tipo 184 build diary
Discussion
went today to do the fuel rails but upon arriving to my garage i noticed the door was a bit out of shape
didn’t think much about it until a guy from the rental garage company pulled up as i was opening up the door and he said if anything was missing from my garage
it turns out last night someone broke all the padlocks off 36 garages and tried to get into them .
luckily nothing was taken from mine , i had 4 dewalt tools in there plus all the hand tools
they think they will be back tonight so i went and got some clasps and locks and fitted them and a garage door defender and fitted them
so i sorted that out and had time to drill the fuel rail holders on ,
i’ll get over ther tomorrow to finish the fuel lines and take photos as long as it’s still in the garage !
didn’t think much about it until a guy from the rental garage company pulled up as i was opening up the door and he said if anything was missing from my garage
it turns out last night someone broke all the padlocks off 36 garages and tried to get into them .
luckily nothing was taken from mine , i had 4 dewalt tools in there plus all the hand tools
they think they will be back tonight so i went and got some clasps and locks and fitted them and a garage door defender and fitted them
so i sorted that out and had time to drill the fuel rail holders on ,
i’ll get over ther tomorrow to finish the fuel lines and take photos as long as it’s still in the garage !
2.5 hrs today
garage and car still there today ,so i thought i would finish the fuel part of the build
run the lines from back to front
nice and easy , you only need a longer drill bit to go all the way through the frame
next was fitting the hoses to the tank and pump
so that s the fuel side of things done
next to do was the accelerator cable
you have to cut your old cable off,
keeping all the parts, so the black rubber cup, the lime green fitting
you thread the new cable trough the cable sleeveing refitting the cup etc
once you fit this to the accelerator pedal and clip in the black clip to the closing panel you can run the cable to the throttle body
i found it easier to fit the end stop into the throttle body and then thread the cable through the tiny hole and tighten up the grub screw. then cut off the excess cable
loads of cable to play with
accelerator pedal side
grub screw fitting holding the cable
the only thing i found is that the clips won t fit back on to hold the cable on to the throttle body but i don t think it matters
next was to do the driveshaft closing panel
this would only fit once i took off the gear stick and then started to fit the foot rests
so next to do will be electrics which iam not looking forward to
garage and car still there today ,so i thought i would finish the fuel part of the build
run the lines from back to front
nice and easy , you only need a longer drill bit to go all the way through the frame
next was fitting the hoses to the tank and pump
so that s the fuel side of things done
next to do was the accelerator cable
you have to cut your old cable off,
keeping all the parts, so the black rubber cup, the lime green fitting
you thread the new cable trough the cable sleeveing refitting the cup etc
once you fit this to the accelerator pedal and clip in the black clip to the closing panel you can run the cable to the throttle body
i found it easier to fit the end stop into the throttle body and then thread the cable through the tiny hole and tighten up the grub screw. then cut off the excess cable
loads of cable to play with
accelerator pedal side
grub screw fitting holding the cable
the only thing i found is that the clips won t fit back on to hold the cable on to the throttle body but i don t think it matters
next was to do the driveshaft closing panel
this would only fit once i took off the gear stick and then started to fit the foot rests
so next to do will be electrics which iam not looking forward to
Edited by tricky360 on Friday 13th June 17:05
Can't really be sure from the pictures, but it would pay to check that those line & pipe fixings are at most 300mm apart. There isn't actually a specification, it's a vague "A brake pipe or hose must be adequately clipped or otherwise supported." The 300mm has become a sort of accepted standard...although I do 250mm just to be sure. Same for wiring loom fixings and any pipelines, cables etc. Anything that can move about basically.
Basically, the better it looks, the more detail you have paid attention to, the more likely the examiner will view the build favourably. They have a lot of discretion at the end of the day, so it's worth trying to make a good impression....and, of course, you don't want brakes failing either.
And, of course, I hope you have a copy of this to hand: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/670...
It's a great cure for insomnia, but essential reading for a kit builder.
ETA - saw the kit at Malvern the other week....it's a big old thing isn't it!
Basically, the better it looks, the more detail you have paid attention to, the more likely the examiner will view the build favourably. They have a lot of discretion at the end of the day, so it's worth trying to make a good impression....and, of course, you don't want brakes failing either.
And, of course, I hope you have a copy of this to hand: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/670...
It's a great cure for insomnia, but essential reading for a kit builder.
