RE: Mini Cooper S (R53): PH Buying Guide
Discussion
s m said:
Matt UK said:
I stuck some 15's with winter tyres on my R53 MCS back in Dec.
Suits me to the point that I still haven't put the 17's back on...
Have you got the Imolas? They're very lightweight compared to the run of the mill 17 S-spokesSuits me to the point that I still haven't put the 17's back on...
mnkiboy said:
Is the R56 really much faster than the R53? I haven't driven an R56 but i'm guessing it has more low down torque due to the turbo. It might feel quicker at 2000rpm but ultimately I don't think there would be much in it.
I don't have the figures to hand and could be completely wrong though!
Autocar tested an R56, albeit in greasy conditionsI don't have the figures to hand and could be completely wrong though!
They didn't test the 170bhp engine in the R53 ( apart from a convertible ) but EVO got some figures in a group test
I briefly owned a 200bhp JCW. I liked the car, thought it was nice to drive but as a hot hatch it was missing something. It didn't feel as fast as it actually was. I put this down to the Supercharger. It's the 1st SC'd car i'd owned. I'm not a fan of the linear power delivery. I'd rather the power came in with a surge turbo style or was more peaky n/a style. It felt boring to drive.
I once had a run against an EK9 Civic Type-R, rolling start up to well over 3 figures. It was neck and neck, as the figures would suggest it should be. I've owned an EK9 and much prefered the peaky nature of the engine.
Owned an '03 S for a few years now, all in all its been the most reliable car ever owned.
I disagree they are tinny, it still feels a pretty solid and well screwed together car at 10 years old. Try saying that about any other supermini from 2003. Agree with everyone saying ditch the runflats, big improvement.
163bhp feels quite slow now though, and after a shot in a 2013 JCW the newer ones are quite an improvement. But stick a JCW kit or similar and bigger brake kit on an R53 and it would be much closer.
I disagree they are tinny, it still feels a pretty solid and well screwed together car at 10 years old. Try saying that about any other supermini from 2003. Agree with everyone saying ditch the runflats, big improvement.
163bhp feels quite slow now though, and after a shot in a 2013 JCW the newer ones are quite an improvement. But stick a JCW kit or similar and bigger brake kit on an R53 and it would be much closer.
FivePotTurbo said:
Owned an '03 S for a few years now, all in all its been the most reliable car ever owned.
I disagree they are tinny, it still feels a pretty solid and well screwed together car at 10 years old. Try saying that about any other supermini from 2003. Agree with everyone saying ditch the runflats, big improvement.
163bhp feels quite slow now though, and after a shot in a 2013 JCW the newer ones are quite an improvement. But stick a JCW kit or similar and bigger brake kit on an R53 and it would be much closer.
Could just say map the R56 JCW though and your then 260bhp+ ish.I disagree they are tinny, it still feels a pretty solid and well screwed together car at 10 years old. Try saying that about any other supermini from 2003. Agree with everyone saying ditch the runflats, big improvement.
163bhp feels quite slow now though, and after a shot in a 2013 JCW the newer ones are quite an improvement. But stick a JCW kit or similar and bigger brake kit on an R53 and it would be much closer.
I owned a facelift 04 Cooper S Works in Hyper Blue (amazing colour!) until the end of last year. Brilliant car only had a few small niggles with some dodgy air sensors. The sound was amazing and proper pops & bangs on the overrun, not slightly faked by the later models. In my biased opinion still the best 'new' Mini of the lot.
I've been in all types of MINI's and used to sell them as well. I'm still very involved with them daily. The R56 is superior in nearly every way. The R53 is just too old now and too old tech. It also has a lot more issues, slower and too much recon when we get them in and we usually just auction them. Get an R56 everytime.
Couple of years ago I bought an FSH 56k 03 Cooper S in Hyper Blue, Chili Pack, white roof and white 17 inch wheels. Looked great but unfortunately as soon as I got it home the problems started.
Got the car home checked the oil and the dipstick snapped off in the tube.....
