3000M 1972 Seat bolting question

[MattT350T]

Hi again, final cry for friendly help this evening.
I recently removed the passenger seat for carpet replacement... I had to grind off the studs on the underside of the car to allow seat removal.
I now cannot for the life of me work out how to replace the seat within the car. I simply have no access to any of the bolting assembly points, be it bottom rail to car, or middle rail to lower rail.
I have attached a fairly unhelpful image of the view from the front of this car's mounting system in case it is non standard..

[nwarner]

I'm not 100% sure what your question is. I presume you have fitted new bolts to the seat runners that go through the floor (the bolt should go through the runner and it should be held tight by a nut under the runner which don't cause a problem because of the 2 wooden levellers. I couldn't see the 2 pieces of wood that go under the runners to make the seat sit at the right angle. When I put my seats back in I first of all make sure I can see where the holes are from inside the car. Then make sure the 4 bolts on the runners are square then just drop the seat in making sure you don't move the wooden levellers. It may take a few attempts to get it right.

Good luck

Nige

[plasticpig72]

When you put the new screws in the runners with nuts be sure to tack weld each screw head.
If you don't one day you will want to remove the seats again and the screws in the runners will start turning. It's very difficult to get a spanner to the screw heads to stop them turning.
Alan

[tvrmk363]

Tacking the heads in the track is good. In the absence of a welder like NWarner said, Drop the bolt in the track and put a nut on and run it up tight to hold everything together. the nuts will sit on top of the wood runner or you can countersink the holes and the seat runner will sit down on the wood. Drop it in place and crawl under and add flat washers and nylocs to complete the job.

[plasticpig72]

I do both, nut done up very tight and tack weld screw head. Local garage can tack weld.
I know maybe ott but nothing is worse than faffing about trying to undo a nut and impossible to block screw head.
I think once the seat is back in place with nuts and penny washers secured underneath, it's a good idea to cut off excess thread below nuts. That means no exposed thread to rust and make removal difficult at a later date.
Alan

[phillpot]

plasticpig72 said:

That means no exposed thread to rust and make removal difficult at a later date.

Stainless nuts and bolts


Some more ideas here.......... clicky

[MattT350T]

Hi all again.
Thanks for all previous replies. I've just come back to this issue and re-reading all responses to my original garbled question.
You say that there should be some wooden spacer/runners between seat rail and floor. These do not exist on my car. I have long suspected that something like wooden spacers should be in place. Has anyone a sketch with some dimensions they could possibly show me at all please for these spacers? I'll then go for both the tack and double nut approach talked about thankyou :-)

[MattT350T]

Hi again all. Apologies for repeating my previous question regarding wooden seat rail supports but is anyone able to suggest approximate dimensions of these pieces and in which orientation they sit within the cat please?
This may sound obvious to those on the know, sorry. On my T350 I notice the equivalent seat mount strengthening supports run across the car from seat mount bolt to seat mount bolt. One front and one back of the seat.

[nwarner]

Hi Matt

I'm on holiday at the moment so I can't measure mine. They need to be about one inch wide and about half an inch longer than where the runner bolt hole will be. Make sure you drill the holes so they're wide enough for the nuts holding the bolts secure to fit inside. The idea of the 2 pieces of wood is to make the seat level on the floor so one side will need to be thicker than the other. Just use a spirit level to work out how much the difference in thickness should be.

Nige