2007 Discovery 3 - would you?

2007 Discovery 3 - would you?

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Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Sunday 17th September 2017
quotequote all
Looking to replace our A6 and would need a good tow car due to our twin axle caravan.

Looking at Disco 3's. Never having owned a 4x4, are these worth considering at 10 years old ?

For example:

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...

Any advice greatly appreciated!

We've had our A6 Avant (3.0 TDI Quattro) for over 5 years and it's been great. Just worrying about a few big things going wrong now though so want to get rid. Will I be jumping from the frying pan into the fire?!


Summit_Detailing

1,889 posts

193 months

Sunday 17th September 2017
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I took the plunge on a 2007 TDV6, with 103k in SE spec, with lots of factory option boxes ticked a couple of months ago.

I too was a little wary but finding/buying one with proper history and ideally some invoices to show other mechanical items have been replaced dampened my fears.

The car I bought had invoices for the usual weaknesses, air suspension compressor, EGR's, ARB bushes etc + cambelts changed last year etc.

Having driven a few in my search it was clear this one had been looked after - it drove noticeably better and the condition was excellent, in fact better than one being sold at the same independent dealer which was 2yrs newer with 40k miles less on the clock.

Since purchasing I've not had any issues, only spending money on accessories and little upgrades from PowerfulUK.

2x Pirelli's fitted to the front as the independent I purchased from had fitted some budgets which doesn't sit well with me.

I don't know what everyone else is getting in terms of consumption but I'm getting 28.1 (fuel app, not dash) over 1700 miles since I picked the car up.

I'm really enjoying the car so far so I'd recommend one providing you find a nice one.

cheers

Chris

p.s I purchased from Coopers who seem to sell a fair few & certainly know their way around them and were open in explaining the positives and negatives to the model.
I have no affiliation with the above, just a good buying experience.
https://www.facebook.com/Cooperscarssouthwestltd/

Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Sunday 17th September 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply!

Sounds like a similar car to the one I linked to above, that has had some serious money spent on it and looks lovely.

Would you mind saying how much you paid?


Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Sunday 17th September 2017
quotequote all
So, if I was to go and look at one, are there any particular things I should be looking for?

Thanks all in advance.

clarkey

1,365 posts

284 months

Monday 18th September 2017
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I've had mine since October 2011 - bought with 70,000 miles, now on about 160,000. We intend to keep it until it dies!
I used to do quite a few miles in it. It was expensive to run like that. For the last few years my wife has used it and it has cost next to nothing to run.

A number of things have come up more than once!

Stuck bonnet catch - 4 or 5 times
Air-con leaks - given up now
Parking brake replacement/adjustment
Ride height sensors (once)
Pads/disks a couple of times, plus one calliper
Air suspension compressor (once)
Front lower and upper wishbones
ARB links
various suspension bushes and ball joints
Front diff
Alternator (one so far, needs another)
Wheel bearings

Don't expect it to be cheap to run. Costs for me in 90,000 miles:

Fuel - 26mpg overall. However, I used to average 29mpg, the wife averages 22mpg (short journeys)
Fixes and maintenance - £9,000
MOT - £340
Regular servicing - £3,500
Tyres - £1,600

Depreciation - about £10,000

So just over 50ppm I reckon in total.

About £14,500 in 9 years, but it is due some further costs - service, new disks and pads on the front (third set in my ownership), a new alternator (second), and a torque convertor at some point. This is probably worth doing as I have no idea what I would replace it with as the cost to change would be stupid.

I would only buy with absolutely complete service history, and don't be put off my higher mileage - my doesn't really drive any differently now compared to 7 years ago.





Edited by clarkey on Monday 18th September 18:17


Edited by clarkey on Monday 18th September 22:19


Edited by clarkey on Wednesday 20th September 07:38

LaserTam

2,108 posts

219 months

Monday 18th September 2017
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If you haven't already, take a look on the disco3.co.uk forum, loads of info

Alicatt1

805 posts

195 months

Monday 18th September 2017
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My son drives a 2007 D3, his main complaint about them has been that he has had to replace the wheel bearings 3 times in the last 3 years, I'm still on the original ones on my TDV8 Range Rover Sport which underneath is basically the same car.

The other problem is the fit of the detachable tow hook, over here it won't pass the vehicle inspection, and is too low in height for a standard trailer hitch height. he has had to fit a fixed hitch for it to pass the test. Now you can get an adjustable height hitch that fits in the detachable hitch mount.

Apart from that the car has been quite reliable - it has been chipped but it still is not quite as fast as the TDV8 RRS.

