3428TM Build Log
Discussion
Sure, but it'll be costly, and I can re-do a set of these in mild steel myself. The trick was finding a set of truck stacks in the exact right tubing diameter with the right turn out and slash cut, and these are perfect in every way. They turn out pretty sharply, and the slash cut starts right at the outside apex of the pipe. That as well as the slash align perfectly with the outside apex of the rear tire. Oh, and they cleaned up really well.
GTRene said:
good to hear, but are you parking it outside? if so, not that good for condens to get a grip on iron parts.
for now, what do you think is the time schedule for a drive in a ready to go TVR?
Thanks for the words of caution, Rene. Yes, it's being stored outside, while it's being worked on, and that will probably have to continue after it's finished. for now, what do you think is the time schedule for a drive in a ready to go TVR?
You can't imagine how difficult it is to find an indoor spot where I could work on it. I've offered my landlord $500/mo for MOST of the two car garage they offered to my neighbors for $300, and they declined. I had it in climate controlled storage with heady company (original Shelby Daytona coupe, lightweight E, and other legendary icons) for the same $500/mo, but I wasn't able to work on it.
You're right about the condensation, of course. The damp turned the factory nickel plating on the suspension arms to vapor within about 4 years. I'm just rubbing them with oil, now, and hosing them with BoeShield, PB Blaster, marine fogger, and whatever else I can think of.
Re: timing
I was hoping to hear it running before now, but my own life as well as those of others keep getting in the way.
As much as I love this car, my dog's health means much more than any progress I make on it.
I still have to make an air filter housing and cold air intake, mount the body, pull the exhausts again, get them coated, and reinstall, reassemble at least some of the interior, deal with the ergonomically perfect (yes, for me) but deteriorated seats, figure out the bell crank for the throttle at the pedal assembly, and so on.
So, . . . no idea? Yeah, that's my answer.
a, life's getting in the way, I can understand such and yes, there are more importand things which come first.
and wow, those prices for getting a car inside are madnes! 500 $ a month, no thank you :-)
Then you better buy a driveable car storage, some are cheap some expensive, but the car is then better stored and ow, movable, like a camper and when yo do not need it anymore, you can sell it for the same money.
I was thinking about such myself if I say buy a car but can't trade in my car (have only place for 1 car here, a although spacy 1 car garage) then put such vehicle (no road tax when its in that thing) in the 'car camper' and its dry stored, saver and no extra money :-)
and when no needed anymore sell it for the same money, or... for a profit if you yourself bought it for a bargain.
Just a Idea, maybe something for others as well...
for example, I mean this sort car transporters, not just to transport, but use it as a garage... some you can open on all sites and of course you can push it out when needed, but it won't cost more money every month and dry parking and no plastic/cloth over it needed.
this one cost just 15k new (ex tax)... but second hand (there are many) just a few thousand and remember, you can sell it afterwards if you wish, its like money not on the bank but for some time in such vehicle and afterwards again on the bank, cost nothing (can be)
and wow, those prices for getting a car inside are madnes! 500 $ a month, no thank you :-)
Then you better buy a driveable car storage, some are cheap some expensive, but the car is then better stored and ow, movable, like a camper and when yo do not need it anymore, you can sell it for the same money.
I was thinking about such myself if I say buy a car but can't trade in my car (have only place for 1 car here, a although spacy 1 car garage) then put such vehicle (no road tax when its in that thing) in the 'car camper' and its dry stored, saver and no extra money :-)
and when no needed anymore sell it for the same money, or... for a profit if you yourself bought it for a bargain.
Just a Idea, maybe something for others as well...
for example, I mean this sort car transporters, not just to transport, but use it as a garage... some you can open on all sites and of course you can push it out when needed, but it won't cost more money every month and dry parking and no plastic/cloth over it needed.
this one cost just 15k new (ex tax)... but second hand (there are many) just a few thousand and remember, you can sell it afterwards if you wish, its like money not on the bank but for some time in such vehicle and afterwards again on the bank, cost nothing (can be)
It's going to be protected by a high quality car cover, but if I want it living anywhere near me (and I do), it's going to have to be an outdoor car. I'm fine with that, by the way, and with occasionally removing parts for maintenance.
The storage trailers are great, but that would be an even bigger problem, because I'd have to find a facility to store that. My lease precludes having it at home.
Right now, I may be "down to" 3 cars and 2 motorcycles but it's still a logistical challenge. Primarily because you are only allowed to enjoy Southern California on a $/square meter basis. Another reason to continue to strive for property ownership.
The storage trailers are great, but that would be an even bigger problem, because I'd have to find a facility to store that. My lease precludes having it at home.
Right now, I may be "down to" 3 cars and 2 motorcycles but it's still a logistical challenge. Primarily because you are only allowed to enjoy Southern California on a $/square meter basis. Another reason to continue to strive for property ownership.
2x Mocal 19 Row, 235 Series Oil Cooler -12 AN Fittings
From all I've learned, this dry sump system should should take care of some of the engine cooling duties, taking some of the load off the main cooling system. Going to use the original brass rad, and test that theory.
