New project car, kit car newb

New project car, kit car newb

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daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Monday 25th May 2020
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The brake balancer is a bit of a dogs dinner and something seems to have collapsed in the girling cylinder for the fronts so need to take a look at that too

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Monday 8th June 2020
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Floor came off, seems to be aluminium as I weighed and it was about 5Kgs ?
No rot which I was worried about with some rust indication but its nothing really.
Now I will have to seal it back on again

Have to get the starting sorted just doesn't want to reliably start but I got a spark tester and seem to be getting spark all round.

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Saturday 20th June 2020
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Another small update, shaved a few cm off each pipe coming from headers before the 2 into 1
Just masked them up and then used an angle grinder on each one, came out neater than I expected to be honest.
A bit too close to the suspension but its at its bottomed out position so can be raised ?
- Idea being to allow more room for fitting the tail bodywork otherwise will be sitting "on" the pipes seems to be happening on test fit.
The exhaust can itself is a horrible stainless thing weighing a ton, many car drivers might not fret, but I'm used to far better stuff on bikes ( titanium,carbon) so my plan eventually is to bin that for something far far lighter ?

Removed handbrake cables from rear pistons ( appear to be from old Mondeo?) and thinking to replace them with the mse gems new calipers,
maybe rotating the AP/unknown quantity ones from the front to the back
I don't know how well they work currently, well they are clamping but not sure how well when used in anger and may need refurb.

I am getting the remaining major 2 GRP side body pieces made up from URS in Norfolk ( hard to find used ) and will then be test fitting. the lower rear panels should fit to the engine cover but will appear to need some trimming as the rear is highly modified for the bike engine, but that will have a more "close to original" bodywork that people will recognise more easily as original FF shape.





Edited by daytonavrs on Saturday 20th June 15:40

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Saturday 20th June 2020
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Gonna be about £700 for the 2 side panels so if anyone knows any used parts let me know pronto before I order biggrin

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Wednesday 22nd July 2020
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Another blog entry: Now bought the 2x front underside to cockpit side panels both sides.

Done a quick spray can job using some red can I had lying about ( that doesn't match my car I bought it for), just to cover the yellow engine cover and nose - v quickly and badly but just for effect.
Just lining the sides up for effect but will need to have the wishbones removed to fit proper so just storing them for now.

Now have almost complete set of bodywork to make closer to RF86, only thing massively missing is radiator cowl but needs custom anyway - std FF single radiator would be too small for a CBR1100xx ?
Maybe get a fibreglass guy to make something up once closer to complete, or bend some sheet.

May be looking for an engineering place ( or individual/mobile engineer?) to help me complete as its starting to get a bit more out of lockdown any suggestions? Particularly around the Midlands/East?
AB seem pretty busy.

Have money for the completion, and just need to get it done now, probably too late to do anything this year.

- need to remount the floor, I didn't really need to take it off which was a bit silly, but thought I saw signs of rust, to be honest it really really wasn't worth the effort.
- radiator needs better mounting/welding to frame or something, didn't like the old fabrication of metalwork that was there before. Might need a new rad wouldn't hurt also.
- finalising what to do with the electrics
- carbs/ starting/ running right
- battery remounting to the front of the car
- mating up, fastening and trimming the body where necessary
- Tyres? A better fitting set of wheels as I have some white 13x5.5s to replace the 15"s. ACB10s or similar 175's to what sevens run etc?
- Windscreen






The ebay ad disappeared now mentioned in first post, so just a recall of how I got it,
It was posted on https://twitter.com/scarbstech/status/121316404490...


Edited by daytonavrs on Wednesday 22 July 11:55

AW111

9,455 posts

132 months

Wednesday 22nd July 2020
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Big improvement.

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Thursday 23rd July 2020
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Thanks man, slow but continuous improvement is my motto biggrin

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Sunday 16th August 2020
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Some more positive progress.

Got some assistance from a fabricator who came down, running much better with some tweaks !
Actually stays running and starts immediately off the button!
James also helped mocked up some ply for the dash and cleared the wiring up a bit too and wired in a FIA type switch and started button.
This means the crazy "remounted handlebar L/R controls " mounted directly to dash biggrin solution has hence been ditched for a much neater and assumed normal solution, lol.
I need to get an automotive choke solution to replace the bike choke cable to handlebar controls tho

So now all the road junk has been removed, except brake light, just seemed to make sense to keep that as it didn't really mean much to keep that.
Also sorting some carbon fibre for dash in exchange for the plywood.......just ordered the wrong thickness so returning that.

I've done some minor bits myself polishing up the floor ready to put back on, and polishing the arms,
rubber paint was coming off them anyway, will look much better with them all polished ?

