RE: You Know You Want To: Nissan 350Z
Discussion
Had mine for almost 5 years now and still loving it. Currently has 130k miles on the clock, of which i have done 60k (its now used as a weeekend toy).
Only ever had to change standard items (although strangely im yet to go through a clutch? Must be the motorway miles I was doing). The the last 10k miles have been supercharged to 351whp.
Next step is a re-built engine and bigger charger.
Only ever had to change standard items (although strangely im yet to go through a clutch? Must be the motorway miles I was doing). The the last 10k miles have been supercharged to 351whp.
Next step is a re-built engine and bigger charger.
Can't believe that model's 10 years old now.The biggest issue I have is explaining that it's not an automatic it's a tiptronic!
If you're around Surrey I'll take you round the block.
I've been looking a Zeds for a while and wondered what the auto version is like (can't drive a manual these days) and was sizing one up against the Audi TT mark I 3.2 DSG. Any issues to be aware of? (I know it was a JDM option only etc but I've seen a very nice specced one on Auotrader)
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If you're around Surrey I'll take you round the block.
I've been looking a Zeds for a while and wondered what the auto version is like (can't drive a manual these days) and was sizing one up against the Audi TT mark I 3.2 DSG. Any issues to be aware of? (I know it was a JDM option only etc but I've seen a very nice specced one on Auotrader)
[/quote]
I'd say it were a GT car and good at what it does but I do wish it were lighter as it would benefit massively. I've had mine from new in 2008 and have sorted out my main issues with the car but some remain.
First thing to be changed should be the tyres - be it RE050 (OE on my 313 car) or the 040's they're crap in the UK - too hard and rubbish outside of California IMO, I run Goodyear F1 Antisymmetric tyres which allow you to navigate junctions in the wet without the traction control leaving you stranded in front of a bus. The next thing are the brake pads and braided lines / fluid to sharpen up the brake feel which is crap as standard (pads made the biggest difference and I use Ferodo DS). Next are dampers, £500 ish for a set of Bilsteins transforms the car!! I've also got front, centre and rear chassis bracing (too expensive for the benefit and not the best over speedbumps + annoying that the front brace required the sump shield to be lowered, especially as the Bilsteins make the ride more compliant on the bumpy stuff but reduce body roll - truly awesome for UK B road adventures - though with all this I still suffer the independent version of axle tramp when starting off with any haste over rough ground, this is not a feature which should be present with modern suspension) and I've got a pair of K&N filters and a Miltek exhaust which was required to fit with the centre brace and lends a bass tone which is nice but different to the standard exhaust's higher tune - which has merits!
The car is still too heavy for DS2500 pads under hard use but adequate to good for road use (I had to give in and cool them for 20 mins in the alps while using the DS2500 pads and standard fluid as I didn't enjoy losing my brakes heading towards a hairpin with a 50m sheer drop). The clutch also has trouble negotiating successive 1st gear hairpins but that was down to the fluid boiling and resolved itself after 30 mins of cooling time.
The only parts I've had to replace are a balljoint, a seized rear damper bush and brakes - the alloy under the stainless steel brake pad slider oxidised seizing the pads (bad Brembo design) and the brake discs unseat themselves as the hubs are not made of the best steel thus the mating surface oxidises and distorts after a year or so or 10K miles. It took me a couple of pairs of discs to realise that as I automatically assumed my discs were slightly out and was causing a shimmy braking from 90 - 70 so I replaced them.
Mine is fully and regularly rustproofed etc and fed super unleaded as specified by Nissan - she returns about 25mpg with a lot of town driving and A / B road driving - nearing 30mpg on slower journies and motorway work and the worst I've seen on the instantaneous reading is 13.8mpg which was cold and in heavy City traffic. She'd be better with a plate diff and there are a few remaps available which would add to the pleasure - a £400 cost I would like to acquaint myself with. It's not a sports car though and sometimes it seems the standard mapping decides not want to give you the full power and sometimes it seems like there's a wad of torque more than that specified in the mid range!! I think that's down to the cam timing advancing / retarding by the ECU but it doesn't always inspire confidence in the weapon.
I am always considering swapping to an AM Vantage but the only one which could match it is the full Pro-drive and what I have may not look as good but it's 90% the car!! And it's been a great car to own and run!
Don't get one if you value putting anything in the boot - check the space out before you purchase, I've a tonneau cover fitted too (which in Nissan speak is a partition between the rear chassis strut brace and the small boot area) which reduces effective area but increases security.
The seats could be more supportive too - and lighter!! And the high beam light is the most annoying feature when the dash lights are turned down for improved night visibility but easily sorted by strategically placed stickers or paint etc... I don't appreciate electric seats either.. The seat position is OK but not great for anyone over 6' tall with average length legs.
