Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
I love Corrado's hence the user name. You're looks to be in good fettle, nice to see the sound deadening under the bonnet in good shape, bot Corrado's I owned it was tatty. My G60 ran a dyno'd 201 bhp at the fly, certainly went well in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear, always felt 1 and 2 were a bit short though.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
Love the G60's. Owned one in the past that was putting out 272bhp. Had it converted to a 16v with FMIC, gas flowed head and manifold, Quaiffe Diff, H&R coilovers, red top injectors, four branch manifold, Schlrick cams, Supersprint exhaust and 62mm pulley with Jeroen Diks chip, boy did it suffer from torque steer. It had an R1 spec charger from Darren at G-Werks, is he still around? Great service at the time.
darkyoung1000 said:
No boost gauge in the car unfortunately, so I used the MFA to give a reading - the output was healthy but as I had no rebuild history, I went for the safe option and got some minor porting work done at JMR at the same time.
Tom
That's a good call as a service is half the price of a new unit if you can source one that is. Tom
For the other chap, Gwerks went bust but I believe the main people involved are still operating in other VW tuning business. They used to do some pretty good kit for G60/G40 motors.
I get most of my bits from Bahn Brenner, bar-tek, autotec or good ol German & US ebay depending on exchange rates as there really don't seem that many G60 tuning part suppliers in the UK aside from JMR, Dubforce & OCD.
Must say I do like the sound of 16v G60 with a R1 spec charger. I'd love to build a 16vG60 but id have to find another suitable door as I couldnt bare to rip the original engine out of mine.
A brief update, although there's not an enormous amount to report since April.
I've made a discovery about the tyres - while Toyo Proxes T1R were my favourite brand for Corrados, I can't say the same about the Toyo Proxes4 which are currently fitted. Their level of wet weather grip leads a lot to be desired....which is to say that applying power in the wet while cornering (even just off dead ahead) generates wheelspin. In third (although it's worse in second). I've rarely before felt the back end begin to break traction either, but these tyres are the gift that keep on giving!
Having established the grip limits though, I can now moderate my inputs accordingly until such time as I've replaced them.
I managed to pick up a full sized spare (another Sebring to match those on it) for the bargain price of £0.99 plus shipping. Another £25 on a part worn tyre later (Continental Contact Sport) and I'm happier to travel long distances. I don't like space savers.
I have another year's MOT. This needed a new rear caliper and handbrake cable, and there's also an advisory on one of the brake lines. Still, a friend of mine has a roll of cunifer and a bending and flaring kit, so that's a weekend to come.
Immediately after passing the MOT I was rewarded by the striker pins in the driver's door breaking. The parts have arrived today, and the failed plastic elements will be replaced by new ones shortly.
The best thing however, is that the Corrado is still an absolute laugh riot to drive. It is FAR better balanced on a winding B road than the VR6 ever was. I acknowledge that the fresh suspension will play a part, but nonetheless, I went to Helmsley from York last week in the rain. A lot of rain. All previous comments about tyres aside (you can't really push it on that road anyway, too many unsighted corners) she is a handling delight, beautiful steering balance, throttle response and agility.
I really must get that oil cooler sorted though, even in the cool and wet, while pressing on, I saw 118 degrees on the oil temperature which I' don't like much.
Cheers,
Tom
I've made a discovery about the tyres - while Toyo Proxes T1R were my favourite brand for Corrados, I can't say the same about the Toyo Proxes4 which are currently fitted. Their level of wet weather grip leads a lot to be desired....which is to say that applying power in the wet while cornering (even just off dead ahead) generates wheelspin. In third (although it's worse in second). I've rarely before felt the back end begin to break traction either, but these tyres are the gift that keep on giving!
Having established the grip limits though, I can now moderate my inputs accordingly until such time as I've replaced them.
I managed to pick up a full sized spare (another Sebring to match those on it) for the bargain price of £0.99 plus shipping. Another £25 on a part worn tyre later (Continental Contact Sport) and I'm happier to travel long distances. I don't like space savers.
I have another year's MOT. This needed a new rear caliper and handbrake cable, and there's also an advisory on one of the brake lines. Still, a friend of mine has a roll of cunifer and a bending and flaring kit, so that's a weekend to come.
