R56 MCS Suspension/Chassis upgrades - best value?
Discussion
I am running a 2010 (N18) MCS which I have owned for 7 months, the car is on 66k miles.
After a few months of running stock I carried out a few mods to accommodate more power:
- Cobra Sports Cat
- ITG Panel filter
- IKG Iridium spark plugs
- Manic Stage 1B remap
The car is now running at least 230bhp and I really do not want or need any more power.
Given I plan on keeping the car for another 4 years and in light of the power upgrades I'm seriously looking at suspension:
I am relatively uneducated as to how important each suspension/chassis upgrade is for handling so I am finding it difficult to decide on what represents good value for money. The car is a daily driver and will see track only once or twice a year, so I need it to be suitable for UK roads.
I'm thinking AP coil-overs, polyurethane bushes (a couple of my bushes are starting to need replacing so looking at cost efficiency while I get the coil-overs done) all round and a proper geo set up done. This will probably cost circa £1.1k all in.
Is the above likely to give me the best bang for buck in terms of a fast-road, daily usable suspension setup or would I be much wiser to invest in more premium coilovers? I have tried to do some reading into this on Mini-torque but it is pretty hard to discern between exactly what people like about the coilovers, whether they're just doing it for aesthetics, and the subjective point of what is actually acceptably comfortable ride quality.
I think I'm just looking for some reassurance that this level of outlay is going to give real tangible benefits in handling and grip without breaking my spine or whether I need to spend more to achieve that.
After a few months of running stock I carried out a few mods to accommodate more power:
- Cobra Sports Cat
- ITG Panel filter
- IKG Iridium spark plugs
- Manic Stage 1B remap
The car is now running at least 230bhp and I really do not want or need any more power.
Given I plan on keeping the car for another 4 years and in light of the power upgrades I'm seriously looking at suspension:
I am relatively uneducated as to how important each suspension/chassis upgrade is for handling so I am finding it difficult to decide on what represents good value for money. The car is a daily driver and will see track only once or twice a year, so I need it to be suitable for UK roads.
I'm thinking AP coil-overs, polyurethane bushes (a couple of my bushes are starting to need replacing so looking at cost efficiency while I get the coil-overs done) all round and a proper geo set up done. This will probably cost circa £1.1k all in.
Is the above likely to give me the best bang for buck in terms of a fast-road, daily usable suspension setup or would I be much wiser to invest in more premium coilovers? I have tried to do some reading into this on Mini-torque but it is pretty hard to discern between exactly what people like about the coilovers, whether they're just doing it for aesthetics, and the subjective point of what is actually acceptably comfortable ride quality.
I think I'm just looking for some reassurance that this level of outlay is going to give real tangible benefits in handling and grip without breaking my spine or whether I need to spend more to achieve that.
If you are using it as a daily driver, do you really want coilovers?
AP don't have a good name and are pretty low-rent really.
You would probably be better with an upgrade to Bilstein shocks & springs and this will probably be cheaper too.
EDIT:
Forget that, they come out more expensive.
I still wouldn't use AP, if you are going coilover chose a better known brand like ST/SPAX/BC/TEIN.
Especially BC or TEIN as they give you adjustable damping.
Barring the expense of those stick with standard, they do pretty well for the bulk of the time that you sound like you will be using the car, at least to start with & if you find they aren't good enough do it properly, not half-heartedly, it will only cost more in the long run if you don't.
AP don't have a good name and are pretty low-rent really.
You would probably be better with an upgrade to Bilstein shocks & springs and this will probably be cheaper too.
EDIT:
Forget that, they come out more expensive.
I still wouldn't use AP, if you are going coilover chose a better known brand like ST/SPAX/BC/TEIN.
Especially BC or TEIN as they give you adjustable damping.
Barring the expense of those stick with standard, they do pretty well for the bulk of the time that you sound like you will be using the car, at least to start with & if you find they aren't good enough do it properly, not half-heartedly, it will only cost more in the long run if you don't.
