e gear hints and tips please...
Discussion
batman, you were meant to start this thread, so here goes....
would love to hear from the veterans please.... have read the manual several times....
do you lift during upchanges? downchanges? manual says do not...
manual says do not do quick successive shifts... how then do you go from 5 to 2 under hard breaking?
when in 1st and on the brake pedal, is the clutch being slipped? cos the car doesn;t move when you come off the brake..
how do you preserve clutch life? selecting neutral at stops, ok, but do you select N under braking?
thanks..
would love to hear from the veterans please.... have read the manual several times....
do you lift during upchanges? downchanges? manual says do not...
manual says do not do quick successive shifts... how then do you go from 5 to 2 under hard breaking?
when in 1st and on the brake pedal, is the clutch being slipped? cos the car doesn;t move when you come off the brake..
how do you preserve clutch life? selecting neutral at stops, ok, but do you select N under braking?
thanks..
Here's last months thread for starters http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I wonder how many more there are ?
I wonder how many more there are ?
try :
1. let the fast idle subside before attempting to manoeuvre
2. get the clutch fully engaged before hoofing it away from the lights
3. neutral whenever coming to a halt ( clutch is wearing at biting point when stationary in gear )
4. never slip the clutch to go really slowly in traffic
5. avoid parallel parking, multi-point turns, stop-start traffic
6. especially avoid all the above on hills
20% worn at 19.6k miles
1. let the fast idle subside before attempting to manoeuvre
2. get the clutch fully engaged before hoofing it away from the lights
3. neutral whenever coming to a halt ( clutch is wearing at biting point when stationary in gear )
4. never slip the clutch to go really slowly in traffic
5. avoid parallel parking, multi-point turns, stop-start traffic
6. especially avoid all the above on hills
20% worn at 19.6k miles
andrew said:
yeah
i use very little throttle up to walking pace whilst the egear is getting engaged
thanks matei use very little throttle up to walking pace whilst the egear is getting engaged
i thought the gear changes were lightening fast at whatever speed, a mere milli-seconds... though i think you can hear the hydralics for a seconds or so....at least i think thats what i was listening to y'day until the roar of the exhaust kicked in!
OP, thanks for posting
Sport mode seems real quick change wise.
My exit out the garage going slightly up hill is not good i have to give it some.
Tried leaving said garage at around 40 mph ,seemed better but kinda scary.
I find it much better to throttle off just slightly and tap the paddle, Up shift, if you dont it sounds like it would if you dipped the clutch on a 6 sp manual with your right foot planted.
Maybe what seems odd when pulling away with egear is you feather that motion with the throttle
only and not with your left and right toes,if that makes sense.
Out at the weekend,stop at some lights ,put it in neutral yeah yeah foot on the brake pedal,
lights go amber,tap lever..................................................................
nothing ,check foot is actualy on b/pedal yep tap lever again nope nothing,panic take foot off
then back on b/pedal tap lever ah 1st gear there it is.Dodgy brake light switch ??
To me it seems the faster your going the faster the shift?
Also noticed coming up to a roundabout be in the gear you need to go round it ,paddle wont be where you need it when on some lock.
Egear i just love it,just takes a bit to get used to.
cheers
Sport mode seems real quick change wise.
My exit out the garage going slightly up hill is not good i have to give it some.
Tried leaving said garage at around 40 mph ,seemed better but kinda scary.
I find it much better to throttle off just slightly and tap the paddle, Up shift, if you dont it sounds like it would if you dipped the clutch on a 6 sp manual with your right foot planted.
Maybe what seems odd when pulling away with egear is you feather that motion with the throttle
only and not with your left and right toes,if that makes sense.
Out at the weekend,stop at some lights ,put it in neutral yeah yeah foot on the brake pedal,
lights go amber,tap lever..................................................................
nothing ,check foot is actualy on b/pedal yep tap lever again nope nothing,panic take foot off
then back on b/pedal tap lever ah 1st gear there it is.Dodgy brake light switch ??
To me it seems the faster your going the faster the shift?
Also noticed coming up to a roundabout be in the gear you need to go round it ,paddle wont be where you need it when on some lock.