Immediately after passing the MOT I was rewarded by the striker pins in the driver's door breaking. The parts have arrived today, and the failed plastic elements will be replaced by new ones shortly.
The best thing however, is that the Corrado is still an absolute laugh riot to drive. It is FAR better balanced on a winding B road than the VR6 ever was. I acknowledge that the fresh suspension will play a part, but nonetheless, I went to Helmsley from York last week in the rain. A lot of rain. All previous comments about tyres aside (you can't really push it on that road anyway, too many unsighted corners) she is a handling delight, beautiful steering balance, throttle response and agility.
I really must get that oil cooler sorted though, even in the cool and wet, while pressing on, I saw 118 degrees on the oil temperature which I' don't like much.
Cheers,
Tom
ALBA MELV said:
Always had a soft spot for these buy the dub scene tax puts me off.
Good news then, the Corrado, for whatever reason, seems to dodge the scene tax that afflicts Mk2 Golfs etc. if you shop around for parts, you can still get things very reasonably....for a 20+ year old car 
Cheers,
Tom
Having had the driver's door striker pin snap immediately after the MOT a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to get it sorted, and hence set today aside for it. I label it a partial success....
There's a good guide on the VW Vortex forum which I don't intend to replicate, but I've some observations....
Getting the door card off is a simple job...ish. 4 Phillips screws, 3 of which are different (of course)
Two further secure the handle (the cover of which needs a large flathead to prise off)' then there's the trim to remove - door pin, door pull surround and the electrics to unplug - windows, mirror and speakers.
This allows you access to the central locking electrics which need to be unplugged before you can remove the handle if you want everything to work at the end. You can then remove the one screw holding the handle on and remove it and find the culprit - obvious in this case.
The Vortex guide specifies. 3.8mm drill bit for drilling it out. Unsurprisingly they are correct, but not having one, I started with a 3mm bit. Then files, screwdrivers, torx bits, bad language, a 3.2mm drill bit I finally found, more bad language, and finally a 4mm bit. Sod it, what's 0.2mm....
Got it!
Installing the new one (from Germany, made from stainless and better designed) was, in theory relatively simple. It took about and hour, lots of oil, more bad language and various implements. The instructions were excellent, it was my lack of the perfect tool to align the new pin, washer and original hole perfectly to drop in the holding pin. Delicate stuff.
.
However, it was all done, installed and reassembled, door card back on and tested....oh balls. The window now doesn't go down all the way because I've put the central locking wiring underneath it. Take it all apart again, reroute the wiring and try again. Much better!
I also took the opportunity to put some front speakers in - absent since buying the car. The replacements I bought were advertised as for the Corrado. What they actually meant was - generic cut a hole in the parcel shelf or drill your door card - specific to the Corrado. However, as I've had them since last November, too late to send them back! Time to improvise....
Bending the clips and popping out the speaker mesh meant they do fit and should be nicely hidden behind the OE speaker grills. This will be better than just using the rear speakers I think, or it will be later this week when the rain stops and I can finish the job. Can't wait to get the garage built!
I've also noticed something rubbing, but until such time as I go an get it on level ground and test each wheel undividually, I can't confirm what. I suspect the offside front rear splash guard on the brakes, but I'll find out as soon as possible....
There's a good guide on the VW Vortex forum which I don't intend to replicate, but I've some observations....
Getting the door card off is a simple job...ish. 4 Phillips screws, 3 of which are different (of course)
Two further secure the handle (the cover of which needs a large flathead to prise off)' then there's the trim to remove - door pin, door pull surround and the electrics to unplug - windows, mirror and speakers.
This allows you access to the central locking electrics which need to be unplugged before you can remove the handle if you want everything to work at the end. You can then remove the one screw holding the handle on and remove it and find the culprit - obvious in this case.
The Vortex guide specifies. 3.8mm drill bit for drilling it out. Unsurprisingly they are correct, but not having one, I started with a 3mm bit. Then files, screwdrivers, torx bits, bad language, a 3.2mm drill bit I finally found, more bad language, and finally a 4mm bit. Sod it, what's 0.2mm....
