DIY mechanics success stories
Discussion
Bah, some of you gents are clearly mechanics or something, and your efforts should be disqualified.
My success rate (list may not be exhaustive), as a total amateur currently runs at:
Removal, cleaning and refit of EGR valve. (Two bolts).
Diagnosis and replacement of failed solenoid in locking fuel filler flap (scrapyard part). Tricky access, but essentially two screws.
Diagnosis, removal and replacement of coil packs (breakers yard part). Four torx screws.
Replacement anti roll bar links. B'stard of a job when you're working it out as you go along on axle stands on the pavement outside your house in the piddling rain, and the parts you've bought in good faith from local motor factors turn out to be the wrong ones. Two bolts per side, excluding jacking up and removing wheels.
Replacement roof aerial. Again, when the parts are sold as the correct ones, yet bear no relation to the profile of roof or existing connectors, this causes much varied swearing. Lots of fiddly little screws to dismantle most of the interior.
Refurbishment of electric boot switch that had got clogged up with crud and ceased function. Again lots of screws. Who'd have thought you need so many fasteners on interior trim?
Diagnosis of neighbours failed thermostat on 1.4 VAG engine.
Diagnosis of failed dual mass flywheel on diesel Mondeo.
Basically, thanks to the internet, I can be pretty useful.
Just wish I'd had more bottle earlier on in life. The cars I could have had for longer, and the experience would've been worth the grazed knuckles and filthyness.
My success rate (list may not be exhaustive), as a total amateur currently runs at:
Removal, cleaning and refit of EGR valve. (Two bolts).
Diagnosis and replacement of failed solenoid in locking fuel filler flap (scrapyard part). Tricky access, but essentially two screws.
Diagnosis, removal and replacement of coil packs (breakers yard part). Four torx screws.
Replacement anti roll bar links. B'stard of a job when you're working it out as you go along on axle stands on the pavement outside your house in the piddling rain, and the parts you've bought in good faith from local motor factors turn out to be the wrong ones. Two bolts per side, excluding jacking up and removing wheels.
Replacement roof aerial. Again, when the parts are sold as the correct ones, yet bear no relation to the profile of roof or existing connectors, this causes much varied swearing. Lots of fiddly little screws to dismantle most of the interior.
Refurbishment of electric boot switch that had got clogged up with crud and ceased function. Again lots of screws. Who'd have thought you need so many fasteners on interior trim?
Diagnosis of neighbours failed thermostat on 1.4 VAG engine.
Diagnosis of failed dual mass flywheel on diesel Mondeo.
Basically, thanks to the internet, I can be pretty useful.
Just wish I'd had more bottle earlier on in life. The cars I could have had for longer, and the experience would've been worth the grazed knuckles and filthyness.
Interesting reading on this thread.
Someone mentioned the therapeutic benefits of DIY jobs on the cars. I agree.
Over fifty years of car ownership with one or more, often far more about the place for most of that time, I could not afford to run so many cars if I did not pick up a spanner occasionally. Since my two sons and my better half all have their own cars we service and renew all of them on a DIY basis thus saving many thousands over the years.
Starting with changing Brake Discs and pads on my first MGB back in the early 1960s, new original MG discs were £1/10/6 ~ about £1.52pence today ..
With each successful renewal my confidence has grown over the years. I did entrust some work on my first MGB to professionals but, they cocked it up and that undermined my confidence in so called pro-outfits which has lasted a lifetime now. Hence my first and subsequent attempts at doing these jobs myself. That way I know they have been done well which is not always the case at garages.
Now engine swaps, gearbox rebuilds and even clutch replacements are all tackled with success at a fraction of the cost of entrusting this work to a pro-workshop where a good job is never a certainty or guaranteed. Mostly on my own cars over the years.
However, just recently there was
New Discs and Pads soon had that sorted :~
Then it was :~
More recently, there's a job I've had on the back burner for at least a couple of years.
I mounted an OE Rover/Alpine 6 CD Multichanger to the boot of my 620ti a few days ago. I've had the Multichanger for a year or two but lacked the additional metal frame support which bolts behind the Boot Lining on the driver's side of the boot. Without that, the Changer has been happily working velcro-ed to the carpet under the front passenger seat. Not an ideal location.
Couple weeks ago a tidy 620 Honda engined car in a local breaker yard had its Multichanger abused by someone cluelessly trying to remove the 6 CD Cassette. Both Multichanger and cassette ruined. However, the support hidden behind the boot lining had not been abused.
By the way, that tidy breaker yard 620 had a recent MoT failure sheet in the glove box. It had failed only on inefficient handbrake. Usually an easy TLC fix....