As a tow vehicle he uses it in his steel construction business for towing up to 3.5tonnes of material, and at that it is very good at doing.

Steviesam

1,243 posts

134 months

Tuesday 19th September 2017
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Wheel bearings are common at 70-90k, but people make the mistake of replacing with cheap ones.

ONLY use the Timken, they will last another 80k miles (usually). The cheap ones can breakdown in a matter of months!

Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Tuesday 19th September 2017
quotequote all
Thanks guys, some great info.

Definitely not a purchase to rush into! That disco3 forum is great, I'll be keeping my eyes on the for sale board.

bakerstreet

4,761 posts

165 months

Tuesday 19th September 2017
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Rosscow said:
Thanks guys, some great info.

Definitely not a purchase to rush into! That disco3 forum is great, I'll be keeping my eyes on the for sale board.
I would also recommend the Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Group on Facebook. Filled with the same people that use the forums. Its invite only smile

As others may have said, this is one of those vehicles that you MUST do you research. I can't emphasise this enough. Budget £1000-1500 on maintenance and I'm afraid mileage isn't that relevant. Mine has 179k on it (Bought with 168) and its cost less to run than other D3s with half the mileage.

If you read enough on these cars and you are of a nervous disposition, then you probably won't (Shouldn't) buy one. I'm just being honest.

If you have the cash, then try and stretch to a D4. Land Rover had learned a lot by then.

06> onwards cars are usually cheaper than <06 because of the road tax. I know this is odd, but that is how the used market works.

I'm not going to list everything to check, but here are a few pointers and don't believe that buying a car from a forum member will be a sign that all will be perfect (why do you think they are selling it?!?)

- Compressor. If its on the original, then chances are it will fal. Buget £100 for a rebuild kit a few hours work or do it properly and replace with an AMK for £700 all in (All Track 4x4 is a forum favourite)
- Tyres (Fooking expensive if you want something decent) Budget £600 fitted.
- Glow plugs. Do some reading on that. If they are fooked, you need to be prepared for a £2k bill to replace them.
- Gearbox (Any fluctuating on the rev counter means that the TC is on its way out, which is highly likely on any D3 due to their age. Budget £1k to replace it and £3 if its fooked the box. Most people throw some Dr Tranny in there and hope for the best.
- Cambelt and oil pump is every 7 years or 105k and it costs about £600-700 all in.

There are some good sides.

In my opinion it will go down in history as an icon of Land Rover design. Yes the D5 is selling like hot cakes, but the die hards prefer the d3 design for its purity and practicality,

It is incredibly comfortable and spacious. If we have to travel long distance it is our go to choice and even my wife agrees with that.

The engine has all the modern diesel issues, but it is super smooth and has a decent amount of torque.

It is amazing off road, especially when you consider how heavy it is.

Parts are cheap. Want a pair of V8 brake discs, that will be £25 each and they are huge. 320mm if memory serves. Think I paid £6 for an air filter last year.

There is also a fountain of knowledge out there on the forums and the FB group which is very useful when you want to fix things your self.


A.J.M

7,901 posts

186 months

Tuesday 19th September 2017
quotequote all
As above really with a couple of tweaks.

Bearmach sell the AMk compressor with covers for £325ish. The original compressor is a Hitachi, and is st. the AMK is fitted to the D4 and is much better in design and longevity.

For an 07. Get the oil pump changed. There is a flaw in the casing of the 07-08 range pumps, they crack, sometimes after a belt change, other times from general use. If they break, the tensioner sheers off and fks the engine. If you don't have evidence of it being changed. Get it done asap.

Gearbox needs flushed every 50-75k for best health. Almost no one has done that so expect either a torque converter if it's pulsing, or slipping under load. Dr Tranny helps mask it for a bit but eventually, you need either a new TC, or a TC and box rebuild. It's a ZF issue, not just a Land Rover issue.

They are heavy on brakes and tyres, but are pretty easy to work on, The parking brake needs stripped, cleaned and adjusted every service, i would get a specialist to do that if you aren't good with spanners. If it's serviced, it works fine. Mine is nearly 13 years old and still on the original module because it's been looked after.

They are damn comfy, i did Glasgow to Peterborough on Friday, and return on Sunday. Effortless in my old car. It also kicked 165k on the way down.

HSE is the spec to have. Buy on condition and proof of work done. Also remember, cheap parts fail quickly.
Quality parts last.
Advanced Factors is a good place for parts, have used them for 4 years and have always had great service.

bakerstreet

4,761 posts

165 months

Wednesday 20th September 2017
quotequote all
A.J.M said:
As above really with a couple of tweaks.

