12 GT4's for sale on PistonHeads and growing (Vol. 2)
Discussion
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Yep. Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
I've no experience of the N0 spec Cup 2 and, prior to buying a GT4 last year, was slightly concerned that it might spit me off into the scenery at the slightest hint of rain going by its fearsome online reputation - however a year down the line I've can completely agree that when driving to the road and conditions the N1 spec is a superb tyre. I've got a hair under 14,000 miles of daily driving in almost every weather on my current set of N1s and I've certainly not died yet!Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
I can only assume that the N0 spec was perhaps made under license by LingLong?
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Clearly driving to the tyres capability will prevent aquaplaning, but knowing it’s capability is a different thing. That takes experience in a controlled environment on any given tyre. How do you get that and how can you prepare for unseen and unexpected standing water on a motorway? I had reduced speed (clearly not enough), but I didn’t expect a manufacturer to fit a tyre that is clearly not capable of maintaining grip at below the legal speed limit on an average, standard British motorway. I’m not after an argument, but just how much do you need to slow down? That’s the point, there is no evidence of the limit until you’ve exceeded it, and unless you are very lucky, no amount of driving skill can gather it back up as you are simply not in contact with the tarmac and the cars weight and physics take over. Hindsight is wonderful. Crashing into the barrier not so much.Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Bincenzo said:
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Clearly driving to the tyres capability will prevent aquaplaning, but knowing it’s capability is a different thing. That takes experience in a controlled environment on any given tyre. How do you get that and how can you prepare for unseen and unexpected standing water on a motorway? I had reduced speed (clearly not enough), but I didn’t expect a manufacturer to fit a tyre that is clearly not capable of maintaining grip at below the legal speed limit on an average, standard British motorway. I’m not after an argument, but just how much do you need to slow down? That’s the point, there is no evidence of the limit until you’ve exceeded it, and unless you are very lucky, no amount of driving skill can gather it back up as you are simply not in contact with the tarmac and the cars weight and physics take over. Hindsight is wonderful. Crashing into the barrier not so much.Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Bincenzo said:
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Clearly driving to the tyres capability will prevent aquaplaning, but knowing it’s capability is a different thing. That takes experience in a controlled environment on any given tyre. How do you get that and how can you prepare for unseen and unexpected standing water on a motorway? I had reduced speed (clearly not enough), but I didn’t expect a manufacturer to fit a tyre that is clearly not capable of maintaining grip at below the legal speed limit on an average, standard British motorway. I’m not after an argument, but just how much do you need to slow down? That’s the point, there is no evidence of the limit until you’ve exceeded it, and unless you are very lucky, no amount of driving skill can gather it back up as you are simply not in contact with the tarmac and the cars weight and physics take over. Hindsight is wonderful. Crashing into the barrier not so much.Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
I've no experience of the N0 spec Cup 2 and, prior to buying a GT4 last year, was slightly concerned that it might spit me off into the scenery at the slightest hint of rain going by its fearsome online reputation - however a year down the line I've can completely agree that when driving to the road and conditions the N1 spec is a superb tyre. I've got a hair under 14,000 miles of daily driving in almost every weather on my current set of N1s and I've certainly not died
[/quote]
Kudos to you sir if you have got 14,000 miles out of a set of Cup 2 tyres, that is outstanding, best I have ever managed is about 6000. You must be a very “sympathetic” driver
bigmowley said:
Bincenzo said:
RacerMike said:
The N1 spec Cup2 is a lot better in standing water than the N0 was.
Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
Clearly driving to the tyres capability will prevent aquaplaning, but knowing it’s capability is a different thing. That takes experience in a controlled environment on any given tyre. How do you get that and how can you prepare for unseen and unexpected standing water on a motorway? I had reduced speed (clearly not enough), but I didn’t expect a manufacturer to fit a tyre that is clearly not capable of maintaining grip at below the legal speed limit on an average, standard British motorway. I’m not after an argument, but just how much do you need to slow down? That’s the point, there is no evidence of the limit until you’ve exceeded it, and unless you are very lucky, no amount of driving skill can gather it back up as you are simply not in contact with the tarmac and the cars weight and physics take over. Hindsight is wonderful. Crashing into the barrier not so much.Having said that, driving to the tyres capability as it gets wetter generally means it’s fine. That can mean 60mph on the motorway if it’s really bad, but 99% of the time I drive it in the dry, so I’d much rather have the correct tyres on.
For sure the clues are there in the steering. You can feel the treads if the tyres struggling to clear the water quite early on, and once you feel that, it’s time to play it safe. And generally any standing water is to be avoided or aproqched with great care.
A lot of people get scared about unrecorded write off. They are normally very easy to spot with a paint thickness gauge.
Just measure every panel at 4 different points and you will know if the car has been repainted and how many panels were affected.
As a matter of principle, I never buy a car that has been repainted even if if it is the front bumper/bonnet due to stone chips.
Just measure every panel at 4 different points and you will know if the car has been repainted and how many panels were affected.
As a matter of principle, I never buy a car that has been repainted even if if it is the front bumper/bonnet due to stone chips.
julian987R said:
oooo, thats nice shakesc said:
julian987R said:
oooo, thats nice julian987R said:
shakesc said:
julian987R said:
oooo, thats nice Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff