Discussion
J-P said:
julian987R said:
This is my old car!!!julian987R said:
J-P said:
julian987R said:
This is my old car!!!J-P said:
julian987R said:
J-P said:
julian987R said:
This is my old car!!!Yeah that one is my car.
The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
julian987R said:
J-P said:
julian987R said:
J-P said:
julian987R said:
This is my old car!!!leemanning said:
Yeah that one is my car.
The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
Hi - bizzarrely, you even live close to where I used to live (Chipstead).The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
Hi. Trust all are having a lovely bank holiday.
Earlier in the week I had an error message appear - Battery/Generator Warning.
Some context - that particular drive was the first in a month, and on average the use over the past 3 months have been once a month (to the vets 10 miles round trip)....so very little use. I don't use a trickle charger. The battery is approx 2 years old.
The revs at idle were higher than normal, around 1100/1200 at times, not all the time, but was disconcerting. I could control it to drop to the normal circa 800 if I used the clutch in a certain way.
I spoke with AutoFarm who said the higher revs were that the engine is compensating....and recommended i go for a really long drive to see if that helps clear things.
I went for a drive today and instantly noticed the idle issue has gone - it idles and drives perfectly fine, seemed to be behaving perfect, had the AC on and PCM, no issues with anything....however the error message came on about 1min into the drive.
I am due to drive to meet family tomorrow, 200 miles round trip. If the error message happens tomorrow am I doing damage to the car by driving it? I ask as todays drive (to see if that helped clear things) wasn't a 'really long drive' due to bank holiday traffic getting in the way.
Thoughts?
Is it about to blow up?
Any advice much appreciated.
Best regards
Earlier in the week I had an error message appear - Battery/Generator Warning.
Some context - that particular drive was the first in a month, and on average the use over the past 3 months have been once a month (to the vets 10 miles round trip)....so very little use. I don't use a trickle charger. The battery is approx 2 years old.
The revs at idle were higher than normal, around 1100/1200 at times, not all the time, but was disconcerting. I could control it to drop to the normal circa 800 if I used the clutch in a certain way.
I spoke with AutoFarm who said the higher revs were that the engine is compensating....and recommended i go for a really long drive to see if that helps clear things.
I went for a drive today and instantly noticed the idle issue has gone - it idles and drives perfectly fine, seemed to be behaving perfect, had the AC on and PCM, no issues with anything....however the error message came on about 1min into the drive.
I am due to drive to meet family tomorrow, 200 miles round trip. If the error message happens tomorrow am I doing damage to the car by driving it? I ask as todays drive (to see if that helped clear things) wasn't a 'really long drive' due to bank holiday traffic getting in the way.
Thoughts?
Is it about to blow up?
Any advice much appreciated.
Best regards
Vincent-Vega said:
Battery is low on charge and needs a good drive to charge it up, short trips interspersed with long periods of not being driven will do that.
Give it a good drive and give it the beans and it should be OK.
Failing that the alternator could be iffy, but I suspect the former.
Thank you Vincent for your reply and advice. tomorrows drive should hopefully cures things as its 200 odd miles and most of it motorway speeds. I'll let you know how it goes. Again, thank you.Give it a good drive and give it the beans and it should be OK.
Failing that the alternator could be iffy, but I suspect the former.
julian987R said:
Vincent-Vega said:
Battery is low on charge and needs a good drive to charge it up, short trips interspersed with long periods of not being driven will do that.
Give it a good drive and give it the beans and it should be OK.
Failing that the alternator could be iffy, but I suspect the former.
Thank you Vincent for your reply and advice. tomorrows drive should hopefully cures things as its 200 odd miles and most of it motorway speeds. I'll let you know how it goes. Again, thank you.Give it a good drive and give it the beans and it should be OK.
Failing that the alternator could be iffy, but I suspect the former.
If you're worried about leaving the car without a battery parked in the street [in London etc] then temporarily replace it with any battery no matter the size. It will just need to power your alarm over night while charging the main battery. You just need any battery with round terminals so a small bike battery or a smaller car battery will suffice. Quick ebay search found this one for 38 quid inc delivery - no idea if it will fit but looks about right. It doesn't need to be exactly right size for the battery tray as the car will only be parked and stationary.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253245422683
You'll need a 10mm socket for the battery terminals and a 13mm with extension for the clamp bolt.
I'm still toying with the idea of a solar charger panel thing which goes inside the car and then into the fag lighter but not got round to it. They only provide a low voltage but many hours of low voltage every day will keep your battery topped off - not sure however if it can fully chatge a low battery. But as I have my spare battery for temporary over night charging - as explained above - and my cars live on my drive outside my house it feels like an over exuberance to me.
leemanning said:
Yeah that one is my car.
The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
Good luck with the sale, it looks a cracker The market is strong and top cars are demanding top money. There’s always something cheaper but not always something better. At 10 years old the dealer vs private price delta shouldn’t really come into it. It’s got a full OPC history and N rated tyres, so it’s good to go for a Porsche Warranty if the new buyer wants one.
It really is in outstanding condition and drives perfectly.
Let’s see how it does I guess! I’m in no big rush to sell it, but wouldn’t mind freeing up a bit of space for things that are joining the garage over the next few months. After speaking to both RPM & JZM they both said that £50k is where the market is for this car, so I thought why not sell it myself
Update on my battery/generator error message. Of todays 200mile round trip.
Start up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
Start up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
Morning All, apologies in advance as these subjects have been done a few times but looking for specific views of those who have used on track please.
The last year I have owned a Megane 265 Cup (with uprated pads and coilovers) and used this on track and while it is an exceptional car I miss the rear wheel drive and glorious sound of the R which leads me to my questions.
The last time I used the R on track the brakes (standard except GT3 front cooling ducts) left me with not much confidence in a couple of the heavy braking zones (Bedford GT) So do I go the well discussed route of GT3 master cylinder, better fluid, Giro's etc or I have even thought about possibly trying a 981 GT4
What would be the costs involved to get the brakes good enough to inspire confidence on track ? Any views on the GT4 v R on track for those who have been lucky enough to drive / own both ?
My car (R currently) is only used for road trips and potentially 3 - 4 track days which equates to 2 - 3 k Miles a year. Approaching 20k now !!
Thoughts appreciated on either direction.
The last year I have owned a Megane 265 Cup (with uprated pads and coilovers) and used this on track and while it is an exceptional car I miss the rear wheel drive and glorious sound of the R which leads me to my questions.
The last time I used the R on track the brakes (standard except GT3 front cooling ducts) left me with not much confidence in a couple of the heavy braking zones (Bedford GT) So do I go the well discussed route of GT3 master cylinder, better fluid, Giro's etc or I have even thought about possibly trying a 981 GT4
What would be the costs involved to get the brakes good enough to inspire confidence on track ? Any views on the GT4 v R on track for those who have been lucky enough to drive / own both ?
My car (R currently) is only used for road trips and potentially 3 - 4 track days which equates to 2 - 3 k Miles a year. Approaching 20k now !!
Thoughts appreciated on either direction.
julian987R said:
Update on my battery/generator error message. Of todays 200mile round trip.
Start up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
sounds like your alternator is failingStart up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
K400RDY said:
Morning All, apologies in advance as these subjects have been done a few times but looking for specific views of those who have used on track please.
The last year I have owned a Megane 265 Cup (with uprated pads and coilovers) and used this on track and while it is an exceptional car I miss the rear wheel drive and glorious sound of the R which leads me to my questions.
The last time I used the R on track the brakes (standard except GT3 front cooling ducts) left me with not much confidence in a couple of the heavy braking zones (Bedford GT) So do I go the well discussed route of GT3 master cylinder, better fluid, Giro's etc or I have even thought about possibly trying a 981 GT4
What would be the costs involved to get the brakes good enough to inspire confidence on track ? Any views on the GT4 v R on track for those who have been lucky enough to drive / own both ?
My car (R currently) is only used for road trips and potentially 3 - 4 track days which equates to 2 - 3 k Miles a year. Approaching 20k now !!
Thoughts appreciated on either direction.
The last year I have owned a Megane 265 Cup (with uprated pads and coilovers) and used this on track and while it is an exceptional car I miss the rear wheel drive and glorious sound of the R which leads me to my questions.
The last time I used the R on track the brakes (standard except GT3 front cooling ducts) left me with not much confidence in a couple of the heavy braking zones (Bedford GT) So do I go the well discussed route of GT3 master cylinder, better fluid, Giro's etc or I have even thought about possibly trying a 981 GT4
What would be the costs involved to get the brakes good enough to inspire confidence on track ? Any views on the GT4 v R on track for those who have been lucky enough to drive / own both ?
My car (R currently) is only used for road trips and potentially 3 - 4 track days which equates to 2 - 3 k Miles a year. Approaching 20k now !!
Thoughts appreciated on either direction.
frayz said:
Yes mate,
Giros, RS29s, GT3 MC, GT3 ducts, Titanium shims, Hel braided lines, and PFC fluid.
Sorted. The end.Giros, RS29s, GT3 MC, GT3 ducts, Titanium shims, Hel braided lines, and PFC fluid.
I use mine on track occasionally and it’s on Giros, ducts, racing fluid and better pads. No issues at all on track so possibly try that first before the expense and extra hassle of the M/C and steel braided hoses.
I am lucky enough to have both a Meg and an R in the fleet. Proper fun on track together
I am lucky enough to have both a Meg and an R in the fleet. Proper fun on track together
SarlechS said:
julian987R said:
Update on my battery/generator error message. Of todays 200mile round trip.
Start up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
sounds like your alternator is failingStart up - idle ok
2 mins later, after pulling away, error message kicked in and at first junction the idle jumped to 1200
100miles later (having stopped to pick up a few groceries) - car stalled twice, once in reverse, and once in 1st gear. Start back up and felt a bit odd like it was going to stall again and then seemed ok.
Return home - battery/generator error popped up again after a few minutes.
Idle seemed ok. Drive home 100miles seemed all fine and idle a'ok when at junctions.
Very much appreciate the advice above Vincent and ATM. ATM I may well do that with another battery - i'll call AutoFarm on Monday and let them know their long drive suggestion hasn't cleared anything - yet maybe that helps eliminate things from the enquiry as such.
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers
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