Body off questions
Discussion
I’ve got a car that’s nearly A1 condition ( my own estimation 
) but I fear the chassis is rusty.
Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them and you can’t even get a thin tool along them properly to check on mine so I’ve decided I have to check and fix whatever I find.
As I’ve replaced much that bolts on to the chassis already I’m expecting to remove and then remount everything without much drama.
So with removal of the four corners/ engine/gearbox and Diff out so leaving me with a chassis and I’ve got chassis repairs in hand so welding etc can be discounted from my list.
What should I be looking at replacing that I’m bound to be forgetting.
Brake and fuel lines.
Bushes.
Cable ties
Bolt kit
Wheel bearings although mine are sound and one already replaced.
Gearbox/Dif mounts
Engine bay and front end had a new bolt kit so don’t need that.
New exhaust tray as mines ratty.
I’m trying to do this on the lowest budget by having as usual good friends around me with skill I don’t possess. I have a mate who will weld gussets and anything I like for small change.
So it’s just what else is likely to cause cost that I’m not seeing.
Advice dearly appreciated.
I always knew I’d bloody do this,,, but it’s the right decision for me and whoever might own it in the future, so here goes
ETA this has come about not because I think I need riggers, more my top chassis rails that run along side the cyl heads and hot exhaust were not protected until about 3 years ago,when I rubbed them down and re painted them as Powder coat had long since disappeared. This is the area that’s the problem.
I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it.
I was close to selling the car until this but in my heart always had some doubts and honestly I might not do this again so just completing a circle I started 8 years ago but using my noggin rather than just my cheque book,,,
Wish me luck.
A pic of a nearly car,,,,
I’ve nearly finished it
) but I fear the chassis is rusty.Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them and you can’t even get a thin tool along them properly to check on mine so I’ve decided I have to check and fix whatever I find.
As I’ve replaced much that bolts on to the chassis already I’m expecting to remove and then remount everything without much drama.
So with removal of the four corners/ engine/gearbox and Diff out so leaving me with a chassis and I’ve got chassis repairs in hand so welding etc can be discounted from my list.
What should I be looking at replacing that I’m bound to be forgetting.
Brake and fuel lines.
Bushes.
Cable ties
Bolt kit
Wheel bearings although mine are sound and one already replaced.
Gearbox/Dif mounts
Engine bay and front end had a new bolt kit so don’t need that.
New exhaust tray as mines ratty.
I’m trying to do this on the lowest budget by having as usual good friends around me with skill I don’t possess. I have a mate who will weld gussets and anything I like for small change.
So it’s just what else is likely to cause cost that I’m not seeing.
Advice dearly appreciated.
I always knew I’d bloody do this,,, but it’s the right decision for me and whoever might own it in the future, so here goes
ETA this has come about not because I think I need riggers, more my top chassis rails that run along side the cyl heads and hot exhaust were not protected until about 3 years ago,when I rubbed them down and re painted them as Powder coat had long since disappeared. This is the area that’s the problem.
I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it.
I was close to selling the car until this but in my heart always had some doubts and honestly I might not do this again so just completing a circle I started 8 years ago but using my noggin rather than just my cheque book,,,
Wish me luck.
A pic of a nearly car,,,,
I’ve nearly finished it Edited by Classic Chim on Wednesday 23 May 15:36
Before committing to the lift, have a good poke around the nearside outrigger at the front. There is a 3 way junction between the outrigger and the two transverse tubes, one horizontal going to the lower main chassis rail and other at an angle going higher up onto the chassis.
This is where stone chips take place and mud accumulates from the near side front wheel. Every "bad" chassis I have seen has been bad there, so have a good poke about where those three bits of tube join. You can actually see from above and below, so the only part of the outrigger you can see from above (apart from the same location at the rear). You may have a nasty shock and think "body off over due" or you may think "actually, there is nothing wrong with this".
My philosophy when the body was off was to change every bit of rubber that was original. The obvious things missing from your list are engine mounts and coolant hoses, but that may be because you have already done them. I would check the clutch while the engine is off the chassis, as it is so easy to change at that point that unless it is almost new it is probably daft not to do it. As a minimum I think that is about it, but you will inevitably come across things as you take it apart and think "something else to replace when it goes back together" As well as bushes I did track rod ends and drop links, but where do you draw the line? I was changing things as the car had sat for 12 years so everything was between 12 and 25 years old and a little perished. If your car has been in regular use, you will be changing things as they are worn out, although I suspect that your car has been well cared for so many things will already have been replaced in the recent past and may well be fine.
