DIY Electronics - Kit Recommendations

[Smiler.]

For those who dabble or are a whizz & PCB populating, what kit would you recommend for:

• Soldering Iron (wired)
• PCB Jig
• Helping Hand Station
• Anything else (tools, consumables or components)

I already have a butane iron & a cheap wired one.

I need a wired one more suitable for PCB work (on/off/temp control) & finer bit.

Also, any old solder/flux or something specific?

I already have a mat.

Budget is flexible for the right bit of kit.

TIA.

[anonymous-user]

The soldering iron should be in the 60-100w region, as for the rest are you planning on through hole components or surface mount?

I really like the Metcal soldering irons but these are very expensive.

If re-working surface mount a second soldering iron is a must.

Other things like desoldering braid, 45 degree snips, lead free solder, tweezers. Some sort of fume extraction if you are planning on doing a lot of soldering and lastly an ESD mat and straps, this is different from a soldering mat.

Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 19th July 20:25

[Smiler.]

Through hole mainly.

These are the boards I'm intending to order:



What would be the best way to insulate (blank off) the unused area (mainly perimeter)? Is there some sort of (specific) plastic sheet or film that can be cut to size?

I already have some self-adhesive plastic mounting posts, so that's sorted.

Metcal are expensive

As for the ESD mat, I'm not actually using any ICs or the like, mainly just switches & terminals at the moment.

This will be for occasional use, although it tends to be in batches with a flurry of activity over a week, then nothing for months.

[anonymous-user]

Use kapton tape to insulate parts.

[tribbles]

I would go with a temperature controlled soldering iron of the highest wattage you can find (the wattage helps with keeping the temperature stable when soldering thick wire, for example). Soldering iron stand definitely helps too.

Fluxed, leaded solder is the easiest to solder with (lead free is quite tricky if you're not used to it), and I would definitely recommend a fume extractor (as already mentioned).

Don't worry about separate flux - I only use it for soldering surface mount ICs, which you said you aren't. You probably only need one tip size too - not too small for you needs (2-3 mm would suffice).

And something to keep you tip clean as well. Water soaked sponges are what most people start with, but I prefer the wire scrub variety now.

ETA: I use Auyoe soldering irons. I used to have one from Maplin that served me for years, but upgraded when it died. I tried a Tenma one, but it didn't cope with the soldering I did.

Edited by tribbles on Friday 20th July 21:38

[Who me ?]

Budget no problem-I'd say right away go for a Weller soldering station. But , both the station and spares are expensive. e.g. I've got a an EC 1201 station where the magnetic switch failed. Replacing it would cost more than a station from Maplin. The maplin one works, but I'm not that impressed even after a few years. Heat response is poor. For circuits, perhaps it might be better to look at a PCB program. I use Express PCB , with Acetate sheets from Hobbycraft designed for an Inkjet printer. OK,if you use positive PCB sheets, but it needs a bit of computer jiggery pokery if you go down the negative etch resist route. Both systems use an Ultraviolet light box, but the positive one uses treated PCB, whilst the negative route uses negative sheets and needs the image inverted using Computer jiggery pokery. Image is then developed as a photo and etched.
For positive photoresist, the circuit is drawn inverted on the copper, whilst negative is drawn as seen from above. For simple circuits, it's possibly easier to use transfers and a pen ( permanant marker is OK for larger stuff). I once did a xylaphone, and I made the keyboard by tracing the keys onto copper using carbon paper, painting over the markings using a near clear nail varnish and then using a nail to rmove the varnish where needed.
Just some thought to provoke ideas.

[Smiler.]

Thanks for the replies.

I bought some cheap stuff from Amazon to test drive.

The iron is a 60W with temp control & on/off switch. Already better that the Weller one I have (but that's a real basic model).

The helping hands thing is brilliant also, esp given that I can no longer keep either hand still for fine work (but ok if I use both).

The wire ball cleaner is also great.

Really interesting reading the tips for PCB design - I hadn't even considered that.

[Zad]

I'm not totally sure if Gottans was serious? Metcal is pretty rare in the UK, and generally only used by high end rework facilities. Quite honestly, there isn't much you'll be doing that can't be done with a 25-35W Antex. The Chinese generic TS100 iron has a lot of enthusiastic followers, but needs a 12-24V power supply. Beyond a certain point of competence, more expensive won't make you a better solderer.

Solder - forget lead free, lead based solder (wire not paste) gives a better solder joint, especially for the less experienced user (and for the more experienced one too come to that). Maybe get a flux pen, but with a good quality flux-cored solder you shouldn't need it.

You could do worse than have a browse around Big Clive's YouTube channel. Start here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIab66EgfHM

In later videos, Clive shows how to use photosensitive film to make your own PCBs, although you can use commercial services (Chinese ones are cheap but slow).

For most of your PCB making supplies, Rapid Electronics are good. An established UK supplier. https://www.rapidonline.com
Alternatively, CPC (the retail arm of Farnell Electronics) http://cpc.farnell.com/

For bulk supplies of components (resistors, capacitors, LEDs, diodes, standard transistors and ICs) use Ebay. For 1-off specific components, I would use Rapid/CPC.

[Who me ?]

AND, if you live near to a RS depot, then a lot of stuff is cheaper ( resistors etc in bulk) and it's next day pickup.
For PCB using a light source, RS& other places do a light box ,and e bay have them on auction. but it's something simple to make. Plenty of design features /measurements on the net, and the parameters are not critical. Basic light box with timer from RS =£180, but I made mine out of MDF ( cut to size out of a half sheet at local timber yard) ,cost £15. Two tubes from Ebay= circa £20. Sheet of glass, circa £5 .Add in a 555 timer +12v psu and relay , and I doubt if unit cost anymore than £80.

Edited by Who me ? on Sunday 22 July 23:50

[CubanPete]

A solder sucker will be useful too.

And a set of IPC soldering standards will give you an idea what you are ideally trying to achieve.

The instinct is to use a small tip, but use a big a tip as possible as it holds more energy and allows for a quicker / easier joint.

Leaded flux solder. Tho you won't be able to sell anything...

Definitely get extraction or ventilation of some sort. A fan is better than nothing.

[motco]

Don't you really need to wash the soldered side of the boards when they're complete to remove any corrosive flux components? I seem to recall doing this in the 1990s - maybe obsolete with new materials I realise.

[Zad]

In theory yes, you need to clean the flux off. In reality nah. It isn't acidic plumbers' flux.I don't recall seeing anything made in the last few decades that has had a flux related problem. Except maybe really cheap Chinese horrible stuff.