Fuel pump not priming
Discussion
Haha hasn’t been long at all has it since another post.
I did read other posts on this but I need it dumbing down again for me please.
I was cleaning the carpets and moved all the spaghetti wires yesterday. Today try and start the car up it turns over fine but fuel pump wasn’t priming.
Checked the fuse and that is okay but I don’t know what to check next. Can anyone elaborate?
I did read other posts on this but I need it dumbing down again for me please.
I was cleaning the carpets and moved all the spaghetti wires yesterday. Today try and start the car up it turns over fine but fuel pump wasn’t priming.
Checked the fuse and that is okay but I don’t know what to check next. Can anyone elaborate?
The fuel pump relay is near the fuse box. In the link below there are photos with the various parts labelled. The fuel pump relay needs to be tested to see if it is getting a signal when you first switch the ignition on. It should be switched on for no more than 3 seconds. It is the one fitted to the blue connector on the loom. It may be hanging about somewhere near the fuse box or stuck up behind the dash.
The relay is a Bosch unit, part number 0332014112. About a tenner or so on eBay.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The relay is a Bosch unit, part number 0332014112. About a tenner or so on eBay.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by N7GTX on Wednesday 17th January 10:43
So when you turn the ignition to on can you hear the relays click? If not then there is a fault further back i.e. power to the relays.
If yes, you hear a click, then you need to jack up the rear nearside and remove the wheel. The fuel pump is in front of you bolted to the chassis. If you have a multimeter, attach the probes to the terminals and have someone switch the ignition on. You should see battery voltage - around 11.5 - 12 volts. If you do then the pump has failed. If you do not then open the passenger door, tip the seat forward and behind the door fame you can pull the carpet away as it is velcroed (or was). There is wiring in there which is easily accessible. Check all the connectors by disconnecting and inspecting. Corrosion should be fixed if you find some on the terminals.
You can determine the fuel pump wiring colours and probe them at the connector as before. If still no voltage then back to the relay. If yes then the wiring is broken between the connector and the pump.
Its just a process of elimination.
Remove the relay and with the ignition off put one probe to a good earth - the battery negative is nearby. Then probe each of the terminals. You should find one terminal that is live with 12 volts - permanent live. Now have someone switch the ignition on and probe again. You should find another terminal supplying 12 volts - ignition switched supply. If you do then the relay is suspect. If you do not then the relay is not being switched.
If yes, you hear a click, then you need to jack up the rear nearside and remove the wheel. The fuel pump is in front of you bolted to the chassis. If you have a multimeter, attach the probes to the terminals and have someone switch the ignition on. You should see battery voltage - around 11.5 - 12 volts. If you do then the pump has failed. If you do not then open the passenger door, tip the seat forward and behind the door fame you can pull the carpet away as it is velcroed (or was). There is wiring in there which is easily accessible. Check all the connectors by disconnecting and inspecting. Corrosion should be fixed if you find some on the terminals.
You can determine the fuel pump wiring colours and probe them at the connector as before. If still no voltage then back to the relay. If yes then the wiring is broken between the connector and the pump.
Its just a process of elimination.
Remove the relay and with the ignition off put one probe to a good earth - the battery negative is nearby. Then probe each of the terminals. You should find one terminal that is live with 12 volts - permanent live. Now have someone switch the ignition on and probe again. You should find another terminal supplying 12 volts - ignition switched supply. If you do then the relay is suspect. If you do not then the relay is not being switched.
Edited by N7GTX on Saturday 17th February 14:02
t on the prongs ... replaced THAT one and it started up first time !!!!!!!
Good result.
Now you need to do some more work.
If those contacts were as bad as you say then the new relay will give the same issues unless you get the relay base (connector) really clean or better still replace all the contacts.
As a bare minimum stuff the contacts full of Vaseline then push the relay in and out about 20 times so the pins of the relay scrape a good contact on the terminals.
Steve
Now you need to do some more work.
If those contacts were as bad as you say then the new relay will give the same issues unless you get the relay base (connector) really clean or better still replace all the contacts.
As a bare minimum stuff the contacts full of Vaseline then push the relay in and out about 20 times so the pins of the relay scrape a good contact on the terminals.
Steve
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