This is where stone chips take place and mud accumulates from the near side front wheel. Every "bad" chassis I have seen has been bad there, so have a good poke about where those three bits of tube join. You can actually see from above and below, so the only part of the outrigger you can see from above (apart from the same location at the rear). You may have a nasty shock and think "body off over due" or you may think "actually, there is nothing wrong with this".
My philosophy when the body was off was to change every bit of rubber that was original. The obvious things missing from your list are engine mounts and coolant hoses, but that may be because you have already done them. I would check the clutch while the engine is off the chassis, as it is so easy to change at that point that unless it is almost new it is probably daft not to do it. As a minimum I think that is about it, but you will inevitably come across things as you take it apart and think "something else to replace when it goes back together" As well as bushes I did track rod ends and drop links, but where do you draw the line? I was changing things as the car had sat for 12 years so everything was between 12 and 25 years old and a little perished. If your car has been in regular use, you will be changing things as they are worn out, although I suspect that your car has been well cared for so many things will already have been replaced in the recent past and may well be fine.
Cheers boys, need the humour as I’m close to cutting a fuel line,,,,,,
Thanks Dunc.
Yes engine mounts were new and still sit high, clutch last year so close to what you say.
Heat shielding for engine bay a good one.
As would be some protection of top main rails around engine area.
after seeing a chassis blasted and some of the Tvr welds,,,, I’d do better let alone my mate, he will scream when he sees them
I better start reading up on lifting the body off.
Thanks Dunc.
Yes engine mounts were new and still sit high, clutch last year so close to what you say.
Heat shielding for engine bay a good one.
As would be some protection of top main rails around engine area.
after seeing a chassis blasted and some of the Tvr welds,,,, I’d do better let alone my mate, he will scream when he sees them
I better start reading up on lifting the body off.
Yes, heat shielding is a good call. I also changed all the heater hoses and vent piping but you may already have done that.
I coated mine in wax just before the body went on. Many people prefer it to look shiny, but since no one will be able to see or get to the outriggers for the next couple of decades I wanted to give them the best possible protection.
Budget for loads of little things along the way, both in time and money. As well as the bolt kits available from suppliers, I just ordered a shed load of nuts and bolts which had quite a significant cost, but I wasn't going to be putting old ones back.
How is your handbrake cable? Good time to change it unless it has been done.
I also fitted an Anderson plug as it was so easy to run the cables when I had access (&it was something I had always wanted to do) as well as tidy up all the wiring in general (something else that seemed poor on my car, but may just have been TVR standard).
I have almost finished mine and am happy to answer any questions you have. On quiet days I may be looking at the internet, but when I am busy I may go for several weeks without looking on here so send me a pm.
I am sure Lee will help you as well. He has done the easy bit........
I coated mine in wax just before the body went on. Many people prefer it to look shiny, but since no one will be able to see or get to the outriggers for the next couple of decades I wanted to give them the best possible protection.
Budget for loads of little things along the way, both in time and money. As well as the bolt kits available from suppliers, I just ordered a shed load of nuts and bolts which had quite a significant cost, but I wasn't going to be putting old ones back.
How is your handbrake cable? Good time to change it unless it has been done.
I also fitted an Anderson plug as it was so easy to run the cables when I had access (&it was something I had always wanted to do) as well as tidy up all the wiring in general (something else that seemed poor on my car, but may just have been TVR standard).
I have almost finished mine and am happy to answer any questions you have. On quiet days I may be looking at the internet, but when I am busy I may go for several weeks without looking on here so send me a pm.
I am sure Lee will help you as well. He has done the easy bit........
If you are doing a partial lift, you may was well do a full lift.
It is not a lot of extra work and will give far better access for any outrigger work that is required as well as fuel and brake pipes.
Also gives you a chance to give it a clean up and paint, although this is the stage that most people then go for a full strip down and send the chassis away to be blasted and coated professionally.
It is not a lot of extra work and will give far better access for any outrigger work that is required as well as fuel and brake pipes.
Also gives you a chance to give it a clean up and paint, although this is the stage that most people then go for a full strip down and send the chassis away to be blasted and coated professionally.