First drive on the motorway overtaking a lorry the car pulled violently to the left almost ending in tears...
Air con didn't work, electric mirrors didn't work, CD player was foocked. Out of these I checked the air con which on the cold day I drove it seemed fine, just not on the hot days.
Cut a long story short £1500 later the car was sorted. Needed brakes, a new (recon compressor) and the pulling to the left problem was due to bizarrely only one of the bushes being replaced previously so they needed doing. A few other smaller bits were needed.
So a bit of a lemon and a lesson learnt, a great little car once sorted though, like a little Tarmac rally car.
Just do your homework.
Got the car home checked the oil and the dipstick snapped off in the tube.....
First drive on the motorway overtaking a lorry the car pulled violently to the left almost ending in tears...
Air con didn't work, electric mirrors didn't work, CD player was foocked. Out of these I checked the air con which on the cold day I drove it seemed fine, just not on the hot days.
Cut a long story short £1500 later the car was sorted. Needed brakes, a new (recon compressor) and the pulling to the left problem was due to bizarrely only one of the bushes being replaced previously so they needed doing. A few other smaller bits were needed.
So a bit of a lemon and a lesson learnt, a great little car once sorted though, like a little Tarmac rally car.
Just do your homework.
Yes I had an 05 Hyper Blue with the Bullet alloys. Never had any problems with it for the 3 years I owned it. It never felt particularly quick to me but the handling was superb. The hard ride done for me in the end so got a R56 JCW which was a bit more comfortable but still firm. Glad to see they've implemented my recommendation of adaptive suspension on the new one 
3795mpower said:
the R56 has too much air in the arches.
They look great when lowered on coilovers 
Had a tuned R53 for almost 8 years, absolutely loved it, no major problems at all, took it to quite a few rwyb at santa pod & track days to Brands Hatch, didn't miss a beat.
End of last year it was time for a change, always loved the look of the Clubman (R55), got a fairly good deal on a FJCW model, very similar power out of the box to the R53, much more refined all round though, more toys etc etc. It's been modded too, like the R53 I just have to put my own stamp on my cars
Both great cars imo & I'll always have a soft spot for the R53, that 'charger whine is very addictive, but the Clubby makes some good noises too..
Wife bought a One in 2003 and replaced it with one of the first batch of R56 Coopers in December 2006 - the R53 was great but the R56 so much better.
However she specced her One with a spacesaver instead of run-flats, so if you do ditch the runflats on an R53 I imagine you could buy a spacesaver for some peace of mind.
She opted for the upgraded stereo on the R53 which was OK, but the HK upgrade on the R56 was vastly superior.
I enjoyed borrowing them; although I deliberately chose RWD for my cars I found the Minis really entertaining.
However she specced her One with a spacesaver instead of run-flats, so if you do ditch the runflats on an R53 I imagine you could buy a spacesaver for some peace of mind.
She opted for the upgraded stereo on the R53 which was OK, but the HK upgrade on the R56 was vastly superior.
I enjoyed borrowing them; although I deliberately chose RWD for my cars I found the Minis really entertaining.
I see there are a few errors in this and things not warned about. I've owned MINI's since 2001. I owned the first Works customer car, a Cooper, from 2001 to 2006 and an R53 Cooper S from 2005 to present.
Two things first, power steering pump and wiper motor on pre face lift cars. If there's no evidence of these being replaced walk away. Both of these items fail on ALL pre face lift cars (and some face lift models too). They are replaced with better quality items.
Water in boot, this usually comes from the high level brake light seal.
When checking the car when you turn the ignition it displays a countdown to the next service and which one it is (Oil, Inspection I, or II) in the display on the speedo. Push the trip reset button to switch this to the brake fluid change countdown. The servicing interval automatically adjusts depending on how the car is driven, the brake fluid change is a straight countdown of 2 years. Incidentally every second fluid change you should have a coolant change.
