3428TM Build Log
Discussion
[quote]I suspect that it will be a long time before you get round to giving the BSA some deserved TLC.
[/quote]
[quote=GAjon]Glad to see it’s still moving along, even if at a slow pace!
Keep us posted.
[/quote] I will. After the little racer is complete, I’ll finish the bodywork on the café racer, then it’ be the green monster’s turn. The BSA will receive new wiring after that.
[/quote]
[quote=GAjon]Glad to see it’s still moving along, even if at a slow pace!
Keep us posted.
[/quote] I will. After the little racer is complete, I’ll finish the bodywork on the café racer, then it’ be the green monster’s turn. The BSA will receive new wiring after that.
This steel angle you speak of....is it the one between the upper door hinges running under the dash as a nod toward side impact protection.
The only other bit i can think of is the metal pipe/bracket assembly that stiffens the steering column....I know, not a steel angle.
Did I mention I am not certain the bit you might be speaking of.
Arthur
The only other bit i can think of is the metal pipe/bracket assembly that stiffens the steering column....I know, not a steel angle.
Did I mention I am not certain the bit you might be speaking of.
Arthur
V6 Pushfit said:
The steel angle uses here was usually a form of bracing, dash support and earth bar. It makes complete sense particularly if there’s a connection to a roll cage.
Unless of course yours is a bit of fence post fitted loosely !
Thanks for that. Unless of course yours is a bit of fence post fitted loosely !
Do any of you have a photo of it in situ?
The plan is to have a cage built for the car, but I won’t be the one who does the welding or the fab work, so it won’t be inexpensive. Once the cage goes in, there’ll be plenty of reinforcement and places to tie the cage and body together. Will especially try to get close to A and B pillar, and bond/bolt the two together there.
We decided that electrical work should be further down the road, so engine out and off to the engine builder.
Meanwhile, almost all electrical components are purchased. Still need a handful of engine sensors.
Papa’s little monster.
Meanwhile, almost all electrical components are purchased. Still need a handful of engine sensors.
Papa’s little monster.
Edited by Slow M on Tuesday 7th February 21:31
Edited by Slow M on Tuesday 7th February 21:32
Engine is fine but dirty. A wasp was colonizing one of the bores, all of which the machinist referred to as “b
hin’. Apparently, some disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly. I’m going to ask them to verify that the tolerances are set as they should be on an engine that’s expected to do a full season of endurance racing. Hi all,
I told the engine builder to stop.
I realized that, to solve the final real obstacle, I'd have to take the car and engine apart exactly as far again as they are right now.
I insisted on mounting the engine as low as possible in the chassis. The unintended consequence was that it turns the flywheel and bellhousing into a giant cow catcher or an equally sized aerodynamic nightmare. Remember that it's a dry sump engine and the pan is pretty snug to the crank. That places the bottom of the pan about flush with the bottom of the chassis. The plan has always been to have a flat bottom car with managed aero.
It looked like the main challenges ahead were in the amount of work in finding parts to adapt and in modifying them. It was obvious that I needed a smaller flywheel. That would mean moving the starter to the bellhousing side, or coming up with a way to use an intermediate gear to and leaving it in place. Almost as soon as I started looking for reverse drive starters, I discovered that other people have followed the same logic often enough that there are at least three companies manufacturing fairly standardized complete or partial multi-plate racing clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, and starter set ups. The 7 1/4" one that arrived yesterday is from Quartermaster. There are also 5 1/2" versions that are rated to 750lb-ft.
The unintended consequence of this round of mods is that the engine should spin up very quickly. Probably not motorcycle fast, but quickly enough that it may break traction annoyingly often. I've been warned. Let's see.
There's still going to have to be a lot of work thrown at these parts, or my previous bellhousing. Neither the transmission front mounting flange on the Tremec nor the center hole are per Ford. Additionally, the starter looks like it might foul the chassis, in the version I just bought (below). Not sure which of the two I want to modify.
One of the other modifications that we're going to make is to add 50oz of imbalance to the flywheel. Or to strategically remove it to get to the same end result. The balancing company will make that call.
I told the engine builder to stop.
I realized that, to solve the final real obstacle, I'd have to take the car and engine apart exactly as far again as they are right now.
I insisted on mounting the engine as low as possible in the chassis. The unintended consequence was that it turns the flywheel and bellhousing into a giant cow catcher or an equally sized aerodynamic nightmare. Remember that it's a dry sump engine and the pan is pretty snug to the crank. That places the bottom of the pan about flush with the bottom of the chassis. The plan has always been to have a flat bottom car with managed aero.
It looked like the main challenges ahead were in the amount of work in finding parts to adapt and in modifying them. It was obvious that I needed a smaller flywheel. That would mean moving the starter to the bellhousing side, or coming up with a way to use an intermediate gear to and leaving it in place. Almost as soon as I started looking for reverse drive starters, I discovered that other people have followed the same logic often enough that there are at least three companies manufacturing fairly standardized complete or partial multi-plate racing clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, and starter set ups. The 7 1/4" one that arrived yesterday is from Quartermaster. There are also 5 1/2" versions that are rated to 750lb-ft.
The unintended consequence of this round of mods is that the engine should spin up very quickly. Probably not motorcycle fast, but quickly enough that it may break traction annoyingly often. I've been warned. Let's see.
There's still going to have to be a lot of work thrown at these parts, or my previous bellhousing. Neither the transmission front mounting flange on the Tremec nor the center hole are per Ford. Additionally, the starter looks like it might foul the chassis, in the version I just bought (below). Not sure which of the two I want to modify.
One of the other modifications that we're going to make is to add 50oz of imbalance to the flywheel. Or to strategically remove it to get to the same end result. The balancing company will make that call.
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