TVR 2500M LS6 Swap
Discussion
I purchased a 1973 2500M a few months back to restore. The motor was not original and needed some top end work. I had a thought of just rebuilding it having been a Triumph guy for many years. I also know what it takes to keep these motors running.
Living in Colorado, and enjoying mountain drives, I figured I could use a few more horses than this 2.5L could put out. So I decided to install an engine I had in my garage from another project: a 2001 Corvette Z06 LS6 mated to a 2002 Camaro T56 6 speed. Spec is 405HP/400 ft lbs of torque. By the way, the picture below is not my garage but where the car was stored before purchase.
This forum has been helpful in seeing one or two others install LS motors in earlier TVRs, but I have only seen a few out there with an LSX in a 2500M.
I will be asking lots of questions. Will be posting pics as I go. So here we go. This is what I bought:
Living in Colorado, and enjoying mountain drives, I figured I could use a few more horses than this 2.5L could put out. So I decided to install an engine I had in my garage from another project: a 2001 Corvette Z06 LS6 mated to a 2002 Camaro T56 6 speed. Spec is 405HP/400 ft lbs of torque. By the way, the picture below is not my garage but where the car was stored before purchase.
This forum has been helpful in seeing one or two others install LS motors in earlier TVRs, but I have only seen a few out there with an LSX in a 2500M.
I will be asking lots of questions. Will be posting pics as I go. So here we go. This is what I bought:
Body has been removed. Remember to lift up the back of the car first and slide backwards before lifting off. These don't lift straight up as the body surrounds the frame upfront near the engine.
Stripped off most of the silvery green. Debating whether to have it soda blasted or using the DA sander to get down to the clear gelcoat. Lots of crazing from being in the sun so I expect I may need to redo the gelcoat. But this is further down the road.
Stripped off most of the silvery green. Debating whether to have it soda blasted or using the DA sander to get down to the clear gelcoat. Lots of crazing from being in the sun so I expect I may need to redo the gelcoat. But this is further down the road.
After removing the body, I set the LS6/T56 in the TVR chassis. I reversed the stock Z06 manifolds for now and the engine is setting on them now. I am waiting on a set of "up and forward" twin turbo headers to arrive to see how they may fit. Twin turbos....likely not needed but they may fit well given the clearance issues between the chassis and any V8.
I had purchased some LSX relocation brackets for a previous C3 Corvette swap and they line the engine mount up to the original factory mount almost exactly. I will be welding in mounts to the front once I get everything set. The T56 tranny mount is very close to the original tranny crossmember location. Sweet! I expect little effort to fab up a mount.
Once I have fabricated the mounts, I am going to need some advice on additional locations for chassis strengthening. I have seen posts where folks say the 2500M chassis is strong enough for most engine swaps. If you have any thoughts on this, let me know please. Otherwise I am pulling the suspension and rear diff, and sending the chassis out for media blasting and powder coating when I am done welding. What rear diff to put in is another question.
Here are some pics.
I had purchased some LSX relocation brackets for a previous C3 Corvette swap and they line the engine mount up to the original factory mount almost exactly. I will be welding in mounts to the front once I get everything set. The T56 tranny mount is very close to the original tranny crossmember location. Sweet! I expect little effort to fab up a mount.
Once I have fabricated the mounts, I am going to need some advice on additional locations for chassis strengthening. I have seen posts where folks say the 2500M chassis is strong enough for most engine swaps. If you have any thoughts on this, let me know please. Otherwise I am pulling the suspension and rear diff, and sending the chassis out for media blasting and powder coating when I am done welding. What rear diff to put in is another question.
Here are some pics.
This will be a good thread.
You mentioned twin turbo's. Many years ago I built up an ls6 with custom forged low comp pistons (D shaped dish to retain quench and squish, mirroring the head shape). I also fitted 317 truck heads to lower the compression more. This gave me the option of running low, mid or high compression ratios whilst using ls6 sodium exhaust valves. The turbo's were garratt GT28's so pretty compact. The engine cost an absolute fortune to build and I ended up selling it to somebody in Finland.
You mentioned twin turbo's. Many years ago I built up an ls6 with custom forged low comp pistons (D shaped dish to retain quench and squish, mirroring the head shape). I also fitted 317 truck heads to lower the compression more. This gave me the option of running low, mid or high compression ratios whilst using ls6 sodium exhaust valves. The turbo's were garratt GT28's so pretty compact. The engine cost an absolute fortune to build and I ended up selling it to somebody in Finland.
[quote=TVRLS6] What rear diff to put in is another question. [quote]
Almost finished the build on a 1972/3 3000M with a 331 producing similar numbers.
