What are some non-obvious issues you have with your EV?
Discussion
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
doesthiswork said:
I've had rapid chargers just stop charging while I was off doing some shopping and expecting to come back to a charged car but that's just the flakey network.
I noticed the Ionity fastchargers can be cancelled on the screen without requiring confirmation with the RFID tag or app I started the session with. Hope that doesn't become a new sport...My personal caveat on the I3 is the regen behaviour possibly unsettling the car in the snow when you panick lift. The regen is quite aggressive and the only way to avoid too much sudden braking on the rear axle is meticulous pedal movement or putting it in neutral.
If slip happens it will cut down the regen entirely, which can be odd as you suddenly lose your deceleration (often happens when going over bumps/ridges). But I'm not sure if the car becomes unsettled by a regen induced slip in snow if it will recover properly. I'd rather have some more control and turn off regen entirely on ice/snow.
Reminds me to try some real skidding at the next opportunity, but so far had the car for 5 years and haven't had any serious snow yet.
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
boombang said:
foggy said:
Good luck if it gets damaged! The repair industry is challenged managing more complex EV damage, parts availability can be limited and there are some novel processes and special tools for recommissioning batteries and cooling systems etc.
Is that your experience with your EV?My other gripe is why do the majority of EV's have to be SUV shaped and uninspiring? I'd love an EV hot hatch, say fiesta or golf/leon sized.
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
You seem to be asking why put it through the company as opposed to personal, then go on to explain why - because it's a lot cheaper.
TheDeuce said:
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
You seem to be asking why put it through the company as opposed to personal, then go on to explain why - because it's a lot cheaper.
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
You seem to be asking why put it through the company as opposed to personal, then go on to explain why - because it's a lot cheaper.
Turtle Shed said:
Yes well that's what I do as well, but I still think the range display could be more intelligent.
Agreed. And I’d rather have a raw KWh capacity reading that a % of battery. To be fair, the range calc in the petrol car bases the estimate on the last ~20mins of usage. I suspect it’s more obvious in the leaf because one is more aware of it as the range is short.
TheDeuce said:
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
Diderot said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
TheDeuce said:
ashenfie said:
Diderot said:
ashenfie said:
The elephant in the room is cost of purchase. Nearly all the posting by ev users avoid factoring in the cost of purchase in favour of efficiency comparisons. The calculation for run a car has not changed in the last 100year. Simply getting electricity prices vary hugely depending on source and make it more complex.
I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
Mine’s leased through my Ltd company. I have always purchase a car that’s less 20k and 3 years old. I recently purchased a Mini Cooper and avoided the ev simply on cost of purchase grounds.
And no road tax. And all the other bills are through the company so pre tax too.
In a nutshell: BIK.
You seem to be asking why put it through the company as opposed to personal, then go on to explain why - because it's a lot cheaper.
mickeyredeyes said:
I am so going to keep repeating this until the Daily Fail picks it up. :-)
You could also add that as, now, battery degradation doesn't appear to be such a massive issue as the DM's 'experts' told us it would be, the next big issue is the ever increasing weight of EVs due to all the ferrous metal picked up by the motor. In the 15 year lifetime the average EV will go from 1750kg to 3545kg just down to all the screws, nails, bean tins, Reynolds 531 framed bicycles, and manhole covers that will be attached to the motors.
J__Wood said:
mickeyredeyes said:
I am so going to keep repeating this until the Daily Fail picks it up. :-)
You could also add that as, now, battery degradation doesn't appear to be such a massive issue as the DM's 'experts' told us it would be, the next big issue is the ever increasing weight of EVs due to all the ferrous metal picked up by the motor. In the 15 year lifetime the average EV will go from 1750kg to 3545kg just down to all the screws, nails, bean tins, Reynolds 531 framed bicycles, and manhole covers that will be attached to the motors.
And something about the NHS.
J__Wood said:
You could also add that as, now, battery degradation doesn't appear to be such a massive issue as the DM's 'experts' told us it would be, the next big issue is the ever increasing weight of EVs due to all the ferrous metal picked up by the motor.
In the 15 year lifetime the average EV will go from 1750kg to 3545kg just down to all the screws, nails, bean tins, Reynolds 531 framed bicycles, and manhole covers that will be attached to the motors.
I WAS UNABLE TO BOARD A FERRY AS THE MAGNETS HAD PICKED UP SO MANY HEAVY METAL!In the 15 year lifetime the average EV will go from 1750kg to 3545kg just down to all the screws, nails, bean tins, Reynolds 531 framed bicycles, and manhole covers that will be attached to the motors.
HelldogBE said:
I noticed the Ionity fastchargers can be cancelled on the screen without requiring confirmation with the RFID tag or app I started the session with. Hope that doesn't become a new sport...
My personal caveat on the I3 is the regen behaviour possibly unsettling the car in the snow when you panick lift. The regen is quite aggressive and the only way to avoid too much sudden braking on the rear axle is meticulous pedal movement or putting it in neutral.
If slip happens it will cut down the regen entirely, which can be odd as you suddenly lose your deceleration (often happens when going over bumps/ridges). But I'm not sure if the car becomes unsettled by a regen induced slip in snow if it will recover properly. I'd rather have some more control and turn off regen entirely on ice/snow.
