New Owner - C2 996
Discussion
GT3 centre console delete installed. Not sure it is worth the money but I do like the outcome: -
I also decided to remove the rear seats from the car. 3 bolts and they are out: -
From
To
With the spare wheel, jack, cd changer, amplifier, GT3 centre console, rear seats and the Dansk backboxes, I must be getting close to 40kg removed from the car. That should be the end of the weight saving though, as I don't want to take the car too far from OEM.
I also decided to remove the rear seats from the car. 3 bolts and they are out: -
From
To
With the spare wheel, jack, cd changer, amplifier, GT3 centre console, rear seats and the Dansk backboxes, I must be getting close to 40kg removed from the car. That should be the end of the weight saving though, as I don't want to take the car too far from OEM.
The Curn said:
The centre console delete looks good. Would you mind telling me where you bought the kit from?
Thanks.
Hi,Thanks.
I bought the parts from my local Porsche dealer. You only need 2 bits - the carpet section and a small plastic cover to go over the front of the centre console.
Page 300, part 1 (lining carpet - pick correct colour code) and part 5 (cover - B12). Note the parts are from the Boxster parts catalogue: -
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts...
Install instructions are here: -
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-9...
You need to drill the holes in the carpet section slightly bigger for it to fit over the existing centre console studs - this will be obvious during fitment.
My invoice sheet reads (Metropole Blue): -
P986.552.113.02 G1 N/STOCK Lining Metro
P986.552.241.02 A0 N/STOCK Cover Black
Edited by mmcd87 on Tuesday 16th May 23:01
The 996 parts catalogue is also very useful when getting parts from your Dealer.
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts...
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts...
Thanks appreciated. Mine is going into my specialist for some love in the next couple of weeks and I think i'll treat myself to the console delete, a coin tray to replace the knackered ashtray, and the gundo / pse hack on the back boxes.
That's providing the more mundane essentials don't add up too quickly!
That's providing the more mundane essentials don't add up too quickly!
With summer here I'm trying to use the car as much as possible, the latest highlight being a long weekend away with some mates. It's always interesting since we have different cars, though the preference seems to be between 2 manufacturers at the minute...
Convertible envy
...
Prior to the trip I'd been considering changing the engine mounts in the car, since there was no evidence they had ever been replaced and there was light signs of them being tired. After another decent drive I decided to bite the bullet, and look for some semi-solid ones as a mild upgrade.
There are plenty different opinions, brands, etc on these on all the usual forums, and arguably they all do the same job. What was initially putting me off the semi-solid type mounts was the talk of vibration in the cabin, particularly around 3k rpm. I was willing to sacrifice a bit of NVH, especially with this style of mount, but having rattles appearing all inside the car did not appeal. I was after something fast road rather than track.
There was little information online about the 9products mounts, but what appealed to me was they offer a softer 65grade bushing rather than the 75grade+ offered by the rest. I was hoping this would make them more acceptable on the road whilst still offering the benefits this type of mount offers over the fluid filled OEM type. I placed the order direct from their website and waited for the parcel to arrive...
As a start, a slight weight reduction over the old mounts...
Convertible envy
...Prior to the trip I'd been considering changing the engine mounts in the car, since there was no evidence they had ever been replaced and there was light signs of them being tired. After another decent drive I decided to bite the bullet, and look for some semi-solid ones as a mild upgrade.
There are plenty different opinions, brands, etc on these on all the usual forums, and arguably they all do the same job. What was initially putting me off the semi-solid type mounts was the talk of vibration in the cabin, particularly around 3k rpm. I was willing to sacrifice a bit of NVH, especially with this style of mount, but having rattles appearing all inside the car did not appeal. I was after something fast road rather than track.
There was little information online about the 9products mounts, but what appealed to me was they offer a softer 65grade bushing rather than the 75grade+ offered by the rest. I was hoping this would make them more acceptable on the road whilst still offering the benefits this type of mount offers over the fluid filled OEM type. I placed the order direct from their website and waited for the parcel to arrive...
As a start, a slight weight reduction over the old mounts...
A few lessons learned from installation that may help others: -
1) You need an 18mm DEEP hex socket - your standard toolkit is probably lacking this, and Halfords couldn't help me! I bought a Draper one. Ideally get a 6 point but I used a 12 and all was ok.