ETA - saw the kit at Malvern the other week....it's a big old thing isn't it!
basil brush - thanks for the advice on the fuel hose clips , i was using what comes with the kit but for £10 odd i’ll buy some , all advice and tips are welcome
c beams - i measured the other day and iam within 250-280mm ,but what i’ll do is use up the left over pipe clips at the end of the build to tidy up everything
i want to get it done and running and then work on the iva bits and the fine details
c beams - i measured the other day and iam within 250-280mm ,but what i’ll do is use up the left over pipe clips at the end of the build to tidy up everything
i want to get it done and running and then work on the iva bits and the fine details
finally an update !
after going away on holiday , kids off for 6 weeks ,and having far to much work with my job ,i finally went today-to start on the electrics .
this i was not confident with but i have to get on with it
so i thought i would tackle it in small chunks
first was to sort out the old passenger side electrics , the rear lights and associated rear lines to the back
then was to separate the front lights and wires that run to the front
i labelled everything so it makes it easier
best thing to do i found was to take off all the electrical tape and have everything separate so i can trace the wires back to the big white plug
anything that wasn’t needed i cut off and unpicked the pins
so the radio , electric windows, heater all got taken out. i’ll do this system until i got it all in ,this might take awhile
after going away on holiday , kids off for 6 weeks ,and having far to much work with my job ,i finally went today-to start on the electrics .
this i was not confident with but i have to get on with it
so i thought i would tackle it in small chunks
first was to sort out the old passenger side electrics , the rear lights and associated rear lines to the back
then was to separate the front lights and wires that run to the front
i labelled everything so it makes it easier
best thing to do i found was to take off all the electrical tape and have everything separate so i can trace the wires back to the big white plug
anything that wasn’t needed i cut off and unpicked the pins
so the radio , electric windows, heater all got taken out. i’ll do this system until i got it all in ,this might take awhile
Car Nut 1960 said:
Looking good, your making more progress than me.
I'm a bit stuck with the fuel line connections to the fuel rail, especially the return line as I can't see the fuel line exit.
Any photos of this would be appreciated.
i’ll take some this weekend for you, i hope i’ve put mine on correctly I'm a bit stuck with the fuel line connections to the fuel rail, especially the return line as I can't see the fuel line exit.
Any photos of this would be appreciated.
i’ve emailed darren twice to see if he would be willing to finish my car and get it on the road, no reply so far and it’s been a month or so since i did that,
not sure i can finish it without help now .
so finally got a day off and the weather being better to work in , i went to do a few small jobs today , first was to start the mammoth job of cutting out the vents Started with a 8 mm drill bit in the middle of each vent and two 5mm ones on the sides
then cut between them with a thin metal disc on my angle grinder
this is hard to control so i ve ordered a mini grinder and dremel set so i only tackled one set of vents, they need filling and sanding and tidying up
next was to paint the back of the panels in underbody sealer , not sure if this is a good thing to do before paint and vents cutting but i started on it so i finished it
next was to get the battery on to see if i could wire up the fuel pump, this has proved difficult, i had power to the battery light on the dash first of all , i tried to test the wires to the pump and iam not getting any voltage, all the fuses and relays are good with power to them but not to the pump
took battery off for a bit to mess about and re put it back on, then my immobilzer light on the dash was non stop blinking, and no light to the battery now .
looking up on line , if the immobiliser can t read the key then nothing will start ! a new key , ecu and immobiliser is needed
this is the wire for the fuel pump iam not getting anything to . so i ve booked in an auto electrian to come on saturday now to see if he can make head or tail out of the wiring , i just want to get it running so i can send it of to westfield for them to do the painting and commissioning for an iva test
so i got a new starter motor also and fitted that
[
then cut between them with a thin metal disc on my angle grinder
this is hard to control so i ve ordered a mini grinder and dremel set so i only tackled one set of vents, they need filling and sanding and tidying up
next was to paint the back of the panels in underbody sealer , not sure if this is a good thing to do before paint and vents cutting but i started on it so i finished it
next was to get the battery on to see if i could wire up the fuel pump, this has proved difficult, i had power to the battery light on the dash first of all , i tried to test the wires to the pump and iam not getting any voltage, all the fuses and relays are good with power to them but not to the pump
took battery off for a bit to mess about and re put it back on, then my immobilzer light on the dash was non stop blinking, and no light to the battery now .
looking up on line , if the immobiliser can t read the key then nothing will start ! a new key , ecu and immobiliser is needed
Edited by tricky360 on Monday 9th February 13:21
this is the wire for the fuel pump iam not getting anything to . so i ve booked in an auto electrian to come on saturday now to see if he can make head or tail out of the wiring , i just want to get it running so i can send it of to westfield for them to do the painting and commissioning for an iva test
so i got a new starter motor also and fitted that
[
Edited by tricky360 on Monday 9th February 13:23
auto electrican came on saturday and we got the car cranking over to start, he re-done the ground wire from the battery to the gearbox/engine as i had it to the bulkhead , he also connected as many ground points to the chassis, taking off the power coating to get good contact.
i didn t have fuel in it so it wasn t starting and time was running out with him ,
so today i got a fuel can and put petrol in it to see if it would start and no ! it won t,
i took off the fuel lines to see if it s pumping petrol though but it s not , the pump is running but nothing is coming out, i will check if i have the live wire on the correct side of the pump tomorrow
if it s not that then i don t know
electrician can t come again for 4 weeks so i can t wait any longer now , fed up with it
i contacted westfield to see how much it is to finish it for me , which i really didn t want to do , but it might of beaten me .