I converted to a Salisbury diff using the install from the later TVR 3000M.
Think there maybe some easier to get items in Colorado that will do a job for you
Almost finished the build on a 1972/3 3000M with a 331 producing similar numbers.
I converted to a Salisbury diff using the install from the later TVR 3000M.
Think there maybe some easier to get items in Colorado that will do a job for you
TVRMs said:
TVRLS6] What rear diff to put in is another question. [quote said:
Almost finished the build on a 1972/3 3000M with a 331 producing similar numbers.
I converted to a Salisbury diff using the install from the later TVR 3000M.
Think there maybe some easier to get items in Colorado that will do a job for you
is that the same setup used in the Jaguars prior to say 1986? I can find those pretty easily, pne with a LSD, not as easy....but I am looking. Thx. I converted to a Salisbury diff using the install from the later TVR 3000M.
Think there maybe some easier to get items in Colorado that will do a job for you
Thanks Gents. I have looked at a lot of Steve's posts. Impressive! There is another Pistonhead's user called Catfish that has a similar look and header configuration to what I want to do and is a nice setup. Not sure what motor he is running but it may be a Ford?
But the look I am going for is the 5000M that I am sure a lot of folk's drool over.
I really like the stance.
But the look I am going for is the 5000M that I am sure a lot of folk's drool over.
I really like the stance.
Edited by TVRLS6 on Tuesday 16th May 23:21
Edited by TVRLS6 on Wednesday 17th May 01:56
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Arthur.
That is one sweet build! I am using yours as a go by for mine but with the LS6. I like how you routed the exhaust. Superb job on the entire car. Looks super professional.
Did you powdercoat or paint the chassis? Looks awesome.
How does it run? Are you satisfied with the performance and handling?
Tons of questions.
Ty
That is one sweet build! I am using yours as a go by for mine but with the LS6. I like how you routed the exhaust. Superb job on the entire car. Looks super professional.
Did you powdercoat or paint the chassis? Looks awesome.
How does it run? Are you satisfied with the performance and handling?
Tons of questions.
Ty
Hi Ty,
It is still a work in progress. I drive it as much as I can. Gives me a time figure out what to do next.
I want to keep it as original as possible on the exterior but there might be subtle changes.
I had the frame zinc coated, then powder coated in a gun metal grey. Your frame looks to be in solid shape other than what appears to be surface rust. There were a few adjustments made to the frame before it was powder coated. The handbrake lever was replaced in an attempt to get a bit more holding power on the lever. There were an additional set of tubes welded in where the frame widens to accept the transmission/motor. And gussets were added to some of the suspension pick-up points. The square tube in front of engine was modified to accept the pulley assembly.
I also had the hood hinge assembly altered and now have a fully vertically opening hood.
The image above shows an earlier radiator. It ran a bit hot with the second V8 so it has been uprated to larger fans and a larger aluminum radiator. The manifolds were ceramic coated to keep the heat in the engine compartment down but you will soon realize the heat has to go somewhere. So it pushes it thru to the tunnel. The car gets a bit warm in the summer.
It has Bilstein coils and shocks. I will change the coils to something a bit softer. The present setup is a bit harsh and twitchy on rough surfaces.
It is an absolute hoot to drive. Loud, really quick. Difficult to get the power down, but get it right and let the power build and you are in for a ride.
Arthur
It is still a work in progress. I drive it as much as I can. Gives me a time figure out what to do next.
I want to keep it as original as possible on the exterior but there might be subtle changes.
I had the frame zinc coated, then powder coated in a gun metal grey. Your frame looks to be in solid shape other than what appears to be surface rust. There were a few adjustments made to the frame before it was powder coated. The handbrake lever was replaced in an attempt to get a bit more holding power on the lever. There were an additional set of tubes welded in where the frame widens to accept the transmission/motor. And gussets were added to some of the suspension pick-up points. The square tube in front of engine was modified to accept the pulley assembly.
I also had the hood hinge assembly altered and now have a fully vertically opening hood.
The image above shows an earlier radiator. It ran a bit hot with the second V8 so it has been uprated to larger fans and a larger aluminum radiator. The manifolds were ceramic coated to keep the heat in the engine compartment down but you will soon realize the heat has to go somewhere. So it pushes it thru to the tunnel. The car gets a bit warm in the summer.
It has Bilstein coils and shocks. I will change the coils to something a bit softer. The present setup is a bit harsh and twitchy on rough surfaces.
It is an absolute hoot to drive. Loud, really quick. Difficult to get the power down, but get it right and let the power build and you are in for a ride.
Arthur
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