RE: Ford Puma: Spotted
Discussion
Bought this one last year for very little, from BCA Blackbushe Auctions. This one like others came in via BCA owned 'We Buy Any Car', had to have it as looking underneath it was completely rust free, 1 owner and 58k miles.
A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
Edited by QuadCamCapri on Thursday 4th April 08:53
FWDRacer said:
Terzo123 said:
Great little cars. My wife had a 1.7 lux.
Only sold it as we couldn't fit the baby stuff in it after our eldest was born.
Spent Shiite loads on a pram that avoided that problem, and kept ours....Only sold it as we couldn't fit the baby stuff in it after our eldest was born.
egor110 said:
Are you running st brakes or totally bog standard ?
Standard brakes, albeit with drilled and grooved discs, quality pads and good brake fluid. The point was really to get an unmodified car for peanuts and run it as much as I could on track...if it got dented or hit the wall then so be it as I can just go out and get another one. The fact that I have no fear of expense means I appear to be able to commit to corners to a greater degree than the somewhat more exotic machinery. I also have no worries about letting complete strangers take it out on track which in turn means I get to go in their far fancier machines. Lots of people seem to want to have a go driving the Puma and all emerge with a smile.All that said, I am rather tempted by the idea of an LSD in one of these and they inspire so much confidence in the corners already, although I am by no means a track demon, so perhaps I am doing it wrong!
Edited by paulyv on Thursday 4th April 12:58
QuadCamCapri said:
Bought this one last year for very little, from BCA Blackbushe Auctions. This one like others came in via BCA owned 'We Buy Any Car', had to have it as looking underneath it was completely rust free, 1 owner and 58k miles.
A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
Looks fantastic, always has a soft spot for these, apart from the rust. An example like that, can only appreciate in value from now!A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
Edited by QuadCamCapri on Thursday 4th April 08:53
Any thoughts on the ridiculous carpet wheelarch liners? Can they be removed? Otherwise I'd advise using the car in dry conditions only!
paulyv said:
egor110 said:
Are you running st brakes or totally bog standard ?
Standard brakes, albeit with drilled and grooved discs, quality pads and good brake fluid. The point was really to get an unmodified car for peanuts and run it as much as I could on track...if it got dented or hit the wall then so be it as I can just go out and get another one. The fact that I have no fear of expense means I appear to be able to commit to corners to a greater degree than the somewhat more exotic machinery. I also have no worries about letting complete strangers take it out on track which in turn means I get to go in their far fancier machines. Lots of people seem to want to have a go driving the Puma and all emerge with a smile.All that said, I am rather tempted by the idea of an LSD in one of these and they inspire so much confidence in the corners already, although I am by no means a track demon, so perhaps I am doing it wrong!
Edited by paulyv on Thursday 4th April 12:58
I've never understood people spending thousands trying to get more hp when they end up with what a stock clio 1*2 would have from stock .
There's been some debate on the wheel arch liners. Many think that they're not the problem at all, and I tend to agree. If they're soaked in salt and scum they won't help, but the main issue seems to be that the inside arch and the rear wing is simply rolled together at the seam. This isn't sealed or treated, and traps moisture and crud then rots from the inside out.
More concerning and terminal is the rot that sets in around the trailing arm mounts at the rear, near the end of the sill. Mine was very crusty here but crucially not holed or thin - I've seen them go through here, and that's a killer.
More concerning and terminal is the rot that sets in around the trailing arm mounts at the rear, near the end of the sill. Mine was very crusty here but crucially not holed or thin - I've seen them go through here, and that's a killer.
This was a guy who took a shed Puma to drive across the US
http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
bangerhoarder said:
More concerning and terminal is the rot that sets in around the trailing arm mounts at the rear, near the end of the sill. Mine was very crusty here but crucially not holed or thin - I've seen them go through here, and that's a killer.
That's what killed ours off. It was an advisory on the MOT (as in, borderline, it'll need sorting next year), and I didn't even bother putting it in for a test the following year, as even a crawl underneath showed it would have failed quite badly. Yes, you can fix it by dropping the beam and replacing sheet metal, but when it involves securely and accurately locating a major suspension component, it wasn't something I fancied tackling. I'm sure a more talented welder and fabricator wouldn't have chickened out, but it was too much for me.The rusty rear arches are what these are famous for, but that's actually the least serious of the rust issues. Inner and outer sills are a much bigger problem. I welded up two small holes in the outer sills on mine, but by the time I'd cut the rot out, they were two massive holes in the outer, and two small holes in the inner. Quite a tricky repair on its own.
aaron_2000 said:
This was a guy who took a shed Puma to drive across the US
http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
Strange choice for driving in a straight line for thousands of miles.http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
QuadCamCapri said:
Bought this one last year for very little, from BCA Blackbushe Auctions. This one like others came in via BCA owned 'We Buy Any Car', had to have it as looking underneath it was completely rust free, 1 owner and 58k miles.
A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
I think your find the early ones like yours with the fan wheels are a bit less rust prone underneath than the later ones like I now have.A year later, had the interior out etc. but still found no rust anywhere, so they are about. Have now pumped Bilt&Hamber Dynax S50 in every orifice I can find.
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 4th April 08:53
I bought this one with 78k mileage 1.7 in 2016 for £300.
I bought a Green 1.7 (9 spoke) in about 2013. No rust, 40k miles IIRC. £1000 eBay auction. Changed to propeller wheels, because they look better. Both wheel styles are made of chocolate, not helped by the suspensions inability to negotiate pot holes above walking speed.
Passed it’s MOT last Summer, then SORN. Just haven’t had time to sell it. A little rust on one rear arch now, about 55k miles, overdue a cam belt. Offers over £10k, if anyone’s interested
Passed it’s MOT last Summer, then SORN. Just haven’t had time to sell it. A little rust on one rear arch now, about 55k miles, overdue a cam belt. Offers over £10k, if anyone’s interested
tannhauser said:
Sa Calobra said:
These things are great but why Ford never used decent steel or treated them is beyond me.
Because Ford are cheap-ass.soad said:
"Does the Puma have that carpet-like material lining the rear wheel arches? We had a Fiesta with that and it trapped all the dirt etc off the road, especially depositing it on the inner edge of the arches. Regular pressure washing produced piles of muck on the drive but kept the car free of rust. However, many folk, if they wash their cars at all, don't bother with underside."
Funnily enough when I had my Puma arches replaced I was advised to stop doing exactly that as blasting the liners and saturating them with water was probably the last thing it needed. I just cleared as much built up debris as I could with my hands and a soft brush as regularly as possible, easier when it was dry of course. Great little package the Puma, only recently sold mine. Felt it's age though, which in some respects was a very good thing but definitely not so good in others. Happily mine has gone to a good home and will carry on being enjoyed for some time to come all things being well.
Horsey McHorseface said:
aaron_2000 said:
This was a guy who took a shed Puma to drive across the US
http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
Strange choice for driving in a straight line for thousands of miles.http://usapuma.blogspot.com/2016/02/usa-puma.html
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