Classic Chim said:
I’ll confirm that when I’ve looked closer with my welder mate. If not then I’d just do riggers with a partial lift.
Plan for the worst
Expect the best
For all I know the riggers may be sound enough too but until you’ve seen them fully exposed it’s hard to say.
Full body lift Is the only way to go. Chassis welds will be rusted everywhere......I guarantee it.Plan for the worst
Expect the best
For all I know the riggers may be sound enough too but until you’ve seen them fully exposed it’s hard to say.
Here is a link to my endeavours a few years back.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Here is a link to help protect the chassis rails below the manifolds.
I did initially wrap them after my chassis refurb, but a failed engine mount sat the manifold on the chassis rail for quite a while and I only realised when the heat transfer also melted the top poly wishbone bush
Link here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by TJC46 on Thursday 24th May 12:30
Classic Chim said:
........ETA this has come about not because I think I need riggers, more my top chassis rails that run along side the cyl heads and hot exhaust were not protected until about 3 years ago,when I rubbed them down and re painted them as Powder coat had long since disappeared. This is the area that’s the problem.
I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it. .............
Be aware that the top tube has a bend in it and that whole section will need to be replaced if badly pitted. You need the proper bending machine for this. We have a 'pipe bender' but it just crunches the inside of the bend as it is designed for thicker wall pipe. We have to take sections of pipe to a local custom motorbike guy and get the bends done.I can’t see how that can be replaced properly without removing body. One tube that once access is gained will be replaced with an hr or two work but requiring a lot of work to get at it. .............
Steve
Has anyone had any luck trying an endoscope chassis inspection?
It may be tricky to introduce the endoscope from below, but surely a strategically placed and nicely grommet sealed hole in the fiberglass floor isn't the end of the world? After all this grommet sealed hole will be completely hidden under the carpet anyway, and many cars have just such grommet covered holes in their floor pans to aid drainage should the footwells become flooded for some reason.
I know drilling holes in the floor is a sin but a well placed small hole or two can be easily and very neatly finished with a rubber closing grommet, these access points then give you the option to complete annual endoscope checks of the vulnerable outrigger corners, they would even provide points to pressure wash out the dirt and apply de-watering and the quality Dinitrol wax treatments from above that I've used with great results for many years.
Endoscopes were once expensive things, these days you can buy one that hooks up to your laptop and has it's own LED camera light for as little as a tenner....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Endoscope-5-5mm-LED-Sna...
Discuss..
...... 
It may be tricky to introduce the endoscope from below, but surely a strategically placed and nicely grommet sealed hole in the fiberglass floor isn't the end of the world? After all this grommet sealed hole will be completely hidden under the carpet anyway, and many cars have just such grommet covered holes in their floor pans to aid drainage should the footwells become flooded for some reason.
I know drilling holes in the floor is a sin but a well placed small hole or two can be easily and very neatly finished with a rubber closing grommet, these access points then give you the option to complete annual endoscope checks of the vulnerable outrigger corners, they would even provide points to pressure wash out the dirt and apply de-watering and the quality Dinitrol wax treatments from above that I've used with great results for many years.
Endoscopes were once expensive things, these days you can buy one that hooks up to your laptop and has it's own LED camera light for as little as a tenner....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Endoscope-5-5mm-LED-Sna...
Discuss..
...... You would have to drill the hole directly above the outrigger and then you would only be able to see exactly where you drilled the hole.
If you were going to fit a, say, 20 mm grommet you wouldn't need an endoscope to see the condition where you drilled the hole.
I am not sure there would be room to stick the endoscope through the hole and then along the outrigger? I suspect the clearance between the body and the outrigger would be too small for the endoscope, in which case you will only be able to see where you made the hole. On my chassis at least, the outriggers were patchy, so depending on where exactly the hole had been drilled, you could see a very different picture to had you drilled it a few inches away. It would be interesting for someone to try it and see if there was room to get an endoscope up, but I would be surprised if there was.
As an aside, I was very disappointed with the performance of a "cheap, plug it into your laptop" endoscope I used recently. Then again, I am used to using decent high quality ones.
If you were going to fit a, say, 20 mm grommet you wouldn't need an endoscope to see the condition where you drilled the hole.