Edited by E-bmw on Tuesday 7th November 12:55
Well I'm clearly showing my ignorance here then as I understood a coilover to be just a shock and spring set sold in combination.
As far as I can see, Bilstein B14s are almost twice the price as the APs for the same level of adjusability (ie height only). Which is another thing - I see a lot of ravings over dampening/camber adjustability on the higher end models but might this be far and above what I need?
That's kind of what I'm getting to. Paying £950 for the coilovers only will soon tot up to £1600 with bushes, installation, and geo setup. That's approaching 25% of the value of the car - I would expect the car to be far and above what it is currently after that sort of outlay.
Sorry - posted the above before I saw your edit. Have taken on board your comments, thanks.
Interesting that you raise quite a lot of caution of ride quality on any aftermarket coilovers, especially as I've seen a lot of 'they ride better than stock' on mini-torque (which I don't overly trust, as a rule).
As far as I can see, Bilstein B14s are almost twice the price as the APs for the same level of adjusability (ie height only). Which is another thing - I see a lot of ravings over dampening/camber adjustability on the higher end models but might this be far and above what I need?
That's kind of what I'm getting to. Paying £950 for the coilovers only will soon tot up to £1600 with bushes, installation, and geo setup. That's approaching 25% of the value of the car - I would expect the car to be far and above what it is currently after that sort of outlay.
Sorry - posted the above before I saw your edit. Have taken on board your comments, thanks.
Interesting that you raise quite a lot of caution of ride quality on any aftermarket coilovers, especially as I've seen a lot of 'they ride better than stock' on mini-torque (which I don't overly trust, as a rule).
Edited by Complex on Tuesday 7th November 13:01
Complex said:
Well I'm clearly showing my ignorance here then as I understood a coilover to be just a shock and spring set sold in combination.
As far as I can see, Bilstein B14s are almost twice the price as the APs for the same level of adjusability (ie height only). Which is another thing - I see a lot of ravings over dampening/camber adjustability on the higher end models but might this be far and above what I need?
That's kind of what I'm getting to. Paying £950 for the coilovers only will soon tot up to £1600 with bushes, installation, and geo setup. That's approaching 25% of the value of the car - I would expect the car to be far and above what it is currently after that sort of outlay.
Yes, but no, but.As far as I can see, Bilstein B14s are almost twice the price as the APs for the same level of adjusability (ie height only). Which is another thing - I see a lot of ravings over dampening/camber adjustability on the higher end models but might this be far and above what I need?
That's kind of what I'm getting to. Paying £950 for the coilovers only will soon tot up to £1600 with bushes, installation, and geo setup. That's approaching 25% of the value of the car - I would expect the car to be far and above what it is currently after that sort of outlay.
A coilover is a suspension part that combines spring & shock in one unit, not just a spring & shock that you can buy at the same time if I am reading your point correctly.
Yes they are but they are probably at least twice as good (get what you pay for & all that) I am just questioning if coilovers are the right thing for you. They are not the be-all-&-end-all, answer to all your dreams suspension upgrade, most people fit them & get no benefit from them.
I personally have BC/BR coilovers but will track the car regularly, so will get the benefit.
Thanks, understood re how coilovers are configured.
Much of my view so far has been distorted by comments like 'installed XYZ coilovers and the car is transformed'. I am not at all interested in the aesthetics they offer, I do a lot of 'progressive' drives on B roads and would like to improve the experience, not purely through carrying higher speed but just the general feel of the car: greater precision and more progressiveness.
I am doing my best to man-maths the cost given I'll be keeping the car for 4 years yet but do have to draw the line somewhere.
Much of my view so far has been distorted by comments like 'installed XYZ coilovers and the car is transformed'. I am not at all interested in the aesthetics they offer, I do a lot of 'progressive' drives on B roads and would like to improve the experience, not purely through carrying higher speed but just the general feel of the car: greater precision and more progressiveness.
