Essex Percolator

[anonymous-user]

Mine has a good coil, electronic ignition and from cold is generally a first time starter. One reason why I think it’s heat percolation is if I floor it on a hot day on a motorway it’s runs fine, come off the motorway and do another very slow mile and I’ll get spluttering on acceleration, some backfiring and then engine stopping - if however I get to a decent road and an able to get speeds up it gets back to normal. A T junction or a traffic jam after the motorway bit is fatal!

[plasticpig72]

You have a good point there mixing things up.
Once the Engine is hot and doesn't want to start that is the time to check Voltage to Coil while Cranking with a Multimeter.
If no Voltage when Cranking hot find out where the Power is going.
Alan

[anonymous-user]

Plan of action:
1. Fit plenum and duct to get cool air in - the 38DGAS won’t fit so I’ve made a mock up to get made in fibreglass or carbon fibre. I may also get a DGAS one and try to adapt it so whichever works best I’ll use.
2. Fit fan to rear of rad
3. The dizzy won’t turn more due to hitting the thermostat housing. I’ll take it out and turn it one cog so I have adjustment as although timing is ok a degree or two retarding wouldn’t be a bad thing. This is a sod of a job though!
4. Check the hot spark and coil voltage. Thinking about it I did run a direct test feed to the coil and that didn’t help the hot starting so I don’t think it’s that.

The car has been unusable due to this issue so I’m determined to nail it.

With sincere apologies to Alan for hijacking the topic

[plasticpig72]

No problem,,
I'm sure if we put are heads together we can as you say nail the problem and put it to bed.
Summer will be here sooon and we need to drive our Blackpool Rockets.
Alan

[SRT Hellcat]

I am going back many years but I had a similar problem with a MK1 3 litre GXL Capri running a 3.1 litre engine and triple webbers. It turned out to be a leak on the inlet manifold gasket. By the time I realised what the problem was it had eroded part of the mating face away. I would also suggest ensuring that all the air coming through the front grille goes through the radiator by closing of the air gaps around the radiator. Air will take the path of least resistance. Opening the bonnet at the back is not a good idea as this is a high pressure area. So air will be forced back into the engine bay and therefore reduce the effect of the cooling air coming into the engine bay.

Edited by SRT Hellcat on Monday 18th March 21:12

[anonymous-user]

SRT Hellcat said:

I am going back many years but I had a similar problem with a MK1 3 litre GXL Capri running a 3.1 litre engine and triple webbers. It turned out to be a leak on the inlet manifold gasket. By the time I realised what the problem was it had eroded part of the mating face away. I would also suggest ensuring that all the air coming through the front grille goes through the radiator by closing of the air gaps around the radiator. Air will take the path of least resistance. Opening the bonnet at the back is not a good idea as this is a high pressure area. So air will be forced back into the engine bay and therefore reduce the effect of the cooling air coming into the engine bay.

Air or water leak? I think the idea of bonnet lifting is to significantly remove the heated air when slow/stationary rather than let it become like a sauna, the hot air leaving will also pull colder air in below?

[SRT Hellcat]

V6 Pushfit said:

Air or water leak? I think the idea of bonnet lifting is to significantly remove the heated air when slow/stationary rather than let it become like a sauna, the hot air leaving will also pull colder air in below?

From memory it was pressurising the system. At slow/stationary yes it would let heat out but it will work against you when on the move

[anonymous-user]

I’m going to have to up my game then if dealing with an engine that wants to defy the laws of physics