The gearbox is a b
h in 1st and 2nd when cold but good once warm - just be careful when cold as I've heard stories of synchro failure on 2nd. It's a box which needs a "positive" shift to make the best of it and the pedals need adjusting to optimise the heel toe action.
First thing to be changed should be the tyres - be it RE050 (OE on my 313 car) or the 040's they're crap in the UK - too hard and rubbish outside of California IMO, I run Goodyear F1 Antisymmetric tyres which allow you to navigate junctions in the wet without the traction control leaving you stranded in front of a bus. The next thing are the brake pads and braided lines / fluid to sharpen up the brake feel which is crap as standard (pads made the biggest difference and I use Ferodo DS). Next are dampers, £500 ish for a set of Bilsteins transforms the car!! I've also got front, centre and rear chassis bracing (too expensive for the benefit and not the best over speedbumps + annoying that the front brace required the sump shield to be lowered, especially as the Bilsteins make the ride more compliant on the bumpy stuff but reduce body roll - truly awesome for UK B road adventures - though with all this I still suffer the independent version of axle tramp when starting off with any haste over rough ground, this is not a feature which should be present with modern suspension) and I've got a pair of K&N filters and a Miltek exhaust which was required to fit with the centre brace and lends a bass tone which is nice but different to the standard exhaust's higher tune - which has merits!
The car is still too heavy for DS2500 pads under hard use but adequate to good for road use (I had to give in and cool them for 20 mins in the alps while using the DS2500 pads and standard fluid as I didn't enjoy losing my brakes heading towards a hairpin with a 50m sheer drop). The clutch also has trouble negotiating successive 1st gear hairpins but that was down to the fluid boiling and resolved itself after 30 mins of cooling time.
The only parts I've had to replace are a balljoint, a seized rear damper bush and brakes - the alloy under the stainless steel brake pad slider oxidised seizing the pads (bad Brembo design) and the brake discs unseat themselves as the hubs are not made of the best steel thus the mating surface oxidises and distorts after a year or so or 10K miles. It took me a couple of pairs of discs to realise that as I automatically assumed my discs were slightly out and was causing a shimmy braking from 90 - 70 so I replaced them.
Mine is fully and regularly rustproofed etc and fed super unleaded as specified by Nissan - she returns about 25mpg with a lot of town driving and A / B road driving - nearing 30mpg on slower journies and motorway work and the worst I've seen on the instantaneous reading is 13.8mpg which was cold and in heavy City traffic. She'd be better with a plate diff and there are a few remaps available which would add to the pleasure - a £400 cost I would like to acquaint myself with. It's not a sports car though and sometimes it seems the standard mapping decides not want to give you the full power and sometimes it seems like there's a wad of torque more than that specified in the mid range!! I think that's down to the cam timing advancing / retarding by the ECU but it doesn't always inspire confidence in the weapon.
I am always considering swapping to an AM Vantage but the only one which could match it is the full Pro-drive and what I have may not look as good but it's 90% the car!! And it's been a great car to own and run!
Don't get one if you value putting anything in the boot - check the space out before you purchase, I've a tonneau cover fitted too (which in Nissan speak is a partition between the rear chassis strut brace and the small boot area) which reduces effective area but increases security.
The seats could be more supportive too - and lighter!! And the high beam light is the most annoying feature when the dash lights are turned down for improved night visibility but easily sorted by strategically placed stickers or paint etc... I don't appreciate electric seats either.. The seat position is OK but not great for anyone over 6' tall with average length legs.
The gearbox is a b
h in 1st and 2nd when cold but good once warm - just be careful when cold as I've heard stories of synchro failure on 2nd. It's a box which needs a "positive" shift to make the best of it and the pedals need adjusting to optimise the heel toe action.In true PH style, I did want to. So as a direct result of the article, I am now the proud owner or an Ultra Yellow GT4 Zed. Leggy, but with plenty of history, single owner and a bag of character. I'm really looking forward to my trip to West Wales this weekend.... So flash if you see me. I'll be the one with the massive grin.
Smitters said:
In true PH style, I did want to. So as a direct result of the article, I am now the proud owner or an Ultra Yellow GT4 Zed. Leggy, but with plenty of history, single owner and a bag of character. I'm really looking forward to my trip to West Wales this weekend.... So flash if you see me. I'll be the one with the massive grin.
Nice work! Would love to have a look/ride to take me back down memory lane if ever you are near to the mighty Swindon!ZesPak said:
I was wondering, I've not yet had the pleasure to hear these on full chat. How do they sound?