I am doing my best to man-maths the cost given I'll be keeping the car for 4 years yet but do have to draw the line somewhere.
If you want more from the car on a budget, add stickier tyres, maybe up a width, also add a larger rear anti roll bar 22mm+ and front camber plates so you can get some negative front camber, and try the car there.
coilovers have either linear or progressive springs, as well as adjusters or scope to lower. The majority use the lower spring perch which is for the spring pre-load, to lower the car, and sacrificing control of the spring, better ones have independent pre-load and height adjustment. Add to this the combinations of progressive or linear as before and you have a hornets nest of variables.
only do things in stages, a geometry check is essential after any change, aim for rear -1.5 and front -2 degrees, this will change the car, and to be honest the very next best thing you can do after front lower control arm polyurethane bushes, is fit a Quaife LSD, and even an alloy flywheel. This will allow the engine to spin up faster for a given throttle input, and the traction possible will be the most impressive experience, aided by the new geometry.
Just these things will provide you with a different car. The best coilovers will be over 1k, so my recommendation is buy the things that will work better for immediately.
leave things like exhaust, divert the money into the above, you'll have a bit of a 'Q' car, which will be very tractable, and make almost no more noise.
coilovers have either linear or progressive springs, as well as adjusters or scope to lower. The majority use the lower spring perch which is for the spring pre-load, to lower the car, and sacrificing control of the spring, better ones have independent pre-load and height adjustment. Add to this the combinations of progressive or linear as before and you have a hornets nest of variables.
only do things in stages, a geometry check is essential after any change, aim for rear -1.5 and front -2 degrees, this will change the car, and to be honest the very next best thing you can do after front lower control arm polyurethane bushes, is fit a Quaife LSD, and even an alloy flywheel. This will allow the engine to spin up faster for a given throttle input, and the traction possible will be the most impressive experience, aided by the new geometry.
Just these things will provide you with a different car. The best coilovers will be over 1k, so my recommendation is buy the things that will work better for immediately.
leave things like exhaust, divert the money into the above, you'll have a bit of a 'Q' car, which will be very tractable, and make almost no more noise.
ash73 said:
I looked into this a while ago. a lot of MINI owners install AP coilovers for aesthetics to lower the ride height because they are cheap, and they are stiffer than stock; AP plus poly bushes will rattle your fillings!
Tein are a reasonable budget option while KW are the premium brand most people recommend, ST coilovers are also made by KW and have slightly softer springs but without the protective coatings, and are somewhat cheaper.
The most interesting option I found was KW street comfort coilovers, but didn't go ahead because I couldn't find any proper reviews of them.
http://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/kw/info/coil_overs/...
Suggest you have a chat with Chris at Lohen.
It was Lohen who installed the engine/exhaust mods and undertook the remap and I did raise the idea of coilovers with them while there. The feedback was that their Tein Coilovers (similar price to APs) would improve handling at the cost of comfort and that the STs would offer both improved handling and comfort. I was looking for second opinions from punters to this. It also raises the question of the level adjustability I would actually need as the STs are available with just ride height, or damping or damping+camber too. Again, I don't know to what degree this might be overkill for someone who just does a lot of fast road driving but who has no interest in aesthetics. Tein are a reasonable budget option while KW are the premium brand most people recommend, ST coilovers are also made by KW and have slightly softer springs but without the protective coatings, and are somewhat cheaper.
The most interesting option I found was KW street comfort coilovers, but didn't go ahead because I couldn't find any proper reviews of them.
http://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/kw/info/coil_overs/...
Suggest you have a chat with Chris at Lohen.
Appreciate the feedback, has given me cause to reconsider somewhat rather than just go ahead with some low-end coilovers and firm bushes.