The only time consuming part of the task was routing the cable between the OE Philips R860 Head Unit down behind and under the centre console, under the offside rear passenger carpet and behind the rear seat trim into the boot. I took the opportunity to thoroughly vacuum the carpet and boot linings too. Easier with the driver's seat and part of the rear carpet removed and lifted to accommodate the cable. That along with the vacuuming took a leisurely two hours. What a difference though. I even removed the unused Pirelli spare wheel and cleaned under that.
Anyway, after fitting the Multichanger and replacing all the disturbed parts, I loaded six of my favourite CDs into the Autochanger. Works perfectly. Here's the completed job :~
My two 620ti and Rover 45 Connoisseur all have this CD Multichanger and despite age of the components and frequent use, all work perfectly.
I also have a spare R860, 6CD Multichanger and the long cable. Those will come in handy one day...
Panel and paintwork can be horrendously expensive in a pro-workshop. In the past few years, I've tackled such work with pleasing results. These scrapes and areas of light corrosion on my old 620ti, since sold, came up surprisingly well with my amateur repairs and painting:~
This :~
Became this :~
and the final result ~ all done on a shoestring of cost :~
There was a time when I thought I did not have the skills to tackle these jobs but, you never know until you try.
Yes, very therapeutic on both oneself and wallet ...
.
.
Someone mentioned the therapeutic benefits of DIY jobs on the cars. I agree.
Over fifty years of car ownership with one or more, often far more about the place for most of that time, I could not afford to run so many cars if I did not pick up a spanner occasionally. Since my two sons and my better half all have their own cars we service and renew all of them on a DIY basis thus saving many thousands over the years.
Starting with changing Brake Discs and pads on my first MGB back in the early 1960s, new original MG discs were £1/10/6 ~ about £1.52pence today ..
With each successful renewal my confidence has grown over the years. I did entrust some work on my first MGB to professionals but, they cocked it up and that undermined my confidence in so called pro-outfits which has lasted a lifetime now. Hence my first and subsequent attempts at doing these jobs myself. That way I know they have been done well which is not always the case at garages.Now engine swaps, gearbox rebuilds and even clutch replacements are all tackled with success at a fraction of the cost of entrusting this work to a pro-workshop where a good job is never a certainty or guaranteed. Mostly on my own cars over the years.
However, just recently there was
Son No 2 said:
.
"Dad, my car's making a noise when I brake."
.
Yes, it was indeed. The pads were well worn and just starting metal to metal contact... "Dad, my car's making a noise when I brake."
.
New Discs and Pads soon had that sorted :~Then it was :~
said:
.
Dad, my brakes are superb..
.
That's what Dads are for ... Dad, my brakes are superb..
.
More recently, there's a job I've had on the back burner for at least a couple of years.
I mounted an OE Rover/Alpine 6 CD Multichanger to the boot of my 620ti a few days ago. I've had the Multichanger for a year or two but lacked the additional metal frame support which bolts behind the Boot Lining on the driver's side of the boot. Without that, the Changer has been happily working velcro-ed to the carpet under the front passenger seat. Not an ideal location.
Couple weeks ago a tidy 620 Honda engined car in a local breaker yard had its Multichanger abused by someone cluelessly trying to remove the 6 CD Cassette. Both Multichanger and cassette ruined. However, the support hidden behind the boot lining had not been abused.
By the way, that tidy breaker yard 620 had a recent MoT failure sheet in the glove box. It had failed only on inefficient handbrake. Usually an easy TLC fix....
The only time consuming part of the task was routing the cable between the OE Philips R860 Head Unit down behind and under the centre console, under the offside rear passenger carpet and behind the rear seat trim into the boot. I took the opportunity to thoroughly vacuum the carpet and boot linings too. Easier with the driver's seat and part of the rear carpet removed and lifted to accommodate the cable. That along with the vacuuming took a leisurely two hours. What a difference though. I even removed the unused Pirelli spare wheel and cleaned under that.
Anyway, after fitting the Multichanger and replacing all the disturbed parts, I loaded six of my favourite CDs into the Autochanger. Works perfectly. Here's the completed job :~
My two 620ti and Rover 45 Connoisseur all have this CD Multichanger and despite age of the components and frequent use, all work perfectly.
I also have a spare R860, 6CD Multichanger and the long cable. Those will come in handy one day...
Panel and paintwork can be horrendously expensive in a pro-workshop. In the past few years, I've tackled such work with pleasing results. These scrapes and areas of light corrosion on my old 620ti, since sold, came up surprisingly well with my amateur repairs and painting:~
This :~
Became this :~
and the final result ~ all done on a shoestring of cost :~
There was a time when I thought I did not have the skills to tackle these jobs but, you never know until you try.
