Floor Pan Replacement
Discussion
yes i had this same problem on my previous GTO3, we resealed the floor pan and could not work out where water was still getting in and we discoverted it was from the rear bulkhead.
When you say the bulkhead is one piece all the way down to the footwells,, have you got a picture, it was not like this on mine, the vertical sill plates were separate.
When you say the bulkhead is one piece all the way down to the footwells,, have you got a picture, it was not like this on mine, the vertical sill plates were separate.
R0162 said:
yes i had this same problem on my previous GTO3, we resealed the floor pan and could not work out where water was still getting in and we discoverted it was from the rear bulkhead.
When you say the bulkhead is one piece all the way down to the footwells,, have you got a picture, it was not like this on mine, the vertical sill plates were separate.
It is off being painted at the moment, I will take a pic and post it when I get it back.When you say the bulkhead is one piece all the way down to the footwells,, have you got a picture, it was not like this on mine, the vertical sill plates were separate.
Chapppers said:
Bump.
So what was the consensus on Neoprene Tape? Is it a good or bad idea for the chassis?
I'm going to tackle this job in a few weeks, just getting the stuff together. How many bolts do I need? What kind of length of tape, or failing that what kind of sealant is best?
Wish me luck!
I'd like to think living in such a wet part of the country and being someone who drives the car regardless of rain or shine at the weekends, it gives a true representation of how good the seal must be on my floor with the neoprene tape. Not all agree on it but some facts for you on the new floor so far...So what was the consensus on Neoprene Tape? Is it a good or bad idea for the chassis?
I'm going to tackle this job in a few weeks, just getting the stuff together. How many bolts do I need? What kind of length of tape, or failing that what kind of sealant is best?
Wish me luck!
Miles covered since floor replacement in August - 3000
Miles spent driving through heavy rain and standing water - 1500
Trackdays done in the wet - 2
Times checked for leaks/damp patches - about 20 after any drives in the wet
Leaks/Damp patches found - 0
Number of stainless self tappers to work loose or break out - 0
You will need about 700 Self tappers as you will kill a few.
As there are about 3 widths of bar on the chassis i measured about bought 2 x 15mm, 2x 20mm and 2x 40mm rolls by 10m (I think) tape to suit which will do the job and leave some spare in case of cock ups.
Once the floor was mounted again I did also run a bead of B+Q waterproof silicone around the inside edge of where the bars meet the floor before putting the carpets down. So even if there are leaks past the tape at other sections, the carpets won't get wet.
I also had both sides of the floor powder coated black before fitting to put another barrier between the aluminium and the chassis.
It will be a test of your patience but well worth it. good luck
Graham
Yeah i couldn't believe it either, i screwed them all in by hand and had blisters, using the drill with a hex bit just broke the heads off the self tappers if too much torque was put through them, a nightmare to drill out!
I bought 500 to start with but I needed some more then I ended up using the spares to replace some of the rivets/screws under the front/rear clams around the arches, looks much better.
I bought 500 to start with but I needed some more then I ended up using the spares to replace some of the rivets/screws under the front/rear clams around the arches, looks much better.
So I took all my panels to the best powdercoater in the area today and he said "wouldn't want to touch those mate, they'd bend like a coke can if we tried to blast them"
strangeness. The engine pan was pretty damn thin, but the rest of them seem OK. Any ideas on what to do now? Daddysumo you obviously had yours blasted didn't you?
He suggested I have them remade in galvanised steel but not sure about that either.
strangeness. The engine pan was pretty damn thin, but the rest of them seem OK. Any ideas on what to do now? Daddysumo you obviously had yours blasted didn't you?He suggested I have them remade in galvanised steel but not sure about that either.
We have a water blasting facility and I used a water and fine grade sand mix which gave a nice smooth finish, a normal dry grit/sand blaster could be too harsh and puncture the sheeting.
Steel would weigh too much, go to another blaster then take it back for powder coating.
If you struggle I guess you could always courier them to me and for a small fee I'll get them blasted, could even get them coated as well then returned.
Graham
Steel would weigh too much, go to another blaster then take it back for powder coating.
If you struggle I guess you could always courier them to me and for a small fee I'll get them blasted, could even get them coated as well then returned.
Graham
Chapppers said:
So I took all my panels to the best powdercoater in the area today and he said "wouldn't want to touch those mate, they'd bend like a coke can if we tried to blast them"
strangeness. The engine pan was pretty damn thin, but the rest of them seem OK. Any ideas on what to do now? Daddysumo you obviously had yours blasted didn't you?
He suggested I have them remade in galvanised steel but not sure about that either.
I had to clean mine up myself before powdercoating. just use thiners. scouring pads and elbo grease. and poss wire brush on a drill in areas where it has become oxidized mainly round fixing points. strangeness. The engine pan was pretty damn thin, but the rest of them seem OK. Any ideas on what to do now? Daddysumo you obviously had yours blasted didn't you?He suggested I have them remade in galvanised steel but not sure about that either.
JulesBliss said:
I was under the impression that powdercoating would mess with the shape of the Ally and thickness, which would make fitment a b
h!
Anodizing would be a better option?
No, it's blasting them prior to powder coating that could warp the sheets or make them too thin.h!Anodizing would be a better option?
Anodising would probably cost far more.
Chapppers said:
Yes, I was going to ask the carpet question. I have another question though; are 4.8mm screws not a bit big for the holes that exist from the rivets?
There's a bit about carpets here. Lots of choice of carpet from eBay including the underfelt (automotive).As for screws - probably depends on size of drill bit used to remove the rivets. I used a 4mm cobalt bit and therefre 4.8mm steel fastners were perfect to grip the floor back to the chassis.
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