MK1 996GT3 Purchase
Discussion
Slippydiff said:
It’s not quite as dire as our learned friend is making out, but there are a lot of components that will almost certainly be past their sell by date.
Dampers are good for 20-25k mikes and then need refreshing to return them to optimal condition.
At 20 years/60k miles there’s a good chance the damper bodies, spring seats and their locking collars will be badly corroded.
Front and rear strut top mount bearing may be rattling away merrily.
Anti-roll bar drop links may join the above chorus ...
PAS pipes at the front of the car may be corroded. There is a cheap fix.
Underbody steel brake pipes may be corroded.
Front and rear springs corrode badly.
All suspension arms and their bushes will need careful inspection, likewise their ball joints.
Brake discs can corrode very heavily on their inner faces, whilst the outer faces look perfect.
Exhaust boxes corrode and fail on their seams.
ALL exhaust clamps/bolts/ nuts are cheap and corrode heavily.
Limited slip diff will most likely be ineffectual.
Radiators and air conditioning condensers rot due to debris, then subsequently fail.
Gearbox mount rubber bonding fails.
Coolant header tanks split.
Gearbox synchro hubs will be sub-optimal if they’ve been abused, many have ...
Clutch will possibly be heavy due to wear and failure/lack of lubrication of the clutch cross shaft bearings.
Gearshift may be sloppy due to abuse/wear in the shift mechanism.
Cam chains and followers may rattle like a b
h when started from cold. This should disappear smartly, but it’s not a nice sound ...
Theories cables fray, and many aren’t adjusted correctly, meaning you won’t get 100% throttle.
Check carefully for previous crash damage/repairs.
Have a leak down test carried out on the engine.
Check air conditioning blows colder than an Artic tundra.
Check battery condition, they don’t like been not used/left without a conditioner.
Check engine poly belt condition.
Bonnet struts become weak and can hurt your head...
Apart from that lot, they’re pretty much bullet proof !!
Best advice is to get it checked out by someone who knows the cars inside out. There are plenty of specialists who’ll do you a proper inspection, depending on your location, others will advise.
Can you run that by me again slippery..!Dampers are good for 20-25k mikes and then need refreshing to return them to optimal condition.
At 20 years/60k miles there’s a good chance the damper bodies, spring seats and their locking collars will be badly corroded.
Front and rear strut top mount bearing may be rattling away merrily.
Anti-roll bar drop links may join the above chorus ...
PAS pipes at the front of the car may be corroded. There is a cheap fix.
Underbody steel brake pipes may be corroded.
Front and rear springs corrode badly.
All suspension arms and their bushes will need careful inspection, likewise their ball joints.
Brake discs can corrode very heavily on their inner faces, whilst the outer faces look perfect.
Exhaust boxes corrode and fail on their seams.
ALL exhaust clamps/bolts/ nuts are cheap and corrode heavily.
Limited slip diff will most likely be ineffectual.
Radiators and air conditioning condensers rot due to debris, then subsequently fail.
Gearbox mount rubber bonding fails.
Coolant header tanks split.
Gearbox synchro hubs will be sub-optimal if they’ve been abused, many have ...
Clutch will possibly be heavy due to wear and failure/lack of lubrication of the clutch cross shaft bearings.
Gearshift may be sloppy due to abuse/wear in the shift mechanism.
Cam chains and followers may rattle like a b
h when started from cold. This should disappear smartly, but it’s not a nice sound ...Theories cables fray, and many aren’t adjusted correctly, meaning you won’t get 100% throttle.
Check carefully for previous crash damage/repairs.
Have a leak down test carried out on the engine.
Check air conditioning blows colder than an Artic tundra.
Check battery condition, they don’t like been not used/left without a conditioner.
Check engine poly belt condition.
Bonnet struts become weak and can hurt your head...
Apart from that lot, they’re pretty much bullet proof !!
Best advice is to get it checked out by someone who knows the cars inside out. There are plenty of specialists who’ll do you a proper inspection, depending on your location, others will advise.
Mr H’s list is direct and too the point.
I bought my 996.1 CS 3 years ago at 54,000 miles.
I had mine PPI’d at 9e (Surrey) who now look after the car too, mine needed;
Tyres (due to age)
Steering pack (leak)
Diff (only last 15-25,000 miles)
New front rads (blown due to leaves build up)
And I’ve added to Slippy’s list when I’ve had things done.
Hopefully mine needs for nothing now.
Dan
I bought my 996.1 CS 3 years ago at 54,000 miles.
