Carrera GT 12 year engine out service (pic heavy)
Discussion
Many thanks for another superb photographic record of the CGT major service. Only the front grilles to give away that the car is at 20k miles and not just rolled off the production line at Leipzig.
The gearbox refurb is interesting. Were they able to link the problem you reported to the crack found or is this just a case of normal wear and tear with wearing parts needing replacement from time to time? The clutch at just under 30mm sounds fine for miles to come. 29.4mm here at 44k miles.
With the painting, do they take it back to the bare “metal”? One of the attractive features of the original factory paint is that in certain light you can see the effect of the underlying carbon weave in the paint surface.
Enjoy the Euro trip. The 92l tank should come in handy.
The gearbox refurb is interesting. Were they able to link the problem you reported to the crack found or is this just a case of normal wear and tear with wearing parts needing replacement from time to time? The clutch at just under 30mm sounds fine for miles to come. 29.4mm here at 44k miles.
With the painting, do they take it back to the bare “metal”? One of the attractive features of the original factory paint is that in certain light you can see the effect of the underlying carbon weave in the paint surface.
Enjoy the Euro trip. The 92l tank should come in handy.
always a pleasure to see the service pictures you put up. There I was thinking I had been unstinting in my maintenance of the car but clearly not a patch on you! 
Interesting about the gearbox too, I had 3rd gear being a bit recalcitrant a few years ago but more (high rev
) mileage and new gearbox oil seems to have solved that for now. Good to know the gearbox manufacturer will still be able to refurb if required.
Interesting about the gearbox too, I had 3rd gear being a bit recalcitrant a few years ago but more (high rev
) mileage and new gearbox oil seems to have solved that for now. Good to know the gearbox manufacturer will still be able to refurb if required.
) and it's noticeably improved the shift.Fabulous!
Interesting on the re-design of the differential parts, mine is due it's fourth 4 year engine out service next year and second has become notchy again, I had 3rd gear synchro replaced and one of the selector mechanism parts (which is now a paperweight in my office) by Hor a few years ago and will ask Reading to send the box back when the engines out.
Interesting on the re-design of the differential parts, mine is due it's fourth 4 year engine out service next year and second has become notchy again, I had 3rd gear synchro replaced and one of the selector mechanism parts (which is now a paperweight in my office) by Hor a few years ago and will ask Reading to send the box back when the engines out.
Hi Stefan,
Nice write up and always good to hear the service regime followed by owners.
How frequently would you recommend lacquering the magnesium wheels ?
Also, do you exercise your CGT on a relatively frequent basis, even over the winter period or do you store it carefully without issue?
Great thread and interesting to compare CGT ownership experiences.
J
Nice write up and always good to hear the service regime followed by owners.
How frequently would you recommend lacquering the magnesium wheels ?
Also, do you exercise your CGT on a relatively frequent basis, even over the winter period or do you store it carefully without issue?
Great thread and interesting to compare CGT ownership experiences.
J
coyft said:
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
Only way to avoid premature/ possibly heavy clutch wear is to use no throttle at all until you are moving.On a hill I use the handbrake to stop it rolling back until I feel the clutch start to engage and the anti stall giving some revs.
coyft said:
Great write up and wonderful to see the enthusiasm of a fellow owner.
I'm very new to CGT ownership and hope to use it quite a lot this summer.
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
You may already do this, but for better/easier clutch control, rest the heel of your foot at the base the clutch pedal and release the clutch by lifting your toes. I'm very new to CGT ownership and hope to use it quite a lot this summer.
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
That way you can measure out the clutch more consistently and with control.
As previous poster states, never ride the clutch (that’s expensive !!!). Use your had brake on hill starts and I tend to try and keep rolling where possible.
JPCGT said:
You may already do this, but for better/easier clutch control, rest the heel of your foot at the base the clutch pedal and release the clutch by lifting your toes.
That way you can measure out the clutch more consistently and with control.
As previous poster states, never ride the clutch (that’s expensive !!!). Use your had brake on hill starts and I tend to try and keep rolling where possible.
Have I slipped onto a parallel London to Brighton Veteran Car Run thread? That way you can measure out the clutch more consistently and with control.