2) When you support the engine with the jack, it helps to support it more to the side of the mount that is being removed - setting the jack in the middle for the 2 mounts makes it more difficult.
3) Have some wipes, etc to clean the spot where the old mount was sitting / new mount will be installed in the engine bay.
4) Some guides mention an emissions pump to remove on the left side of the engine bay. My car did not have this.
Installation is not hard if you are used to basic spannering. To install, I decided to reverse the car on ramps to get decent access. This amount of clearance is not really necessary, but definitely helps if the old mounts are hard to remove! I used a decent offcut of timber between the jack and engine to spread the load.
It is important to note that the engine hangs off the old engine mounts - it does not sit on them. When removing the old mounts, you must remove the lower 18mm hex bolt first (the one under the car).
The old mounts were not too bad to remove, but both of mine broke in such a way that I do not think they would be reusable. When I used a wrench on the 18mm nut, there were a few shrieks from the mount and after a load of turns on the wrench, the stud had completely unscrewed from the mount (and broken off from inside the housing)!
The old mount (original part I believe)
The 2 parts I was left with after removal
This actually worked out better for me, as it allowed me to screw 2 x M12 nuts on the other end of the stud to help get the OEM nut off to reuse (with help of some WD40).
What you are presented with in the engine bay when the old mount is removed. Note the square 'keyway' that is referenced during most removal / install instructions. Top bolts are 13mm hex to get the mount out / reinstall.
The end result
Initial results are very positive. Only a 'slight' change in NVH across the entire rev range (as you would expect since the engine is now more directly bolted to the car) - this is more a slight change in engine note than anything else. There appears to be no additional vibration or rattles at any engine RPM range or load. No new buzzing noises! There is less slack in the drivetrain when coming on / off throttle, making the car feel more responsive. Gearchange is definitely better, one of the biggest improvements with the change feeling much tighter and easier overall.
I'll update after a few more decent drives, but for now the 9products 65grade mounts feel like an excellent compromise for a road car if you want an upgrade from OEM to give a more responsive drive, but without some of the more extreme disadvantages of the harder bushed mounts.
1) You need an 18mm DEEP hex socket - your standard toolkit is probably lacking this, and Halfords couldn't help me! I bought a Draper one. Ideally get a 6 point but I used a 12 and all was ok.
2) When you support the engine with the jack, it helps to support it more to the side of the mount that is being removed - setting the jack in the middle for the 2 mounts makes it more difficult.
3) Have some wipes, etc to clean the spot where the old mount was sitting / new mount will be installed in the engine bay.
4) Some guides mention an emissions pump to remove on the left side of the engine bay. My car did not have this.
Installation is not hard if you are used to basic spannering. To install, I decided to reverse the car on ramps to get decent access. This amount of clearance is not really necessary, but definitely helps if the old mounts are hard to remove! I used a decent offcut of timber between the jack and engine to spread the load.
It is important to note that the engine hangs off the old engine mounts - it does not sit on them. When removing the old mounts, you must remove the lower 18mm hex bolt first (the one under the car).
The old mounts were not too bad to remove, but both of mine broke in such a way that I do not think they would be reusable. When I used a wrench on the 18mm nut, there were a few shrieks from the mount and after a load of turns on the wrench, the stud had completely unscrewed from the mount (and broken off from inside the housing)!
The old mount (original part I believe)
The 2 parts I was left with after removal
This actually worked out better for me, as it allowed me to screw 2 x M12 nuts on the other end of the stud to help get the OEM nut off to reuse (with help of some WD40).
What you are presented with in the engine bay when the old mount is removed. Note the square 'keyway' that is referenced during most removal / install instructions. Top bolts are 13mm hex to get the mount out / reinstall.
The end result
Initial results are very positive. Only a 'slight' change in NVH across the entire rev range (as you would expect since the engine is now more directly bolted to the car) - this is more a slight change in engine note than anything else. There appears to be no additional vibration or rattles at any engine RPM range or load. No new buzzing noises! There is less slack in the drivetrain when coming on / off throttle, making the car feel more responsive. Gearchange is definitely better, one of the biggest improvements with the change feeling much tighter and easier overall.
I'll update after a few more decent drives, but for now the 9products 65grade mounts feel like an excellent compromise for a road car if you want an upgrade from OEM to give a more responsive drive, but without some of the more extreme disadvantages of the harder bushed mounts.