Oil coolers located
Oil cooler brackets made
Idler pulley located
Intake trunking partially laid out
140 A altertuber/bracket need clearancing
On a sad note, that 3 1/2" intake pipe is cutting through the area previously earmarked for my musical horns.
From all I've learned, this dry sump system should should take care of some of the engine cooling duties, taking some of the load off the main cooling system. Going to use the original brass rad, and test that theory.
Oil coolers located
Oil cooler brackets made
Idler pulley located
Intake trunking partially laid out
140 A altertuber/bracket need clearancing
On a sad note, that 3 1/2" intake pipe is cutting through the area previously earmarked for my musical horns.
GAjon said:
Are you confident you will get enough air flow over the oil coolers in that orientation?
I'm thinking of the volume behind the grille as a pressurized box when the car is in motion. The oil cooler duct routing will dump into the wheel wells, from where hood vents will relieve the pressure buildup upwards. Also, the current crop of brushless cooling fans will help, if needed. (Pullers) According to lots of other people who have more experience with dry sump systems than I do, I am overdoing the cooling by one oil cooler.
After adding triangulation to the chassis, I only have enough space for pusher fans, for the radiator, but I'll probably put cones on them, for efficiency.
For what it's worth, I have zero confidence in anything, so it'll all be down to testing. I honestly don't for a second believe that there won't be a ton of tweaks, fettling, and general evolution, beyond the point of initial start-up. Some of the projects I'm not even planning to start until it's running play into that, like a plate to add rigidity to the open bottom of the transmission tunnel as well as one for under the engine, under body aero, and a few more.
What I do have is hope. Lots of hope. Mainly, the hope that it will show enough early promise that I won't want to set fire to it.
I'm impressed that you keep up the progress. Working without an enclosed garage can wear away at you. Always packing and unpacking plus waiting for decent weather conditions.
My first build was a '71 240Z that I built one car from 2 "cars" in the back of a lumberyard. I was much younger then.
Keep up the progress!
Arthur
My first build was a '71 240Z that I built one car from 2 "cars" in the back of a lumberyard. I was much younger then.
Keep up the progress!
Arthur
catfishdb said:
I'm impressed that you keep up the progress. Working without an enclosed garage can wear away at you. Always packing and unpacking plus waiting for decent weather conditions.
My first build was a '71 240Z that I built one car from 2 "cars" in the back of a lumberyard. I was much younger then.
Keep up the progress!
Arthur
Hey Arthur, My first build was a '71 240Z that I built one car from 2 "cars" in the back of a lumberyard. I was much younger then.
Keep up the progress!
Arthur
Thanks for the encouragement.
I really did a number on my back while threading my body through the chassis for welding, back in December, plus I've been prioritizing a very sweet, but sick dog.
I apprenticed in auto restoration in the Everglades. In a pole barn. A couple of ceiling fans. Some days were 99° and 99% humidity. Most days were not. That feels like the opposite extreme of when I had to walk to school barefoot, in the snow, uphill . . .
My own first one was a '58 Austin Healy Sprite MkI, with an 1,800cc B series with a hot cam, head work including porting shaved for high compression, two 1 5/8" SUs, and an MGA gearbox with straight cut gears. And a header. And Chevy Vega wheels. Someone in Vancouver built it for hillclimbs. "Owner/Mechanic Bob Hughes" was engraved on a stainless steel plate on the valve cover. The other one had the clearances on it.
Did that in my parents' garage, when I was 17-18.
B
Edited by Slow M on Saturday 13th July 07:18
Today was about gathering parts in anticipation of visiting the car tomorrow.
This had been tossed into one too many bins, scraped up, and had too much masking tape stuck to it.
Bucket
Water
Scotch Brite ultra fine
1200
2000
3000
Metal polish
I'm normally, not into polishing but this part deserves a little more pride. It's the starting point of the intake tract, right behind the air filters. I designed it based around research I read about different bellmouth shapes at a venturi intake vs none, and what shapes were most effective. It echoed what Gary from TWM Induction told me. Even if you have next to no space, you're still much better off with the smallest 180 degree bellmouth, than nothing at all. It's part of an overall attempt to not leave horsepower on the table.
This had been tossed into one too many bins, scraped up, and had too much masking tape stuck to it.
Bucket
Water
Scotch Brite ultra fine
1200
2000
3000
Metal polish
I'm normally, not into polishing but this part deserves a little more pride. It's the starting point of the intake tract, right behind the air filters. I designed it based around research I read about different bellmouth shapes at a venturi intake vs none, and what shapes were most effective. It echoed what Gary from TWM Induction told me. Even if you have next to no space, you're still much better off with the smallest 180 degree bellmouth, than nothing at all. It's part of an overall attempt to not leave horsepower on the table.
I know what you mean about sourcing nicer window winders and door release handles. My '74 had a version of the cheaply chromed and plastic 'factory' door hardware.
I settled on a minimal vintage Jaguar set. Something like the previous Vixen items.
It can be tough finding a happy medium.
I settled on a minimal vintage Jaguar set. Something like the previous Vixen items.
It can be tough finding a happy medium.
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