Restoring / Rewiring Pre 80s TVRs
Discussion
[quote=madsvlund]Hi Hans
A picture of my diagram (not that good as Jpeg) ...
And 2 things... for the power distribution, do I have main relays that are controlled from the ignition key, so only 20mA throu the key. Other power consumers are allso relay controlled, 10 in total, so there are only a few switches that directly switch on current.
And the main issue is current, the higher current the thicker cables, in order to avoid voltage drop over the wires.
For the ground thing... if you run without microprocessors (ECU) are there not many topics (except radio noise) and focus can be on current draw, all the current from the + wires need to go back throu ground to the alternator.
Hi Mads,
I have read the article ones but I think I need to do that more over.
My Vixen has a straight forward installation (no ECU's or whatsoever), so I can keep it simple.
After reading again I will ask the more simple questions.
Everything well with the driveline?
I kept mine original. Your solution with beamer stuff I want to do in the next project.
Hans
A picture of my diagram (not that good as Jpeg) ...
And 2 things... for the power distribution, do I have main relays that are controlled from the ignition key, so only 20mA throu the key. Other power consumers are allso relay controlled, 10 in total, so there are only a few switches that directly switch on current.
And the main issue is current, the higher current the thicker cables, in order to avoid voltage drop over the wires.
For the ground thing... if you run without microprocessors (ECU) are there not many topics (except radio noise) and focus can be on current draw, all the current from the + wires need to go back throu ground to the alternator.
Hi Mads,
I have read the article ones but I think I need to do that more over.
My Vixen has a straight forward installation (no ECU's or whatsoever), so I can keep it simple.
After reading again I will ask the more simple questions.
Everything well with the driveline?
I kept mine original. Your solution with beamer stuff I want to do in the next project.
Hans
switchboard in the making
Plate is a bond of 2 layer 2mm PCB FR4 fiberglass and one 1mm carbonfiber sheet from the local shipyard. Total thickness just below 6mm and stiff like hell, so I think for the dashboard and door plates, will I stay at 2mm FR4 + 1 mm carbon fiber.
It still need some clear coat + black paint on the edges.
The big question.... where to buy 10x10mm decals/silver stickers with function logo's ?
Plate is a bond of 2 layer 2mm PCB FR4 fiberglass and one 1mm carbonfiber sheet from the local shipyard. Total thickness just below 6mm and stiff like hell, so I think for the dashboard and door plates, will I stay at 2mm FR4 + 1 mm carbon fiber.
It still need some clear coat + black paint on the edges.
The big question.... where to buy 10x10mm decals/silver stickers with function logo's ?
Other ideas for wraping:
- spiral wrap, flexible but not very nice looking
- fabric tape, original choice for many applications/cars
- cut flex tube, oem solution from ford, flexible but not that nice looking
- heat shrink tubes, quite dificult to work with, but clean result, not flexible for additional wires
- heat shrink tape
- sock hose, dificult but very good protection
- spiral wrap, flexible but not very nice looking
- fabric tape, original choice for many applications/cars
- cut flex tube, oem solution from ford, flexible but not that nice looking
- heat shrink tubes, quite dificult to work with, but clean result, not flexible for additional wires
- heat shrink tape
- sock hose, dificult but very good protection
madsvlund said:
That look superb.
One question, do anybody know the spec of the M series rear screen heater ? I have just measured mine to apro 35 ohm, 0,35 A @ 12,4 V equal 5W
That seems to be a very low figure, even i don't have a clue of "normal" in terms of rear window heaters
don't know, maybe you can find it on here?One question, do anybody know the spec of the M series rear screen heater ? I have just measured mine to apro 35 ohm, 0,35 A @ 12,4 V equal 5W
That seems to be a very low figure, even i don't have a clue of "normal" in terms of rear window heaters
Hello all.
Busy with the electrics I checked the gauges.
Found out that the temp gauge doesn't work at all.
Even after running my engine for some time the needle still at zero.
Checked this forum for earlier topics on this subject and found items 1) stabilizer yes or no and 2) temperature sender Vauxhall Viva 1300.
I hav a S3 so no stabilizer.
And the sender was already in the original sender.
I have checked the cables and they are ok.
Earthing is fine ( engine and battery earthed to the frame.
I have shortcut the gauge to a battery (see pics) bur still no movement of the needle.
Did I do right and what else can I do (besides going to the gauge specialist) to check whether the gauge is in working order?
Thanks Hans
In the picture black wire is as in the car, brown is blue / brown in the car.
Busy with the electrics I checked the gauges.
Found out that the temp gauge doesn't work at all.
Even after running my engine for some time the needle still at zero.
Checked this forum for earlier topics on this subject and found items 1) stabilizer yes or no and 2) temperature sender Vauxhall Viva 1300.
I hav a S3 so no stabilizer.
And the sender was already in the original sender.
I have checked the cables and they are ok.
Earthing is fine ( engine and battery earthed to the frame.
I have shortcut the gauge to a battery (see pics) bur still no movement of the needle.
Did I do right and what else can I do (besides going to the gauge specialist) to check whether the gauge is in working order?
Thanks Hans
In the picture black wire is as in the car, brown is blue / brown in the car.
Hansoplast said:
Hello all.
Busy with the electrics I checked the gauges.
Found out that the temp gauge doesn't work at all.
Even after running my engine for some time the needle still at zero.
