anyone running a colder stat?
Discussion
ludoZ3 said:
andygtt said:
Its a mystery to me what the MBE was/is doing... but I know for a fact that my water temp creaps up on track.
Not a mystery Andy, Jeff on nobleforums has shown the table, response on the gauge via the ECU is not linear with the actual temperature, it is "dampened" (it's also the case on your M5 for exemple) so it appears to be stable when you're driving around. 
But my MBE ecu was changed to make the guage show the actual temps... but despite this Im still not convinced it actually did/does.
My Motec/ stack dash now display a real water temp so I know exactly what it is as well as the Motec actually records it and backs out power if it goes too high.
My M5 doesnt even display water temp, just oil lol
Well I disagree with you as I've done this on my TVR and the digital gauge shows no drop in running temp and it takes longer to heat up, I guess every car is different though.
Andy thats b
ks about 'all the big HP boys' as my car has 600 and I go out onto track at spa, for 30 minutes according to my gopro, several times on a track day and I've never had a problem, the only time I've had water spitting out was at the rolling road because my old filler cap spring failed, stronger pressure cap fitted and it's been fine. Adrian do you have a stronger pressure cap?
It makes me laugh though, no matter what the discussion on here it always seems to end with "it's not upto the job so here's what we need to do".
Andy thats b
ks about 'all the big HP boys' as my car has 600 and I go out onto track at spa, for 30 minutes according to my gopro, several times on a track day and I've never had a problem, the only time I've had water spitting out was at the rolling road because my old filler cap spring failed, stronger pressure cap fitted and it's been fine. Adrian do you have a stronger pressure cap?It makes me laugh though, no matter what the discussion on here it always seems to end with "it's not upto the job so here's what we need to do".
Edited by Hollowpockets on Tuesday 9th October 14:33
yours may have survived on track and you may never have had a single engine issue, however I have and it was heat related.
I know exactly what mine runs, it runs too hot and as the standard stat starts to open at 88c it simply a fact that no noble can run at the temp I want it too to have in order to have a proper safety margin IMO.
Seeing as I have the pro alloy rad, a front mounted oil cooler and a single turbo that is oil rather than water cooled I should be capable of running lower water temps than anyone else especially at a megre 0.6bar.
Of cause it could all be just an issue on my car, seeing as to how different it is and how I run right to 8000rpm and 1.7bar thats a distinct possibility... however at the last track day I still had the issue and I ran at 0.6bar and didnt go above 7500rpm so I dont think these are factors.
Regardless I want mine to run in the 80's on track, at the very least I need a new stat to allow that.... once fitted I will know if the rest of the cooling system can actually shed enough heat to get to my target, if i cant then it will have to be beefed up.
and besides since when has anything on the noble been 'good enough' for me
I know exactly what mine runs, it runs too hot and as the standard stat starts to open at 88c it simply a fact that no noble can run at the temp I want it too to have in order to have a proper safety margin IMO.
Seeing as I have the pro alloy rad, a front mounted oil cooler and a single turbo that is oil rather than water cooled I should be capable of running lower water temps than anyone else especially at a megre 0.6bar.
Of cause it could all be just an issue on my car, seeing as to how different it is and how I run right to 8000rpm and 1.7bar thats a distinct possibility... however at the last track day I still had the issue and I ran at 0.6bar and didnt go above 7500rpm so I dont think these are factors.
Regardless I want mine to run in the 80's on track, at the very least I need a new stat to allow that.... once fitted I will know if the rest of the cooling system can actually shed enough heat to get to my target, if i cant then it will have to be beefed up.
and besides since when has anything on the noble been 'good enough' for me
I have been working specifically on the cooling system for some time,it is very efficient when running properly, nobody else at my power was running as cool in those conditions.
I'm not running big power like some on here but i believe with the environment i was running it should even it out a little.
1. I put a separate Temp sender directly after the head which was wired directly into a new gauge on the dash, this shows accurately what the temps are at all times so that they can be monitored, this was tested in many ways as accurate, fans and original temp sender are still wired into ECU.
2. Coolant, make a 70water-30coolant mix, use a high quality coolant, water transfers heat better than coolant, better for summer time running.
3. Use a high PSI coolant cap, the more pressure the better and make sure there are no pressure leaks, the system can take up to 24 psi long term without problems.
4. Use a high efficiency PA rad, seal to clam with foam strips, if air is allowed to go round it will.
5. Use a big mesh on the front grill...If you need a bit extra then remove the number plate for track but this comes at the expense of drag, if everything else is done properly it shouldnt be required.
6. For race cars this will already be done, but putting a oil/air cooler, means the coolant is not having to also cool the oil.
7. Make sure the exhaust gases get out as fast as possible, eliminate as many heat sources as possible in the engine bay, heat wrapping exhaust,manifolds, turbo jackets etc...
8. Get good airflow through engine bay and tunnel, air cooling helps.
I'm not running big power like some on here but i believe with the environment i was running it should even it out a little.
1. I put a separate Temp sender directly after the head which was wired directly into a new gauge on the dash, this shows accurately what the temps are at all times so that they can be monitored, this was tested in many ways as accurate, fans and original temp sender are still wired into ECU.
2. Coolant, make a 70water-30coolant mix, use a high quality coolant, water transfers heat better than coolant, better for summer time running.
3. Use a high PSI coolant cap, the more pressure the better and make sure there are no pressure leaks, the system can take up to 24 psi long term without problems.
4. Use a high efficiency PA rad, seal to clam with foam strips, if air is allowed to go round it will.
5. Use a big mesh on the front grill...If you need a bit extra then remove the number plate for track but this comes at the expense of drag, if everything else is done properly it shouldnt be required.
6. For race cars this will already be done, but putting a oil/air cooler, means the coolant is not having to also cool the oil.
7. Make sure the exhaust gases get out as fast as possible, eliminate as many heat sources as possible in the engine bay, heat wrapping exhaust,manifolds, turbo jackets etc...
8. Get good airflow through engine bay and tunnel, air cooling helps.
Edited by R0162 on Wednesday 10th October 23:16
Should imagine it would be, all Duratecs seem to be the same, opens at 87c. Wouldnt mind one that opens at 82c. My car runs fine at speed but at idle it often creeps over 100c, low speed fan kicks in at 103c and does drop back quickly. My car is mapped as far as it will go so I want to see if i can get the temp dropped down a bit more. Could just be age and the stat getting lazy.
Gadgeroonie said:
i need to take one in to the supplier to find a cooler one that matches
need to know if the one in ours is the same as an st220
thought I answered that above?need to know if the one in ours is the same as an st220
I have a new ST220, noble and 2nd had Jag V6 stat sitting on the shelf and they are all the same and open at 88c.
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