AWD Civic Coupe Turbo Build
Discussion
neiljohnson said:
Will be a bit mental when its done, have you upgraded the internals of the rear diff?? they fail on stock crv's so i would imagine it wont last long once yours is putting a lot more power through it.
Its going to be a learning curve, as its never been done like this before, so ill just have to wait and see..
purplecivicturbo said:
I can see why some wouldnt like the 4wd, to be honest its a weird one.. The handling of the car will be set up as a front wheel drive, as its only part time..
awesome stuff dude 
I've moved from a 40% front, 60% rear (ford drivetrain), to 50/50 (Peugeot & Subaru), and now on 'variable' 60% front 40% rear (Haldex).
TBH, in its standard format Haldex isn't that good (too slow and unpredictable). A more aggressive Blue controller (engages clutch based on throttle response as well as slip sensors) and front & rear transverse ATB diff's fixed that.
Being a Honda I bet you've got a much better selection of diffs to choose from, including race-proven plate/grippers.
It's now much better at agility/rally style work than my previous cars (95% of its use). Disengagement of power to rear during braking is very handy too, no "torsen oversteer".
Much much better in the snow & ice, particularly on steep descents.
ps
Garrett's a very patient looking hound !
on Thursday 12th January 10:06
snowmuncher said:
awesome stuff dude
I've moved from a 40% front, 60% rear (ford drivetrain), to 50/50 (Peugeot & Subaru), and now on 'variable' 60% front 40% rear (Haldex).
TBH, in its standard format Haldex isn't that good (too slow and unpredictable). A more aggressive Blue controller (engages clutch based on throttle response as well as slip sensors) and front & rear transverse ATB diff's fixed that.
Being a Honda I bet you've got a much better selection of diffs to choose from, including race-proven plate/grippers.
It's now much better at agility/rally style work than my previous cars (95% of its use). Disengagement of power to rear during braking is very handy too, no "torsen oversteer".
Much much better in the snow & ice, particularly on steep descents.
ps
Garrett's a very patient looking hound !
Thats quite interesting information mate.. I can pretty much use any data from the car i want to drive the torque split.. Im going to connect pretty much everything to it, then i have the choice when i program it.. Ill have to see how i can get it to shape up, do you know what the difference is with the upgraded Haldex controller over the standard one..I've moved from a 40% front, 60% rear (ford drivetrain), to 50/50 (Peugeot & Subaru), and now on 'variable' 60% front 40% rear (Haldex).
TBH, in its standard format Haldex isn't that good (too slow and unpredictable). A more aggressive Blue controller (engages clutch based on throttle response as well as slip sensors) and front & rear transverse ATB diff's fixed that.
Being a Honda I bet you've got a much better selection of diffs to choose from, including race-proven plate/grippers.
It's now much better at agility/rally style work than my previous cars (95% of its use). Disengagement of power to rear during braking is very handy too, no "torsen oversteer".
Much much better in the snow & ice, particularly on steep descents.
ps
Garrett's a very patient looking hound !
Garrett is pretty patient, to a limit.. He isnt afraid of windy drills either which is great..
Thanks Kieran, its been a while coming..
Thanks alot as well chaps.. Its not as bonkers as i wish it could have been.. i was going to put the engine in the back with drive to the front wheels.. Id still love to..
purplecivicturbo said:
do you know what the difference is with the upgraded Haldex controller over the standard one..
The differences are two fold. You get a new controller and pump unit (painted blue, hence 'Blue' Haldex). The pump allows the haldex clutch to engage faster and with a more power (10% more power to rear than OE).The second part is the software upgraded (the ROM chipped is stored in the controller unit, all plug-n-play). The software responds to the speed at which the throttle is depressed (drive-by-wire throttle on haldex cars). If you stamp on the gas pedal, the haldex engages basically.
The software also speeds up the response rate to data from other sensors. Basically blue haldex enages before any human-detectable slip.
The OE controller might take upto a second to respond, by which time a 1/2 decent driver would have started trying to counter any slip - which can lead to over-compensation when rear power arrives.
In my setup I also have a Peloquin ATB diff in the gearbox working across the front axle, which works with the haldex system very very effectively, greatly reducing the workload on the haldex.
I also have another Peloquin in the rear diff unit, after the haldex unit, working across the rear axle.
Ahh that is awesome.. At the moment im just using open diffs.. I can deal with the custom / modified diffs when the car is driving..
I havnt seen many people who could tell me either way if spending the money on Helical / ATB diffs actually made a difference.. You sir have just swayed me.. Itll still have to wait but its something i can start looking into..
I havnt seen many people who could tell me either way if spending the money on Helical / ATB diffs actually made a difference.. You sir have just swayed me.. Itll still have to wait but its something i can start looking into..
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