I am not sure there would be room to stick the endoscope through the hole and then along the outrigger? I suspect the clearance between the body and the outrigger would be too small for the endoscope, in which case you will only be able to see where you made the hole. On my chassis at least, the outriggers were patchy, so depending on where exactly the hole had been drilled, you could see a very different picture to had you drilled it a few inches away. It would be interesting for someone to try it and see if there was room to get an endoscope up, but I would be surprised if there was.
As an aside, I was very disappointed with the performance of a "cheap, plug it into your laptop" endoscope I used recently. Then again, I am used to using decent high quality ones.
Cheap endoscopes may not offer brilliant resolution compared with a professional one, I think it's a case of.... 'What do you expect for a tenner'? Saying that if they are good enough to do the job, a tenner is all you need to spend. If these cheapy endoscopes do prove inadequate for the job (which I doubt), I'm sure spending a bit more would get you something significantly better.
To be honest the quality of endoscopes is somewhat of a distraction because we all know good quality ones are available and everyone knows they are used with great effect in a broad range of professions, what I'm trying to discuss here is the concept of an endoscopic chassis inspection which surely has considerable merit and deserves to be explored further..... because the benefits are clear!
The OP started this post by saying.....
Surely all of the above warrants exploring the development a far cheaper, simpler and faster method of inspection, and it's not like the technology doesn't exist to make this possible. Lets not forget what we are talking about here is a straightforward inspection of some mild steel tubes that have an easily drilled and grommeted fiberglass body sitting on top of them, if you gave that challenge to say a professional Offshore Inspection Engineer and told him he couldn't lift the body he'd have a proper full report with supporting images sitting on your desk that afternoon.
What I'm challenging here, and to the benefit of the OP/Us All, is this statement......
Given the significant investment in lifting the body sufficiently just to inspect the condition of a few steel tubes, surely there's a very strong argument for developing a less expensive and time consuming inspection process, like I say if you gave the challenge to a professional inspection engineer I'm sure he'd find a solution and have a report prepared for you in no time at all, and I'm absolutely certain it would hardly be the biggest challenge of his career.
Pulling all this back to the OP's first statement, he simply seeks to inspect his chassis before committing to an expensive and a time consuming restoration, which TBH is a perfectly logical and reasonable expectation and one we all share, I'm merely challenging the statement that the only way to so is to lift the body 4 inches, surely it's not beyond the whit of man to come up with a better inspection solution than that?
In engineering we look to develop a solution to overcome a challenge, we do do not start by saying 'that would never work' and 'the accepted method is the only way it can be done'.
To be honest the quality of endoscopes is somewhat of a distraction because we all know good quality ones are available and everyone knows they are used with great effect in a broad range of professions, what I'm trying to discuss here is the concept of an endoscopic chassis inspection which surely has considerable merit and deserves to be explored further..... because the benefits are clear!
The OP started this post by saying.....
Classic Chim said:
Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them and you can’t even get a thin tool along them properly to check on mine so I’ve decided I have to check and fix whatever I find.
What I'm saying is.....ChimpOnGas said:
Has anyone had any luck trying an endoscope chassis inspection?
The medical application of this tool is well known, but for many years engineers have also been using endoscopes to inspect highly inaccessible areas of building structures, sewers, engine internals ect ect ect. Clearly there's a significant financial and time investment in lifting the body of a Chimaera even just 4 inches, indeed as the OP quite rightly points out once you've done so there's a strong argument just to carry on and complete the chassis restoration anyway, even if what's discovered isn't actually too bad in the end.Surely all of the above warrants exploring the development a far cheaper, simpler and faster method of inspection, and it's not like the technology doesn't exist to make this possible. Lets not forget what we are talking about here is a straightforward inspection of some mild steel tubes that have an easily drilled and grommeted fiberglass body sitting on top of them, if you gave that challenge to say a professional Offshore Inspection Engineer and told him he couldn't lift the body he'd have a proper full report with supporting images sitting on your desk that afternoon.
What I'm challenging here, and to the benefit of the OP/Us All, is this statement......
Classic Chim said:
Without a minimum of a 4 inch body lift it’s impossible for a specialist to check areas of riggers as body sits on top of them.