Also got bonnet catches for the bodywork so hoping to try and get some more bodywork fitting.
Planning to change out the oil and filter, already have a Honda filter supplied with the car.
Refill the brakes with clean fluid, also going to swap out some bodged master caps for new ones,
they seem to have been bodged to fit road legal brake fluid sensors electrics however not really very airtight.

Really needs some review of what is going on with the cooling, existing rad seems a bit old and may have weak areas. And its not properly mounted anyway. Hoping to maybe stick with the standard VD design for cooling in terms of the sidepods and fitment as it makes more sense aesthetically,
but I don't know what is or isn't possible here at the moment...?



My first start attempt (without choke) after it had been fettled by James: https://filebin.net/lcrrxy70s6eyx8vc/VID_20200814_...


Edited by daytonavrs on Sunday 16th August 22:36

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Sunday 16th August 2020
quotequote all
ToDo list is getting a little smaller, perhaps in this sort of priority:

-cutting dash once I get the CF
-remounting the floor
-oil/filter change
-brake fluid flush and bleed and making sure the brakes stop the car!
-need to get some carb socks, it won't fit any existing filters now its under the tail.
James mentioned also about getting a side air scoop so will be looking about for one of those, to keep engine bay temps lower?
Not sure exactly what to get yet but quickly looking ones like
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Scoop-TYPE-C-BLACK-...redfacekMAAOSw24hdclU2
http://www.medinasport.co.uk/MSSpares/index.php?ro... etc
-more fettling with engine / balancing carbs?
-cooling direction?
-sorting bodywork fitting completion including side pods for rad?
-Tyres for running Weller 13" e.g. ACB9 or 10 etc.
- some heat protection for parts near to exhaust and other hot parts/ general finishing off /
- Making sure everything is nice solid and secure and safe ?
- testing running the car when possible !!

Santa pod is not really the most appropriate but at cheapness for entry and no specific requirement for the car to work may be easier testbed for it.

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Tuesday 1st September 2020
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1/12 of my job list done

pretty much done remounting the stainless steel sheet floor with sika and 4.8mm rivets
Probably wasn't worth all the effort but I was a little bothered by signs of rust on the floor.



Got an amazing rivet tool for princely sum of about £4 odd from toolden, something of a bargain / very limited opportunity.
- Far easier to finish the job than the "wilco heavy duty riveter" I started with


daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Saturday 5th September 2020
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+1 Blog addition
Always good to feel like you are achieving something, no matter how small ( particularly now the year is running down before I end up putting this away for good).

For today - Test fitted the side pieces to get an even better feel for the "correct" original bodywork. Kinda coming together slowly.
( routing brake lines and passing through the wishbones )

Still need all the bodywork properly mounting, I have some catches to connect the nose to side and the tail for instance, need to work on the positioning lugs as they don't seem to be match each fairing so need some work.

Clear how the tail shows the altered rear subframe for engine is that much shorted than original ( and need modification to suite)

Feel like I'm making a meal of it compared to progress some might make but I'm no youngster.

2mm Carbon fibre on order from easy composites for dash also...





Edited by daytonavrs on Saturday 5th September 19:22

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Monday 3rd May 2021
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Work to date - slowly getting there:

Incorrect wheels (revolution 15" wheels) sold now 13" wellers now and tyres.

Recently acquired nicely fitting grp seat specific to FF - just £6 from ebay collected!

On some run out another purchase, a rad panel and a front section like new in the exact gel coat red to match the side panels !

(I'd done a quick spray on the old panels they looked ok previous but not a great red match despite what any past pics look like so for £75 for both this seemed worthwhile and part of same North trip for collecting parts when I got seat).

Been drilling and mounting panels to fit and have some protex clips to secure panels together.

Got mini S calipers and LD19 pads to fit, waiting on a few bits to fit, 3/16" caliper bolts and split pins that hold the pads.
- old calipers on the rear were junk wont fit under 13s anyway.

Slowly slowly catchy monkey


daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Saturday 8th May 2021
quotequote all
Adding blog of further work / build anomolies:

Strangely van deimen lowers have 4 brake caliper mountings, the front ones were in use with horrifically incorrect calipers

which I refitted today with correct size ones


( as would not fit under correct size 13" weller wheels it had 15" revolution alloys with huge rear tyres before)


The front caliper mounting threads were helicoiled and were garbage,
on removing the calipers the helicoils were coming out with them in pieces.

Fortunately VD lowers seem to come with 2 pairs and it looked on face value the original threads on REAR side pair of threads was ok....Managed to fit the mini caliper on left side



Right side was a bit odd, despite having threads I found this wouldn't fit the same 1/8" BSP bolts that I fit on the other side! ( Little smaller)
After a rummage I found I had 6mm allen headed metric (fine thread I think?) bolts that would screw in so temporarily fit calipers with those for now until I can rationalise this later !!!