Yes, very therapeutic on both oneself and wallet ...
.
.
Quite miss it all now really, but in the past...
3 1979 Mini Clubmans - various stuff that all classic mini owners will be aware of,:
replacing rear subframes, making new dashboards (and interior etc, etc), wheel bearings, engines, re-jetting carbs, swapping exhausts (LCB and RC40's) - pretty much standard Mini 'testbed' stuff really.
1995 Clio 1.4 RT:
Much fun was had with a sticking speedo needle. Somehow the clocks has twisted and it was fouling on the face of the clock itself. Fixed with a strategically placed 2" self tapping screw!!
.
2002 Astra 1.6:
Diagnose then replace heater/air con control module after I'd over enthusiatically jet washed the engine and got water in it - god knows how as it's inside the inner wing...!
Replaced inlet manifold - internal flap was worn and making a racket.
Repalced exhaust manifold - the usual cracked Vauxhall thing.
Replaced interal heater re-circulation flap (and got finger stuck in it, right under the dashboard up against the bulkhead - queue reaching under car and throwing stones at house window trying to get attention, to no avail, as it was well and truly wedged in - eventually managed to reach for an extremely sharp multi-tool knife and cut round some plastic.)
Currently not much going on really.
My 'new' Astra is nearly 3 years old and, apart from replace the stereo with a Pioneer touch screen effort, I;'ve not had to do anything to it - touch wood..!
And the wife has a 1999 Micra and that never goes wrong... oooh apart from me replacing the distributor last week - first thing in 6 years that anything's failed on it though.
A much welcomed excuse to get the tools out though.
3 1979 Mini Clubmans - various stuff that all classic mini owners will be aware of,:
replacing rear subframes, making new dashboards (and interior etc, etc), wheel bearings, engines, re-jetting carbs, swapping exhausts (LCB and RC40's) - pretty much standard Mini 'testbed' stuff really.
1995 Clio 1.4 RT:
Much fun was had with a sticking speedo needle. Somehow the clocks has twisted and it was fouling on the face of the clock itself. Fixed with a strategically placed 2" self tapping screw!!
.2002 Astra 1.6:
Diagnose then replace heater/air con control module after I'd over enthusiatically jet washed the engine and got water in it - god knows how as it's inside the inner wing...!
Replaced inlet manifold - internal flap was worn and making a racket.
Repalced exhaust manifold - the usual cracked Vauxhall thing.
Replaced interal heater re-circulation flap (and got finger stuck in it, right under the dashboard up against the bulkhead - queue reaching under car and throwing stones at house window trying to get attention, to no avail, as it was well and truly wedged in - eventually managed to reach for an extremely sharp multi-tool knife and cut round some plastic.
)Currently not much going on really.
My 'new' Astra is nearly 3 years old and, apart from replace the stereo with a Pioneer touch screen effort, I;'ve not had to do anything to it - touch wood..!
And the wife has a 1999 Micra and that never goes wrong... oooh apart from me replacing the distributor last week - first thing in 6 years that anything's failed on it though.
A much welcomed excuse to get the tools out though.
a 406 coupe 2.2 hdi.
I changed the crank pully, aux belt, tensioners and took about a week on and off. First time the crank bolt wasn't in correctly when i ran the engine, so had to do the job all over again.
Lots of fing thou.
I also remapped the 406 and 306, but it is easy once you have spent hours getting xp on windows 7.
I changed the crank pully, aux belt, tensioners and took about a week on and off. First time the crank bolt wasn't in correctly when i ran the engine, so had to do the job all over again.
Lots of fing thou.
I also remapped the 406 and 306, but it is easy once you have spent hours getting xp on windows 7.
Edited by The Spruce goose on Saturday 6th October 23:01
'There's the ramp, help yourself to my tools and give me a shout if you get stuck'
My mechanics standard response whenever I ask for any work to be done on my car. Or his comment that he wouldn't charge a penny for fitting the AP kit to my car because...
'It involves DTI's and that's engineering s
t which is your job 'cos you're an engineer so do it yourself!'
In fairness he did double check all my work and help with bleeding them as we both have a similar attitude to safety.
My mechanics standard response whenever I ask for any work to be done on my car. Or his comment that he wouldn't charge a penny for fitting the AP kit to my car because...
'It involves DTI's and that's engineering s
t which is your job 'cos you're an engineer so do it yourself!'In fairness he did double check all my work and help with bleeding them as we both have a similar attitude to safety.
