]

Darkslider said:

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Engine flush doesn't 'knacker' your engine, it might just highlight if your engine is already knackered.

I think thats the main point really!
My engines already worn in some place (either piston rings or valve seals), so I guess flush might dislodge any sludge that's actually doing any 'sealing' - if you get what I mean.

Well if you think your engine is actually about to die an oil change is the least of your worries!
.

No, its not that bad yet. Like I said the Stop Smoke stuff made a lot of difference. Plus I put some Redex through the petrol which also seemed to help.
Eventually, though, I will have to look at something more permanent and I've been looking at replacement engines on ebay which are going in the region of £300-400. Unfortunately engines from the later Mk5 won't fit due to their Canbus electrical system.. ...and these are even cheaper and obviously more readily available.

Edited by Fastra on Friday 24th April 11:22

[Darkslider]

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Engine flush doesn't 'knacker' your engine, it might just highlight if your engine is already knackered.

I think thats the main point really!
My engines already worn in some place (either piston rings or valve seals), so I guess flush might dislodge any sludge that's actually doing any 'sealing' - if you get what I mean.

Well if you think your engine is actually about to die an oil change is the least of your worries!
.

No, its not that bad yet. Like I said the Stop Smoke stuff made a lot of difference. Plus I put some Redex through the petrol which also seemed to help.
Eventually, though, I will have to look at something more permanent and I've been looking at replacement engines on ebay which are going in the region of £300-400. Unfortunately engines from the later Mk5 won't fit due to their Canbus electrical system.. ...and these are even cheaper and obviously more readily available.

Edited by Fastra on Friday 24th April 11:22

You know it makes sense.

[Fastra]

Darkslider said:

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Fastra said:

Darkslider said:

Engine flush doesn't 'knacker' your engine, it might just highlight if your engine is already knackered.

I think thats the main point really!
My engines already worn in some place (either piston rings or valve seals), so I guess flush might dislodge any sludge that's actually doing any 'sealing' - if you get what I mean.

Well if you think your engine is actually about to die an oil change is the least of your worries!
.

No, its not that bad yet. Like I said the Stop Smoke stuff made a lot of difference. Plus I put some Redex through the petrol which also seemed to help.
Eventually, though, I will have to look at something more permanent and I've been looking at replacement engines on ebay which are going in the region of £300-400. Unfortunately engines from the later Mk5 won't fit due to their Canbus electrical system.. ...and these are even cheaper and obviously more readily available.

Edited by Fastra on Friday 24th April 11:22

You know it makes sense.

If I sell the kids, the house and, possibly, my guitar......

[jatinder]

What grade of oil are you using?

Try a different brand of oil, my dads clio DCi has done 175,000 miles, always used a bit of oil.

Changed to a different brand (Carlube IIRC) hasn't used a drop at all.

Used the same on my mums golf GTi doesn't use any oil now?

[Fastra]

jatinder said:

What grade of oil are you using?

Try a different brand of oil, my dads clio DCi has done 175,000 miles, always used a bit of oil.

Changed to a different brand (Carlube IIRC) hasn't used a drop at all.

Used the same on my mums golf GTi doesn't use any oil now?

Have been using Halfords semi-synth 10-40 (which now I come to think, it does seem to have been consumed rather quickly..!) - so I've just got some of Vauxhalls own.

So it'll be interesting to see the difference.

Edited by Fastra on Friday 24th April 16:34

[GC8]

triggersbroom said:

I've always used a cheaper brand of the correct grade of oil. Drain old oil (keep filter on), fill up with cheaper oil and run for up to 50 miles.
Drain oil, change filter and refil with proper oil.

+1

[tr7v8]

rob1234 said:

I heard use oil designed for diesels for one whole service interval, as it contains more detergents? Have never done it myself though.

When I was younger & running old motors, the standard technique was the first service it had a sump full of Rotella as Dad ran a fleet of desesal vans & had a big tank of it! After a couple of weeks I'd dump it, fill with something decent & shiny new filter. Never did any harm & used to clear all manner of clag out.

[Utterly Clueless]

just for the records it may not be the halfords oil causing the problem,

Everyone thinks its ste but its made by comma, which is fairly good.

also try a fully synth alternative.

Thom

[Nolar Dog]

Utterly Clueless said:

just for the records it may not be the halfords oil causing the problem,

I love Halfords green tin oil.

[ZeeTacoe]

Darkslider said:

Garage I worked in used to use Forte engine flush with every oil change, with no ill effects.

it works well if it is done on every single oil change from new.

[raf_gti]

FWIW I ran both my Clio 182 and 205 GTi on Total Excellium semi-synth and it made a noticable difference, much much smooter and more responsive.

After a lot of recommendations on the 205 forum I changed the oil to Millers and I found it to have left the engine a lot more smokey and rattly.

Just goes to show the difference a different brand of oil can make.

[MeanMother]

if you want to get most of the black stuff out i got a harley and yes might be more expensive but i change my oil take the bike for 20min around the block. take it back and drain the oil out now it comes out black thats all the st put another lot of new oil in around the block check the oil on the dip stick and its still clear.

[SoCalDave]

Basically draining your old oil then half fill it with a flushing oil. Run your engine for 20 minutes in fast idle so the flushing oil circulates. Drain then change the oil filter. But if you use a powerful engine oil and a nano-based oil additive such as the Everglide EGS and you get your oil and oil filter changed regularly, then you might not need an engine flush at all.