Errors in the article: Brake pads wear evenly. Nope, rear pads normally wear first (if all pads are replaced at the same time). MINI's have an unusually even brake bias to aid turn in under braking (adding to that go kart handling). Because the rear pads are much smaller, it means they wear quicker than most other cars when added with the more even brake bias.
Little extras: Hold both buttons on the clock to switch between 24 and 12 hour clock. You can also push the trip reset button to switch the clock on when the keys are out of the ignition.
Two things first, power steering pump and wiper motor on pre face lift cars. If there's no evidence of these being replaced walk away. Both of these items fail on ALL pre face lift cars (and some face lift models too). They are replaced with better quality items.
Water in boot, this usually comes from the high level brake light seal.
When checking the car when you turn the ignition it displays a countdown to the next service and which one it is (Oil, Inspection I, or II) in the display on the speedo. Push the trip reset button to switch this to the brake fluid change countdown. The servicing interval automatically adjusts depending on how the car is driven, the brake fluid change is a straight countdown of 2 years. Incidentally every second fluid change you should have a coolant change.
Errors in the article: Brake pads wear evenly. Nope, rear pads normally wear first (if all pads are replaced at the same time). MINI's have an unusually even brake bias to aid turn in under braking (adding to that go kart handling). Because the rear pads are much smaller, it means they wear quicker than most other cars when added with the more even brake bias.
Little extras: Hold both buttons on the clock to switch between 24 and 12 hour clock. You can also push the trip reset button to switch the clock on when the keys are out of the ignition.
Root Ginger said:
I see there are a few errors in this and things not warned about. I've owned MINI's since 2001. I owned the first Works customer car, a Cooper, from 2001 to 2006 and an R53 Cooper S from 2005 to present.
Two things first, power steering pump and wiper motor on pre face lift cars. If there's no evidence of these being replaced walk away. Both of these items fail on ALL pre face lift cars (and some face lift models too). They are replaced with better quality items.
Water in boot, this usually comes from the high level brake light seal.
When checking the car when you turn the ignition it displays a countdown to the next service and which one it is (Oil, Inspection I, or II) in the display on the speedo. Push the trip reset button to switch this to the brake fluid change countdown. The servicing interval automatically adjusts depending on how the car is driven, the brake fluid change is a straight countdown of 2 years. Incidentally every second fluid change you should have a coolant change.
Errors in the article: Brake pads wear evenly. Nope, rear pads normally wear first (if all pads are replaced at the same time). MINI's have an unusually even brake bias to aid turn in under braking (adding to that go kart handling). Because the rear pads are much smaller, it means they wear quicker than most other cars when added with the more even brake bias.
Little extras: Hold both buttons on the clock to switch between 24 and 12 hour clock. You can also push the trip reset button to switch the clock on when the keys are out of the ignition.
Thanks for this Two things first, power steering pump and wiper motor on pre face lift cars. If there's no evidence of these being replaced walk away. Both of these items fail on ALL pre face lift cars (and some face lift models too). They are replaced with better quality items.
Water in boot, this usually comes from the high level brake light seal.
When checking the car when you turn the ignition it displays a countdown to the next service and which one it is (Oil, Inspection I, or II) in the display on the speedo. Push the trip reset button to switch this to the brake fluid change countdown. The servicing interval automatically adjusts depending on how the car is driven, the brake fluid change is a straight countdown of 2 years. Incidentally every second fluid change you should have a coolant change.
Errors in the article: Brake pads wear evenly. Nope, rear pads normally wear first (if all pads are replaced at the same time). MINI's have an unusually even brake bias to aid turn in under braking (adding to that go kart handling). Because the rear pads are much smaller, it means they wear quicker than most other cars when added with the more even brake bias.
Little extras: Hold both buttons on the clock to switch between 24 and 12 hour clock. You can also push the trip reset button to switch the clock on when the keys are out of the ignition.
I never drove the first one - but we had the second gen Cooper S and then a JCW. Ragged them like you wouldn't believe and they both survived. And the JCW was SOOO much better.