Edited by mmcd87 on Wednesday 28th June 10:57
Engine mounts are still in the car and I think anyone would struggle to tell they are not stock apart from the tighter gearshift. Money well spent I think!
I had a 'small' issue with one of my wheel locking nuts that it broke the key trying to remove it! I went to my local OPC and after they went away with the key for quite a while, I was told that they could not find a match for it in their set... New locking key and 4 studs would have been £60, plus labour...
I went on eBay and got 4 standard non-locking studs from a breakers yard for £10 delivered.
A bit of creativity with a 22mm socket, a dremel and a big hammer and the offending item was off, and the wheel untouched.
Whilst at OPC I had a good look around a new 991.2, and a 993 C4. Interesting that both these cars were listed at £90k+. The 993 is definitely the best looking of the 911's in my opinion, but I couldn't believe how badly offset the pedals and steering wheel were to the centre of the car! How a 993 is worth so much, and a 996 a few years newer so little, is quite baffling. You can see how the 996 is the older version of the 991 car, it feels very similar to sit in, same DNA. Made me feel quite smug sitting in my car after I left. I wouldn't say no to a 993 Turbo though if I could afford it
I had a 'small' issue with one of my wheel locking nuts that it broke the key trying to remove it! I went to my local OPC and after they went away with the key for quite a while, I was told that they could not find a match for it in their set... New locking key and 4 studs would have been £60, plus labour...
I went on eBay and got 4 standard non-locking studs from a breakers yard for £10 delivered.
A bit of creativity with a 22mm socket, a dremel and a big hammer and the offending item was off, and the wheel untouched.
Whilst at OPC I had a good look around a new 991.2, and a 993 C4. Interesting that both these cars were listed at £90k+. The 993 is definitely the best looking of the 911's in my opinion, but I couldn't believe how badly offset the pedals and steering wheel were to the centre of the car! How a 993 is worth so much, and a 996 a few years newer so little, is quite baffling. You can see how the 996 is the older version of the 991 car, it feels very similar to sit in, same DNA. Made me feel quite smug sitting in my car after I left. I wouldn't say no to a 993 Turbo though if I could afford it
The driving position of the 993 is a bit comedic, really.
I was in some ways pleasantly surprised, and in many ways disappointed when I drove one. Steering heavier and slower, engine not as awesome as I thought it might be (albeit lovely sounding, with a great intake roar). They look stunning, without doubt, but a nicely sorted 996 will run rings around them on the road.
I still wouldn't say no to a nice clean 993 C2, though!
I was in some ways pleasantly surprised, and in many ways disappointed when I drove one. Steering heavier and slower, engine not as awesome as I thought it might be (albeit lovely sounding, with a great intake roar). They look stunning, without doubt, but a nicely sorted 996 will run rings around them on the road.
I still wouldn't say no to a nice clean 993 C2, though!
Filibuster said:
@mmcd87 thanks for a great thread!
Especially for the part on the engine mounts, as I was contemplating the 9Products ones for myself. You pretty much sold me the 65 Soft ones, thanks.
That said, how are you feeling about them 6 months on?
Thanks, I spend a lot of time on here so it's nice to give something back people read. I'm planning a suspension refresh soon - just doing my research.Especially for the part on the engine mounts, as I was contemplating the 9Products ones for myself. You pretty much sold me the 65 Soft ones, thanks.
That said, how are you feeling about them 6 months on?
I can't fault the engine mounts, they tightened everything up as promised with no drawbacks at all as far as I can tell. They are a bit expensive, but seem well made and the rubber grade they use seems perfect for a road car when you just want a touch more focus than OEM. I'm tempted by a Powerflex gearbox insert now to complement them but still undecided if it would be a step too far. I believe Powerflex changed their design a bit and they are now much less harsh.
I have just rebuilt my engine - top end after a crack on cyl.1. Engine is back in and soak tests so far all is good. Also, gradually replacing various components as my mounts are shot. I went for Rennline mounts that can be tweaked for street to race - ordered direct with a 15% discount over xmas + import tax, still works out cheaper than UK offerings.
Also fitted the powerflex gearbox mount and shall monitor once it's back on the road.
Also fitted the powerflex gearbox mount and shall monitor once it's back on the road.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff