Discussion
tedblog said:
The tread pattern and depth will also enter the equation. Running 2mm on wide tyres might cause issues but 7mm on the same width wont.
Found this on aquaplaning:Tire tread wear: Worn tires will aquaplane more easily for lack of tread depth. Half-worn treads result in aquaplaning about 3–4 mph (5–7 km/h) lower than with full-tread tires
So yes having full tread will help but won't help as much as slowing down.
In terms of speed:
There is no precise equation to determine the speed at which a vehicle will aquaplane. Existing efforts have derived rules of thumb from empirical testing.[6][7] In general, cars start to aquaplane at speeds above 45-58 mph (72-93 kph).[
I think we all get the basics of aquaplaning so instead of lots of posts discussing it, can we leave this thread to follow the OPs progress? Buying the car back was a potentially brave move but I for one will be fascinated to see how he gets on with the car now. Could be a very interesting project to watch and I'm withing the OP the best of luck with it.
PaulD86 said:
I think we all get the basics of aquaplaning so instead of lots of posts discussing it, can we leave this thread to follow the OPs progress? Buying the car back was a potentially brave move but I for one will be fascinated to see how he gets on with the car now. Could be a very interesting project to watch and I'm withing the OP the best of luck with it.
Thanks 86, or is your name D perhaps. Anyway I dont mind the chit chat about Aquaplaning. The more the merrier I say If it stops someone else doing the same thing. Not much has happened with the car. I'm hoping to get some parts this weekend. I'd like to get most of the mechanical bits for the damaged corner, so the strut, hub and arms. I want the replacement hub to have a drive shaft connected as this will save me pressing it out of the old hub. And if it has the hand brake gubbins in there too then that is another plus. So what I really want is strut, hub, handbrake, driveshaft and arms. All that really leaves is the disc, pads, caliper and wheel. I can see some hard line connected to my disconnected wheel so I'm not sure yet how to tackle that. I may need a replacement hard line. I'm not sure where that starts and stops. Then once I start looking round underneath I'll get a better feel for what else is busted - hopefully not much.
So I managed to get the car off the ground. I used some wood up to the top mount and jacked it up enough to get some wood under the big A frame which goes under the back of the car. It's been sitting on this so I'm assuming it's strong enough to hold the weight of the car.
I then removed the coffin arm which looks fine and the snapped track control arm.
I've bought a complete corner from a damaged 2.7 which is the hub, drive shaft, disc, complete strut, hand brake gubbins and all arms. The disc will be different so I will reuse my old one. I hope this will just bolt on and then I could put the wheel back on.
By buying the whole corner I've simplified what I need to do. One of the drive shaft gaitors from my old one is split and would need fettling. It's just a matter of bolting this corner on now and connecting the big wiring plug and brake pipe.
I've got 2 or 3 main concerns now.
1. The half shaft or stub axle - whatever it's called. This goes right through the gearbox to the diff on the other side. Mine looks ok but I'm just guessing really. It's a bit mucky but hopefully would clean up fine. I believe these have a circlip on the splined end which would click into the diff. I dont see this clip on mine and can't imagine how it would have fell off as it's difficult to get on and off. Could it be in pieces in the gearbox - they are meant to allow the shaft to pull out so I think is unlikely. I may be wrong about the clip as I can't find any info about my box online. The other end would presumably mount into some form of seal on the gearbox. I dont see a seal in my gearbox or on the shaft and this end of the shaft is also very mucky and rusty. So do I just clean up this shaft and push it into the box and hope for the best?
2. The flexible brake pipe from my old hub is still attached along with a small bracket and some hard pipe. Therefore I'm assuming the hard brake pipe on the car is damaged. I think I can see where the bracket attached to the car. There is some thread snapped off I've indicated in one of the pics. Clearly I can't even try driving the car until this brake pipe is replaced as I will have no brakes so I'll need to investigate where it goes.
3. Gearbox oil is low I think so I need to top this up. I'm tempted to drop the oil and put in new but no idea how complicated that is. Can I buy some for topping up from anywhere like Halfords or is it special stuff. Does anyone know what fluid to use and how to top up the PDK box?
I then removed the coffin arm which looks fine and the snapped track control arm.
I've bought a complete corner from a damaged 2.7 which is the hub, drive shaft, disc, complete strut, hand brake gubbins and all arms. The disc will be different so I will reuse my old one. I hope this will just bolt on and then I could put the wheel back on.
By buying the whole corner I've simplified what I need to do. One of the drive shaft gaitors from my old one is split and would need fettling. It's just a matter of bolting this corner on now and connecting the big wiring plug and brake pipe.
I've got 2 or 3 main concerns now.
1. The half shaft or stub axle - whatever it's called. This goes right through the gearbox to the diff on the other side. Mine looks ok but I'm just guessing really. It's a bit mucky but hopefully would clean up fine. I believe these have a circlip on the splined end which would click into the diff. I dont see this clip on mine and can't imagine how it would have fell off as it's difficult to get on and off. Could it be in pieces in the gearbox - they are meant to allow the shaft to pull out so I think is unlikely. I may be wrong about the clip as I can't find any info about my box online. The other end would presumably mount into some form of seal on the gearbox. I dont see a seal in my gearbox or on the shaft and this end of the shaft is also very mucky and rusty. So do I just clean up this shaft and push it into the box and hope for the best?
2. The flexible brake pipe from my old hub is still attached along with a small bracket and some hard pipe. Therefore I'm assuming the hard brake pipe on the car is damaged. I think I can see where the bracket attached to the car. There is some thread snapped off I've indicated in one of the pics. Clearly I can't even try driving the car until this brake pipe is replaced as I will have no brakes so I'll need to investigate where it goes.
3. Gearbox oil is low I think so I need to top this up. I'm tempted to drop the oil and put in new but no idea how complicated that is. Can I buy some for topping up from anywhere like Halfords or is it special stuff. Does anyone know what fluid to use and how to top up the PDK box?
ATM said:
3. Gearbox oil is low I think so I need to top this up. I'm tempted to drop the oil and put in new but no idea how complicated that is. Can I buy some for topping up from anywhere like Halfords or is it special stuff. Does anyone know what fluid to use and how to top up the PDK box?
I think you need to do some research on ZF PDK oil refill, there is gearbox oil and different clutch oil and the refilling process is rather complicated with getting oil up to temperature, using PIWIS amongst other things.This for instance (was for 987.2) from renntech
PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years
PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level:
For 987.2 PDK
• Engine must be idling
• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis
• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)
• Selector-lever position “P”
• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode)
• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle
• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging
• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore
• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
Lots on google search of how to but most on Macan "PDK" box - it is a different box made by a different manufacturer so best to make sure instructions are for 981/991 the ZF PDK.
Good luck
gtsralph said:
I think you need to do some research on ZF PDK oil refill, there is gearbox oil and different clutch oil and the refilling process is rather complicated with getting oil up to temperature, using PIWIS amongst other things.
This for instance (was for 987.2) from renntech
PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years
PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level:
For 987.2 PDK
• Engine must be idling
• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis
• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)
• Selector-lever position “P”
• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode)
• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle
• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging
• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore
• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
Lots on google search of how to but most on Macan "PDK" box - it is a different box made by a different manufacturer so best to make sure instructions are for 981/991 the ZF PDK.
Good luck
ThanksThis for instance (was for 987.2) from renntech
PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years
PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level:
For 987.2 PDK
• Engine must be idling
• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis
• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)
• Selector-lever position “P”
• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode)
• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle
• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging
• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore
• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
Lots on google search of how to but most on Macan "PDK" box - it is a different box made by a different manufacturer so best to make sure instructions are for 981/991 the ZF PDK.
Good luck
I'm suitably scared now.
ATM said:
Thanks
I'm suitably scared now.
Yeah, I remember looking into it for my 987.2. I'm suitably scared now.
In the end, took it to a specialist who handled it no bother.
Perhaps that's an idea, once you've got it all back together? Winch onto flatbed, get them to do all the refilling/resetting of lights?
I think your priority is like you say to make sure nothing has fallen inside the diff when the shaft left. That could really change the course of things.
Once that mystery is solved, bolt altogether and get it trailered to get trans fluid topped up along with suspension alignment.
Then bodywork. How’s the sills after hitting the ground out of curiosity? Did they get dented?
Once that mystery is solved, bolt altogether and get it trailered to get trans fluid topped up along with suspension alignment.
Then bodywork. How’s the sills after hitting the ground out of curiosity? Did they get dented?
So the wheel is back on.
I started by removing the half shaft form the broken parts. This looked ok it was just a bit mucky. Its a big heavy lump of steel so I cant imagine it being bent but it could be obviously. There is meant to be some form of circlip on the inside end which clicks into the diff. This is obviously missing. I went ahead and pushed this in anyway with a couple of knocks from my hammer and a piece of wood.
