4676 Refurb

Author
Discussion

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Wednesday 29th April 2015
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Just to update on this, the chassis travelled to RT and has now been blasted, they are working to correct a few welds, powdercoat chassis and refurbish rear hubs. I generously received an ARB from a club member, so that was that problem solved. Chassis turned out to be in good condition with outriggers previously replaced, they believe with body on at the time as the welds have not formed over the top.





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|http://thumbsnap.com/Ryo2M6yb[/url]

chris52

1,560 posts

182 months

Wednesday 29th April 2015
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A lot of work but in the end you will know that you have a rust free chassis that will last another 40 years. Great work and keep the updates coming.
Chris

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Thursday 30th July 2015
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Collected the chassis from RT today and over the moon with the result. Great job by the guys and a very knowledgeable friendly bunch! few extras fitted including towing eyes, mixture of polly and rubber bushes, few bits of metal replaced here and there. Hopefully I can be given the time over winter to build the remainder of the chassis up and start the body next year, slow progress but I will get there!







Back in my grandfathers garage, getting cramped in there now, parts need to go back on to make space.


chris52

1,560 posts

182 months

Thursday 30th July 2015
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Looking really good bet your well chuffed. Just a pointer for you make sure you wire up the starter motor before putting the body back on as it's a real pain to do as you just can't get to it with the manifolds and body on.
Chris

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Friday 7th August 2015
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Getting ready to refit the diff at the end of the month and I forgot to send off the lower brackets so consequently these didn't get done, I've stripped and painted them myself but need new bushes, anyone know the source? number 11 in the below picture. Also what grease should I be using on splined shaft at rear of gearbox and prop shaft? Thank you.


Adrian@

4,290 posts

281 months

Friday 7th August 2015
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The bush is a standard wishbone bush, and good quality CV grease...did you notice that my new version of 17 no longer requires a inner spacer tube?
Adrian@

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Sunday 9th August 2015
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OK thank you. Apologies Adrian I haven't had the chance to look over it in detail, I had a quick walk through talk through at RT and then it was a race to get the chassis back up North and me down South. I will have a better look at the end of the month.

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Saturday 29th August 2015
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Fitting the diff and prop shaft today and with the diff in position and all nuts and bolts tight, to get the prop shaft to line up it had to be eased out of its splined housing in the gearbox, rearwards towards the diff, this left about a 4cm gap as can be seen in pictures below. Wondering if this is correct orientation or am I missing something? just got that 'it doesn't look right' feeling about it.


Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Saturday 29th August 2015
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It doesn't look too bad. Technically the M and vixen has a fixed driveline with a relatively solid mounted diff and box.so tolerances etc can be quite tight.. in practise however things do flex so having a bit of space between the prop and gearbox won't hurt…as long as you have the splines fully engaged is all that matters about an inch of free travel is OK. It looks about an inch to where the polished surface on the prop ends

N.

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Tuesday 17th November 2015
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Just refitting the braking system, got to fit the rad and a few other tidy up jobs but then chassis work is complete. The nut that sits behind the grease cap on the stub axle, holding in the D washer and bearing, is there a torque setting for this? As dependant on how tight it is, seems to affect the rotation of the hub.




Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Tuesday 17th November 2015
quotequote all
DAKOTAstorm said:
Just refitting the braking system, got to fit the rad and a few other tidy up jobs but then chassis work is complete. The nut that sits behind the grease cap on the stub axle, holding in the D washer and bearing, is there a torque setting for this? As dependant on how tight it is, seems to affect the rotation of the hub.
I am assuming you are talking about the front hub. This is a taper roller bearing.
Google adjusting front Taper wheel bearings and you won't go wrong.

N.




DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Tuesday 17th November 2015
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Thanks Dollyman. From that Google I got tighten the nut whilst spinning the hub, as soon as the hub starts to bind or I feel resistance stop there, back the nut off until resistance disappears.

Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Tuesday 17th November 2015
quotequote all
DAKOTAstorm said:
Thanks Dollyman. From that Google I got tighten the nut whilst spinning the hub, as soon as the hub starts to bind or I feel resistance stop there, back the nut off until resistance disappears.
I generally tighten until it has a bit of resistance then back off 1/4 turn.. A little drag is OK and sharp beds in. Never too slack..
In reality you end up backing off to a point where you can get the split pin back in…Do it by feel and you will get the hang of it….Spin the slack hub by hand while tightening and as said you will get a feel for the lock up point..

Every mechanic will tell you his own particular method…

N.

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
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Anyone know what the handbrake cable is from or a replacement item? Everything thus far has been triumph but the handbrake assembly appears not to be. Fitted handbrake today and the outer sleeving is flaking/torn, with everything else being fresh and restored it will really annoy me if I fit this and leave it in poor condition!

nwarner

612 posts

259 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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I was told it was from a Hillman Minx but this could be wrong. Best bet is to try one of the Specialists like Adrian Venn.

Andrew Gray

4,969 posts

148 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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You could send it to Speedy Cables and get them to make a Replacement
Andrew

Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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DAKOTAstorm said:


Anyone know what the handbrake cable is from or a replacement item? Everything thus far has been triumph but the handbrake assembly appears not to be. Fitted handbrake today and the outer sleeving is flaking/torn, with everything else being fresh and restored it will really annoy me if I fit this and leave it in poor condition!
Send your old one to Richfield Speedograph and they will make you an exact replacement. Quick turn around to. The company have been going a very long time and do very nice authentic hand brake cables.

http://www.speedograph-richfield.com

N.

DAKOTAstorm

Original Poster:

419 posts

156 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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OK I will get in touch with the refurbishment companies and the usual sources into the new year. Took a little extra leave over Christmas and progressed quite while. Barring brake pipes, hand brake cables and fuel lines, everything is back on chassis and work on body started. Few pictures below.

I refurbished calipers and fitted new stainless pistons and seals.



Fitted with new discs and EBC Green Stuff pads.

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Refurbished and rebuilt rear drums, the RH one in photo is incorrect, trial and error for a while with these for me!

|http://thumbsnap.com/NSEqQJTO[/url][url]

Bonnet frame was removed and had been fibre glassed in, every where it had been glassed in was rotten, every where it hadn't was solid!

|http://thumbsnap.com/DMdAAmfr[/url][url]

Body returning from being blasted.

|http://thumbsnap.com/Yn5KeGpv[/url]

I need to drag the chassis out and give it a good clean down, paint a few more things and then it will be complete, I cant imagine I will have time for this until start of summer. Then start final touches on body before my skills run out and its off to a professional for the finish.

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

148 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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well done things are looking good.
Nice start for the New Year.
Alan

chris52

1,560 posts

182 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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Looking really good.
What are your thoughts on the blasting is the surface fairly smooth or will it need a lot of work to get it to primer level.
Chris