But - the company we were with had a fair few 'S' and each one seemed to feel different in the power stakes. Our S was great, but we tried later ones that felt very flat hence the move to the JCW. Maybe we just run them in with the appropriate level of thrashing, but I don't know if that feeling of lethargy was for real.
But - the company we were with had a fair few 'S' and each one seemed to feel different in the power stakes. Our S was great, but we tried later ones that felt very flat hence the move to the JCW. Maybe we just run them in with the appropriate level of thrashing, but I don't know if that feeling of lethargy was for real.
Numeric said:
I never drove the first one - but we had the second gen Cooper S and then a JCW. Ragged them like you wouldn't believe and they both survived. And the JCW was SOOO much better.
But - the company we were with had a fair few 'S' and each one seemed to feel different in the power stakes. Our S was great, but we tried later ones that felt very flat hence the move to the JCW. Maybe we just run them in with the appropriate level of thrashing, but I don't know if that feeling of lethargy was for real.
Its a well known problem with the 1.6T engine that they coke up because of the direct injection.But - the company we were with had a fair few 'S' and each one seemed to feel different in the power stakes. Our S was great, but we tried later ones that felt very flat hence the move to the JCW. Maybe we just run them in with the appropriate level of thrashing, but I don't know if that feeling of lethargy was for real.
There are various cleaning kits available to sort it out but in the mean time it can sap serious power.
I really have become a fan of the Cooper S.
My missus picked up a 2006 specimen last September for the winter (1M tucked away) with only 11k on the clock.
Apart from the paint being a tad swirly and two minor kerb marks from the previous owner the car is as new. The interior is totally unmarked.
3k miles later it's now officially a keeper. Ditched the runflats and stuck a Milltek on.
Now for a good detail and maybe a set of nice alloys and that's it.
7 years old, looks and drives as new, just the right level of power/ handling for a runabout, classless motoring and no fear of leaving it parked anywhere.
Pity it's a tad sore on the fuel and RFL costs but it's a hoot to drive.
My missus picked up a 2006 specimen last September for the winter (1M tucked away) with only 11k on the clock.
Apart from the paint being a tad swirly and two minor kerb marks from the previous owner the car is as new. The interior is totally unmarked.
3k miles later it's now officially a keeper. Ditched the runflats and stuck a Milltek on.
Now for a good detail and maybe a set of nice alloys and that's it.
7 years old, looks and drives as new, just the right level of power/ handling for a runabout, classless motoring and no fear of leaving it parked anywhere.
Pity it's a tad sore on the fuel and RFL costs but it's a hoot to drive.
I currently have a very late model R53 FJCW. The car has every option imaginable including the great LSD and the Harmon Kardon system, Recaros etc. I had to sell my e60 M5 to invest in a new business venture and was very much mourning that car until this little rally car came into my life. The car has so much character and is such a great drive.
It is definitely a keeper, after coming from a car like the M5 of course the overall speed isn't as great, but the sense of speed and the handling are second to none. The car is quicker in daily driving and keeps up with much faster cars on the road (having played with a few caymans and some confused VXR boy racers!!). The engine although old tech makes a fantastic noise and feels like a mini M engine (no pun intended), making power right through the rev range and most at home towards the red line! Every car has it's foibles, but none do so with so much character. Attached is a picture of my car Rory as we call him. I implore anyone to try one and not come back with a huge smile on their face, a true classless car that feels like a modern classic already!![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/2CXHTxCS.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/mFthGsPw" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/mFthGsPw.jpg)
It is definitely a keeper, after coming from a car like the M5 of course the overall speed isn't as great, but the sense of speed and the handling are second to none. The car is quicker in daily driving and keeps up with much faster cars on the road (having played with a few caymans and some confused VXR boy racers!!). The engine although old tech makes a fantastic noise and feels like a mini M engine (no pun intended), making power right through the rev range and most at home towards the red line! Every car has it's foibles, but none do so with so much character. Attached is a picture of my car Rory as we call him. I implore anyone to try one and not come back with a huge smile on their face, a true classless car that feels like a modern classic already!
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