The parts arrived without a brake caliper but did have a brake disc. I was assuming this would be a different size but it looks the same. I tried removing my old disc but shredded the 2nd screw. I got the caliper off fine. I'm not sure what all the brake pipes do on the back of this so I left the caliper off for now.
My replacement parts from a 2.7 manual worked out great except for the drive shaft being 3 inches longer. I didn't realise this till I offered it up and connected the top mount. A quick measure with my hammer shows the difference. So I was ready to give up at this point but soldiered on.
I decided to fit the suspension anyway with the drive shaft just dangling down. My plan being I can remove the drive shaft more easily later once it is connected to a big heavy the car. Once the corner was back on and all bolted up I connected the big multi plug. I tried the ignition and found a lot less warnings on the dash. Previously I had 6 and now I have only 2 for brake fluid and brake pad warnings. I tried to operate the hand brake and it worked.
I then tried my big power bar with 32mm socket on the drive shaft nut. It didn't budge but I would feel my power bar flexing at this joint. So I nipped round to a friends to collect his meatier power bar. His is almost 3 foot long and has a much chunkier hinge where the socket attaches. I then extended this with my jack handle which is probably 5 foot long. So at least 6 foot of leverage got the nut off the drive shaft. I tried taping the drive shaft with a hammer but couldn't move it so its still attached to the car.
So thats where I am up to. I know the half shaft needs a circlip so really it needs to come back out and have this fitted correctly. But surely to try a simple crawl forward or backwards this should be fine just pushed in. The old circlip must be somewhere and if this is in the diff somewhere then I guess it needs retrieving. Ideally I'd like to get all new oil in the box. Maybe this is where I need some professional help.
The brake pipe needs fixing, the bracket which holds this to the inner wing needs attaching somehow, the wiring and pipes need reorganising on the hub and the brake caliper refitting. If the 2.7 and 3.4 share the same disc then I can leave this as is. The drive shaft needs sorting, my old shaft has both boots split. I dont know if the CV joints are ok as these clearly took some abuse. Maybe the CV joints from the longer shaft can be re-used.
Then maybe I can think about firing up the car but the gearbox does scare me.
I started by removing the half shaft form the broken parts. This looked ok it was just a bit mucky. Its a big heavy lump of steel so I cant imagine it being bent but it could be obviously. There is meant to be some form of circlip on the inside end which clicks into the diff. This is obviously missing. I went ahead and pushed this in anyway with a couple of knocks from my hammer and a piece of wood.
The parts arrived without a brake caliper but did have a brake disc. I was assuming this would be a different size but it looks the same. I tried removing my old disc but shredded the 2nd screw. I got the caliper off fine. I'm not sure what all the brake pipes do on the back of this so I left the caliper off for now.
My replacement parts from a 2.7 manual worked out great except for the drive shaft being 3 inches longer. I didn't realise this till I offered it up and connected the top mount. A quick measure with my hammer shows the difference. So I was ready to give up at this point but soldiered on.
I decided to fit the suspension anyway with the drive shaft just dangling down. My plan being I can remove the drive shaft more easily later once it is connected to a big heavy the car. Once the corner was back on and all bolted up I connected the big multi plug. I tried the ignition and found a lot less warnings on the dash. Previously I had 6 and now I have only 2 for brake fluid and brake pad warnings. I tried to operate the hand brake and it worked.
I then tried my big power bar with 32mm socket on the drive shaft nut. It didn't budge but I would feel my power bar flexing at this joint. So I nipped round to a friends to collect his meatier power bar. His is almost 3 foot long and has a much chunkier hinge where the socket attaches. I then extended this with my jack handle which is probably 5 foot long. So at least 6 foot of leverage got the nut off the drive shaft. I tried taping the drive shaft with a hammer but couldn't move it so its still attached to the car.
So thats where I am up to. I know the half shaft needs a circlip so really it needs to come back out and have this fitted correctly. But surely to try a simple crawl forward or backwards this should be fine just pushed in. The old circlip must be somewhere and if this is in the diff somewhere then I guess it needs retrieving. Ideally I'd like to get all new oil in the box. Maybe this is where I need some professional help.
The brake pipe needs fixing, the bracket which holds this to the inner wing needs attaching somehow, the wiring and pipes need reorganising on the hub and the brake caliper refitting. If the 2.7 and 3.4 share the same disc then I can leave this as is. The drive shaft needs sorting, my old shaft has both boots split. I dont know if the CV joints are ok as these clearly took some abuse. Maybe the CV joints from the longer shaft can be re-used.
Then maybe I can think about firing up the car but the gearbox does scare me.
Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff