Stupid design / difficult repairs caused by "packaging"
Discussion
Fiat 500 Cabin/Pollen Filter!!!
Easy enough on the LHD version as the filter is accessible from the nice and empty passenger footwell but on the RHD version its tucked in right where the steering column is! I gave up on trying to figure it out on my GF's car as it had started raining but the I do come to do it I reckon it'll take as long as the rest of the whole service took!
Easy enough on the LHD version as the filter is accessible from the nice and empty passenger footwell but on the RHD version its tucked in right where the steering column is! I gave up on trying to figure it out on my GF's car as it had started raining but the I do come to do it I reckon it'll take as long as the rest of the whole service took!
I have an early Hinckley Triumph Trophy 900, and have recently been giving it a major mechanical overhaul in preparation my move to Ohio
Always stick K&N cleanable filters in my bikes so ordered one, it arrived and there's no access panel like there is on most bikes, the whole airbox has to come out as Triumph don't sell you a filter it's the complete airbox with filter insitu, and as any multi cylinder bike owner knows to take the airbox off the carbs have to come off first and that's a pig on most bikes, anyway TriumphRat.net show a lovely mod where you cut the rear cover of the airbox in half and it's then a piece of piss.
To Remove the Carbs on Honda's CBX1000 involves removing the exhaust system, then all but the rear lower engine mounts, you also have push the rear wheel forward in its adjuster slots to tilt the engine forward, the the reverse is even harder.
On my CB1300F I snapped a throttle cable, usually an hours work to replace on similar bikes, but not on this thing 7-8 hours work in total which involved all bodywork with the exception of the front mudguard off, Battery box, rear mudguard, then the air filter housing and the front of the airbox but to get that off you have to disconnect every electrical connecter from the headstock backwards and then draw the wiring harness through to the front of the bike all because the harness blocked the airbox, as an exercise I rang my local Honda dealer to find out how much they would've charged it was £500! all to replace a £16 part they quoted 8 hours labour.
Always stick K&N cleanable filters in my bikes so ordered one, it arrived and there's no access panel like there is on most bikes, the whole airbox has to come out as Triumph don't sell you a filter it's the complete airbox with filter insitu, and as any multi cylinder bike owner knows to take the airbox off the carbs have to come off first and that's a pig on most bikes, anyway TriumphRat.net show a lovely mod where you cut the rear cover of the airbox in half and it's then a piece of piss.
To Remove the Carbs on Honda's CBX1000 involves removing the exhaust system, then all but the rear lower engine mounts, you also have push the rear wheel forward in its adjuster slots to tilt the engine forward, the the reverse is even harder.
On my CB1300F I snapped a throttle cable, usually an hours work to replace on similar bikes, but not on this thing 7-8 hours work in total which involved all bodywork with the exception of the front mudguard off, Battery box, rear mudguard, then the air filter housing and the front of the airbox but to get that off you have to disconnect every electrical connecter from the headstock backwards and then draw the wiring harness through to the front of the bike all because the harness blocked the airbox, as an exercise I rang my local Honda dealer to find out how much they would've charged it was £500! all to replace a £16 part they quoted 8 hours labour.
chunkytfg said:
Fiat 500 Cabin/Pollen Filter!!!
Easy enough on the LHD version as the filter is accessible from the nice and empty passenger footwell but on the RHD version its tucked in right where the steering column is! I gave up on trying to figure it out on my GF's car as it had started raining but the I do come to do it I reckon it'll take as long as the rest of the whole service took!
Sounds like it's identical to the Panda. Yeah, requires bending/squeezing it to get it into the slot.Easy enough on the LHD version as the filter is accessible from the nice and empty passenger footwell but on the RHD version its tucked in right where the steering column is! I gave up on trying to figure it out on my GF's car as it had started raining but the I do come to do it I reckon it'll take as long as the rest of the whole service took!
bungz said:
Only had a very brief involvement with VAG cars but a few months with a Mk 7 golf was enough for me.
On the 1.6 CR oil burner:
- snip -
EGR valve on these also is best part of a all day job and requires the removal of the DPF and a drive shaft.
Had this engine in an 2010 Octavia and heard that the EGR valve/cooler assembly was notorious for breaking (found out after I'd bought it, of course). I got lucky, but heard of a few others paying about a grand to replace theirs. Didn't know about the coolant viscosity - ours was 10 when I got rid of it, so sounds like a lucky escape there too. Injectors failed one by one, though!On the 1.6 CR oil burner:
- snip -
EGR valve on these also is best part of a all day job and requires the removal of the DPF and a drive shaft.
It's a bit of a naff engine really - pretty laggy and economy is nothing special.
tdm34 said:
On my CB1300F I snapped a throttle cable, usually an hours work to replace on similar bikes, but not on this thing 7-8 hours work in total which involved all bodywork with the exception of the front mudguard off, Battery box, rear mudguard, then the air filter housing and the front of the airbox but to get that off you have to disconnect every electrical connecter from the headstock backwards and then draw the wiring harness through to the front of the bike all because the harness blocked the airbox, as an exercise I rang my local Honda dealer to find out how much they would've charged it was £500! all to replace a £16 part they quoted 8 hours labour.
I used to have a 1976 T140 Bonneville.The clutches are hopeless and always start slipping. But at least they are easy to sort out. I used to be able to drop the foot peg, remove the clutch cover, whip out the plates, degrease them and put everything back together in about 30 minutes. Simple.
Then I got an old BMW R100. Needless to say, the clutch started slipping. Jesus, what a job!
Petrol tank, carbs, exhaust, seat, rear wheel, swinging arm, battery, battery box, air filter and gearbox.
Bloody job took a week.
stickleback123 said:
finlo said:
Was the one she removed not full size then?
Miles easier to get a wheel off than put one on and line it up, then hold it in place while you get a couple of the bolts in place to hold it there. Easier with studs, but still much harder than taking a wheel off.I know plenty of people, and not just women, who'd have a real struggle doing that with a modern 19"+ wheel.
Pat H said:
tdm34 said:
On my CB1300F I snapped a throttle cable, usually an hours work to replace on similar bikes, but not on this thing 7-8 hours work in total which involved all bodywork with the exception of the front mudguard off, Battery box, rear mudguard, then the air filter housing and the front of the airbox but to get that off you have to disconnect every electrical connecter from the headstock backwards and then draw the wiring harness through to the front of the bike all because the harness blocked the airbox, as an exercise I rang my local Honda dealer to find out how much they would've charged it was £500! all to replace a £16 part they quoted 8 hours labour.
I used to have a 1976 T140 Bonneville.The clutches are hopeless and always start slipping. But at least they are easy to sort out. I used to be able to drop the foot peg, remove the clutch cover, whip out the plates, degrease them and put everything back together in about 30 minutes. Simple.
Then I got an old BMW R100. Needless to say, the clutch started slipping. Jesus, what a job!
Petrol tank, carbs, exhaust, seat, rear wheel, swinging arm, battery, battery box, air filter and gearbox.
Bloody job took a week.
Sorry I Can't get the photo's the right way!
Edited by tdm34 on Saturday 22 February 14:28
Edited by tdm34 on Saturday 22 February 14:29
Starfighter said:
Lower the jack a little so that the tyre is effectively on the ground and close enough to align the top bolt.
That's one way sure, but when I'm working on it at home it's usually on an axle stand, so it would mean jack up the trolley jack, remove axle stand, lower down (and that's not easy to do in small amounts with a trolley!, so back up a little at a time until one of the bolts aligns) then for safety go up again and re-install the axle stand for the rest of the procedure.A workable (but slow) solution though, starfighter, so thanks for that.
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