they charge a £ 500 rate to assess it , then they will give me an estimate in hours to finish ,@ £108 an hour
hopefully i ve done most of the work already to a good standard so it won t be £ £££ to finish and iva it
i also had an estimate to paint it £7,500 + vat from a local garage ! will be getting another quote on monday from a polish painter i know ,i will ask westfield also but they sub it out to another contractor
i didn t have fuel in it so it wasn t starting and time was running out with him ,
so today i got a fuel can and put petrol in it to see if it would start and no ! it won t,
i took off the fuel lines to see if it s pumping petrol though but it s not , the pump is running but nothing is coming out, i will check if i have the live wire on the correct side of the pump tomorrow
if it s not that then i don t know
electrician can t come again for 4 weeks so i can t wait any longer now , fed up with it
i contacted westfield to see how much it is to finish it for me , which i really didn t want to do , but it might of beaten me .
they charge a £ 500 rate to assess it , then they will give me an estimate in hours to finish ,@ £108 an hour
hopefully i ve done most of the work already to a good standard so it won t be £ £££ to finish and iva it
i also had an estimate to paint it £7,500 + vat from a local garage ! will be getting another quote on monday from a polish painter i know ,i will ask westfield also but they sub it out to another contractor
Edited by tricky360 on Wednesday 18th February 14:43
it’s not running now!
all last week its be starting but this week the immobiliser light has come on and now it’s not starting
don’t know what i’ve done , i haven’t changed anything or wired anything since last time .
i also don’t have a odometer or handbrake light or anything else on the dash since i put the electrics in ,
who knows .
so i’ve asked westfield to finish it for me , just waiting for them to reply to my email to organise transport.
really want to know what i’ve done ,and for future reference, i wanted to do another one ,but if i can’t do the electrics part then i won’t bother
so instead i got some small led indicators and fitted them into the wing mirrors .
this week i will fit all the panels on to the car and box up the parts .
all last week its be starting but this week the immobiliser light has come on and now it’s not starting
don’t know what i’ve done , i haven’t changed anything or wired anything since last time .
i also don’t have a odometer or handbrake light or anything else on the dash since i put the electrics in ,
who knows .
so i’ve asked westfield to finish it for me , just waiting for them to reply to my email to organise transport.
really want to know what i’ve done ,and for future reference, i wanted to do another one ,but if i can’t do the electrics part then i won’t bother
so instead i got some small led indicators and fitted them into the wing mirrors .
this week i will fit all the panels on to the car and box up the parts .
so today i got to the garage to put together all the body panels so it can be sent off to westfield.
first i did was to charge up the battery which i charged up the night before, when i had the auto electrician round he said there was a parasitic draw somewhere so the battery was slowly running down.
re fitted it , i now have one indicator light constantly on , immobiliser light on . two light bulbs work on the rear light cluster and are constantly on also .still won’t start now ,it turns over but iam getting a loud ticking noise from a sensor with the mitsubishi logo on it
i disconnected the battery and got on with body work instead
fitted front grill
this doesn’t come close to the frame it’s supposed to sit on
left that .
next was i wanted small indicators in the grill so i fitted them
nice and discreet
next was the exhaust
but really should fit this after the body as i discovered, the side panel on that side has to go under the exhaust
i also carried on with the cutting out of the vents on the bonnet and got them a bit closer to final stages , body shop and finish them up
after that i fitted the rest of the body
it’s a tight fit in a single garage.
first i did was to charge up the battery which i charged up the night before, when i had the auto electrician round he said there was a parasitic draw somewhere so the battery was slowly running down.
re fitted it , i now have one indicator light constantly on , immobiliser light on . two light bulbs work on the rear light cluster and are constantly on also .still won’t start now ,it turns over but iam getting a loud ticking noise from a sensor with the mitsubishi logo on it
i disconnected the battery and got on with body work instead
fitted front grill
this doesn’t come close to the frame it’s supposed to sit on
left that .
next was i wanted small indicators in the grill so i fitted them
nice and discreet
next was the exhaust
but really should fit this after the body as i discovered, the side panel on that side has to go under the exhaust
i also carried on with the cutting out of the vents on the bonnet and got them a bit closer to final stages , body shop and finish them up
after that i fitted the rest of the body
it’s a tight fit in a single garage.
You can buy an emulator/immobiliser bypass for the MK2 mx5 from a guy on eBay...
Some of your gremlins feel like a corroded connector/plug/relay somewhere...
I have had a fair bit to do with Darren over the years, I said an aftermarket ECU like a Motorsports ME221 would suit these much better, DIY diagnostics, no immobiliser issues etc etc etc, and base map/software for tuning is free too and each car can then be tuned properly...I think with the intake path and exhaust design requires a 'proper' tune..
As for Westfield to finish it, that could be 'interesting'...
Some of your gremlins feel like a corroded connector/plug/relay somewhere...
I have had a fair bit to do with Darren over the years, I said an aftermarket ECU like a Motorsports ME221 would suit these much better, DIY diagnostics, no immobiliser issues etc etc etc, and base map/software for tuning is free too and each car can then be tuned properly...I think with the intake path and exhaust design requires a 'proper' tune..
As for Westfield to finish it, that could be 'interesting'...
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