No one is suggesting there isn't a well documented endemic chassis corrosion problem with these cars, but along with all the horror story photos of rotten outriggers it's not uncommon to see posts from owners that say... 'Well I lifted the body and it wasn't as bad as I expected'. Admittedly these are nearly always the earlier silver/grey chassis which lasts way better than the dreadful flaky white powder coat that appeared from 97 on, but many of these earlier car body lifts show pictures of light surface rust, the type of limited corrosion if the owner could have observed it before lifting the body may have lead them to say...... 'That can go a few more years before I really need to invest in lifting the body and completing a full chassis restoration'.Given the significant investment in lifting the body sufficiently just to inspect the condition of a few steel tubes, surely there's a very strong argument for developing a less expensive and time consuming inspection process, like I say if you gave the challenge to a professional inspection engineer I'm sure he'd find a solution and have a report prepared for you in no time at all, and I'm absolutely certain it would hardly be the biggest challenge of his career.
Pulling all this back to the OP's first statement, he simply seeks to inspect his chassis before committing to an expensive and a time consuming restoration, which TBH is a perfectly logical and reasonable expectation and one we all share, I'm merely challenging the statement that the only way to so is to lift the body 4 inches, surely it's not beyond the whit of man to come up with a better inspection solution than that?
In engineering we look to develop a solution to overcome a challenge, we do do not start by saying 'that would never work' and 'the accepted method is the only way it can be done'.
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Saturday 26th May 07:37
Everyone tells me my '94 must be a pile of rust now. Don't use the black oily stuff they say. Hmmm.....
So after reading the horror stories I bought one of those cheap little plug-into-your-laptop mini cameras. It gives a very average view but, it does fit along the top of the outriggers. I used a welding rod and taped the camera to it so I could manoeuvre it along the tubes.
Firstly I could not see any obvious holes where the tin worm had done its best. So then I spent ages pushing the camera along the top of the outriggers starting at the front corners. Couldn't see anything obvious. After pushing and pulling it in all directions could not find holes or damage.
So then removed the camera and using the welding rod, made a little hook in the end and dragged that back and forward in case I had missed a rusty hole. Still nothing.
So then used a long screwdriver and placed it on top of the front corners. Using the body as the lever point, I pressed down onto the outrigger expecting the tip to break down any rusted stuff and reveal the dreaded corrosion. Happy to say, at this time, that it all appears to be quite solid.
In the history file, there are invoices from previous owners who have had the chassis waxoyled/treated/undersealed on a regular basis. It seems this may have helped together with the belief that the earlier chassis was better quality.
@ COG, good idea I think. If I was very doubtful about the condition of mine, before going to all the trouble of a full lift, I would drill directly into the chassis rail itself from underneath about 4" from the corners. The hole would allow you to see the top of the outriggers near the corners where it seems most rust starts and are the worst places. Drilling the outrigger would not be a problem as if it is corroded you will be replacing it anyway. If all is good, treat it with rust stuff, seal the edges and either weld it closed or fit a bung/grommet and seal it up.
So after reading the horror stories I bought one of those cheap little plug-into-your-laptop mini cameras. It gives a very average view but, it does fit along the top of the outriggers. I used a welding rod and taped the camera to it so I could manoeuvre it along the tubes.
Firstly I could not see any obvious holes where the tin worm had done its best. So then I spent ages pushing the camera along the top of the outriggers starting at the front corners. Couldn't see anything obvious. After pushing and pulling it in all directions could not find holes or damage.
So then removed the camera and using the welding rod, made a little hook in the end and dragged that back and forward in case I had missed a rusty hole. Still nothing.
So then used a long screwdriver and placed it on top of the front corners. Using the body as the lever point, I pressed down onto the outrigger expecting the tip to break down any rusted stuff and reveal the dreaded corrosion. Happy to say, at this time, that it all appears to be quite solid.
In the history file, there are invoices from previous owners who have had the chassis waxoyled/treated/undersealed on a regular basis. It seems this may have helped together with the belief that the earlier chassis was better quality.
@ COG, good idea I think. If I was very doubtful about the condition of mine, before going to all the trouble of a full lift, I would drill directly into the chassis rail itself from underneath about 4" from the corners. The hole would allow you to see the top of the outriggers near the corners where it seems most rust starts and are the worst places. Drilling the outrigger would not be a problem as if it is corroded you will be replacing it anyway. If all is good, treat it with rust stuff, seal the edges and either weld it closed or fit a bung/grommet and seal it up.
