RE: Mazda RX-8: PH Heroes
Discussion
Christmassss said:
Interestingly, Panspeed sacked off their Time attack FD RX7 in favour of the RX8, 20b NA...The noise...
How to fix a 350Z 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdrpwrN9daM
cib24 said:
Interesting. Show the proof of the RE-A one as I am curious. In any case no one in the UK has made more than 230-240 without extreme and undrivable port work.
Ours made 260+ but it had a nice tubular manifold you don't have room for in the stock car, and was on standalone, etc.cib24 said:
Interesting. Show the proof of the RE-A one as I am curious. In any case no one in the UK has made more than 230-240 without extreme and undrivable port work.
Panspeed's 300bhp car is not really much of a renesis anymore because the housings they use have peripheral exhaust ports which I explained in my previous post flow soon much better and have so much more potential. That car's engine is much more in line with every other rotary prior to the Renesis.
My FD dyno'd at 398bhp (340 to the wheels) and 360lb ft of torque (300-ish to the wheels) from a relatively generous Dyno. So let's call is 375-400hp depending on where you take it to be dyno'd.
Mods are pretty basic as I focused on key weak points and wanted to retain a stock OEM look.
Twins with increased boost pressure to 1.05 bar up from 0.75.
Stock air box and paper air filter but a Greddy stock location intercooler (not very big).
Water injection at a small 250cc/min dosage to keep intake temps cool when the small intercooler heatsoaks.
3" downpipe, 3" midpipe with high flow cat, 3" back box.
HKS Twin Power ignition amp
Hotwired stock fuel pump to make sure it sees maximum voltage at WOT.
Apexi Power FC custom ECU tune.
That's it.
You RX looks nice, are you still running the twins Seq? or Non?Panspeed's 300bhp car is not really much of a renesis anymore because the housings they use have peripheral exhaust ports which I explained in my previous post flow soon much better and have so much more potential. That car's engine is much more in line with every other rotary prior to the Renesis.
My FD dyno'd at 398bhp (340 to the wheels) and 360lb ft of torque (300-ish to the wheels) from a relatively generous Dyno. So let's call is 375-400hp depending on where you take it to be dyno'd.
Mods are pretty basic as I focused on key weak points and wanted to retain a stock OEM look.
Twins with increased boost pressure to 1.05 bar up from 0.75.
Stock air box and paper air filter but a Greddy stock location intercooler (not very big).
Water injection at a small 250cc/min dosage to keep intake temps cool when the small intercooler heatsoaks.
3" downpipe, 3" midpipe with high flow cat, 3" back box.
HKS Twin Power ignition amp
Hotwired stock fuel pump to make sure it sees maximum voltage at WOT.
Apexi Power FC custom ECU tune.
That's it.
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 14:14
IMO, all port work is driveable
I will try and dig out the Re-amemiya stuff, which is easier said than done as their global website is no longer live.
cib24 said:
Interesting. Show the proof of the RE-A one as I am curious. In any case no one in the UK has made more than 230-240 without extreme and undrivable port work.
Panspeed's 300bhp car is not really much of a renesis anymore because the housings they use have peripheral exhaust ports which I explained in my previous post flow soon much better and have so much more potential. That car's engine is much more in line with every other rotary prior to the Renesis.
My FD dyno'd at 398bhp (340 to the wheels) and 360lb ft of torque (300-ish to the wheels) from a relatively generous Dyno. So let's call is 375-400hp depending on where you take it to be dyno'd.
Mods are pretty basic as I focused on key weak points and wanted to retain a stock OEM look.
Twins with increased boost pressure to 1.05 bar up from 0.75.
Stock air box and paper air filter but a Greddy stock location intercooler (not very big).
Water injection at a small 250cc/min dosage to keep intake temps cool when the small intercooler heatsoaks.
3" downpipe, 3" midpipe with high flow cat, 3" back box.
HKS Twin Power ignition amp
Hotwired stock fuel pump to make sure it sees maximum voltage at WOT.
Apexi Power FC custom ECU tune.
That's it.
Are all RX7s like that? The power seems to drop off at low revs for a rotary, dropping quite sharply before even 7k, or do RX7s not rev as high as the RX8?Panspeed's 300bhp car is not really much of a renesis anymore because the housings they use have peripheral exhaust ports which I explained in my previous post flow soon much better and have so much more potential. That car's engine is much more in line with every other rotary prior to the Renesis.