I had mine PPI’d at 9e (Surrey) who now look after the car too, mine needed;
Tyres (due to age)
Steering pack (leak)
Diff (only last 15-25,000 miles)
New front rads (blown due to leaves build up)
And I’ve added to Slippy’s list when I’ve had things done.
Hopefully mine needs for nothing now.
Slippydiff said:
Front and rear strut top mount bearing may be rattling away merrily. (We’re done 5 years ago before I bought it)
Anti-roll bar drop links may join the above chorus ...
(Checked - were fine)
PAS pipes at the front of the car may be corroded. There is a cheap fix. (Had to have mine down when having a new steering rack)
Underbody steel brake pipes may be corroded.
(Checked and fine)
Front and rear springs corrode badly.
(Have a spare set if they do)
All suspension arms and their bushes will need careful inspection, likewise their ball joints.
(My are all fine, were done 18k ago)
Brake discs can corrode very heavily on their inner faces, whilst the outer faces look perfect.
(Can do - break hard can sort this)
Exhaust boxes corrode and fail on their seams.
(I have K400 - so m&m Manthey exhaust 12,000 miles or so ago)
ALL exhaust clamps/bolts/ nuts are cheap and corrode heavily.
(Was polishing my exhaust the other day and noticed mine were looking tired)
Limited slip diff will most likely be ineffectual.
(Done 600 miles ago)
Radiators and air conditioning condensers rot due to debris, then subsequently fail. (All fine now but have full new set in storage should they be needed)
Gearbox mount rubber bonding fails.
(Was done 15k ago)
Coolant header tanks split.
(£350 bottle and a pig to do -2,200 miles ago)
Gearbox synchro hubs will be sub-optimal if they’ve been abused, many have ...
(Had gearbox rebuild 25,000 ago)
Clutch will possibly be heavy due to wear and failure/lack of lubrication of the clutch cross shaft bearings.
(Heavy till you drive it for 50 miles)
Gearshift may be sloppy due to abuse/wear in the shift mechanism.
(Mine was 997.2 shifter put in 1,000 miles ago)
Cam chains and followers may rattle like a bh when started from cold. This should disappear smartly, but it’s not a nice sound ...
(All my GT3 have done this)
Theories cables fray, and many aren’t adjusted correctly, meaning you won’t get 100% throttle. (Never checked mine)
Check carefully for previous crash damage/repairs.
(All good)
Have a leak down test carried out on the engine.
(I didn’t, bought mine at 54,000 miles)
Check air conditioning blows colder than an Artic tundra.
(Had to have re gas)
Check battery condition, they don’t like been not used/left without a conditioner. (On trickle)
Check engine poly belt condition.
(Changed last year)
Bonnet struts become weak and can hurt your head...
(Fine)
Apart from that lot, they’re pretty much bullet proof !!
Best advice is to get it checked out by someone who knows the cars inside out. There are plenty of specialists who’ll do you a proper inspection, depending on your location, others will advise.
Great cars, you’ll love one.Anti-roll bar drop links may join the above chorus ...
(Checked - were fine)
PAS pipes at the front of the car may be corroded. There is a cheap fix. (Had to have mine down when having a new steering rack)
Underbody steel brake pipes may be corroded.
(Checked and fine)
Front and rear springs corrode badly.
(Have a spare set if they do)
All suspension arms and their bushes will need careful inspection, likewise their ball joints.
(My are all fine, were done 18k ago)
Brake discs can corrode very heavily on their inner faces, whilst the outer faces look perfect.
(Can do - break hard can sort this)
Exhaust boxes corrode and fail on their seams.
(I have K400 - so m&m Manthey exhaust 12,000 miles or so ago)
ALL exhaust clamps/bolts/ nuts are cheap and corrode heavily.
(Was polishing my exhaust the other day and noticed mine were looking tired)
Limited slip diff will most likely be ineffectual.
(Done 600 miles ago)
Radiators and air conditioning condensers rot due to debris, then subsequently fail. (All fine now but have full new set in storage should they be needed)
Gearbox mount rubber bonding fails.
(Was done 15k ago)
Coolant header tanks split.
(£350 bottle and a pig to do -2,200 miles ago)
Gearbox synchro hubs will be sub-optimal if they’ve been abused, many have ...
(Had gearbox rebuild 25,000 ago)
Clutch will possibly be heavy due to wear and failure/lack of lubrication of the clutch cross shaft bearings.
(Heavy till you drive it for 50 miles)
Gearshift may be sloppy due to abuse/wear in the shift mechanism.
(Mine was 997.2 shifter put in 1,000 miles ago)
Cam chains and followers may rattle like a b
h when started from cold. This should disappear smartly, but it’s not a nice sound ...(All my GT3 have done this)
Theories cables fray, and many aren’t adjusted correctly, meaning you won’t get 100% throttle. (Never checked mine)
Check carefully for previous crash damage/repairs.