My point about requiring a lift is because the body sits almost or actually on top of the riggers aspecially the l/h side right about where they rot near the front.
So a camera inside the tube will hopefully show daylight or holes but if it’s corroded but not gone through as such you’ll reveal nothing.
I like The screwdriver idea and pushing down as that will give me some idea of strength.
I swing from assuming it will all be rottin based on the STORIES of late chassis to thinking it’s probably fine and this is more about knowing what I’ve got. Every test they’ve had from mot men and a good mate it’s always passed but that doesn’t mean much.
If I choose to sell the car I have to be able to say with honestly how it is,,, and that’s without rotten chassis parts.
I’m in a position where I sell the car now and loose a fortune or do the chassis myself and loose a smaller fortune,,,, but fortunes change so maybe a year down the line when I’ve got this done I’ll have no intention of selling it.
The riggers are the riggers, it’s the top tubes I’m more concerned about because that can’t be repaired with body on so with that in mind I’m going to remove front wheels and possibly a manifold to take a proper look and try some strength tests. If it passes that then maybe I’ll get away with riggers or just a re paint.
The camera idea as all the advice above is all good and let’s face it if you have to or wish to sell one without rigger replacement you need good evidence as to there condition.
Ok some chassis are in a bad way,,,,,,, usually the very old ones and I’ve seen riggers from cars around 95/96 totally destroyed so the new chassis old chassis thing is not strictly correct. My late chassis as is another car produced with the white powder coat with 50,000 miles on the clock and just like mine, main sections and top tubes are in good condition and there’s very little if any loss of powder coat. On any car this old now it’s all down to if they had chassis protection long before now.
Infact another 2000 year Chim with similar mileage had what looked like an almost new chassis and no rust on riggers at all. My view was it never hit water but still.
So are we saying every Tvr after 98/99 will have a rusting Chassis.
That’s clearly not true,,,, they all rust.
So a camera inside the tube will hopefully show daylight or holes but if it’s corroded but not gone through as such you’ll reveal nothing.
I like The screwdriver idea and pushing down as that will give me some idea of strength.
I swing from assuming it will all be rottin based on the STORIES of late chassis to thinking it’s probably fine and this is more about knowing what I’ve got. Every test they’ve had from mot men and a good mate it’s always passed but that doesn’t mean much.
If I choose to sell the car I have to be able to say with honestly how it is,,, and that’s without rotten chassis parts.
I’m in a position where I sell the car now and loose a fortune or do the chassis myself and loose a smaller fortune,,,, but fortunes change so maybe a year down the line when I’ve got this done I’ll have no intention of selling it.
The riggers are the riggers, it’s the top tubes I’m more concerned about because that can’t be repaired with body on so with that in mind I’m going to remove front wheels and possibly a manifold to take a proper look and try some strength tests. If it passes that then maybe I’ll get away with riggers or just a re paint.
The camera idea as all the advice above is all good and let’s face it if you have to or wish to sell one without rigger replacement you need good evidence as to there condition.
Ok some chassis are in a bad way,,,,,,, usually the very old ones and I’ve seen riggers from cars around 95/96 totally destroyed so the new chassis old chassis thing is not strictly correct. My late chassis as is another car produced with the white powder coat with 50,000 miles on the clock and just like mine, main sections and top tubes are in good condition and there’s very little if any loss of powder coat. On any car this old now it’s all down to if they had chassis protection long before now.
Infact another 2000 year Chim with similar mileage had what looked like an almost new chassis and no rust on riggers at all. My view was it never hit water but still.
So are we saying every Tvr after 98/99 will have a rusting Chassis.
That’s clearly not true,,,, they all rust.
From what you say, if I was in your position, I would take the manifolds off and have a very critical look at the top structure there. If it requires welding, then you are into body off territory so the outrigger question becomes secondary. When you raise the body you can inspect them properly, and repair as appropriate, if required.
If the structure is good in the engine bay, then I would have a really good look round the front and rear of each outrigger. Possibly get a budget endoscope and see if you can run it above the outriggers from front, or as CoG says drill an inspection hole internally and run the endoscope from there. You can see the bottom of the outriggers easily and while that isn't an indication of the top, if the tops were badly corroded it is likely the sides will be corroded to some extent and you would be able to see that from underneath. If the bottom and what you can see of the sides of the outriggers are nicely painted / coated and have no signs of corrosion, then I would not be too concerned. I certainly wouldn't be lifting the body just in case.