Checked this forum for earlier topics on this subject and found items 1) stabilizer yes or no and 2) temperature sender Vauxhall Viva 1300.
OR IS THE STABIZER PART OF THE REF COUNTER??????
I hav a S3 so no stabilizer.
And the sender was already in the original sender.
I have checked the cables and they are ok.
Earthing is fine ( engine and battery earthed to the frame.
I have shortcut the gauge to a battery (see pics) bur still no movement of the needle.
Did I do right and what else can I do (besides going to the gauge specialist) to check whether the gauge is in working order?
Thanks Hans
In the picture black wire is as in the car, brown is blue / brown in the car.
Busy with the electrics I checked the gauges.
Found out that the temp gauge doesn't work at all.
Even after running my engine for some time the needle still at zero.
Checked this forum for earlier topics on this subject and found items 1) stabilizer yes or no and 2) temperature sender Vauxhall Viva 1300.
OR IS THE STABIZER PART OF THE REF COUNTER??????
I hav a S3 so no stabilizer.
And the sender was already in the original sender.
I have checked the cables and they are ok.
Earthing is fine ( engine and battery earthed to the frame.
I have shortcut the gauge to a battery (see pics) bur still no movement of the needle.
Did I do right and what else can I do (besides going to the gauge specialist) to check whether the gauge is in working order?
Thanks Hans
In the picture black wire is as in the car, brown is blue / brown in the car.
wiring two speed Lucas DR3A wiper motors: I didn't really want to start a new thread just for this, but I do know that a couple of people have tried this and had problems.
Lucas two speed wiper motors might have been an option on the early cars. The standard was the single speed wiper.
Two speed motors can be recognised in that they have 3 wires coming out between the rear closing panel and the body, like this
whilst the on the single speed the wires are attached to spade connectors at the back.
If you are swapping out the single speed for the two speed the way the wiper motor is wired in, is not immediately obvious. I found a really well written explanation of the correct wiring
here
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/content.php?156...
Lucas two speed wiper motors might have been an option on the early cars. The standard was the single speed wiper.
Two speed motors can be recognised in that they have 3 wires coming out between the rear closing panel and the body, like this
whilst the on the single speed the wires are attached to spade connectors at the back.
If you are swapping out the single speed for the two speed the way the wiper motor is wired in, is not immediately obvious. I found a really well written explanation of the correct wiring
here
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/content.php?156...
Astacus said:
Lucas two speed wiper motors might have been an option on the early cars. The standard was the single speed wiper.
Does the second speed offer a faster or slower wipe than the single standard............that is,painfully slow and slow or just slow and slightly faster...............he ho and back to the comforts of the BMW on rainy days 
hello,
I have my 2 speed wiper working with help from this forum and some fiddling.
Nowhere to find the color scheme for the 5 cables to the switch on internet.
Colors of five cables to connector of motor are readily available.
In the end the result was as follows.
looking at the back of the switch.
top left a double spade with green (power from fuse) and green/red wire (live)
top right a blue/green wire ( high speed)
bottom left brown/green ( park)
bottom right red/green wire.( low speed)
My motor does not have an earth cable on the top of the cover for parking the wipers.
Internally mine has an lump under the wheel that (de)activates an plunger.
And yes the wipers are slow and not so slow but never fast and faster as an beamer.
Hope this helps.
Hans
I have my 2 speed wiper working with help from this forum and some fiddling.
Nowhere to find the color scheme for the 5 cables to the switch on internet.
Colors of five cables to connector of motor are readily available.
In the end the result was as follows.
looking at the back of the switch.
top left a double spade with green (power from fuse) and green/red wire (live)
top right a blue/green wire ( high speed)
bottom left brown/green ( park)
bottom right red/green wire.( low speed)
My motor does not have an earth cable on the top of the cover for parking the wipers.
Internally mine has an lump under the wheel that (de)activates an plunger.
And yes the wipers are slow and not so slow but never fast and faster as an beamer.
Hope this helps.
Hans
Alan,
In the plug to the wipermotor there is a black earth wire next to the mentioned 4 colored wires that leads to the switch.
So yes you need an ground wire.
See photo taken from internet. Top black wire.
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af156/someone1...
On my Triumph TR250 I had an wiper motor with the cover with red wire as shown in this item. And I had grounded the body of the motor separate.
BEAR IN MIND I AM AN AMATEUR and hate electric.
Still hope it helps.
Do not forget to fuse the motor seperately.
You can also tune your engine and go faster so rain will fall off
Hans
In the plug to the wipermotor there is a black earth wire next to the mentioned 4 colored wires that leads to the switch.
So yes you need an ground wire.
See photo taken from internet. Top black wire.
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af156/someone1...
On my Triumph TR250 I had an wiper motor with the cover with red wire as shown in this item. And I had grounded the body of the motor separate.
BEAR IN MIND I AM AN AMATEUR and hate electric.
Still hope it helps.
Do not forget to fuse the motor seperately.
You can also tune your engine and go faster so rain will fall off
Hans
plasticpig72 said:
Hans,
does that mean it needs an earth wire on wiper body for parking facility.
On my 1600M the wipers work fine but no parking facility which is a pain
Alan
does that mean it needs an earth wire on wiper body for parking facility.
On my 1600M the wipers work fine but no parking facility which is a pain
Alan
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff