Want to put longer Seat runner bolts in

Want to put longer Seat runner bolts in

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CHIMV8 500

Original Poster:

2,768 posts

221 months

Saturday 20th January 2018
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May be simple answer but..

how can i get the bolt at the front out,as it desnt go far enough to drop out

One at the rear is ok

phillpot

17,113 posts

183 months

Saturday 20th January 2018
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If you get the runner as far forward as possible the bolt will just about wiggle out at an angle once the nuts are off (obviously) .

ianwayne

6,277 posts

268 months

Saturday 20th January 2018
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Failing that, you can remove the runners themselves from the body of the seat first. Note that there is a nut and bolt through one runner to restrict the rear movement of the seat. Removing this may help too.

The runners are held on with nuts and bolts that are fiddly to get to but it is doable. You need to do it with the seat the right way up if possible or you'll be trying to fetch nuts and washers from inside the seat foam. Ask me how I know.......

N7GTX

7,854 posts

143 months

Saturday 20th January 2018
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^^^^^ As above, Push the runner as far forward as you can then tap the runner with a hammer to make sure its at the end. With all the nuts off, you can tilt the bolt just far enough to be able to knock it out.

QBee

20,948 posts

144 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
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Note to those with Tuscan seats......no way can you extract the rear bolts from the runners. You have to drill a core out of the corner of the fibreglass seat frame to get a spanner on the nut for the bolt that holds the runner to the seat, loosen and twist the runner.

My seats came with bent short bolts and I wanted long straight bolts. So I called D&C trim to check this, and they confirmed it. Much to my surprise..... TVR must have assembled the seat base and runners before fitting the seat to them.

CHIMV8 500

Original Poster:

2,768 posts

221 months

Sunday 21st January 2018
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Thanks all for the feedback

CHIMV8 500

Original Poster:

2,768 posts

221 months

Monday 29th January 2018
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N7GTX said:
^^^^^ As above, Push the runner as far forward as you can then tap the runner with a hammer to make sure its at the end. With all the nuts off, you can tilt the bolt just far enough to be able to knock it out.
Worked a treat thanks for the info

black_potato

282 posts

239 months

Monday 29th January 2018
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And the point of this is ? lifting the seat a few CM ?

I'd quite like to do the same for my son but I worry a little about the safety. On the plus side all the seat belt fixings are into the car and nothing goes into the seat... on the down side there must still be some increased leverage and the seats are only held in by a few washers the other side of the fibreglass.

QBee

20,948 posts

144 months

Monday 29th January 2018
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Mine are bolted through steel.
I made sure of that when I fitted the Tuscan seats.
Front bolts through the outrigger triangles.
Rear bolts though some steel strips welded for the purpose to the outriggers when the chassis was refurbished by Mat Smith.

N7GTX

7,854 posts

143 months

Monday 29th January 2018
quotequote all
black_potato said:
And the point of this is ? lifting the seat a few CM ?

I'd quite like to do the same for my son but I worry a little about the safety. On the plus side all the seat belt fixings are into the car and nothing goes into the seat... on the down side there must still be some increased leverage and the seats are only held in by a few washers the other side of the fibreglass.
Yes, understand your concerns but safety is never going to be 2018 NCAP 5 star on a 90's fibreglass car. No crumple zones, ABS or airbags so I think you are always going to be at a higher risk?

I used aloominum 1" (25mm) square tube from Wickes and drilled 2 holes in each piece and fitted them laterally under the seats. You will need longer bolts of course and high tensile will be stronger.

mk1fan

10,516 posts

225 months

Monday 29th January 2018
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QBee said:
Note to those with Tuscan seats......no way can you extract the rear bolts from the runners. You have to drill a core out of the corner of the fibreglass seat frame to get a spanner on the nut for the bolt that holds the runner to the seat, loosen and twist the runner.

My seats came with bent short bolts and I wanted long straight bolts. So I called D&C trim to check this, and they confirmed it. Much to my surprise..... TVR must have assembled the seat base and runners before fitting the seat to them.
Handy to know.

Philup

49 posts

144 months

Tuesday 30th January 2018
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I fitted these off the shelf items: https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-u...
Easy job
Phil

ianwayne

6,277 posts

268 months

Tuesday 30th January 2018
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Those are the standard raiser blocks used on the driver's side. The OP wishes to raise the passenger seat I believe, so these would work with 2 x M8 nuts, but would require 2 new holes in the floor.

Pictures above show extra nuts put on the shaft which would put excessive pressure on the floor unless large washers have been used as well.

lancepar

1,015 posts

172 months

Tuesday 30th January 2018
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I found the same blocks in the many boxes of parts I have to reassemble, Another ID sorted ..........Cheers

cool

black_potato

282 posts

239 months

Tuesday 30th January 2018
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on my griff seats I have these at the front both sides.

I think after firming up the base I will just add 1 more nut as I can do that on the existing thread as quite a bit protrudes through the floor. I'll then use big repair washers both sides. If and when I need to get the outriggers done I think I will have some steel welded across.

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

149 months

Tuesday 30th January 2018
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^^^^^ this.
If the seat belt anchor points are sound the seat is unlikely to get pulled through the floor in any case thumbup

CHIMV8 500

Original Poster:

2,768 posts

221 months

Thursday 1st February 2018
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Just plant a 19 stone backside on it and it won’t budge!!