Edit - @ CarsorBikes - Thanks, certainly not making the decision easier by coming at it from a completely different angle but I'll look into what you've said. I have given a Quaife a lot of thought, the only thing I'm conscious of is being given a (albeit impressive) gimmick which might compromise my learning of handling a fast FWD by letting me be far more liberal (maybe even sloppy) on the throttle and flatter me by putting power down easily out of tight corners rather than training myself to balance it it more acutely.
Edited by Complex on Tuesday 7th November 14:19
The stock R56 Sports Suspension+ is appalling IMO. We have a stock Cooper S R56 and a modded R53 in the family - the R53 is about as low as it can go on Meister coilovers, with -2 camber up front (the most I could get without cutting the strut tops) and I think -1 out the back and is much more compliant than the R56.
R53s & R56s have very similar chassis, I think the front coil unit is the same so what works on an R53 well should also therefore work well on an R56. It's important to remember that you don't have to run coils so your sump is scraping the ground, but you do have the option of what height you want. If you are lowering from stock you'll need adjustable rear arms to keep the rear geo in check or you'll end up with loads of -ve camber at the back.
No experience of APs, but my understanding was they gave a soft ride (assuming a decent ride height). Springs won't give a better ride than stock as you're stuck with the stock dampers.
Depends entirely on what you want - do you want to keep the same handling characteristics but have softer damping, or do you want to fine tune it to your spec? Probably £2k all in for the latter option, a few years since I did mine though
R53s & R56s have very similar chassis, I think the front coil unit is the same so what works on an R53 well should also therefore work well on an R56. It's important to remember that you don't have to run coils so your sump is scraping the ground, but you do have the option of what height you want. If you are lowering from stock you'll need adjustable rear arms to keep the rear geo in check or you'll end up with loads of -ve camber at the back.
No experience of APs, but my understanding was they gave a soft ride (assuming a decent ride height). Springs won't give a better ride than stock as you're stuck with the stock dampers.
Depends entirely on what you want - do you want to keep the same handling characteristics but have softer damping, or do you want to fine tune it to your spec? Probably £2k all in for the latter option, a few years since I did mine though
Interesting thread, and I was about to post something pretty similar about my R56 MCS (2010 as well). It does loads of road miles, but also gets dumped on track and will do some sprints / hillclimbs in 2018.
I put some Eibach Pro-kit springs on my previous car, and thought they were excellent. However, having read Minitorque it seems that this would be the work of the devil on a Mini..
I wouldn't buy cheap coilovers and couldn't really justify the cost of quality kit.
Tbh, with some sticky tyres on I thought the stock suspension was good on track, but will investigate other improvements rather than just worrying about coilovers.
I put some Eibach Pro-kit springs on my previous car, and thought they were excellent. However, having read Minitorque it seems that this would be the work of the devil on a Mini..
I wouldn't buy cheap coilovers and couldn't really justify the cost of quality kit.
Tbh, with some sticky tyres on I thought the stock suspension was good on track, but will investigate other improvements rather than just worrying about coilovers.
I think what also makes this kind of discussion harder is that because I'm not overly familiar with different types of suspensions setup and the language used to describe 'what I want' from the suspension, I can't really articulate it even if I did know - which I don't.
I certainly wouldn't want anything firmer than stock, I can tolerate it from the driver's seat with a steering wheel to hold onto - it's pretty shocking for passengers. If I was to retain this level of firmness when spending considerably on upgrading (say coilovers) I would want extensive benefits in feel, progressiveness, grip and traction.
My uneducated comments on how I find the stock suspension:
- Obviously the very firm ride, but on the brink of tolerable. Far less comfortable than my friends' stock 182 clio or even coilovered (and heavily modded in every way) '05 Megane F1.
- Initial turn-in and loading up the car is fine and intuitive enough, though is a little slack and seems to take a second for the weight to settle - maybe that is me being fussy and without too much to compare it to in terms of other hot FWD cars.
- The car is deflected pretty easily on less-than-good surfaces and even at constant throttle needs a lot of input on the steering to keep it straight.
