Air cooled Porsche becoming very collectible but what model
Discussion
I've been doing a lot of research on which model to invest, I've listened to some of the most influential people in the Porsche world who all seem to suggest the same thing,the car must be an original uk car, matching numbers and as original as possible which seems common sense, now taking the early turbos, 911s and the rs versions out the equations which are well out my range the big wigs seem to be pointing towards the early 911sc's especially the 3 litre model from 1978 to1983, this is apparently purely because of the lack of cars around of this age and because of the actual amount of cars produced for the uk market in comparison to the later 3.2 cars, it also seems that the coupe version is the most desirable version by far especially in uncommon colours such as guards red.
I've looked around and basket case cars are tend to start around 25/30k up to mint examples in excess of 90k.
Any thoughts or advice welcome.....
I've looked around and basket case cars are tend to start around 25/30k up to mint examples in excess of 90k.
Any thoughts or advice welcome.....
I think prices have levelled out. But, more significantly, buyers are much more discerning, so the very best examples will remain sought after, but anything high mileage, modified, targas, tiptronics, or needing costly repairs (rust!!!) will be less desirable and cheaper.
I don't think you can buy safely at £25-30k - I would have thought decent air cooled models are going to start at £40k +.
I don't think you can buy safely at £25-30k - I would have thought decent air cooled models are going to start at £40k +.
^^^^^^^^
what Koln says. I have a 3.2 Coupe for sale but it is not matching numbers. It lunched a big end bearing and I bought a complete, fully rebuilt engine for a race car project that never happened off a good friend. A third of the price for what it would have cost for a complete rebuild. But my asking price reflects this as a sub £40K at £38K
what Koln says. I have a 3.2 Coupe for sale but it is not matching numbers. It lunched a big end bearing and I bought a complete, fully rebuilt engine for a race car project that never happened off a good friend. A third of the price for what it would have cost for a complete rebuild. But my asking price reflects this as a sub £40K at £38K
av185 said:
jake-gq0ps said:
I've been doing a lot of research on which model to invest,
Got to love a good old investment thread instead of all these boring driving threads.....I think buying a car like this you've got to really get to know the market as well as the mdoel you want to buy as the price range is so big. I'd also probably try and low ball a few cars that you might not actually want to buy (especially if there at dealers you ultimately wouldn't want to buy through so you don't get a reputation as a time waster)...try and find out where the real selling price is . So that when you find the right car you've got a really good feel for the market.
I don't think the air cooled market is in rude health at the moment especially once you start getting up to and over £100k.
I don't think the air cooled market is in rude health at the moment especially once you start getting up to and over £100k.
The very best of luck to you. I think to have any success here you need to know a lot about the cars and the market. And I mean a lot.
Then you either need a time-machine to look at prices in the future or a massive dose of luck.
My rather more positive suggestion is to research the kind of 911 you would like to own (assuming you have any interest in driving and car ownership), then buy a good middle of the range car at a middle price. Then you have a nice car and some hope that it won't go down in price and some hope it won't cost you a fortune to maintain/put right.
You absolutely have to avoid 'projects' and anything with rust at all costs (literally).
HTH
Bert
Then you either need a time-machine to look at prices in the future or a massive dose of luck.
My rather more positive suggestion is to research the kind of 911 you would like to own (assuming you have any interest in driving and car ownership), then buy a good middle of the range car at a middle price. Then you have a nice car and some hope that it won't go down in price and some hope it won't cost you a fortune to maintain/put right.
You absolutely have to avoid 'projects' and anything with rust at all costs (literally).
HTH
Bert
jake-gq0ps said:
I've been doing a lot of research on which model to invest, I've listened to some of the most influential people in the Porsche world who all seem to suggest the same thing,the car must be an original uk car, matching numbers and as original as possible which seems common sense, now taking the early turbos, 911s and the rs versions out the equations which are well out my range the big wigs seem to be pointing towards the early 911sc's especially the 3 litre model from 1978 to1983, this is apparently purely because of the lack of cars around of this age and because of the actual amount of cars produced for the uk market in comparison to the later 3.2 cars, it also seems that the coupe version is the most desirable version by far especially in uncommon colours such as guards red.
I've looked around and basket case cars are tend to start around 25/30k up to mint examples in excess of 90k.
Any thoughts or advice welcome.....
I've looked around and basket case cars are tend to start around 25/30k up to mint examples in excess of 90k.
Any thoughts or advice welcome.....
BertBert said:
You absolutely have to avoid 'projects' and anything with rust at all costs (literally).
