Brake Disc Screws Rusted 987.1 2.7L

[magycks]

As per the title the 2 little screws are rusted on all 4 corners and I can't get them out with a screwdriver (it just strips the heads)

What's the best way to get these out, especially as they're so small? I've seen these screw extractor kits so would appreciate any advice!

[Slippydiff]

If you haven’t got an impact driver :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-427633-Impact-...

and don’t want to purchase one, use this bush fix :

Use a nice sharp centre punch close (ish) to the outer radius, make a light punch mark, then angle the centre punch in this mark pointing in the direction you want to undo the screw, and hit it hard.
They normally slacken after the first couple of blows, but if not, keep going until the punch hole breaks into the crosshead slot, then do the same on the opposite side of the screw.

Edit to add YouTube link :

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gZUbKwduFNI

I was taught that before attempting to undo the retaining screws, you should use the correct size screwdriver/hex driver etc, and place it into the crosshead/hex of the retaining screw, and then hit the end of the driver/screwdriver hard with a hammer, this to jar the threads to make unscrewing the screws easier (and to ensure the driver is properly located in the head of the screw)
Not particularly good for your screwdriver handles, but it’s never failed me !!

Edited by Slippydiff on Saturday 30th May 17:03

Edited by Slippydiff on Saturday 30th May 17:08

[RobXjcoupe]

If stripped and rusted, just drill the head off the screw

[Slippydiff]

RobXjcoupe said:

If stripped and rusted, just drill the head off the screw

That’s a last resort.

[magycks]

Slippydiff said:

If you haven’t got an impact driver :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-427633-Impact-...

and don’t want to purchase one, use this bush fix :

Use a nice sharp centre punch close (ish) to the outer radius, make a light punch mark, then angle the centre punch in this mark pointing in the direction you want to undo the screw, and hit it hard.
They normally slacken after the first couple of blows, but if not, keep going until the punch hole breaks into the crosshead slot, then do the same on the opposite side of the screw.

I don't have an impact driver but I have a DeWalt hammer drill and impact wrench (both 18v) so i suppose I could buy one... just never had a use for one before. How would an impact driver help when the head of the screws are stripped / will strip before the screw turns?

RobXjcoupe said:

If stripped and rusted, just drill the head off the screw

I could do this, but then i'd be left with the rest of the screw inside the threaded hole. I want to be able to use new screws

[RobXjcoupe]

magycks said:

Slippydiff said:

If you haven’t got an impact driver :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-427633-Impact-...

and don’t want to purchase one, use this bush fix :

Use a nice sharp centre punch close (ish) to the outer radius, make a light punch mark, then angle the centre punch in this mark pointing in the direction you want to undo the screw, and hit it hard.
They normally slacken after the first couple of blows, but if not, keep going until the punch hole breaks into the crosshead slot, then do the same on the opposite side of the screw.

I don't have an impact driver but I have a DeWalt hammer drill and impact wrench (both 18v) so i suppose I could buy one... just never had a use for one before. How would an impact driver help when the head of the screws are stripped / will strip before the screw turns?

RobXjcoupe said:

If stripped and rusted, just drill the head off the screw

I could do this, but then i'd be left with the rest of the screw inside the threaded hole. I want to be able to use new screws

When the head is removed it removes the tension on the screw. Remove the disc spray the screw studs in releasing oil, let soak for a couple of hours then use a pair of mole grips clamped tightly to the stud and unscrew.

[Slippydiff]

magycks said:

Slippydiff said:

If you haven’t got an impact driver :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-427633-Impact-...

and don’t want to purchase one, use this bush fix :

Use a nice sharp centre punch close (ish) to the outer radius, make a light punch mark, then angle the centre punch in this mark pointing in the direction you want to undo the screw, and hit it hard.
They normally slacken after the first couple of blows, but if not, keep going until the punch hole breaks into the crosshead slot, then do the same on the opposite side of the screw.

I don't have an impact driver but I have a DeWalt hammer drill and impact wrench (both 18v) so i suppose I could buy one... just never had a use for one before. How would an impact driver help when the head of the screws are stripped / will strip before the screw turns?

RobXjcoupe said:

If stripped and rusted, just drill the head off the screw

I could do this, but then i'd be left with the rest of the screw inside the threaded hole. I want to be able to use new screws

Watch this (I've started just before the screw actually loosens, because watching the idiot gently tapping the punch with his hammer, after the main "blow" was getting tedious not to mention, painfully irritating)


https://youtu.be/i39N-LukmQo?t=697

He should really be using a punch with a sharper tip :

https://www.drapertools.com/product/10750/5mm-x-10...



I've yet to be defeated using this method ...

[Slippydiff]

magycks said:

Slippydiff said:

If you haven’t got an impact driver :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-427633-Impact-...

and don’t want to purchase one, use this bush fix :

Use a nice sharp centre punch close (ish) to the outer radius, make a light punch mark, then angle the centre punch in this mark pointing in the direction you want to undo the screw, and hit it hard.
They normally slacken after the first couple of blows, but if not, keep going until the punch hole breaks into the crosshead slot, then do the same on the opposite side of the screw.

I don't have an impact driver but I have a DeWalt hammer drill and impact wrench (both 18v) so i suppose I could buy one... just never had a use for one before. How would an impact driver help when the head of the screws are stripped / will strip before the screw turns?