- The front can be pretty easily unsettled when coming out of a corner on non-perfect surfaces. It quite often bounces up a little and absolutely ruins traction even when from where I'm sitting the bump feels mild.
Somewhat related to the above but a different strand of discussion: I am still using the tyres the car came with as they were all relatively new: Dunlop SP01s on the rear and budget s
tters on the front which I'm having fun trying to grind down. What are people's thoughts on deliberately underspeccing their tyres so that for road use the limit comes at a more reasonable speed? My default choice would be to put PS4s all round but might consider something mid-range as I'm more interested in learning FWD car control and having fun than maximum grip and outright speed.
I certainly wouldn't want anything firmer than stock, I can tolerate it from the driver's seat with a steering wheel to hold onto - it's pretty shocking for passengers. If I was to retain this level of firmness when spending considerably on upgrading (say coilovers) I would want extensive benefits in feel, progressiveness, grip and traction.
My uneducated comments on how I find the stock suspension:
- Obviously the very firm ride, but on the brink of tolerable. Far less comfortable than my friends' stock 182 clio or even coilovered (and heavily modded in every way) '05 Megane F1.
- Initial turn-in and loading up the car is fine and intuitive enough, though is a little slack and seems to take a second for the weight to settle - maybe that is me being fussy and without too much to compare it to in terms of other hot FWD cars.
- The car is deflected pretty easily on less-than-good surfaces and even at constant throttle needs a lot of input on the steering to keep it straight.
- The front can be pretty easily unsettled when coming out of a corner on non-perfect surfaces. It quite often bounces up a little and absolutely ruins traction even when from where I'm sitting the bump feels mild.
Somewhat related to the above but a different strand of discussion: I am still using the tyres the car came with as they were all relatively new: Dunlop SP01s on the rear and budget s
tters on the front which I'm having fun trying to grind down. What are people's thoughts on deliberately underspeccing their tyres so that for road use the limit comes at a more reasonable speed? My default choice would be to put PS4s all round but might consider something mid-range as I'm more interested in learning FWD car control and having fun than maximum grip and outright speed. Tyres - I've tried loads on the R53 over the years, and found the Parada Spec 2 to be a great match for the chassis. Yes, less ultimate wet grip, but so much feel and makes it easier to play with the car.
The symptoms you describe definitely sounds like your front lower wishbone bushes are shot - that will cause the tugging on the wheel. Changing them alone will make a difference, although not to the ride sadly.
If you want to improve the car, I would look at a set of KW coils, front camber plates, wishbone bushes as above, rear control arms and a fatter rear bar. Once you've got the above setup by someone who knows what they're doing, you won't regret it IMO.
Use the manmaths calculator, for 4 years use it'll be well worth it!
The symptoms you describe definitely sounds like your front lower wishbone bushes are shot - that will cause the tugging on the wheel. Changing them alone will make a difference, although not to the ride sadly.
If you want to improve the car, I would look at a set of KW coils, front camber plates, wishbone bushes as above, rear control arms and a fatter rear bar. Once you've got the above setup by someone who knows what they're doing, you won't regret it IMO.
Use the manmaths calculator, for 4 years use it'll be well worth it!
I have an R53 which had two P Zeros and two budget tyres on the rear (from ASDA would you believe!) on it when I bought it.
I used it on track and it was okay but would occasionally try and swap end under heavy braking (approaching no name at Goodwood for example)... so I swapped ends with the tyres, so I now had the cheapies on the front.
Now it understeered, squealed, moved about a lot - on an Autosolo I was in the bottom third of the result sheet rather than the top third as was more usual.
So, I went mad and bought two more P Zeros so I had the same tyres all round (I know! Extravagant or what!) - car was quite literally transformed - quieter, better ride, more grip, no more squirreling about under brakes...
So my advice is get a decent, matching, set of tyres - RFTs or otherwise.
Note all the tyres were nearly new, even the cheapies when I swapped them, so it wasn't that I swapped worn tyres for new.
I used it on track and it was okay but would occasionally try and swap end under heavy braking (approaching no name at Goodwood for example)... so I swapped ends with the tyres, so I now had the cheapies on the front.
Now it understeered, squealed, moved about a lot - on an Autosolo I was in the bottom third of the result sheet rather than the top third as was more usual.
So, I went mad and bought two more P Zeros so I had the same tyres all round (I know! Extravagant or what!) - car was quite literally transformed - quieter, better ride, more grip, no more squirreling about under brakes...
So my advice is get a decent, matching, set of tyres - RFTs or otherwise.
Note all the tyres were nearly new, even the cheapies when I swapped them, so it wasn't that I swapped worn tyres for new.
The tyres are certainly going to be going, I just thought it would be worth running the car with horrible ones up front so I can experience something difference and appreciate the car even more when I put something better on, which is most likely to be PS4s all round.
I am hoping my rubbish tyres up front aren't colouring my take on the stock suspension too much.
When I had the engine and exhaust work done at Lohen I was given advisories on 'FWBB' and LEM soft', so:
Given that and the advice given so far on the thread, perhaps something like:
- Powerflex Front Wishbone Rear Bush £58 http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/chassis/bus...
- Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Bush £23 http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/chassis/bus...
- Rear antiroll bar c. £280 https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/suspension/braces-a...
Then if necessary to go further:
- Rear control arms £100 https://orranje.co.uk/silver-project-rear-control-...
- MeisterR ZetaCRD+ Coilvers £880 (gives camber adjustment on the front) £https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/meisterr/meisterr-mini-r56-07-zetacrd-coilovers.html I could alternatively for the the (KW) ST XTAs which give height/dampening/camber adjustment too for around 20% more cost but the MeisterRs seem pretty well reviewed and developed. I would be spending twice as much to get the equivalent adjustability on KW v2/v3s - presumably their benefits of stainless steel coating can be negated by some annual maintenance to the MeisterR/STs?
The thing is, the above all-in is going to sail past £2.4k when the fitting and geometry is done at Lohen (and then redone if the upgrades are done incrementally).
I would like to think if I ever did go with all of the above that it would hopefully blow away most things this side of the current 2015+ hot hatches (Golf R, CTR, Cupra 280), right?????
I am hoping my rubbish tyres up front aren't colouring my take on the stock suspension too much.
When I had the engine and exhaust work done at Lohen I was given advisories on 'FWBB' and LEM soft', so:
Given that and the advice given so far on the thread, perhaps something like:
- Powerflex Front Wishbone Rear Bush £58 http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/chassis/bus...
- Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Bush £23 http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/gen-2-mini/chassis/bus...
- Rear antiroll bar c. £280 https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/suspension/braces-a...
Then if necessary to go further:
- Rear control arms £100 https://orranje.co.uk/silver-project-rear-control-...
- MeisterR ZetaCRD+ Coilvers £880 (gives camber adjustment on the front) £https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/meisterr/meisterr-mini-r56-07-zetacrd-coilovers.html I could alternatively for the the (KW) ST XTAs which give height/dampening/camber adjustment too for around 20% more cost but the MeisterRs seem pretty well reviewed and developed. I would be spending twice as much to get the equivalent adjustability on KW v2/v3s - presumably their benefits of stainless steel coating can be negated by some annual maintenance to the MeisterR/STs?
The thing is, the above all-in is going to sail past £2.4k when the fitting and geometry is done at Lohen (and then redone if the upgrades are done incrementally).
I would like to think if I ever did go with all of the above that it would hopefully blow away most things this side of the current 2015+ hot hatches (Golf R, CTR, Cupra 280), right?????
I'm on Meister R's which are probably 5 years old now. The spring coating is flaking but apart from that they're fine (not tried to adjust them though for a while). Also got the 22mm rear bar, adjustable RCA's and polybushed all round and it just flies round corners.