Several jobs on my old e46, all common faults for the car starting with window regulator, upgraded steering wheel with newer model sports wheel, replaced general module 5(BMW wanted 660 quid, did it myself for 25 from scrapyard) and recently replaced the final stage resistor, all given me much more confidence!
As for the new car I've had most of the front end off and painted bottom grille which had faded and Clubsport lips which had been scuffed. Replaced telescopic part of headlight washer yesterday!
As for the new car I've had most of the front end off and painted bottom grille which had faded and Clubsport lips which had been scuffed. Replaced telescopic part of headlight washer yesterday!
'This component is dangerous and should only be handled by a trained BMW technician'
Therein lies a challenge to anyone.
My facelift E34 came with a very tatty Sports 2 steering wheel. This is the normal, small, three spoke airbag wheel found in E36, E34 and early E39 cars. The leather cover had split and peeled off in places making the interior look rubbish.
I had a look on EBay and found an E39 'bus' four spoke wheel complete with airbag and slip ring for next to nothing. Research revealed it would fit so it was purchased.
Anything airbag related is a five spanner job in a Haynes manual and they reccommend that it is left to the dealer. I decided to have a bash at it; disconnected battery and slip ring and got to work.
Once the old wheel was off I cannibalised the original wiring harness as it was in better condition and managed to fit the E39 wheel with no mishaps. The moment of truth came with re-connection of the battery and a turn of the key. The new air bag primed and the dashboard light went out. Complete success. I also have a unique E34; the bus wheel is generally derided so I can't imagine anyone else has made that mod.
It's amazing what one can accomplish with a toolkit and some patience.
Therein lies a challenge to anyone.
My facelift E34 came with a very tatty Sports 2 steering wheel. This is the normal, small, three spoke airbag wheel found in E36, E34 and early E39 cars. The leather cover had split and peeled off in places making the interior look rubbish.
I had a look on EBay and found an E39 'bus' four spoke wheel complete with airbag and slip ring for next to nothing. Research revealed it would fit so it was purchased.
Anything airbag related is a five spanner job in a Haynes manual and they reccommend that it is left to the dealer. I decided to have a bash at it; disconnected battery and slip ring and got to work.
Once the old wheel was off I cannibalised the original wiring harness as it was in better condition and managed to fit the E39 wheel with no mishaps. The moment of truth came with re-connection of the battery and a turn of the key. The new air bag primed and the dashboard light went out. Complete success. I also have a unique E34; the bus wheel is generally derided so I can't imagine anyone else has made that mod.
It's amazing what one can accomplish with a toolkit and some patience.
I had a punto a few years ago, which I left on the drive for a good few years. Anyway after uni I decid to get it back on the road. Freed up the brakes, changed the il, oil filter and coolant. MOT passed first time happy days.
Then a couple of months later one of the coolant pipes corroded through, water leaking everywhere.
Managed to get one delivered, fitted it successfully, I was bleeding the air out of the coolant and the plastic bleed nipple broke in two. Champion. So I got one and fitted that.
Couple of months later and I had a misfire. Sourced some coil packs and fitted them, worked a treat.
Then a week later the mysterious misfire returned. These engines are notorious for having a warped head when they overheat. Thought the worst of it, so took the plunge and ordered a head gasket set, bolts and a cambelt.
Whipped the head of and sure enough, the gasket had a break. The head looked ok so I skipped the skim and refitted everything.
Started perfectly first time. I was absolutely chuffed that a man with a few of his dads tools had managed to change a head gasket.
But - skipping the skim was a mistake. 3 weeks later and the misfire had returned!! My own fault I know - learned for good that "if you're going to do a job do it properly". Head gasket set ordered, head whipped off and taken for a skim. All back together, ran like it had never before!!!
Then sold it about 3 months later when I got the coupe!
Then a couple of months later one of the coolant pipes corroded through, water leaking everywhere.
Managed to get one delivered, fitted it successfully, I was bleeding the air out of the coolant and the plastic bleed nipple broke in two. Champion. So I got one and fitted that.
Couple of months later and I had a misfire. Sourced some coil packs and fitted them, worked a treat.
Then a week later the mysterious misfire returned. These engines are notorious for having a warped head when they overheat. Thought the worst of it, so took the plunge and ordered a head gasket set, bolts and a cambelt.
Whipped the head of and sure enough, the gasket had a break. The head looked ok so I skipped the skim and refitted everything.
Started perfectly first time. I was absolutely chuffed that a man with a few of his dads tools had managed to change a head gasket.