Are you thinking of selling? If so, I would expect the best way forward is to honestly say that no chassis work has been done as it has never been required. Have some decent photos of what you can see of the outriggers and let someone look underneath for themselves. I expect that if you spend a lot of money working on the car just before sale then you wont get that back, so better to sell "as is".
My car was a very early one and had the silver / grey chassis. Only when I bought it back in 2005, it was completely rotten and I was aware I was buying a project. So with the "good" chassis colour, at 13 years and 60k miles old it was in a terrible state. Other than the obvious cosmetic effects of having sat in a damp lock up for a few years, other than the chassis it was in great condition and had plenty of large receipts / invoices from well known TVR specialists so it had been cared for. It had MOT advice for the chassis for the last few MOTs, so it wasn't the damp lock up that had killed the chassis. In round terms, all Griffs / Chims will be 15 to 25 years old now. There may be some (possibly including yours) that were "lucky" in how they were treated / stored at the factory and have since then been looked after by caring owners, not been driven in salt, always kept indoors and not had too much in the way of stones / debris / mud thrown from the front wheels that have attacked the front of the outriggers. These cars may be solid and may not require chassis work for a long time. I suspect that the majority of cars that haven't already had some chassis work carried out will require it in the foreseeable future.
If the structure is good in the engine bay, then I would have a really good look round the front and rear of each outrigger. Possibly get a budget endoscope and see if you can run it above the outriggers from front, or as CoG says drill an inspection hole internally and run the endoscope from there. You can see the bottom of the outriggers easily and while that isn't an indication of the top, if the tops were badly corroded it is likely the sides will be corroded to some extent and you would be able to see that from underneath. If the bottom and what you can see of the sides of the outriggers are nicely painted / coated and have no signs of corrosion, then I would not be too concerned. I certainly wouldn't be lifting the body just in case.
Are you thinking of selling? If so, I would expect the best way forward is to honestly say that no chassis work has been done as it has never been required. Have some decent photos of what you can see of the outriggers and let someone look underneath for themselves. I expect that if you spend a lot of money working on the car just before sale then you wont get that back, so better to sell "as is".
My car was a very early one and had the silver / grey chassis. Only when I bought it back in 2005, it was completely rotten and I was aware I was buying a project. So with the "good" chassis colour, at 13 years and 60k miles old it was in a terrible state. Other than the obvious cosmetic effects of having sat in a damp lock up for a few years, other than the chassis it was in great condition and had plenty of large receipts / invoices from well known TVR specialists so it had been cared for. It had MOT advice for the chassis for the last few MOTs, so it wasn't the damp lock up that had killed the chassis. In round terms, all Griffs / Chims will be 15 to 25 years old now. There may be some (possibly including yours) that were "lucky" in how they were treated / stored at the factory and have since then been looked after by caring owners, not been driven in salt, always kept indoors and not had too much in the way of stones / debris / mud thrown from the front wheels that have attacked the front of the outriggers. These cars may be solid and may not require chassis work for a long time. I suspect that the majority of cars that haven't already had some chassis work carried out will require it in the foreseeable future.
Just to be clear I'm not suggesting drilling into the chassis tubes themselves, I'm talking about drilling a well placed hole or two in the car's fiberglass floor and then neatly sealing the holes with closing grommets all to be hidden under the carpet so you would literally never know they're there.
The outriggers rot in the corners.
A well placed hole in the floor and an endoscope passed through it would allow you to look down on this....
It's a way to give you 90% of the view a 4" body lift offers without the significant investment in time and cost a 4" lift involves, the endoscope inspection isn't as good as a 4" lift but it would be would be good enough to help the owner decide if he should proceed to restore his chassis or let it go a few more years..... and all for the cost of a £10 endoscope.
Surely that's enough of a benefit for someone to try the idea?
The outriggers rot in the corners.
A well placed hole in the floor and an endoscope passed through it would allow you to look down on this....
It's a way to give you 90% of the view a 4" body lift offers without the significant investment in time and cost a 4" lift involves, the endoscope inspection isn't as good as a 4" lift but it would be would be good enough to help the owner decide if he should proceed to restore his chassis or let it go a few more years..... and all for the cost of a £10 endoscope.
Surely that's enough of a benefit for someone to try the idea?
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