Every day tips for living with a 599
Discussion
Ted Maul said:
Hughesie said:
The biggest problem with the nuts is the mild steel, they rust from the inside out, as I found out braking into Vale on a slow down lap, a
Lap earlier i was doing a lot more !
Took out my Rear CC Disc, Rear Wheel/Tyre and Calliper.
Made a right old mess and proper pee'd off the Corsa Clienti in the next session which was delayed whilst a million bits of CCD were picked up
Are you a member of an FOC WhatsApp group? I think I read about that somewhere, scary stuff. Bet it made a right bang when it went.Lap earlier i was doing a lot more !
Took out my Rear CC Disc, Rear Wheel/Tyre and Calliper.
Made a right old mess and proper pee'd off the Corsa Clienti in the next session which was delayed whilst a million bits of CCD were picked up
cake eater said:
Hughesie said:
. . . Yeah i am, . . .
There's an FOC UK WhatsApp group!? 
How do you get added to that?
Test Fabric has arrived from https://www.ukhide.co.uk/ who are fabric suppliers to Tillett.
The correct Ferrari colour codes for my car are:
Bordeaux 4481
Nero 8500
Both available from UK Hide. Colour match is okay but there is a little more texture, not the same smooth Nappa of OEM. Will hopefully be okay on the seat and not so noticeable in the car.
I have chosen to have the black section as Dinamica (better wear resistance than alcantara) and will make the seat more grippy.
Mounting of the seats we will have see. I contacted https://www.plantedtechnology.com/ for a subframe as I believe that 430 is the same. We'll see once Lee has taken some measurements and I can get back to Planted.
The correct Ferrari colour codes for my car are:
Bordeaux 4481
Nero 8500
Both available from UK Hide. Colour match is okay but there is a little more texture, not the same smooth Nappa of OEM. Will hopefully be okay on the seat and not so noticeable in the car.
I have chosen to have the black section as Dinamica (better wear resistance than alcantara) and will make the seat more grippy.
Mounting of the seats we will have see. I contacted https://www.plantedtechnology.com/ for a subframe as I believe that 430 is the same. We'll see once Lee has taken some measurements and I can get back to Planted.
DeejRC said:
Do they state full or semi aniline on the sample?
Now that I don't know.This is product link on their website, which states:
https://www.ukhide.co.uk/product/basis-nappa-for-f...
Description
Automotive OEM smooth nappa hide.
Something very surprising arrived at MDL Supercars.
The bevel gear from Ferrari! A minimum of two months before the earliest date given by Ferrari.
I'm glad I don't have to have one made but I am also a little nervous that it's an older production with material hardness issue. I will get all the gears including the bevel gear Isotropic Super Finished, so this should help.
The bevel gear from Ferrari! A minimum of two months before the earliest date given by Ferrari.
I'm glad I don't have to have one made but I am also a little nervous that it's an older production with material hardness issue. I will get all the gears including the bevel gear Isotropic Super Finished, so this should help.
cake eater said:
I'm glad I don't have to have one made but I am also a little nervous that it's an older production with material hardness issue. I will get all the gears including the bevel gear Isotropic Super Finished, so this should help.
Do you already have all the drawings/cad files to make one? I wondering if it's worth taking all the relevant measurements from this brand new one in case you ever have to recreate it in future.Great news it's so ahead of schedule!
leglessAlex said:
cake eater said:
I'm glad I don't have to have one made but I am also a little nervous that it's an older production with material hardness issue. I will get all the gears including the bevel gear Isotropic Super Finished, so this should help.
Do you already have all the drawings/cad files to make one? I wondering if it's worth taking all the relevant measurements from this brand new one in case you ever have to recreate it in future.Great news it's so ahead of schedule!
It's a good idea to get the new one scanned.
cake eater said:
DeejRC said:
Grrr, some bugger bought the manual 599 @ £105k.
Post the link to the advert if it's still up https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-spottedykywt/t...
75k including buyers fee! Bargain! That's 30k of repair bills in your pocket for later
Today is exciting for me. Not actually build progress but side project for 599 aero. Lee at MDL Supercars sent me these pics
"Spots" being added to the car for the 3D scan
Mike from https://formeon.co.uk/ setting up
MPP are there before me with an XX look (not XX Evo) though some detail is hard to see with the black on black and I don't know what they've done to the underbody aero. I'm looking forward to seeing the full video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ROF77S6UXxE?si=yiL6QcEp...
By the way? Is it "old" to say video? Old like me and the 599
"Spots" being added to the car for the 3D scan
Mike from https://formeon.co.uk/ setting up
MPP are there before me with an XX look (not XX Evo) though some detail is hard to see with the black on black and I don't know what they've done to the underbody aero. I'm looking forward to seeing the full video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ROF77S6UXxE?si=yiL6QcEp...
By the way? Is it "old" to say video? Old like me and the 599
Build progress has taken one step forward and two back. The crank rotating assembly and flywheel are back from balancing. I don't have the exact numbers but once I get the report, I'll update but I couldn't resist posting pics.
Connecting rods, it's clear to see how the big ends have been "shaved'
Close up of the little end
Crank
Apparently the balance was quite a bit out, good in relative terms, and easy to work on. Once I get the "numbers" I'll update.
The two steps back are the heads. They were due back at MDL today but turns out the OEM valve guides were out of spec and now need to be sent for finishing. Brand new vales, guides, springs etc were bought from Ferrari and I would have thought everything would just bolt together. I guess not.
I have been told that maybe the valve guides aren't finished to spec because that needs to be done to the valve, that the guides are the same across a range of engines but not the valves? Who knows?
Connecting rods, it's clear to see how the big ends have been "shaved'
Close up of the little end
Crank
Apparently the balance was quite a bit out, good in relative terms, and easy to work on. Once I get the "numbers" I'll update.
The two steps back are the heads. They were due back at MDL today but turns out the OEM valve guides were out of spec and now need to be sent for finishing. Brand new vales, guides, springs etc were bought from Ferrari and I would have thought everything would just bolt together. I guess not.
I have been told that maybe the valve guides aren't finished to spec because that needs to be done to the valve, that the guides are the same across a range of engines but not the valves? Who knows?
I've also been working on a engine break in procedure. Unfortunately Dyno break in isn't possible.
I've tried to match the gearbox schedule to the engine schedule to optimise ramp time. I've also not wanted to use the running in oil for longer as recommended but Opie and gone for a lighter oil to help continued piston ring sealing. It's very hard to find consistent advice about this so I've kind of gone with a middle ground that makes me feel happy.
Ferrari 599 GTB – Engine & Gearbox Break-In Procedure (Final Specification)
Vehicle: Ferrari 599 GTB (F140C V12)
Engine Specification: New pistons and rings, balanced rotating assembly, isotropic superfinished components
Transmission Specification: Rebuilt gearbox and LSD (ZF clutch-type, 4-plate, 45%/30% lock, ~60 Nm preload)
---
1. Objectives
- Achieve optimal piston ring sealing
- Ensure correct bedding of engine internals, gearbox gears, and LSD clutch packs
- Maximise long-term reliability and performance
---
2. Approved Oils
Engine Oils
- Stage 1 (0–50 miles): Millers Running-In Oil
- Stage 2 (50–300 miles): Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (5W-40)
- Stage 3 (300–1500 miles): Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-50)
- Post Break-In: Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-60)
Gearbox & Differential Oil
- Motul Gear 300 75W-90
- Add Limited Slip Friction Modifier at 50% of recommended dose initially (50% = 1 tube per 5 ltrs)
---
3. Pre-Start Procedure
- Prime oil system before first start (crank without fuel/ignition until oil pressure is achieved)
- Verify:
- Oil pressure
- Coolant system integrity
- No leaks
---
4. Initial Engine Run (0–30 minutes)
- Maintain 2,000–3,000 rpm, varying continuously
- Do not allow extended idling
- Monitor:
- Oil pressure
- Coolant temperature
- Abnormal noises
Oil: Millers Running-In Oil
---
5. Early Driving Phase (0–50 miles) – Critical Ring Seating
Conditions:
- Engine oil temperature must exceed 80°C before load
Driving Method:
- Use 3rd gear primarily
Load Cycles:
- Accelerate from 2,500 → 4,500 rpm
- Apply 50–70% throttle
- Immediately lift off and allow engine braking back to ~2,500 rpm
- Repeat 10–15 cycles per drive session
Restrictions:
- No full throttle
- No RPM above 5,000
- Avoid constant-speed driving
- Avoid low-RPM high-load (lugging)
---
6. Engine Oil Change #1 (30–50 miles)
