'used approved' Audi delivered with pitted front disks that
Discussion
andburg said:
NelsonM3 said:
A bit of heated driving over 1000 miles and that will clear up. It's clearly been sat on the forecourt a while.
rear is almost always much worse. New disks and pads timeThere’s a VW Group service procedure for cleaning the discs - basically involves a few very hard stops.
Mind you, I had ‘heavily pitted discs’ noted on a Merc (they were, as I didn’t use it much) and was told they HAD to be changed. Then they realised the car was on a Merc service contract and suddenly they were absolutely fine, it was just cosmetic. Got them changed in the end but the new ones went just the same.
Krikkit said:
NelsonM3 said:
A bit of heated driving over 1000 miles and that will clear up. It's clearly been sat on the forecourt a while.
Agreed - go out and hoof it down a slip road with a big stop from 80 a few times and see if they clean up. If not take it back to the dealer.Dealers get away with it because buyers accept shoddy work.
By all means start off with the soft approach but make a fuss, make them sort it. Only by causing them money and hassle after the sale will they correct their behaviours towards customers.
After zooming in on the pics the discs don't look pitted to me, or particularly scored, merely the result of standing in wet weather or having been forecourt washed multiple times and only moved a few yards in between.
A few long brakes from high speed, which makes sure the rears see some action too, will bring those discs up.
Or, and this would be my plan, i'd hazard a guess those brakes have never been serviced properly since the car was new because well brake servicing isn't in most servicer schedules, so (DIY if able) i would get someone competent to give the brakes a full service, whilst stripped they can give the discs a light hand sanding down, good brake maintenance pays in in the long run.
Brakes should ideally be serviced every other year at least.
The typical dealer workshop idea of service is squirting brake cleaner about, seldom removing the wheels, this isn't servicing and if anything helps remove any lubricants a real mechanic might have used last time.
A few long brakes from high speed, which makes sure the rears see some action too, will bring those discs up.
Or, and this would be my plan, i'd hazard a guess those brakes have never been serviced properly since the car was new because well brake servicing isn't in most servicer schedules, so (DIY if able) i would get someone competent to give the brakes a full service, whilst stripped they can give the discs a light hand sanding down, good brake maintenance pays in in the long run.
Brakes should ideally be serviced every other year at least.
The typical dealer workshop idea of service is squirting brake cleaner about, seldom removing the wheels, this isn't servicing and if anything helps remove any lubricants a real mechanic might have used last time.
For rears, chuck the handbrake on whilst moving. Obviously depending on whether it's electric or not affects how you do this.
Electric: Several times from a lower speed, 20mph or so. You don't have the option to apply at a lower level and so doing it at higher speed will lock the wheels and potentially causefun an accident.
Manual: Apply firmly but insufficiently to lock the brakes at a higher speed until scrapey scrapey stops. Might take a couple of goes.
I have to do this all the time having several vehicles.
Electric: Several times from a lower speed, 20mph or so. You don't have the option to apply at a lower level and so doing it at higher speed will lock the wheels and potentially cause
Manual: Apply firmly but insufficiently to lock the brakes at a higher speed until scrapey scrapey stops. Might take a couple of goes.
I have to do this all the time having several vehicles.
It's hard to tell from those photos but the discs just look like they've been standing for a while rather than any permanent damage. Perhaps get another garage to confirm the pitting before you do anything further.
Considering you've had the car 7 days I would then be going back to the supplying dealer and if they won't play then contact Audi UK. They're quite protective over the Approved Used programme.
Considering you've had the car 7 days I would then be going back to the supplying dealer and if they won't play then contact Audi UK. They're quite protective over the Approved Used programme.
Re. my earlier post - that is how mine were. Points to make, and options:
1) Complain to dealer - they may change them, but may well say ‘cosmetic’
2) Try repeated heavy braking 60 down to 20, but not to a standstill, and let them cool before parking up
3) change discs and pads
If you have some judder, then option 3 will probably be the only resolution.
Final comment, I was a light user of my brakes, now I make sure that on, say, long downhills, I use the brakes, not engine braking, to ensure the discs are cleaned up.
- they will pass MOT if retardation is not significantly affected
- they may well cause judder
- repeated heavy braking will probably not remove that, but may do so.
1) Complain to dealer - they may change them, but may well say ‘cosmetic’
2) Try repeated heavy braking 60 down to 20, but not to a standstill, and let them cool before parking up
3) change discs and pads
If you have some judder, then option 3 will probably be the only resolution.
Final comment, I was a light user of my brakes, now I make sure that on, say, long downhills, I use the brakes, not engine braking, to ensure the discs are cleaned up.
Glad it's not just me that has had a bad experience with an Audi main dealer.
Bought my 2021 E-tron from a main dealer last year as "approved used". Their 150 point check failed to notice the wheel alignment being so far out the wheel was about 10 o'clock driving in a straight line, the tyres were all set to 18PSI and the door mirror was hanging on by about 3 threads of the securing bolts. They'd also painted the door (they told me it was being done) with what looks like a foam roller and tin of Dulux.
I complained to them, "its not a brand new car sir". I complained to Audi UK, "it's a franchised dealer, nothing to do with us".
I took loads of pictures with dates on and when it goes back at the end of the PCP term, they can fix it themselves.
It's also taken 3 months, and multiple cancellations by them, to get a courtesy car available for it to be serviced and for some warranty work to be done (that wasn't picked up on the checks!).
I would never buy from an Audi main dealer again.
For the OP, phone Audi UK and explain that one of their dealers (franchise or not, it has "Audi" written above the door) has sold a car with damaged/unsafe brakes.
Bought my 2021 E-tron from a main dealer last year as "approved used". Their 150 point check failed to notice the wheel alignment being so far out the wheel was about 10 o'clock driving in a straight line, the tyres were all set to 18PSI and the door mirror was hanging on by about 3 threads of the securing bolts. They'd also painted the door (they told me it was being done) with what looks like a foam roller and tin of Dulux.
I complained to them, "its not a brand new car sir". I complained to Audi UK, "it's a franchised dealer, nothing to do with us".
I took loads of pictures with dates on and when it goes back at the end of the PCP term, they can fix it themselves.
It's also taken 3 months, and multiple cancellations by them, to get a courtesy car available for it to be serviced and for some warranty work to be done (that wasn't picked up on the checks!).
I would never buy from an Audi main dealer again.
For the OP, phone Audi UK and explain that one of their dealers (franchise or not, it has "Audi" written above the door) has sold a car with damaged/unsafe brakes.
ttest service ever.
Smint said:
After zooming in on the pics the discs don't look pitted to me, or particularly scored, merely the result of standing in wet weather or having been forecourt washed multiple times and only moved a few yards in
Hi buddy, the AA guy came yesterday and reported that the problem is because they are pitted....he also invited me to run my finger across the disk and said it should be smooth and flat, whereas it is actually several ridges and valleys. I didn't even know the word pitted before yesterday. Google tells me I could try to get them 'skimmed' locally to get them back to normal, what do you think about akimming?Sheepshanks said:
CLK-GTR said:
It's hard to tell from those photos but the discs just look like they've been standing for a while rather than any permanent damage.
I don't think they're the OPs discs?Baldchap said:
For rears, chuck the handbrake on whilst moving. Obviously depending on whether it's electric or not affects how you do this.
Electric: Several times from a lower speed, 20mph or so. You don't have the option to apply at a lower level and so doing it at higher speed will lock the wheels and potentially causefun an accident.
Manual: Apply firmly but insufficiently to lock the brakes at a higher speed until scrapey scrapey stops. Might take a couple of goes.
I have to do this all the time having several vehicles.
Thanks friend, but will this solve pitting? Or just rust? Because this situation is actuall pitting Electric: Several times from a lower speed, 20mph or so. You don't have the option to apply at a lower level and so doing it at higher speed will lock the wheels and potentially cause
Manual: Apply firmly but insufficiently to lock the brakes at a higher speed until scrapey scrapey stops. Might take a couple of goes.
I have to do this all the time having several vehicles.
thelostboy said:
Its not a warranty item, but could fail their own preparation standards. Kick up a stink, demand to see the file from whoever inspected it.
You have a good case regarding the old vs current MOT advisories - especially if the mileage has gone up noticeably with no invoices to back up any work being done to the car.
If you start the conversation with, "I think i'm going to have to reject this car..." you should find the dealer takes notice. If you leave a negative review, you will get fast tracked.
If you want to be a nice guy, have a chat with the salesperson first and ask for his help.
Thanks buddy, this feels like a sensible approachYou have a good case regarding the old vs current MOT advisories - especially if the mileage has gone up noticeably with no invoices to back up any work being done to the car.
If you start the conversation with, "I think i'm going to have to reject this car..." you should find the dealer takes notice. If you leave a negative review, you will get fast tracked.
If you want to be a nice guy, have a chat with the salesperson first and ask for his help.
wezzley said:
Hey buddy,Nye's, my wheels, another poster kindly attached them since as a new member I can't post pics. The are definitely pitted, with grooves and ridges to the touch, not smooth at all and not something that can be solved by locking the brakes. I have read about skimming as an in option, seems a lot cheaper than new pads at 300 each, what do you think?
Ah OK - TBH I also didn't think that you'd have gone to the trouble of taking the wheels off a Q8, which can't have been trivial.They do look pretty bad. Once the rust sets in it tends to wear away the pad so they never clean up and the rust spreads across the disc.
Skimming seems to ne one of those things garages say they can do but when it comes down to it they just want to change the discs. The car needs new pads either way.
Have you driven it much since you got it?
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