Discussion
stevesingo said:
stevesingo said:
I believe this is your sump.
You can see the size of the opening through which the oil pump passes and the use of what appears to be sprung trap doors.
Now compare to a replica BMW MS sump
The aperture for the pump is much smaller and the cutout for the big end to pass through is a minimum. This stops the oil surging up the timing chain cover under heavy braking. It also uses rubber flap valves for the lateral baffles.
Keep an eye on your pressure when under braking!
You can see the size of the opening through which the oil pump passes and the use of what appears to be sprung trap doors.
Now compare to a replica BMW MS sump
The aperture for the pump is much smaller and the cutout for the big end to pass through is a minimum. This stops the oil surging up the timing chain cover under heavy braking. It also uses rubber flap valves for the lateral baffles.
Keep an eye on your pressure when under braking!
I've spent the past few days trying to contact VAC and speak with someone with regard to their sump and any problems they might have had with it. I even rang after the first 2 emails but still no response after the third. Considering this was a part that cost nigh on £1000 I think it warrants a reply.
Anyway, I have decided to go back to an OE lower pan and combine it with the horizontal baffle from Massive Lee and the vertical one, with the rubber flap, from Turner Motorsport. Hopefully, combined with the larger cooler from Mocal, that should take care of any surge issues. I bloody hope so anyway!
Anyway, I have decided to go back to an OE lower pan and combine it with the horizontal baffle from Massive Lee and the vertical one, with the rubber flap, from Turner Motorsport. Hopefully, combined with the larger cooler from Mocal, that should take care of any surge issues. I bloody hope so anyway!
Well the OE oil pan arrived and actually included the vertical baffle. I intended having the pan cleaned up but am unsure whether to remove the baffle and re threadlock the bolts etc? I just don't know who fitted them and whilst I'm pretty sure they'll be fine, there is still a nagging 'what if they came undone?' in the back of my mind.
I'm also wondering if I should have the baffles welded or simply sandwich between 2 gaskets?
The engine builder has found an issue with the main bearings and sent them back to King for inspection. Their tech' department were quick to point out that the bearings were not supplied in their packaging though, so there is nothing they can do other than inspect them. The supplier I used has not replied to any emails I have sent and it would appear I am not their only customer to have had problems.
I'm also wondering if I should have the baffles welded or simply sandwich between 2 gaskets?
The engine builder has found an issue with the main bearings and sent them back to King for inspection. Their tech' department were quick to point out that the bearings were not supplied in their packaging though, so there is nothing they can do other than inspect them. The supplier I used has not replied to any emails I have sent and it would appear I am not their only customer to have had problems.
MJK 24 said:
Seems like the inquest is progressing. Will be good to hear a definitive conclusion.
Definitely.I was a bit suspicious when the bearings arrived but the general consensus (on here) was that they seemed legit. The other recent negative feedback and ignoring emails doesn't inspire confidence either. It won't change anything I know, but as you say it'll give a definitive conclusion.
Authenticity of parts is becoming a big issue. Or has it always been?
I was turbocharging a mid 80’s VW na diesel. Went to my local German & Swedish looking for an Elring top end gasket set and a set of Febi head bolts. The bolts were supplied lose without any packaging. I asked if they were Febi and was assured they were.
Head torqued as per instructions. Torqued again when up to temp. And yet again after 500 miles.
Always used water. Became worse and worse until the inevitable steam from the exhaust etc.
Head removed for diagnosis. One of the head bolts, the washer was perhaps 1-2mm too wide. So it had torqued prematurely against the edge of the head casting, way before it was actually torqued.
Bought another set of head bolts. Only this time each bolt came in an individual Febi marked bag. Now uses no water. Live and learn.
I was turbocharging a mid 80’s VW na diesel. Went to my local German & Swedish looking for an Elring top end gasket set and a set of Febi head bolts. The bolts were supplied lose without any packaging. I asked if they were Febi and was assured they were.
Head torqued as per instructions. Torqued again when up to temp. And yet again after 500 miles.
Always used water. Became worse and worse until the inevitable steam from the exhaust etc.
Head removed for diagnosis. One of the head bolts, the washer was perhaps 1-2mm too wide. So it had torqued prematurely against the edge of the head casting, way before it was actually torqued.
Bought another set of head bolts. Only this time each bolt came in an individual Febi marked bag. Now uses no water. Live and learn.
There certainly seems to be far more fake parts available nowadays. I guess new technology makes a lot of things easier to copy and China appear to base a large part of their economy on cheap knock off stuff.
I'm always unsure when it comes to gaskets as some certainly appear better than others. Advice welcome.
I'm always unsure when it comes to gaskets as some certainly appear better than others. Advice welcome.
e30m3Mark said:
Well the OE oil pan arrived and actually included the vertical baffle. I intended having the pan cleaned up but am unsure whether to remove the baffle and re threadlock the bolts etc? I just don't know who fitted them and whilst I'm pretty sure they'll be fine, there is still a nagging 'what if they came undone?' in the back of my mind.
I'm also wondering if I should have the baffles welded or simply sandwich between 2 gaskets?
The engine builder has found an issue with the main bearings and sent them back to King for inspection. Their tech' department were quick to point out that the bearings were not supplied in their packaging though, so there is nothing they can do other than inspect them. The supplier I used has not replied to any emails I have sent and it would appear I am not their only customer to have had problems.
That is stock vertical baffle. Best practice is that the uppermost edge is extended vertically 12-15mm.I'm also wondering if I should have the baffles welded or simply sandwich between 2 gaskets?
The engine builder has found an issue with the main bearings and sent them back to King for inspection. Their tech' department were quick to point out that the bearings were not supplied in their packaging though, so there is nothing they can do other than inspect them. The supplier I used has not replied to any emails I have sent and it would appear I am not their only customer to have had problems.
Well the s14/2.3 is back together again and should be back in the car by the end of today. I'm still waiting on the vertical sump baffle though and I want to clean up the pan before it's fitted, so the Moroso will go back on for now. I won't be going on track etc till it's replaced though.
I definitely feel better about things. I've just bought new injectors to replace the Bosch greens I was running till now. I've tried not to stress too much about the cost, although I have had to work a silly amount of hours per week recently. Hopefully I can get some cash back on the Moroso sump etc and sell them off.
Once the engine is back in I can start looking at mapping.
Just out of interest, any suggestions on the best way to break in a freshly built s14?
Once the engine is back in I can start looking at mapping.
Just out of interest, any suggestions on the best way to break in a freshly built s14?
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