Also fitted some Protex clips to bodywork using rivets to clip some of the bodywork together securely.
The side panels and front section are like new with red dye in the fibreglass, I've sent off samples to get an exact match so the cheaper used panels I got ( like tail ) repairing and colour matching will be another step



daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Monday 10th May 2021
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Now fitted front protex clips so I can hang the nose


daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Thursday 20th May 2021
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More bits on order

inline filler neck on order and alloy rad -
to replace the crap old std bike rad with built in cap, only £99, will have to make up a rad cover for the left side to suite bodywork ( or use some existing used parts I was given but for the right side and turn into left with some fibre resin)
its a bit taller than the original but ok.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363235328764
Deciding to keep this on the left, and maybe keep 2nd rad slot on right for oil cooler moved forward.

Also got a front wing so it will have front and rear wings also, apparently mono style.


dhutch

14,198 posts

196 months

Thursday 20th May 2021
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daytonavrs said:
Work to date - slowly getting there:......


Slowly slowly catchy monkey
Looking good,

Furyblade_Lee

4,107 posts

223 months

Thursday 20th May 2021
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mikeveal said:
I'll spell out what others are alluding to, as we shouldn't assume you know.

Firebirds were a popular choice in the early days of BEC. However, it was soon discovered that they suffer from oil starvation in corners.

In a bike, when you corner, centripetal force keeps the oil level with the bottom of the sump, the bike leans in the corner and the oil matches that lean angle.
In a car the sump stays flat and when you corner the oil climbs the side of the pan, leaving the pickup dry.

In the case of the firebird, this results in the #3 (IIRC) piston exiting the engine through the side of the crankcase.
Not a problem if driven gently, but long corners (was is lefts only?) driven enthusiastically were engine killers.

Sump baffles were tried, but I don't think were effective. It was a long time ago, so I could have that wrong. From memory the only effective solution was to dry sump. Sadly this made the Firebird a very costly engine for it's power output. It simply did not make sense financially to use one.

Apologies for going over old ground if you already knew all that.
There was never a problem with the "early" 893 and 919 Fireblades, they never needed a dry sump, or even a baffle. They were indestructible in period.

daytonavrs

Original Poster:

774 posts

83 months

Tuesday 1st June 2021
quotequote all





Appaling lack of progress from me but I got a front wing to suite the rears and cut side plates which I finally drilled today.
Been having chest and other probs don't like going out in the heat so much so left to do in early evening.
Some progress better than no progress, still lots of mechanicals to be sorted yet

The front wing has a bar which I'm going to have to cut in half then have a tube or something running through the nose.
Just mocked where it may be for photos
Then need extra support for it coming from the chassis once its inside the nose.

The rear one also going to need better supporting than what the guy currently envisaged so will probably rivet a base plate that has much more rivets to the bottom aerofoil. Have plenty 2mm allow plate spare from the side supports.
Need to find a sheet bender somewhere to angle the ends of the endplates to add rigidity also but will sort that later I guess.

FNG

4,157 posts

223 months

Wednesday 2nd June 2021
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Furyblade_Lee said:
mikeveal said:
I'll spell out what others are alluding to, as we shouldn't assume you know.

Firebirds were a popular choice in the early days of BEC. However, it was soon discovered that they suffer from oil starvation in corners.

In a bike, when you corner, centripetal force keeps the oil level with the bottom of the sump, the bike leans in the corner and the oil matches that lean angle.
In a car the sump stays flat and when you corner the oil climbs the side of the pan, leaving the pickup dry.

In the case of the firebird, this results in the #3 (IIRC) piston exiting the engine through the side of the crankcase.
Not a problem if driven gently, but long corners (was is lefts only?) driven enthusiastically were engine killers.

Sump baffles were tried, but I don't think were effective. It was a long time ago, so I could have that wrong. From memory the only effective solution was to dry sump. Sadly this made the Firebird a very costly engine for it's power output. It simply did not make sense financially to use one.

Apologies for going over old ground if you already knew all that.
There was never a problem with the "early" 893 and 919 Fireblades, they never needed a dry sump, or even a baffle. They were indestructible in period.
I wonder if mikeveal is thinking of the Blackbird engine, which definitely was renowned for oil starvation issues. The Fireblade engine wasn't.

FNG

4,157 posts

223 months

Wednesday 2nd June 2021
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Actually I popped into this thread to say well done OP, some transformation from a pretty ugly car into a proper looking thing.

And also well done for keeping the updates coming despite not many replies. Really good to see the work being done, appreciate the updates.