Chassis refurb - a brief description of process
Discussion
I know lots of you guys have carried out your own chassis refurb projects. I'm just checking the main tasks to work out how long it is likely to take me to carry out the strip down and rebuild elements. I would use specialists to do any blasting, welding & spraying.
0) Remove bonnet & inner arches
1) Disconnect electrical wiring, brake pipes, fuel pipe, clutch cable, heater cable, throttle cable, steering column, body to chassis bolts ???
2) Body lift & separation of rolling chassis
3) Remove engine, gearbox, prop shaft, diff, drive shafts, 4 x suspension corner units, brake pipes
4) Remove wishbones
5) Specialist work to chassis & suspension
6) Rebuild as above but in reverse
Have I missed loads or is this about right?
Moto
0) Remove bonnet & inner arches
1) Disconnect electrical wiring, brake pipes, fuel pipe, clutch cable, heater cable, throttle cable, steering column, body to chassis bolts ???
2) Body lift & separation of rolling chassis
3) Remove engine, gearbox, prop shaft, diff, drive shafts, 4 x suspension corner units, brake pipes
4) Remove wishbones
5) Specialist work to chassis & suspension
6) Rebuild as above but in reverse
Have I missed loads or is this about right?
Moto
Have you thought about how you are going to do the lift and where to store the tub while it's all going on?
I suppose it isn't really an issue if you have a big space, but I fitted a pair of beams across my small garage walls on wall plates, then I lifted the tub with a pair of pulley arrangements, dropped the beams into the wall hangers and then lowered the tub onto the beams. Its a bit hair raising getting the back of the tub high enough to disengage the front end but it all seems to work. My tub has been off for years so I have no trouble lifting it , but some people say that getting the tub separated form the rubber sheeting used between chassis and tub can be difficult. Yo can gently jack it up I think.
All minor points but worth considering.
Obvs helps to have mates to give you a hand!
I suppose it isn't really an issue if you have a big space, but I fitted a pair of beams across my small garage walls on wall plates, then I lifted the tub with a pair of pulley arrangements, dropped the beams into the wall hangers and then lowered the tub onto the beams. Its a bit hair raising getting the back of the tub high enough to disengage the front end but it all seems to work. My tub has been off for years so I have no trouble lifting it , but some people say that getting the tub separated form the rubber sheeting used between chassis and tub can be difficult. Yo can gently jack it up I think.
All minor points but worth considering.
Obvs helps to have mates to give you a hand!
Take lots and lots of photos as you go ( the beauty of digital) and file them in a logical order for reference.
Don’t waste time on body bolts, cut them off your going to replace most bolts and fasteners anyway.
When you lift the body up have a spare person around to go and undo/remove the bit you’ve forgot or overlooked.
Oh, and it’s easier to lift the body up and roll the chassis out than try and crab walk the body.
Don’t waste time on body bolts, cut them off your going to replace most bolts and fasteners anyway.
When you lift the body up have a spare person around to go and undo/remove the bit you’ve forgot or overlooked.
Oh, and it’s easier to lift the body up and roll the chassis out than try and crab walk the body.
Whatever you send to be sand blasted, make sure the exposed threads and insides of bushes are properly protected. If you get bits of grit in a bush it's the devils own job to clean it all out. If there's no rust then media blasting might be better. I left the bolts/pins inside the bushes thinking they would protect and the grit still got in making it very difficult to separate.
While the engine is out, do the rings,mains and big ends just in case. At least check the tolerances.
Leave the body with the targa roof on to help stop any sagging. (i.e. on a wedge).
Mark everything you take off! two years later is a bit long to remember precisely what went where.
Have a system for storing stuff logically and take pictures of the stored stuff so you can find it later.
Read all the posts and blogs here as they help enormously.
Buy nuts and bolts in job lots to save money, stick the remaining stuff on Ebay for the next guy (Me ?
)
Well done for saving one and Good Luck !!
While the engine is out, do the rings,mains and big ends just in case. At least check the tolerances.
Leave the body with the targa roof on to help stop any sagging. (i.e. on a wedge).
Mark everything you take off! two years later is a bit long to remember precisely what went where.
Have a system for storing stuff logically and take pictures of the stored stuff so you can find it later.
Read all the posts and blogs here as they help enormously.
Buy nuts and bolts in job lots to save money, stick the remaining stuff on Ebay for the next guy (Me ?
)Well done for saving one and Good Luck !!
Cheers for the feedback. All good points and taken on board.
I do think the chassis is pretty good but with shabby and peeling paint and light surface rust in odd places. It is more about getting it tidy and stopping any rust before it starts.
I'm planning this as next winter's project to start after the end of the race season - last event is early October with first event early April. That gives max 4 months realistically, so aiming for 3 mth start to finish (1 month contingency). Before I start I need to know it's do'able and have everything ready and prep'd as far as is possible with the knowledge that there will inevitably be surprises and delays.
A couple more questions :
1) Are Vixen new wishbones available from anywhere. I've seen people add a diagonal brace to 'M' series wishbones - is this worthwhile?
2) I will be adding two new chassis cross members for the seats to bolt to. Any other worthwhile chassis mods?
Bear in mind this is a Ford Crossflow engined car that will never be pushing big power - 150bhp max.