But - skipping the skim was a mistake. 3 weeks later and the misfire had returned!! My own fault I know - learned for good that "if you're going to do a job do it properly". Head gasket set ordered, head whipped off and taken for a skim. All back together, ran like it had never before!!!
Then sold it about 3 months later when I got the coupe!
On my old Renault Rti my sunroof packed up half open, I was told by a friend who was a main dealer mechanic that I would have to buy a complete unit at around £500 and then get it fitted or just do without the sunroof.
A second hand roof motor was sourced on eBay for £2 and a 10 minutes later and all was well.
Also I wanted the brabus turbo and temp gauges fitted to my roadster, and was told by the merc dealership that they would cost £260 plus it wouldn't be viable as my wiring loom would have to be renewed to take them and that would cost a kings ransom, somewhere in the region of £2000 if I remember.
I bought the gauges for £56 from a merc dealership in Germany and bought the wiring adapter which was a original factory fit for £15.
Ten minutes later the gauges were working spot on.
What do main dealers know lol, the Internet is a fantastic source for repairing cars.
A second hand roof motor was sourced on eBay for £2 and a 10 minutes later and all was well.
Also I wanted the brabus turbo and temp gauges fitted to my roadster, and was told by the merc dealership that they would cost £260 plus it wouldn't be viable as my wiring loom would have to be renewed to take them and that would cost a kings ransom, somewhere in the region of £2000 if I remember.
I bought the gauges for £56 from a merc dealership in Germany and bought the wiring adapter which was a original factory fit for £15.
Ten minutes later the gauges were working spot on.
What do main dealers know lol, the Internet is a fantastic source for repairing cars.
I'm always tinkering, but pretty pleased with my stripped, caged, yellow 250bhp Renault Fuego Turbo
My biggest success though (i hope) will be my (projected) 500bhp Renault 21 Turbo. Nothing off the shelf, no "internet resource", just me and my car and a lot of bespoke parts mostly beginning life as scribbles on a bit of paper in my living room.
8 years, it's taken so far.
My biggest success though (i hope) will be my (projected) 500bhp Renault 21 Turbo. Nothing off the shelf, no "internet resource", just me and my car and a lot of bespoke parts mostly beginning life as scribbles on a bit of paper in my living room.
8 years, it's taken so far.
Ever changed an alternator on a mk2 MR2? Right pain in the posterior, involved removing the whole exhaust system, lots of swearing and pride in a job jobbed.
I'm not majorly(sic?) mechanically minded but am currently considering servicing my boxsterS, think it needs new coils, sparks, filters and those cone thingies that stop oil leaking onto the sparks. Only thing that's really putting me off is accessability.
Probably end up buying the parts and turning up on my dad's doorstep
I'm not majorly(sic?) mechanically minded but am currently considering servicing my boxsterS, think it needs new coils, sparks, filters and those cone thingies that stop oil leaking onto the sparks. Only thing that's really putting me off is accessability.
Probably end up buying the parts and turning up on my dad's doorstep
Futuramic said:
Anything airbag related is a five spanner job in a Haynes manual and they reccommend that it is left to the dealer.
Five spanner? Pah, there's a few in mine that say "Not user servicable, do not dismantle".Needless to say they were very user serviceable after they met a drill and a hammer.
There was a time when I regarded working anywhere near AirBags as a definite no-no for this amateur spannerman. Not now, I upgrade steering wheels and AirBags like it's second nature to me using a few basic safety aspects.
On the cars I usually work on, mostly in my family, a couple of star drive bolts and a 19mm nut is all that is required to remove the Steering wheel and Airbag safely working carefully. I learnt by self teach 'how to' techniques on cars in a local breaker yard. Learn much that way without risk of damaging your own car in the process. Very useful and productive from many aspects are visits to breaker yards.
The cars some folks throw away for scrap here in the UK would command a much higher price and be more highly valued in other parts of the world. Us Brits have become very wasteful in recent years in so many ways.
By the way, my wife mentioned her brakes are making a funny noise on her MG recently. So much to do, so little time... but, I enjoy the work.
On the cars I usually work on, mostly in my family, a couple of star drive bolts and a 19mm nut is all that is required to remove the Steering wheel and Airbag safely working carefully. I learnt by self teach 'how to' techniques on cars in a local breaker yard. Learn much that way without risk of damaging your own car in the process. Very useful and productive from many aspects are visits to breaker yards.
The cars some folks throw away for scrap here in the UK would command a much higher price and be more highly valued in other parts of the world. Us Brits have become very wasteful in recent years in so many ways.
By the way, my wife mentioned her brakes are making a funny noise on her MG recently. So much to do, so little time... but, I enjoy the work.
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