997 GT3 RS 3.8 known problems, issues? (Any owners, experts)
Discussion
RDMcG said:
Had one for four years, and had no problems with it, lots of tracking.
There were two important recalls:
(2) There was a small component, in the air intake that could disintegrate and fall into the engine as I recall, in which case the engine would completely crater. Minor fix for a major catastrophe.
Otherwise a great car.
The above fix is essential. You must ensure that this component has been replaced if you buy a car. If it hasnt, take it to your OPC and get it done immediately.There were two important recalls:
(2) There was a small component, in the air intake that could disintegrate and fall into the engine as I recall, in which case the engine would completely crater. Minor fix for a major catastrophe.
Otherwise a great car.
Lots.
Pin the coolant pipes first and before everything else. There were more crashes in Nurburgring caused by idiot gt3 drivers that don't do the effort of looking for possible faults than any other car. So this is first.
Then, check your cam bolts, tight them to spec (more than oem, I can't recall the tq but a indie like 9e or esmotor or parr will know) and mark them, so you see if the unbolt as they have the tendency.
If the car will do mostly track days, either convert it to a 5 lug or just inspect before and after the lug nuts. They tend to fail if the procedure (that is quite complex) is not followed when taking the wheels out.
Another problem is the little pucks in the brake caliper that tend to disintegrate and take A LOT of bite out of the brakes and to be honest I think it's the reason for the ice ABS. Solution is to swap them for metal ones, AUTOQUEST (I think it's what it's called) has them.
I think thermostats had a way of finding their way to the trash sooner than they should, but I think it was solved. Lightweight flywheel and clutch gave some problems but the 4.0 flywheel and clutch solved it.
LSD is DEAD for sure, like 100% sure. So if you are messing with the clutch or dropping the engine, just get a guards lsd. Changes the car.
Geo and alignment and you are set. If he wants mods, suspension either tractive + dsc or just go full manthey kw motorsport (wonderful and perfectly streetable) and put some headers (dundon are pretty nice in sound and power) and he will be more than set and with an actual bullet proof car and a pretty fast one.
Pin the coolant pipes first and before everything else. There were more crashes in Nurburgring caused by idiot gt3 drivers that don't do the effort of looking for possible faults than any other car. So this is first.
Then, check your cam bolts, tight them to spec (more than oem, I can't recall the tq but a indie like 9e or esmotor or parr will know) and mark them, so you see if the unbolt as they have the tendency.
If the car will do mostly track days, either convert it to a 5 lug or just inspect before and after the lug nuts. They tend to fail if the procedure (that is quite complex) is not followed when taking the wheels out.
Another problem is the little pucks in the brake caliper that tend to disintegrate and take A LOT of bite out of the brakes and to be honest I think it's the reason for the ice ABS. Solution is to swap them for metal ones, AUTOQUEST (I think it's what it's called) has them.
I think thermostats had a way of finding their way to the trash sooner than they should, but I think it was solved. Lightweight flywheel and clutch gave some problems but the 4.0 flywheel and clutch solved it.
LSD is DEAD for sure, like 100% sure. So if you are messing with the clutch or dropping the engine, just get a guards lsd. Changes the car.
Geo and alignment and you are set. If he wants mods, suspension either tractive + dsc or just go full manthey kw motorsport (wonderful and perfectly streetable) and put some headers (dundon are pretty nice in sound and power) and he will be more than set and with an actual bullet proof car and a pretty fast one.
Basically one of the known engine failures on a gen 2 3.8 RS (single fly wheel) has been the activator bolts backing out of the cams causing the timing chains to slip and resulting in a engine failure. I believe that is the issue but may have my terminology slightly wrong. Its all to do with engine harmonic that cause the bolts to back out. I never read anything about a Uk car failing in this manner but in the states there have been a few a search on Rennlist will give you better details than I can. There are quite a few ways to prevent latest oem parts, wire fasten bolt or harmonic pulley.
luigisayshello said:
Pin the coolant pipes first and before everything else. There were more crashes in Nurburgring caused by idiot gt3 drivers that don't do the effort of looking for possible faults than any other car. So this is first.
Picked up a 7.1 GT3 late last year. Pinning the coolant hoses is booked in, before it's first trip onto track. I'd heard enough to agree completely with what you say.The only slight doubt for me - and I'm doing it regardless - is whether I'd ever be able to get the car covered under the OPC used warranty in future?
blackmamba said:
My OPC wouldn’t pin - had a failure / warranty claim and they could only fix it to original spec.
That's what I'd heard. In fact, my own car has (I note from the service history) had one of the coolant hoses re-attached with the standard adhesive method. Generally, hoses hold or let go catastrophically, so I guess it's unusual for them to leak/weep, which does make me wonder how or why the need to repair was diagnosed.mm450exc said:
The only solution is to get this welded. You don't want it to go pop when you going through Eau Rouge...
Last time I spoke with JZM they had moved to the following method (knurled OEM) in preference to pinning or welding:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIl2-vBAnvk
I'd be surprised if any inspection would detect it.
Edited by colin1976 on Thursday 18th January 15:16
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