Bearmach sell the AMk compressor with covers for £325ish. The original compressor is a Hitachi, and is st. the AMK is fitted to the D4 and is much better in design and longevity.

For an 07. Get the oil pump changed. There is a flaw in the casing of the 07-08 range pumps, they crack, sometimes after a belt change, other times from general use. If they break, the tensioner sheers off and fks the engine. If you don't have evidence of it being changed. Get it done asap.

Gearbox needs flushed every 50-75k for best health. Almost no one has done that so expect either a torque converter if it's pulsing, or slipping under load. Dr Tranny helps mask it for a bit but eventually, you need either a new TC, or a TC and box rebuild. It's a ZF issue, not just a Land Rover issue.

They are heavy on brakes and tyres, but are pretty easy to work on, The parking brake needs stripped, cleaned and adjusted every service, i would get a specialist to do that if you aren't good with spanners. If it's serviced, it works fine. Mine is nearly 13 years old and still on the original module because it's been looked after.

They are damn comfy, i did Glasgow to Peterborough on Friday, and return on Sunday. Effortless in my old car. It also kicked 165k on the way down.

HSE is the spec to have. Buy on condition and proof of work done. Also remember, cheap parts fail quickly.
Quality parts last.
Advanced Factors is a good place for parts, have used them for 4 years and have always had great service.
Think I saw your FB post on that journey the other day!

Agree that HSE is the one to go for. Some SEs are are close of to HSE, but if you buy an HSE at least you will know that you will have all the essential toys (Nav HK Audio, parking sensors all round and xenons)


A.J.M

7,901 posts

186 months

Wednesday 20th September 2017
quotequote all
Silver D3 with headlights on parked on the drive? Mine. 1000 miles in a week. Bar putting diesel in it. Not a thing needed.

HSE is the spec.
The whole argument of getting a low spec for less to go wrong is bks.
Mine is 13 years old at Christmas. Everything works fine. Heated seats, windscreen, the auto lights and wipers, even the active cornering lights and the headlights still turn with the steering wheel.

Also, today it's been used as a van to take 2.4m decking boards home.
Fold the middle seat down, slide boards in.
Close tailgate. hehe

Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Thursday 21st September 2017
quotequote all
OK, think I might hang on for another year and try and up the budget and get a D4!

Thanks for all the replies.

bakerstreet

4,761 posts

165 months

Saturday 23rd September 2017
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If you can avoid buying in the winter. You will pay a premium vs buying in the summer.

D4s are now starting around £10k and they will continue to drop too &#128578;

camel_landy

4,886 posts

183 months

Saturday 23rd September 2017
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If you can stretch to a D4, they are significantly better for towing...

M

anonymous-user

54 months

Saturday 23rd September 2017
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I owned an 05 D3 for 7 years and it was a great, albeit expensive car to run. At 100k miles they start to become expensive. I sold mine with a gearbox that was about to give up and after thousands of £ I traded it for a D4. The D4 is a much better car if you can stretch to one.

eck c

345 posts

194 months

Sunday 24th September 2017
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Just in the process of chopping in the wife's Disco 3

Owned it for 7 years and it's on a 56 plate, went from 24k miles to just over 100k miles.
Fantastic thing to be in and superb off road and in snow there is no doubt.
Average MPG over the period is mid 20s.
Road tax is fecking extortionate.
As mentioned earlier front wheel bearing's have went a few times.
Biggest single expense was the air compressor at around £700 which went 3/4 years ago.
Gear selector seized a few times but is only about £20 for replacement.
Brakes/brake pipes have been needing work done regularly for the past few years.
If the EGR hasn't been done it's an easy DIY job and no re-mapping required pre 2008.
At 9 years old bodywork rust was getting fairly visible,
Various things to replace: tailgate handle, issue with airbag sensor due to wiring loom form Ford being used due to high demand at the time, usual suspension issues you get with a big 4x4 and goes thru loads of bulbs.
It was getting to the stage where it was needing work done at MOT's and was fairly regular at the local garage, electronic handbrake motor required replacing and that's a 4 figure job.

My advice is NO



Edited by eck c on Sunday 24th September 09:37

Rosscow

Original Poster:

8,755 posts

163 months

Sunday 24th September 2017
quotequote all
OK, thanks everyone.

Wait a while longer and get a D4 is the decision!


eck c

345 posts

194 months

Sunday 24th September 2017
quotequote all
Rosscow said:
OK, thanks everyone.

Wait a while longer and get a D4 is the decision!
Good lad, remember most places still have to the remove body from chassis for timing belt change on the D4