I would caveat that by suggesting part of getting to know the cars properly to make an informed decision, is for instance understanding that on certain models say a 993 or 964, rust bubbles on the front or rear scuttle should not really be a reason to reject a UK car. They all get this at a certain point in their life due to the cars' inherent design from the factory and it's not particularly expensive to fix. That said, the fact that it hasn't been fixed may well be a sign that the owner/dealer has not cared for the car as you would expect....a reason in itself to walk away. But it's not quite as simple as 'any sign of rust = walk away'. You are right it's a bit more nuanced than that. But as a general rule, you want to avoid projects! I bought a 993 with the usual rust spots.
Took quite a bit of bodywork and paint to resolve, not to mention a cracked front screen when it came out. Not helping one's investment case at all!
Took quite a bit of bodywork and paint to resolve, not to mention a cracked front screen when it came out. Not helping one's investment case at all!
n12maser said:
But it's not quite as simple as 'any sign of rust = walk away'.
High mileage 993 C2 with full history. You won't make much money on it, but you won't lose any either, you'll know it ain't been clocked (or at least less clocked) , it will show what's been spent and the 993 engine can cover 250K miles without a rebuild if looked after.
I own one, I've also owned a 2.7, 3.2 and 964. Imo the 993 is the best of the bunch and better value for money compared to the earlier cars v high mileage.
Look over at 911UK.com and see the mileage chart on these cars ........ theres also one for sale (no not mine ) at £32.5K, high mileage (well not really for a 23 years old car) , fab history, sport seats and a manual coupe to boot. Bloody bargain compared to some of the tarted up lower mileage examples out there at £20K more.
I own one, I've also owned a 2.7, 3.2 and 964. Imo the 993 is the best of the bunch and better value for money compared to the earlier cars v high mileage.
Look over at 911UK.com and see the mileage chart on these cars ........ theres also one for sale (no not mine ) at £32.5K, high mileage (well not really for a 23 years old car) , fab history, sport seats and a manual coupe to boot. Bloody bargain compared to some of the tarted up lower mileage examples out there at £20K more.
Edited by Wozy68 on Sunday 14th January 10:06
Additional sources of information can be found on Impact Bumpers website and PCGB website.
Many of the PCGB registers for classic models on the website have posted useful buyers guides. Very useful.
Values for impact bumpers softened in 2017. I had a 7% increase in valuation a few months ago which is down from previous years increases but still a decent increase. It is my only vehicle for 20 years and I do use it. 5 years ago when prices starting dramatically increasing I started viewing it as a part of my investment portfolio.
My recommendation would be to approach it as you would a stock purchase. Do your homework and have a strategy (long-term vs short-term).
Many of the PCGB registers for classic models on the website have posted useful buyers guides. Very useful.
Values for impact bumpers softened in 2017. I had a 7% increase in valuation a few months ago which is down from previous years increases but still a decent increase. It is my only vehicle for 20 years and I do use it. 5 years ago when prices starting dramatically increasing I started viewing it as a part of my investment portfolio.
My recommendation would be to approach it as you would a stock purchase. Do your homework and have a strategy (long-term vs short-term).
Porsche911R said:
I thought prices were dropping, so not a great investment imo if that's what you are buying for.
This - market is soft and that boat has sailed - if you buy now it should be for no reason other than for the love of the car and the ownership experience - best reason of all - about time they became cars again. Good luck .
BTW - I agree matching numbers and originality is important - but I don’t think a car has to be a UK car by the way.
Edited by RSVP911 on Sunday 14th January 21:00
n12maser said:
BertBert said:
You absolutely have to avoid 'projects' and anything with rust at all costs (literally).
I would caveat that by suggesting part of getting to know the cars properly to make an informed decision, is for instance understanding that on certain models say a 993 or 964, rust bubbles on the front or rear scuttle should not really be a reason to reject a UK car. They all get this at a certain point in their life due to the cars' inherent design from the factory and it's not particularly expensive to fix. That said, the fact that it hasn't been fixed may well be a sign that the owner/dealer has not cared for the car as you would expect....a reason in itself to walk away. But it's not quite as simple as 'any sign of rust = walk away'. As a spec pick a manual narrow bodied coupe in a sensible colour with leather. Buy on condition, avoid rust. Look for a history showing all the usual jobs (clutch, brakes, pipes and servicing).
Try an SC, 3.2 Carrera (87-88 with G50), 964 or 993.
Get it checkec by a recommended specialist.
Buy the one you enjoy driving the most.
Try an SC, 3.2 Carrera (87-88 with G50), 964 or 993.
Get it checkec by a recommended specialist.
Buy the one you enjoy driving the most.
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