My FD dyno'd at 398bhp (340 to the wheels) and 360lb ft of torque (300-ish to the wheels) from a relatively generous Dyno. So let's call is 375-400hp depending on where you take it to be dyno'd.
Mods are pretty basic as I focused on key weak points and wanted to retain a stock OEM look.
Twins with increased boost pressure to 1.05 bar up from 0.75.
Stock air box and paper air filter but a Greddy stock location intercooler (not very big).
Water injection at a small 250cc/min dosage to keep intake temps cool when the small intercooler heatsoaks.
3" downpipe, 3" midpipe with high flow cat, 3" back box.
HKS Twin Power ignition amp
Hotwired stock fuel pump to make sure it sees maximum voltage at WOT.
Apexi Power FC custom ECU tune.
That's it.
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 14:14
Test driver said:
What is the fix for when the engine “floods”?
I’m considering buying one, or a s2000/mr2 turbo/350z.
Get an mr2 turbo, rev 3+. I’m considering buying one, or a s2000/mr2 turbo/350z.
Martin350 said:
I agree.
I've done around 1,200 miles in mine and only had to put about half a litre in it.
For a few days when I bought mine I was slightly underwhelmed but one day I took it down a winding B-road and it all made sense!
It's even better on new Avon ZZ5 tyres.
EBC yellowstuff pads all round have sharpened up the brakes an incredible amount.
The cats can be a problem as they run so hot and can collapse inside, or something. I spent about £100 on a decat pipe which is safer for the engine, makes it sound a bit better and allows it to spit flames!
The ZZ5's really are good. Fit them on my mr2 turbo for a track day, they're incredible even when cold.I've done around 1,200 miles in mine and only had to put about half a litre in it.
For a few days when I bought mine I was slightly underwhelmed but one day I took it down a winding B-road and it all made sense!
It's even better on new Avon ZZ5 tyres.
EBC yellowstuff pads all round have sharpened up the brakes an incredible amount.
The cats can be a problem as they run so hot and can collapse inside, or something. I spent about £100 on a decat pipe which is safer for the engine, makes it sound a bit better and allows it to spit flames!
Christmassss said:
You RX looks nice, are you still running the twins Seq? or Non?
IMO, all port work is driveable
I will try and dig out the Re-amemiya stuff, which is easier said than done as their global website is no longer live.
Yes, sequential, hence the dip in the torque curve when the secondary comes online and joins the primary. Not enough fuel left with the stock injectors to map that out as I would need to push the primary harder to compensate for the dip.IMO, all port work is driveable
I will try and dig out the Re-amemiya stuff, which is easier said than done as their global website is no longer live.
Dan-P said:
Are all RX7s like that? The power seems to drop off at low revs for a rotary, dropping quite sharply before even 7k, or do RX7s not rev as high as the RX8?
With stock ports and stock twin turbos - yes. The car has a fuel cut rev limit of 8,100 RPM so you can rev it out all you want but beyond 7,000 RPM there is little point unless it makes sense to hold onto a gear before a corner rather than shift and lose time. With the stock twins in sequential operation you get positive boost pressure from about 1,800 RPM and full boost pressure of 1.0 bar at 2400 RPM. And in my car I have full torque, minus the dip during the transition to bring the second turbo online with the primary, from 2,900-6,000 RPM.
My car is also being choked on the top end by 500 RPMs or so due to running a catalytic converter in my mid pipe and a relatively small back box with a large and more restrictive muffler to keep the car quiet for track days.
If you were to street port my car the power band will shift to the right by 500-1,000 RPM before power falls off.
In any case, the car makes very nice power with a broad torque curve and you don't notice it fall off on the upper end. It's got enough power to weight as well to run a low 12 second 1/4 mile which makes it as quick (roughly) as a new BMW M4 Competition Pack in a straight line, just that mine is 20 years older and looks better ;-P
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 17:27
The problem I had when looking for one as a track car was because they were cheap, they were all run on the cheap.
Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Daniel1 said:
The problem I had when looking for one as a track car was because they were cheap, they were all run on the cheap.
Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Yeah, but that is also why you see so many at track days around the UK. The RX8 with cheap track day tyres like Federal 595 RSRs or Nankang NS-2Rs, lowering springs, upgraded brake pads and fluid, a geo and alignment, and a healthy ignition system is quicker than a lot of other cars on a circuit outside of your large power circuits like Silverstone because it has such neutral handling and is a good momentum car with a bit of usable power. Plus, they will happily run round and round a circuit all day and not complain so long as you keep an eye on the oil level and the rotary engine loves to be abused. Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Hence, why so many are used as cheap track day cars like MX-5s, old Hondas and old Renault Clio 172/182s.
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 17:43
cib24 said:
With stock ports and stock twin turbos - yes. The car has a fuel cut rev limit of 8,100 RPM so you can rev it out all you want but beyond 7,000 RPM there is little point unless it makes sense to hold onto a gear before a corner rather than shift and lose time.
With the stock twins in sequential operation you get positive boost pressure from about 1,800 RPM and full boost pressure of 1.0 bar at 2400 RPM. And in my car I have full torque, minus the dip during the transition to bring the second turbo online with the primary, from 2,900-6,000 RPM.
My car is also being choked on the top end by 500 RPMs or so due to running a catalytic converter in my mid pipe and a relatively small back box with a large and more restrictive muffler to keep the car quiet for track days.
If you were to street port my car the power band will shift to the right by 500-1,000 RPM before power falls off.
In any case, the car makes very nice power with a broad torque curve and you don't notice it fall off on the upper end. It's got enough power to weight as well to run a low 12 second 1/4 mile which makes it as quick (roughly) as a new BMW M4 Competition Pack in a straight line, just that mine is 20 years older and looks better ;-P
Cheers for the answer, I've never driven an RX7 to compare the two. Car looks great by the way, can't remember the last time I saw another RX7 or RX8 on the road, they seem to have all vanished!With the stock twins in sequential operation you get positive boost pressure from about 1,800 RPM and full boost pressure of 1.0 bar at 2400 RPM. And in my car I have full torque, minus the dip during the transition to bring the second turbo online with the primary, from 2,900-6,000 RPM.
My car is also being choked on the top end by 500 RPMs or so due to running a catalytic converter in my mid pipe and a relatively small back box with a large and more restrictive muffler to keep the car quiet for track days.
If you were to street port my car the power band will shift to the right by 500-1,000 RPM before power falls off.
In any case, the car makes very nice power with a broad torque curve and you don't notice it fall off on the upper end. It's got enough power to weight as well to run a low 12 second 1/4 mile which makes it as quick (roughly) as a new BMW M4 Competition Pack in a straight line, just that mine is 20 years older and looks better ;-P
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 17:27
cib24 said:
Yes, sequential, hence the dip in the torque curve when the secondary comes online and joins the primary. Not enough fuel left with the stock injectors to map that out as I would need to push the primary harder to compensate for the dip.
I went non sequential on both my FD’s...the rats nest kept playing with my OCD!
Christmassss said:
I went non sequential on both my FD’s...the rats nest kept playing with my OCD!
But then you don't have any boost until about 3,700 RPM vs. 1,800 RPM. The sequential system isn't that complicated, it's just over 20 years old now so the check valves and vacuum lines need refreshing on nearly every car.cib24 said:
But then you don't have any boost until about 3,700 RPM vs. 1,800 RPM. The sequential system isn't that complicated, it's just over 20 years old now so the check valves and vacuum lines need refreshing on nearly every car.
I find it more drive-able around town as non seq as i don't need boost at 30mph! lol. I also found the switch over annoying on both of mine, the smoother power band is very satisfying. IMONot that it really matters as the twins run out of puff at the top end which is where all the fun is, I have a GT35r on the FC. I would like a T51r and full bridge on the FD with a 9.5k rev limit but life keeps getting in the way!
cib24 said:
Daniel1 said:
The problem I had when looking for one as a track car was because they were cheap, they were all run on the cheap.
Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Yeah, but that is also why you see so many at track days around the UK. The RX8 with cheap track day tyres like Federal 595 RSRs or Nankang NS-2Rs, lowering springs, upgraded brake pads and fluid, a geo and alignment, and a healthy ignition system is quicker than a lot of other cars on a circuit outside of your large power circuits like Silverstone because it has such neutral handling and is a good momentum car with a bit of usable power. Plus, they will happily run round and round a circuit all day and not complain so long as you keep an eye on the oil level and the rotary engine loves to be abused. Cheap tyres, cheap ignition packs - all normally being sold because they've started having hot start and running issues.
I'm not sold by the looks or the noise but a 1300kg rwd good handling car for a track car/modified toy sounds fun.
Hence, why so many are used as cheap track day cars like MX-5s, old Hondas and old Renault Clio 172/182s.
Edited by cib24 on Friday 14th September 17:43
I love these cars. I've never plucked up the courage to own one, but was seriously impressed when I test drove one back when they first came out.
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