Reminds me to try some real skidding at the next opportunity, but so far had the car for 5 years and haven't had any serious snow yet.
But the regen is fully (and quite easily) controlled by your right foot.....My personal caveat on the I3 is the regen behaviour possibly unsettling the car in the snow when you panick lift. The regen is quite aggressive and the only way to avoid too much sudden braking on the rear axle is meticulous pedal movement or putting it in neutral.
If slip happens it will cut down the regen entirely, which can be odd as you suddenly lose your deceleration (often happens when going over bumps/ridges). But I'm not sure if the car becomes unsettled by a regen induced slip in snow if it will recover properly. I'd rather have some more control and turn off regen entirely on ice/snow.
Reminds me to try some real skidding at the next opportunity, but so far had the car for 5 years and haven't had any serious snow yet.
Discombobulate said:
HelldogBE said:
I noticed the Ionity fastchargers can be cancelled on the screen without requiring confirmation with the RFID tag or app I started the session with. Hope that doesn't become a new sport...
My personal caveat on the I3 is the regen behaviour possibly unsettling the car in the snow when you panick lift. The regen is quite aggressive and the only way to avoid too much sudden braking on the rear axle is meticulous pedal movement or putting it in neutral.
If slip happens it will cut down the regen entirely, which can be odd as you suddenly lose your deceleration (often happens when going over bumps/ridges). But I'm not sure if the car becomes unsettled by a regen induced slip in snow if it will recover properly. I'd rather have some more control and turn off regen entirely on ice/snow.
Reminds me to try some real skidding at the next opportunity, but so far had the car for 5 years and haven't had any serious snow yet.
But the regen is fully (and quite easily) controlled by your right foot.....My personal caveat on the I3 is the regen behaviour possibly unsettling the car in the snow when you panick lift. The regen is quite aggressive and the only way to avoid too much sudden braking on the rear axle is meticulous pedal movement or putting it in neutral.
If slip happens it will cut down the regen entirely, which can be odd as you suddenly lose your deceleration (often happens when going over bumps/ridges). But I'm not sure if the car becomes unsettled by a regen induced slip in snow if it will recover properly. I'd rather have some more control and turn off regen entirely on ice/snow.
Reminds me to try some real skidding at the next opportunity, but so far had the car for 5 years and haven't had any serious snow yet.
Am I the only one that started to play with left foot braking when auto boxes became commonplace...?
DemiseoftheICE.com said:
so called said:
I've had an i3Rex followed by an i3S.
Loved them both and commuted 100 miles/day, charging every night.
Changed to an Ioniq 5 and came to charge it for the first time and 'CLICK'. RCD Breaker tripped.
It turned out that I had an earth leakage problem in my house.
The i3 cars have a natural earth leakage value but due to their carbon fibre body, its a lower value than the natural value of the steel Ioniq 5.
End result Ioniq + house = enough to trip the RCD = bugger.
Oef... how did you end up fixing that?Loved them both and commuted 100 miles/day, charging every night.
Changed to an Ioniq 5 and came to charge it for the first time and 'CLICK'. RCD Breaker tripped.
It turned out that I had an earth leakage problem in my house.
The i3 cars have a natural earth leakage value but due to their carbon fibre body, its a lower value than the natural value of the steel Ioniq 5.
End result Ioniq + house = enough to trip the RCD = bugger.
First job was to separate and put the car chargeron its own RCD. That fixed the car charging issue.
I then put the garage/garden on its own RCD.
House was still tripping
but finally identified when my daughter put a load in the blinking tumble dryer. 
doesthiswork said:
Took me while but I finally thought of a genuine one - regen braking doesn't work on my car if the battery is at 100%.
So I get used to driving everywhere with regen set to '3' which effectively allows one pedal driving, but if the car is fully charged, I still automatically select level '3' when I set off, head for a junction, lift off and instead of slowing rapidly I unexpectedly coast at full speed towards it instead.
I mean, it makes sense that regen can't charge a full battery, but I still expected the braking effect to be there.
Yep. But what is particularly bad is the i3 that cuts regen when traction control kicks in. So if you’re on a spirited drive and you’re adjusting your braking to take regen into account and you hit a bump just before the corner which the traction control over reacts to then the car suddenly freewheels. I nearly crashed several times because of this. It’s a very very very annoying trait of that car. So I get used to driving everywhere with regen set to '3' which effectively allows one pedal driving, but if the car is fully charged, I still automatically select level '3' when I set off, head for a junction, lift off and instead of slowing rapidly I unexpectedly coast at full speed towards it instead.
I mean, it makes sense that regen can't charge a full battery, but I still expected the braking effect to be there.
TheDeuce said:
Or left foot if you're a pro
Am I the only one that started to play with left foot braking when auto boxes became commonplace...?
You are not alone TheDeuce. I got accustomed to left footed braking over a year or so in the auto cars we’ve had. Now with a MINI Electric I am getting to be almost entirely one footed.Am I the only one that started to play with left foot braking when auto boxes became commonplace...?
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