IME if you get that done, and 230-250bhp, it's all you need for the road and you'll be faster in the bends than pretty much anything this side of an Elise/Caterham-type car. Mini's are brilliant, and once you finesse them a bit they blow your mind.
If you're going this far it's worth ditching the heavy stock alloys for something lighter, if you haven't done that already
IME if you get that done, and 230-250bhp, it's all you need for the road and you'll be faster in the bends than pretty much anything this side of an Elise/Caterham-type car. Mini's are brilliant, and once you finesse them a bit they blow your mind.
If you're going this far it's worth ditching the heavy stock alloys for something lighter, if you haven't done that already
Complex said:
- MeisterR ZetaCRD+ Coilvers £880 (gives camber adjustment on the front) £https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/meisterr/meisterr-mini-r56-07-zetacrd-coilovers.html I could alternatively for the the (KW) ST XTAs which give height/dampening/camber adjustment too for around 20% more cost
Or BC/BR at around £800 or a little less and you get all of the above including damping adjustment without dropping the rears.Pillow ball front & rear.
Adjustable damping.
Adjustable ride height.
Separate adjustable pre-load.
Adjustable front camper.
Just to add my 2p.....
I have a GP2 - essentially (for the purposes of this topic) a JCW with a tad more power and coilover suspension. Speed wise, it's as quick as the new S3 (same chassis/power as a Golf R) in a straight line. The handling is superb, very pointy and grippy but with a great level of adjustability. Ride-wise, it's firm but not crashy. It's my daily driver and for me is perfectly fine (although I wouldn't want the ride to be any firmer!!).
For a b-road blast it is sublime.
I have a GP2 - essentially (for the purposes of this topic) a JCW with a tad more power and coilover suspension. Speed wise, it's as quick as the new S3 (same chassis/power as a Golf R) in a straight line. The handling is superb, very pointy and grippy but with a great level of adjustability. Ride-wise, it's firm but not crashy. It's my daily driver and for me is perfectly fine (although I wouldn't want the ride to be any firmer!!).
For a b-road blast it is sublime.
As already said, do one thing at a time. Although saying that, if you need tyres and bushes, may as well do that and the geometry, to proper settings, not OE.
The R56 should have adjustable rear camber, so no need to waste money there. You can also tweak the front top mounts to get near 0.5 degree more negative camber.
The tyres and bushes should cure most of your issues anyway.
The R56 should have adjustable rear camber, so no need to waste money there. You can also tweak the front top mounts to get near 0.5 degree more negative camber.
The tyres and bushes should cure most of your issues anyway.
Doing things bit by bit certainly makes sense theoretically. For me the main drawback is the efficiencies lost in 1) Multiple trips to Lohen 2) Not combining jobs to save on labour cost 3) Geometry needing to be set after each incremental change.
For example, presumably if I was having coilovers fitted I could get all of the suspension/engine mount bushes done at the same time at little additional labour? To do them isolation would incur c. £300 labour.
I don't know if I'm overstating the above but say I was to get all of these mods fitted within 5-6 months of each other anyway, I wouldn't be too pleased about having to spend an additional few hundred pounds on labour compared to doing them as one.
Same point with geometry but to be honest I have no idea how long that takes and extent to which it needs adjusting each time after minor mods.
Tyres will certainly be done, now the cold and wet has hit I'm enjoying the fun of having no grip nor traction most of the time on half-worn budget tyres.
For example, presumably if I was having coilovers fitted I could get all of the suspension/engine mount bushes done at the same time at little additional labour? To do them isolation would incur c. £300 labour.
I don't know if I'm overstating the above but say I was to get all of these mods fitted within 5-6 months of each other anyway, I wouldn't be too pleased about having to spend an additional few hundred pounds on labour compared to doing them as one.
Same point with geometry but to be honest I have no idea how long that takes and extent to which it needs adjusting each time after minor mods.
Tyres will certainly be done, now the cold and wet has hit I'm enjoying the fun of having no grip nor traction most of the time on half-worn budget tyres.
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