- Drain Millers Running-In Oil (including oil cooler)
- Replace oil filter
- Inspect oil and filter for debris, cut open filter
---
7. Intermediate Driving Phase (50–300 miles)
Oil:
- Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (5W-40)
Driving Method:
- Increase load progressively
- Operate between 2,500 → 5,200 rpm
- Increase throttle up to 70–80%
Continue:
- Frequent acceleration and engine braking cycles
- Avoid prolonged steady cruising
---
8. Engine Oil Change #2 (300 miles)
- Replace oil and filter, cut open filter and check for debris
- Continue with Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-50)
---
9. Advanced Break-In Phase (500–1500 miles)
Driving Method:
- Gradually introduce:
- Higher RPM (progressively toward redline)
- Short full-throttle bursts (only when fully warm)
Continue:
- Avoid sustained high-speed operation
- Maintain varied load conditions
---
10. Engine Oil Change #3 (~1500 miles)
- Replace oil and filter
- Transition to:
- Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-60)
---
11. Gearbox & LSD Break-In Procedure
Oil:
- Motul Gear 300 75W-90
- Add friction modifier at 50% initial dose: Amsoil Slip Lock Limited-Slip Additive, 1 tube to first fill of gearbox
---
Driving Procedure:
0–50 miles:
- Moderate driving only
- No full throttle
- No aggressive shifting
- Avoid shock loading
50–300 miles:
- Gradually increase load
- Introduce firmer shifts progressively
Note - 50–150 miles, If you notice:
- chatter in tight turns
- grabbing/binding at low speed. Add: ~¼ tube more of Amsoil
300 miles: change gearbox oil
300–500 miles:
- Continue progressive loading
- Normal driving may begin (excluding aggressive use)
---
12. Gearbox Oil Change Schedule
- First change: 300 miles
- Second change: 1000–1500 miles
---
13. LSD Friction Modifier Adjustment
- Initial fill: 50% recommended dose (1 tube per 5 ltrs)
- If chatter or binding occurs:
- Increase incrementally in small amounts (1/4 tube per 5 ltrs)
- Avoid overuse (reduces locking effectiveness)
---
14. Thermal Management Guidelines
- Minimum oil temperature before load: 80°C
- Avoid oil temperatures exceeding 120°C during early phases
- Allow cooldown periods between load cycles
---
15. Key Precautions
- Avoid prolonged idling
- Avoid constant RPM driving (motorway cruising)
- Avoid full throttle during early stages
- Avoid low-RPM high-load operation
- Ensure progressive increase in load and RPM
---
16. Notes
- Engine produces high torque in midrange; optimal ring seating occurs in 3,000–5,000 rpm range
- Controlled load cycles (acceleration + engine braking) are critical
- Procedure is designed specifically for road-based break-in (no dyno use)
---
End of Document
Note: engine 12 ltr capacity, gearbox 5 ltr
Opie oils recommendations
I've tried to match the gearbox schedule to the engine schedule to optimise ramp time. I've also not wanted to use the running in oil for longer as recommended but Opie and gone for a lighter oil to help continued piston ring sealing. It's very hard to find consistent advice about this so I've kind of gone with a middle ground that makes me feel happy.
Ferrari 599 GTB – Engine & Gearbox Break-In Procedure (Final Specification)
Vehicle: Ferrari 599 GTB (F140C V12)
Engine Specification: New pistons and rings, balanced rotating assembly, isotropic superfinished components
Transmission Specification: Rebuilt gearbox and LSD (ZF clutch-type, 4-plate, 45%/30% lock, ~60 Nm preload)
---
1. Objectives
- Achieve optimal piston ring sealing
- Ensure correct bedding of engine internals, gearbox gears, and LSD clutch packs
- Maximise long-term reliability and performance
---
2. Approved Oils
Engine Oils
- Stage 1 (0–50 miles): Millers Running-In Oil
- Stage 2 (50–300 miles): Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (5W-40)
- Stage 3 (300–1500 miles): Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-50)
- Post Break-In: Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-60)
Gearbox & Differential Oil
- Motul Gear 300 75W-90
- Add Limited Slip Friction Modifier at 50% of recommended dose initially (50% = 1 tube per 5 ltrs)
---
3. Pre-Start Procedure
- Prime oil system before first start (crank without fuel/ignition until oil pressure is achieved)
- Verify:
- Oil pressure
- Coolant system integrity
- No leaks
---
4. Initial Engine Run (0–30 minutes)
- Maintain 2,000–3,000 rpm, varying continuously
- Do not allow extended idling
- Monitor:
- Oil pressure
- Coolant temperature
- Abnormal noises
Oil: Millers Running-In Oil
---
5. Early Driving Phase (0–50 miles) – Critical Ring Seating
Conditions:
- Engine oil temperature must exceed 80°C before load
Driving Method:
- Use 3rd gear primarily
Load Cycles:
- Accelerate from 2,500 → 4,500 rpm
- Apply 50–70% throttle
- Immediately lift off and allow engine braking back to ~2,500 rpm
- Repeat 10–15 cycles per drive session
Restrictions:
- No full throttle
- No RPM above 5,000
- Avoid constant-speed driving
- Avoid low-RPM high-load (lugging)
---
6. Engine Oil Change #1 (30–50 miles)
- Drain Millers Running-In Oil (including oil cooler)
- Replace oil filter
- Inspect oil and filter for debris, cut open filter
---
7. Intermediate Driving Phase (50–300 miles)
Oil:
- Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (5W-40)
Driving Method:
- Increase load progressively
- Operate between 2,500 → 5,200 rpm
- Increase throttle up to 70–80%
Continue:
- Frequent acceleration and engine braking cycles
- Avoid prolonged steady cruising
---
8. Engine Oil Change #2 (300 miles)
- Replace oil and filter, cut open filter and check for debris
- Continue with Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-50)
---
9. Advanced Break-In Phase (500–1500 miles)
Driving Method:
- Gradually introduce:
- Higher RPM (progressively toward redline)
- Short full-throttle bursts (only when fully warm)
Continue:
- Avoid sustained high-speed operation
- Maintain varied load conditions
---
10. Engine Oil Change #3 (~1500 miles)
- Replace oil and filter
- Transition to:
- Millers CFS / CFS NT+ (10W-60)
---
11. Gearbox & LSD Break-In Procedure
Oil:
- Motul Gear 300 75W-90
- Add friction modifier at 50% initial dose: Amsoil Slip Lock Limited-Slip Additive, 1 tube to first fill of gearbox
---
Driving Procedure:
0–50 miles:
- Moderate driving only
- No full throttle
- No aggressive shifting
- Avoid shock loading
50–300 miles:
- Gradually increase load
- Introduce firmer shifts progressively
Note - 50–150 miles, If you notice:
- chatter in tight turns
- grabbing/binding at low speed. Add: ~¼ tube more of Amsoil
300 miles: change gearbox oil
300–500 miles:
- Continue progressive loading
- Normal driving may begin (excluding aggressive use)
---
12. Gearbox Oil Change Schedule
- First change: 300 miles
- Second change: 1000–1500 miles
---
13. LSD Friction Modifier Adjustment
- Initial fill: 50% recommended dose (1 tube per 5 ltrs)
- If chatter or binding occurs:
- Increase incrementally in small amounts (1/4 tube per 5 ltrs)
- Avoid overuse (reduces locking effectiveness)
---
14. Thermal Management Guidelines
- Minimum oil temperature before load: 80°C
- Avoid oil temperatures exceeding 120°C during early phases
- Allow cooldown periods between load cycles
---
15. Key Precautions
- Avoid prolonged idling
- Avoid constant RPM driving (motorway cruising)
- Avoid full throttle during early stages
- Avoid low-RPM high-load operation
- Ensure progressive increase in load and RPM
---
16. Notes
- Engine produces high torque in midrange; optimal ring seating occurs in 3,000–5,000 rpm range
- Controlled load cycles (acceleration + engine braking) are critical
- Procedure is designed specifically for road-based break-in (no dyno use)
---
End of Document
Note: engine 12 ltr capacity, gearbox 5 ltr
Opie oils recommendations
Cake,
I would not bother with the Motul Transaxle oil and the LSD additive.
Just use MOTUL 300 75w90 LS - it comes with their fancy limited slip additive already in. I use it in my GT3, 928 GTS race car, 944 Turbo Cup and Maserati GranTurismo Sport F1 (identical box to yours). You have a far bigger chance of galling the LSD clutch plates with "pure" MOTUL 75w90 during break in. Just use the factory specified oil with the LS additive.
AMSOIL is good too - have used it in the past with good results, but i am biased towards MOTUL - great product and easily available, and genuinely tested and used in the harshest conditons - 24hr Le Mans/Ring/Spa etc...
I would not bother with the Motul Transaxle oil and the LSD additive.
Just use MOTUL 300 75w90 LS - it comes with their fancy limited slip additive already in. I use it in my GT3, 928 GTS race car, 944 Turbo Cup and Maserati GranTurismo Sport F1 (identical box to yours). You have a far bigger chance of galling the LSD clutch plates with "pure" MOTUL 75w90 during break in. Just use the factory specified oil with the LS additive.
AMSOIL is good too - have used it in the past with good results, but i am biased towards MOTUL - great product and easily available, and genuinely tested and used in the harshest conditons - 24hr Le Mans/Ring/Spa etc...
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