(All good)
Have a leak down test carried out on the engine.
(I didn’t, bought mine at 54,000 miles)
Check air conditioning blows colder than an Artic tundra.
(Had to have re gas)
Check battery condition, they don’t like been not used/left without a conditioner. (On trickle)
Check engine poly belt condition.
(Changed last year)
Bonnet struts become weak and can hurt your head...
(Fine)
Apart from that lot, they’re pretty much bullet proof !!
Best advice is to get it checked out by someone who knows the cars inside out. There are plenty of specialists who’ll do you a proper inspection, depending on your location, others will advise.
Dan
LaurasOtherHalf said:
Forgive my memory, who was it that had the underside of his SYmk1 rebuilt due to corrosion again? We met at Oulton back in the day and lost touch with each other after I moved away from the scene somewhat.
PH’er All2ofme, now belongs to a mate of mine. Another lovely car 
Slippydiff said:
LaurasOtherHalf said:
Forgive my memory, who was it that had the underside of his SYmk1 rebuilt due to corrosion again? We met at Oulton back in the day and lost touch with each other after I moved away from the scene somewhat.
PH’er All2ofme, now belongs to a mate of mine. Another lovely car 
Ben?! I think it was Ben anyways...Iirc there was a fantastic thread on it somewhere?
Kettmark said:
Basically saying mum £100k asking price is a lot of dosh to spend on a car likely to be sat in a garage.
Are the rs variants really worth £50k more than standard gt3's?
The 996 RS jumped up in price massively when the older RS started to go crazy. Some of the older RS stuff is now starting to cool off so there may be the possibility these will eventually follow suit. Are the rs variants really worth £50k more than standard gt3's?
Many would describe the 996 rs as an ugly duckling, but there’s something about looking at a 996 gt3 rs that can’t help but put a smile on my face.
LaurasOtherHalf said:
Ben?! I think it was Ben anyways...Iirc there was a fantastic thread on it somewhere?
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/6629...
Slippydiff said:
Loved reading that - cheers!
Heathrow said:
That looks great; get it bought OP.RE maintenance cost; as mentioned it’s no worse than any other 15-20yo performance cars, and if it’s been owned by enthusiasts previously then you might find many items on the ‘rolling restoration’ list would have already been done.
RE LHD, it wouldn’t put me off and you’d have the benefit of 90L tank.
andylaight said:
Finally anyone know of cars that are not being openly marketed that are or are coming up for sale?
thanks in advance
Can be worth trying the better, known, trusted dealers, as they often know of cars/owners who are thinking of selling. they also have finite showroom space, so not every car can be accommodated. When I bought my car at JZM, a near identical car (same spec and miled, just a different colour) dropped into their stock almost as soon as mine was in the PDI bay.thanks in advance
ChrisW. said:
... were the clips on the pipes to the radiators the press-fit ones that sometimes failed ?
yes, good point. AFAIK, the coolant hoses and fixings were the same for all Mezger engined 996 and 997 cars, so GT2, GT3 and also the Turbos.One small thing with the radiators if you buy one; fit some mesh to protect them. All the Cup race cars had it and also, later, the Gen2 997 GT3s.
There is something super special about the early GT3... I know the looks aren't to everybody's taste, but something tells me that just like the Bangle era BMWs with time, they will be seen as design classics and game changing. As for the driving dynamics - yes, the 996 is supposed to be the slowest, but two things - it ain't with a K400 and secondly, it is the most involving of all modern GT cars.
P.S. Yes, I am very biased as I still have a 36k 996.1 CS K400 which is bought with 20k on the clock. These days it gets trailered to track days...
P.S. Yes, I am very biased as I still have a 36k 996.1 CS K400 which is bought with 20k on the clock. These days it gets trailered to track days...
Porsche911R said:
I also thought they were st on the road ;-)
I would have vehemently disagreed with you (as per the norm t on the road ;-)
) but yes, a car as modified as mine, is not very nice on anything but a snooker table smooth French or German road. Btw, I have a Cup diff and Cup crown/pinion in mine, so gearing is spot on P.S. Just to bring some balance - before I bought my Manthey, I drove a superb 25k miles Swiss 996.1 CS which was totally standard and on a fresh set of dampers. I thought it was actually quite nice given the brief of the car.
P.S.1. Mine gets trailered because I hate to see the effects of winter roads on one of the lowest miles 996.1s in the country and also, I doubt that anyone would enjoy the schlep around the M25 in a properly sorted GT car...
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