As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
Ours has a standard exhaust which is blowing a bit and has been getting gradually louder since we got it. It got through a recent MOT with it like this, with just an advisory about a small leak, but we will have to do something with it soon. Trouble is that the mrs likes it how it is, so I guess I will have to fit something aftermarket!As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
Anyway, this is how it sounds;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2W7eUZJMWrk
ZesPak said:
I was wondering, I've not yet had the pleasure to hear these on full chat. How do they sound?
As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
Not disputing, but I love how ever Brit seems to think a V6 2 seat Jap sports GT is a muscle car As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
ZesPak said:
I was wondering, I've not yet had the pleasure to hear these on full chat. How do they sound?
As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
Dunno if this will work but this is mine.As, to me, they do fill a bit the "muscle car" gap, with a (relatively) big engine, beefy looks, cruiser lay-out, I do wonder how they sound.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn3jdx1ObH0&fe...
If not try this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn3jdx1ObH0
If not give me a shout (I can't browse YT at work and so can't test the link), I have a better one I can share with you.
300bhp/ton said:
Not disputing, but I love how ever Brit seems to think a V6 2 seat Jap sports GT is a muscle car
If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
Not disputing, but I'm not a Brit, and yes, I would compare this to a modern-day muscle car, as running costs, weight, engine size and general looks/practicality does put it in that category for me.If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
There are hundreds of "definitions" of "muscle car" though, so I see your point.
TameRacingDriver said:
ZesPak said:
300bhp/ton said:
Not disputing, but I love how ever Brit seems to think a V6 2 seat Jap sports GT is a muscle car
If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
Not disputing, but I'm not a Brit, and yes, I would compare this to a modern-day muscle car, as running costs, weight, engine size and general looks/practicality does put it in that category for me.If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
There are hundreds of "definitions" of "muscle car" though, so I see your point.
I'd probably say it's more of a GT car myself. People go on about spending tons of money to turn it into a sharper tool, but its missing the point IMHO, the S2000 makes a much better sports car out of the box IMO. Its lighter, revvier, and is designed for the job.
I think a muscle car would always have more than two seats, for one thing. Maybe that's just my impression of it. However, on the basic theme of big engine in a small car, I see the point.
Mine is on a standard exhaust and on the inside, it's pretty muted, with the majority of the noise being tyre based, but if you give it the beans, there is a very distinct V6 there. Mine goes to 7k and sounds quite thrashy, but I've been comparing it to an A4 TDi and a 1400 Caterham, so it's a different beast. Standing outside however on tickover, it's surprisingly throaty and if revved, there's a cheeky burble on the over-run. I can certainly see why people want to uprate the exhaust for aural reasons, but I imagine it has to be done very carefully if you're wanting to keep friendly with the neighbours and avoid looking like a fugitive of the Fast and Furious films.
Mine is on a standard exhaust and on the inside, it's pretty muted, with the majority of the noise being tyre based, but if you give it the beans, there is a very distinct V6 there. Mine goes to 7k and sounds quite thrashy, but I've been comparing it to an A4 TDi and a 1400 Caterham, so it's a different beast. Standing outside however on tickover, it's surprisingly throaty and if revved, there's a cheeky burble on the over-run. I can certainly see why people want to uprate the exhaust for aural reasons, but I imagine it has to be done very carefully if you're wanting to keep friendly with the neighbours and avoid looking like a fugitive of the Fast and Furious films.
stephen300o said:
I define a muscle car as a four seat V8 powered American car.
There are other definitions - this one only has "American" in common with yours.http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/muscle%2...
"any of a group of American-made 2-door sports coupes with powerful engines designed for high-performance driving"
Personally, I would define it for what it does rather than what it is or where it is made, so I would go for;
"Makes a great noise, quick in a straight line, doesn't matter if otherwise a bit s
t"TameRacingDriver said:
ZesPak said:
300bhp/ton said:
Not disputing, but I love how ever Brit seems to think a V6 2 seat Jap sports GT is a muscle car
If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
Not disputing, but I'm not a Brit, and yes, I would compare this to a modern-day muscle car, as running costs, weight, engine size and general looks/practicality does put it in that category for me.If you ran up a check list of what a muscle car is the 350z would score zero unless you gave it a bonus point for having 4 wheels.
There are hundreds of "definitions" of "muscle car" though, so I see your point.
I'd probably say it's more of a GT car myself. People go on about spending tons of money to turn it into a sharper tool, but its missing the point IMHO, the S2000 makes a much better sports car out of the box IMO. Its lighter, revvier, and is designed for the job.
As a rule it's a given that a muscle car has more than 2 seats. Most Amercian's won't consider a Vette or Viper a muscle car for instance.
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