Moto
I do think the chassis is pretty good but with shabby and peeling paint and light surface rust in odd places. It is more about getting it tidy and stopping any rust before it starts.
I'm planning this as next winter's project to start after the end of the race season - last event is early October with first event early April. That gives max 4 months realistically, so aiming for 3 mth start to finish (1 month contingency). Before I start I need to know it's do'able and have everything ready and prep'd as far as is possible with the knowledge that there will inevitably be surprises and delays.
A couple more questions :
1) Are Vixen new wishbones available from anywhere. I've seen people add a diagonal brace to 'M' series wishbones - is this worthwhile?
2) I will be adding two new chassis cross members for the seats to bolt to. Any other worthwhile chassis mods?
Bear in mind this is a Ford Crossflow engined car that will never be pushing big power - 150bhp max.
Moto
My strip down went relatively quick, the whole thing taking about a week to get it into individual parts. The things that took the most time were the removal of rusted bolts, nuts, fasteners. Then all the sealant and excess glue. These were horrible jobs, very labour intensive. You then find once your chassis comes back looking amazing and new, the parts you’d piled in the corner ready to be refitted, now all need cleaning/painting to match the chassis!
Moto said:
Cheers for the feedback. All good points and taken on board.
I do think the chassis is pretty good but with shabby and peeling paint and light surface rust in odd places. It is more about getting it tidy and stopping any rust before it starts.
I'm planning this as next winter's project to start after the end of the race season - last event is early October with first event early April. That gives max 4 months realistically, so aiming for 3 mth start to finish (1 month contingency). Before I start I need to know it's do'able and have everything ready and prep'd as far as is possible with the knowledge that there will inevitably be surprises and delays.
A couple more questions :
1) Are Vixen new wishbones available from anywhere. I've seen people add a diagonal brace to 'M' series wishbones - is this worthwhile?
2) I will be adding two new chassis cross members for the seats to bolt to. Any other worthwhile chassis mods?
Bear in mind this is a Ford Crossflow engined car that will never be pushing big power - 150bhp max.
Moto
I think the wishbones are available from Duncan Reuben at TVR Classics.I do think the chassis is pretty good but with shabby and peeling paint and light surface rust in odd places. It is more about getting it tidy and stopping any rust before it starts.
I'm planning this as next winter's project to start after the end of the race season - last event is early October with first event early April. That gives max 4 months realistically, so aiming for 3 mth start to finish (1 month contingency). Before I start I need to know it's do'able and have everything ready and prep'd as far as is possible with the knowledge that there will inevitably be surprises and delays.
A couple more questions :
1) Are Vixen new wishbones available from anywhere. I've seen people add a diagonal brace to 'M' series wishbones - is this worthwhile?
2) I will be adding two new chassis cross members for the seats to bolt to. Any other worthwhile chassis mods?
Bear in mind this is a Ford Crossflow engined car that will never be pushing big power - 150bhp max.
Moto
Other things to think of: Handbrake cable renew while you are in there. I think they are available from one of the race gear companies at least (Racetech?). Brake lines check and replace if necessary. Likewise fuel lines. make sure they are ethanol compliant.
TVRMs said:
I wonder if the intricate almost birdcage TVR chassis is the same proposition Alan?
I don't know but when i crawl under my Sprint i am always happy to see the Chassis in perfect condition.TVR Chassis seem to like the rust the same as Lotus non galvanised ones.
For sure with the Tube Chassis on a TVR you would need to drill some holes to ventilate during the process.
But the Holes can be easily pluged using Rivnuts.
Even with epoxy powder paint when it cracks and then water creeps in under to rust the Chassis.
I don't plan to change a Chassis on one of my TVRs but if i did i would look at galvanising possibilities.
Alan
The galvanised Chassis on my Elan Sprint is more flexible than a TVR Chassis and no problems. Years ago i had also an Elan Plus 2 i fitted a galvanised Chassis to no problems. I helped a friend to fit a galvanised Chassis to his Elan Plus 2 and no problems.
I saw a TVR 3000M for sale with galvanised Chassis and a short while ago a white Marcos with galvanised Chassis.
I think it's a personal choice and a job you only want to do once.
Alan
I saw a TVR 3000M for sale with galvanised Chassis and a short while ago a white Marcos with galvanised Chassis.
I think it's a personal choice and a job you only want to do once.
Alan
It’s not exotic, there are lots of metal finishing companies who will do it.
It’ should be considered as a primer coat , as should HDG on a thin chassis, so is part of a paint system.
Mine was grit blasted
Hot zinc metal sprayed 100 microns
2 pack epoxy sealer 25 mu
2 pack epoxy hb primer 50 mu
2 pack polyurethane gloss 35 mu
Paid £475 in 2006.
Powdercoat ( which in my opinion if done correct is brilliant) was £100 cheaper.
It’ should be considered as a primer coat , as should HDG on a thin chassis, so is part of a paint system.
Mine was grit blasted
Hot zinc metal sprayed 100 microns
2 pack epoxy sealer 25 mu
2 pack epoxy hb primer 50 mu
2 pack polyurethane gloss 35 mu
Paid £475 in 2006.
Powdercoat ( which in my opinion if done correct is brilliant) was £100 cheaper.
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