An impact driver works in two ways : When you strike the end of it, the hammer blow ensures the bit is well located in the screw head whilst also applying a rotating force via what I imagine is a helix or cam inside the body of the impact driver.
As long as the head hasn't been totally butchered, an impact driver will often shift a stubborn screw, but using a centre punch is cheaper and every bit as effective in my experience.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og0wilzMtXY

Edited by Slippydiff on Saturday 30th May 21:07

[Spadey1]

I had the same issue when I swapped my front disks. The screw heads stripped and I ended up using a combination of a screw extraction set (basically a counterclockwise thread that bites and hopefully turns the screw) and, for a couple of them, having to drill out the head as others have suggested. If you do the drilling I would recommend starting with the smallest bit you have and gradually go up in size to avoid hitting the thread on the hub. If you are having trouble with the screws the long pin that holds the pads in is also likely to give you some grief, esp if you don’t have a long punch (it looks so simple on YouTube.....). Wd 40 and a screw driver you don’t car to much about works though. Good luck.

[Spadey1]

I had the same issue when I swapped my front disks. The screw heads stripped and I ended up using a combination of a screw extraction set (basically a counterclockwise thread that bites and hopefully turns the screw) and, for a couple of them, having to drill out the head as others have suggested. If you do the drilling I would recommend starting with the smallest bit you have and gradually go up in size to avoid hitting the thread on the hub. If you are having trouble with the screws the long pin that holds the pads in is also likely to give you some grief, esp if you don’t have a long punch (it looks so simple on YouTube.....). Wd 40 and a screw driver you don’t car to much about works though. Good luck.

Edited by Spadey1 on Sunday 31st May 13:45

[magycks]

I’ve already replaced brake pads on all 4 corners. I bought the discs to do them at the same time but came up against these screws

I’ve seen these screw extractor kits; are they a good buy / do they actually work on rusted cars as this is very different to a stripped screw around the house?

[pete.g]

Screw extractors do work, I can recommend the Bahco ones - just go slowly and patiently.

For the job described here I have always used an impact driver - a couple of good blows with a hammer and the retaining screw has come out easily.

[tozerman]

Agreed, as other have said. You need an impact driver and a big hammer. That's it..
No need to piss about drilling etc..

[magycks]

tozerman said:

Agreed, as other have said. You need an impact driver and a big hammer. That's it..
No need to piss about drilling etc..

How does a manual impact driver with a big hammer compare to an 18V battery impact wrench like the Dewalt DCF887N? Only interested in ability to remove rusted screws

[Slippydiff]

magycks said:

How does a manual impact driver with a big hammer compare to an 18V battery impact wrench like the Dewalt DCF887N? Only interested in ability to remove rusted screws

I fear you’re of the opinion your impact gun may be a substitute for an impact driver. It’s doubtful it will. The two of them work in differing ways, despite both using impact.

By all means try using your impact gun, if you can keep the bit located in the screwhead, you may be successful, but if you’re not, you’re going to round the heads off and then be back to square one and then having to utilise the methods that have already been suggested.

I don’t want to appear belligerent, but you do seem hellbent on NOT listening to what I and others are suggesting/telling you is the best way forward

[RSTurboPaul]

If these screws are just to hold the disc in place while you do the wheel nuts up, I'm sure they're not actually needed.

On that basis, no worries if you need to drill the heads off as you can just leave the rest of the screw in the hole and fit the new discs without using the new screws.

[magycks]

Slippydiff said:

I fear you’re of the opinion your impact gun may be a substitute for an impact driver. It’s doubtful it will. The two of them work in differing ways, despite both using impact.

By all means try using your impact gun, if you can keep the bit located in the screwhead, you may be successful, but if you’re not, you’re going to round the heads off and then be back to square one and then having to utilise the methods that have already been suggested.

I don’t want to appear belligerent, but you do seem hellbent on NOT listening to what I and others are suggesting/telling you is the best way forward

No no, sorry think there's a bit of confusion. To clarify:

I currently have a DeWalt Impact Wrench (DCF899N) which is not appropriate for this job and I fully accept that. Apologies if i've miscommunicated on this point.

People have suggested purchasing an impact driver which I shall most definitely do. There are manual impact drivers (like the Silverline one you very kindly recommended Slippydiff) which are used with a hammer but I'm also aware there are battery powered impact drivers like the DeWalt DCF887N (which would use the same battery as my existing impact wrench but performs a different function).

My question is what is the best tool for the job i.e. the hammer (~£10) and manual impact driver (~£10) vs an 18V electric impact driver (~£95 + battery i already have)? I'm happy to spend the money on whichever is best (or even get both)

Hope that makes sense. I've not disregarded anything that's been said but trying to ask questions where my knowledge and experience is lacking. Really appreciate all the help!

RobXjcoupe said:

When the head is removed it removes the tension on the screw. Remove the disc spray the screw studs in releasing oil, let soak for a couple of hours then use a pair of mole grips clamped tightly to the stud and unscrew.

Thanks for the tip on releasing oil; I have ordered some WD40 Fast Release Penetrant

[steveo3002]

get the hammer one ...prefer a better brand than silverline

if that fails drill the heads off

[magycks]

steveo3002 said:

get the hammer one ...prefer a better brand than silverline

if that fails drill the heads off

Thanks. Any brand/product recommendations?

[pete.g]

magycks said:

steveo3002 said:

get the hammer one ...prefer a better brand than silverline

if that fails drill the heads off

Thanks. Any brand/product recommendations?

I have a Draper one which works fine and is slightly higher up the tool food chain than Silverline, but I only use it sparingly. I use anti-slip, copper grease and products like Duralac when I reassemble things so I won’t need it much.

You can spend A LOT on tools - I use Bahco and occasionally splash out on Wera, but I wouldn’t buy an impact driver from the better producers - £££££!