Egear i just love it,just takes a bit to get used to.
cheers
andrew said:
try :
1. let the fast idle subside before attempting to manoeuvre
2. get the clutch fully engaged before hoofing it away from the lights
3. neutral whenever coming to a halt ( clutch is wearing at biting point when stationary in gear )
4. never slip the clutch to go really slowly in traffic
5. avoid parallel parking, multi-point turns, stop-start traffic
6. especially avoid all the above on hills
20% worn at 19.6k miles
<noexperienceofegear>Ref one of the earlier posts, if the car doesn't move when you take your foot off the brake when stationary, I don't think it can biting (and hence wearing) at that point? 1. let the fast idle subside before attempting to manoeuvre
2. get the clutch fully engaged before hoofing it away from the lights
3. neutral whenever coming to a halt ( clutch is wearing at biting point when stationary in gear )
4. never slip the clutch to go really slowly in traffic
5. avoid parallel parking, multi-point turns, stop-start traffic
6. especially avoid all the above on hills
20% worn at 19.6k miles
</noexperienceofegear>Edited by Mario149 on Tuesday 15th November 22:53
Edited by Mario149 on Tuesday 15th November 22:53
The important thing to remember it is a manual transmission with an automtic clutch and the option of auto gear selection. It is not an automatic transmission as per the normal slush box or even DCT boxes.
Drive it the same way as you would a manual with no excessive clutch slip and you will have no issues. A lot of rubbish is talked about these semi automatic transmissions with regard to clutch life. Driven correctly the clutch will last longer than a manual clutch. The problem is that it is very easy to abuse if you drive it like a conventional auto. Never, never, never hold the vehicle on the throttle. Clutch slip is the enemy of clutch life. Never do anything to cause excessive clutch slip. Treat the clutch as you would the clutch on a manual and it will last. Always hold it on the brake. Drive it like a normal auto and you can easily destroy the clutch in less than 4000 miles.
I was involved in the very early development of these style of transmisions back in the early 80's. They were originally developed for the truck industry who were using them even before the rally boys (prodrive looked at our system before adopting a system for rally cars) and a decade before Ferrari started using it for road cars. The big advantage of the auto clutch aspect is that it will do optimised clutch engagements for a given situation. However it is very easy to make the system give an engagement that is optimised for performance not life. Very similar to slipping or forever riding a manual clutch.
The truck industry adopted it for a number of reasons included improved fuel consumption, easier to drive and extended clutch life to reduce the truck down time. Correctly driven (the key word being correctly) a clutch in a semi automatic transmission was proven to last longer than a manual system clutch.
Just for information the clutch on my LP560 at its last service (just under 6000 miles) was 2% worn.
Drive it the same way as you would a manual with no excessive clutch slip and you will have no issues. A lot of rubbish is talked about these semi automatic transmissions with regard to clutch life. Driven correctly the clutch will last longer than a manual clutch. The problem is that it is very easy to abuse if you drive it like a conventional auto. Never, never, never hold the vehicle on the throttle. Clutch slip is the enemy of clutch life. Never do anything to cause excessive clutch slip. Treat the clutch as you would the clutch on a manual and it will last. Always hold it on the brake. Drive it like a normal auto and you can easily destroy the clutch in less than 4000 miles.
I was involved in the very early development of these style of transmisions back in the early 80's. They were originally developed for the truck industry who were using them even before the rally boys (prodrive looked at our system before adopting a system for rally cars) and a decade before Ferrari started using it for road cars. The big advantage of the auto clutch aspect is that it will do optimised clutch engagements for a given situation. However it is very easy to make the system give an engagement that is optimised for performance not life. Very similar to slipping or forever riding a manual clutch.
The truck industry adopted it for a number of reasons included improved fuel consumption, easier to drive and extended clutch life to reduce the truck down time. Correctly driven (the key word being correctly) a clutch in a semi automatic transmission was proven to last longer than a manual system clutch.
Just for information the clutch on my LP560 at its last service (just under 6000 miles) was 2% worn.
martisracing said:
Drive it the same way as you would a manual with no excessive clutch slip and you will have no issues. Clutch slip is the enemy of clutch life. Never do anything to cause excessive clutch slip. Treat the clutch as you would the clutch on a manual and it will last. Always hold it on the brake.
Just for information the clutch on my LP560 at its last service (just under 6000 miles) was 2% worn.
great most mate..... given we have no clutch pedal, i assume then it all comes down to how you modulate the loud pedal..... so could you elaborate....on how you drive, eg lift on upshift, i assume yes....thanksJust for information the clutch on my LP560 at its last service (just under 6000 miles) was 2% worn.