As previous poster states, never ride the clutch (that’s expensive !!!). Use your had brake on hill starts and I tend to try and keep rolling where possible.
Actually and being serious, this stuff is interesting to those of us that will never get to drive a CGT never mind own one
DW
coyft said:
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
As 993rsr and JPCGT have both said on hills use the handbrake and trust the anti stall. It is worth just having a practice reaching the handbrake with the door closed as the gap is quite narrow and for me it is finger tip only; as for nipping out into traffic in a CGT that is above my pay grade but I do try wherever possible to keep the wheels rolling. The engine is astonishingly tractable at low rpm and will pull away cleanly from very slow speed. Leave a much bigger gap than normal to the car in front and hopfully time your arrival for when the junction is clear. Turning left at an uphill T junction is a particular treat as visibility is also compromised. That's the theory but in practice just enjoy driving the finest road car every made.
David W. said:
JPCGT said:
You may already do this, but for better/easier clutch control, rest the heel of your foot at the base the clutch pedal and release the clutch by lifting your toes.
That way you can measure out the clutch more consistently and with control.
As previous poster states, never ride the clutch (that’s expensive !!!). Use your had brake on hill starts and I tend to try and keep rolling where possible.
Have I slipped onto a parallel London to Brighton Veteran Car Run thread? That way you can measure out the clutch more consistently and with control.
As previous poster states, never ride the clutch (that’s expensive !!!). Use your had brake on hill starts and I tend to try and keep rolling where possible.
Actually and being serious, this stuff is interesting to those of us that will never get to drive a CGT never mind own one
DW
The beauty of this is not only is it very compact (6 1/4" in diameter) allowing the engine to be located lower in the car than a traditional clutch getting the mass lower in the chassis, but it is extremely light meaning the engine revs with seemingly little inertia due to the lower rotational mass compared to a conventional clutch - 10 times less.
Used correctly they are very durable, and it's worth overcoming the aggravation of become conversant (I saw it as a challenge to master, rather than a problem) with it for the benefits offered.
Edited by 993rsr on Monday 15th April 18:38
993rsr said:
The clutch is very interesting. It was the first attempt at a carbon ceramic clutch in a production car (PCCC, Porsche Ceramic Composite Clutch).
The beauty of this is not only is it very compact (6 1/4" in diameter) allowing the engine to be located lower in the car than a traditional clutch getting the mass lower in the chassis, but it is extremely light meaning the engine revs with seemingly little inertia due to the lower rotational mass compared to a conventional clutch - 10 times less.
Used correctly they are very durable, and it's worth overcoming the aggravation of become conversant (I saw it as a challenge to master, rather than a problem) with it for the benefits offered.
The thing that intrigues me is the way the anti stall is able to give just the right amount of revs to get the car moving whereas my right foot on the gas pedal can’t. I would be very interested to learn how it works.The beauty of this is not only is it very compact (6 1/4" in diameter) allowing the engine to be located lower in the car than a traditional clutch getting the mass lower in the chassis, but it is extremely light meaning the engine revs with seemingly little inertia due to the lower rotational mass compared to a conventional clutch - 10 times less.
Used correctly they are very durable, and it's worth overcoming the aggravation of become conversant (I saw it as a challenge to master, rather than a problem) with it for the benefits offered.
Edited by 993rsr on Monday 15th April 18:38
lowndes said:
993rsr said:
The clutch is very interesting. It was the first attempt at a carbon ceramic clutch in a production car (PCCC, Porsche Ceramic Composite Clutch).
The beauty of this is not only is it very compact (6 1/4" in diameter) allowing the engine to be located lower in the car than a traditional clutch getting the mass lower in the chassis, but it is extremely light meaning the engine revs with seemingly little inertia due to the lower rotational mass compared to a conventional clutch - 10 times less.
Used correctly they are very durable, and it's worth overcoming the aggravation of become conversant (I saw it as a challenge to master, rather than a problem) with it for the benefits offered.
The thing that intrigues me is the way the anti stall is able to give just the right amount of revs to get the car moving whereas my right foot on the gas pedal can’t. I would be very interested to learn how it works.The beauty of this is not only is it very compact (6 1/4" in diameter) allowing the engine to be located lower in the car than a traditional clutch getting the mass lower in the chassis, but it is extremely light meaning the engine revs with seemingly little inertia due to the lower rotational mass compared to a conventional clutch - 10 times less.
Used correctly they are very durable, and it's worth overcoming the aggravation of become conversant (I saw it as a challenge to master, rather than a problem) with it for the benefits offered.
Edited by 993rsr on Monday 15th April 18:38
993rsr said:
Fabulous!
Interesting on the re-design of the differential parts, mine is due it's fourth 4 year engine out service next year and second has become notchy again, I had 3rd gear synchro replaced and one of the selector mechanism parts (which is now a paperweight in my office) by Hor a few years ago and will ask Reading to send the box back when the engines out.
I also had those selector parts replaced too...worth asking about the differential for sure.Interesting on the re-design of the differential parts, mine is due it's fourth 4 year engine out service next year and second has become notchy again, I had 3rd gear synchro replaced and one of the selector mechanism parts (which is now a paperweight in my office) by Hor a few years ago and will ask Reading to send the box back when the engines out.
Cheers
JPCGT said:
Hi Stefan,
Nice write up and always good to hear the service regime followed by owners.
How frequently would you recommend lacquering the magnesium wheels ?
Also, do you exercise your CGT on a relatively frequent basis, even over the winter period or do you store it carefully without issue?
Great thread and interesting to compare CGT ownership experiences.
J
I have had them done every four years. In the meantime, they always pick up the odd stone chip and it's a small cost to keep them in 100% condition (particularly given how expensive a replacement wheel would be).Nice write up and always good to hear the service regime followed by owners.
How frequently would you recommend lacquering the magnesium wheels ?
Also, do you exercise your CGT on a relatively frequent basis, even over the winter period or do you store it carefully without issue?
Great thread and interesting to compare CGT ownership experiences.
J
I tend to leave the car for no more than 3 months, even over winter, although I'll avoid salty roads obviously. As ever with Porsche, the car starts on the button every time.
coyft said:
Great write up and wonderful to see the enthusiasm of a fellow owner.
I'm very new to CGT ownership and hope to use it quite a lot this summer.
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
Others here have given great advice. All I'd add is that for hill starts the alternative is to hold the car on the footbrake, and then lift the clutch to the biting point, and just when you sense the anti-stall has kicked in (when the revs drop and then recover), gently roll off the footbrake and clutch at the same time. I'm very new to CGT ownership and hope to use it quite a lot this summer.
A quick question on the clutch use. How do you nip out at a junction without using the accelerator before the clutch is fully out? Also if you're on a hill is it OK to hold the car on the clutch (without accelerator)?
I find this easier than reaching down for the handbrake - and it also avoids the temptation to put your right foot on the throttle because it is on the brake!
Enjoy the car!
stefan1 said:
I have had them done every four years. In the meantime, they always pick up the odd stone chip and it's a small cost to keep them in 100% condition (particularly given how expensive a replacement wheel would be).
I tend to leave the car for no more than 3 months, even over winter, although I'll avoid salty roads obviously. As ever with Porsche, the car starts on the button every time.
Thanks Stefan. I’ll factor a lacquer coat on my wheels at the next 4 year service. I tend to leave the car for no more than 3 months, even over winter, although I'll avoid salty roads obviously. As ever with Porsche, the car starts on the button every time.
Regarding laying up over winter, I’m coming to the conclusion that they’re best given a run every so often, rather than left sat idle, even when prepped carefully.
Cheib said:
Reading all this about how you have to learn how to drive the car at pedestrian speeds...never mind at anything close to the edge of its performance envelope makes me want one even more!
Tbh I think quite a bit of a big deal is sometimes made about it because getting it moving from stationary is different than normal due to the no throttle thing. Once rolling it's basically like any other car - albeit one where the revs rise and drop very very quickly. With regards to hill starts, I tend to do what stefan1 says above, feet on both brake and clutch and roll off when the clutch starts to engage rather than handbrake. Still get rather stressed at uphill busy roundabouts though!
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