It is really trying to drive it like you would a manual so try and show sympathy for the clutch at all times.
As other listers have said avoid full throttle starts as the clutch will slip until it speed matches. On up shifts the throttle pedal lift it is not a full lift. It is really a very slight curling of the toes. You know when you get it right as the shift will be really smooth. I do not always bother apart from when in town at low speed so I do not think it has a huge effect when getting a move on (quick shifts mean quick clutch engagements with minimised slip time).
I always put into neutral at lights or when stopped. You do not need to do this as the system will fully disengage the clutch but it stops the system partially engaging the clutch if you have your foot lightly touching the throttle pedal. This lightly touching the throttle pedal when stationary in gear is probably a huge cause of clutch wear as the system will start to partially engage the clutch expecting you to be moving off.
As already said manouvering on slopes at low speed is a real killer. Loads of clutch slip. Try to avoid if at all possible. Cannot avoid this if you live on a slope but bear it in mind when you park somewhere or in a que with a slope involved. I never use the auto function. Always drive in manual mode even when in town or traffic jams. Auto modes have a lot of gear shifts (to help the economy figures) and at load speed each shift will have clutch slip to smooth out the shift quality. Better to stay in 1st or 2nd at low speeds rather than the auto function keep changing all the way up to 4th and back down again. You would probably not do that driving a manual so avoid doing it in an e gear. As I keep saying, everything you do, ask yourself would you do that in a manual? If the answer is no try and avoid doing that in an e gear. People say there is no envolvement in semi automatics but to try and drive them well and smoothly does take a lot of driver input with the throttle pedal control (same as a manual).
Hope this helps.
As other listers have said avoid full throttle starts as the clutch will slip until it speed matches. On up shifts the throttle pedal lift it is not a full lift. It is really a very slight curling of the toes. You know when you get it right as the shift will be really smooth. I do not always bother apart from when in town at low speed so I do not think it has a huge effect when getting a move on (quick shifts mean quick clutch engagements with minimised slip time).
I always put into neutral at lights or when stopped. You do not need to do this as the system will fully disengage the clutch but it stops the system partially engaging the clutch if you have your foot lightly touching the throttle pedal. This lightly touching the throttle pedal when stationary in gear is probably a huge cause of clutch wear as the system will start to partially engage the clutch expecting you to be moving off.
As already said manouvering on slopes at low speed is a real killer. Loads of clutch slip. Try to avoid if at all possible. Cannot avoid this if you live on a slope but bear it in mind when you park somewhere or in a que with a slope involved. I never use the auto function. Always drive in manual mode even when in town or traffic jams. Auto modes have a lot of gear shifts (to help the economy figures) and at load speed each shift will have clutch slip to smooth out the shift quality. Better to stay in 1st or 2nd at low speeds rather than the auto function keep changing all the way up to 4th and back down again. You would probably not do that driving a manual so avoid doing it in an e gear. As I keep saying, everything you do, ask yourself would you do that in a manual? If the answer is no try and avoid doing that in an e gear. People say there is no envolvement in semi automatics but to try and drive them well and smoothly does take a lot of driver input with the throttle pedal control (same as a manual).
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input.Maybe i`ll leave my car parked out on the road if i think i`m going out again,it`s not much of a slope,but you can feel the clutch is working hard, which then seems to make me want to get on with it asap.
Lifting on upshift,yeah when i first got the car kinda did around a inch of throttle movement,as above i have now realised i do the toe curl thing.
I love manuals,for me Egear is just a manual box but with a super quick change,i also like both hands on the wheel
V10 BAT said:
Out at the weekend,stop at some lights ,put it in neutral yeah yeah foot on the brake pedal,
lights go amber,tap lever..................................................................
nothing ,check foot is actualy on b/pedal yep tap lever again nope nothing,panic take foot off
then back on b/pedal tap lever ah 1st gear there it is.Dodgy brake light switch ??
I've had this a few times. Is it a problem or is it just the e-gear being a bit stupid? lights go amber,tap lever..................................................................
nothing ,check foot is actualy on b/pedal yep tap lever again nope nothing,panic take foot off
then back on b/pedal tap lever ah 1st gear there it is.Dodgy brake light switch ??
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