Got it!
Installing the new one (from Germany, made from stainless and better designed) was, in theory relatively simple. It took about and hour, lots of oil, more bad language and various implements. The instructions were excellent, it was my lack of the perfect tool to align the new pin, washer and original hole perfectly to drop in the holding pin. Delicate stuff.
.
However, it was all done, installed and reassembled, door card back on and tested....oh balls. The window now doesn't go down all the way because I've put the central locking wiring underneath it. Take it all apart again, reroute the wiring and try again. Much better!
I also took the opportunity to put some front speakers in - absent since buying the car. The replacements I bought were advertised as for the Corrado. What they actually meant was - generic cut a hole in the parcel shelf or drill your door card - specific to the Corrado. However, as I've had them since last November, too late to send them back! Time to improvise....
Bending the clips and popping out the speaker mesh meant they do fit and should be nicely hidden behind the OE speaker grills. This will be better than just using the rear speakers I think, or it will be later this week when the rain stops and I can finish the job. Can't wait to get the garage built!
I've also noticed something rubbing, but until such time as I go an get it on level ground and test each wheel undividually, I can't confirm what. I suspect the offside front rear splash guard on the brakes, but I'll find out as soon as possible....
Good work on the striker pins. I have the same kit to fit to one of my VR6s that has slightly dubious door lock on it.
What condition was the door membrane in? usually worth replacing or reinforcing the original stuff to prevent leaks.
Also regarding the point someone made about VW tax, if you shop around and are good at hunting then most parts can be just as easy to get & similarly priced to most mk2/3 golf bits.
It's mainly body panels which I find rather expensive, to get 1 decent front wing I ended up buying 3 that were described as "mint" which turned out to have nearly as much rust as my original one!
What condition was the door membrane in? usually worth replacing or reinforcing the original stuff to prevent leaks.
Also regarding the point someone made about VW tax, if you shop around and are good at hunting then most parts can be just as easy to get & similarly priced to most mk2/3 golf bits.
It's mainly body panels which I find rather expensive, to get 1 decent front wing I ended up buying 3 that were described as "mint" which turned out to have nearly as much rust as my original one!
Unfortunately both door membranes are missing, as were both speakers and I suspect that the two may not be unrelated....
The funny thing is that the door lock and the ignition lock are already on different keys, so I suspect that these door cards have been off on a number of occasions to the extent where someone just said 'sod it, I'll leave the membranes off'
Replacing them will be added to the jobs list....
Cheers,
Tom
The funny thing is that the door lock and the ignition lock are already on different keys, so I suspect that these door cards have been off on a number of occasions to the extent where someone just said 'sod it, I'll leave the membranes off'
Replacing them will be added to the jobs list....
Cheers,
Tom
darkyoung1000 said:
The funny thing is that the door lock and the ignition lock are already on different keys,
That's a Corrado thing, one of mine has 1 key that fits the driver's door handle and the other fits the ignition/passenger side/boot. My brother's has one key that does the ignition & both doors and another to do the boot.I got really lucky recently and purchased an entire lock set including handles, boot lock & even the glove box lid/lock for £50! Just got to fit them all which is a rather dull job.
aka_kerrly said:
That's a Corrado thing, one of mine has 1 key that fits the driver's door handle and the other fits the ignition/passenger side/boot. My brother's has one key that does the ignition & both doors and another to do the boot.
I got really lucky recently and purchased an entire lock set including handles, boot lock & even the glove box lid/lock for £50! Just got to fit them all which is a rather dull job.
Nice work! Sounds like a baragin - dull or not, it would be nice just to have the one key.... I got really lucky recently and purchased an entire lock set including handles, boot lock & even the glove box lid/lock for £50! Just got to fit them all which is a rather dull job.
I replaced the unbroken striker pin on the passenger side last night along with fitting the second speaker and reinstating the door card. Removing the striker pin that /isn't/ broken is a lot more tricky than removing one that is. Some inventive prying is required using pick sets and wedges, It also transpires that the passenger handle internals are of a slightly different design than the drivers one, and that enthusiastic drilling isn't required as much (and will in fact mark the spring). It would have been a lot easier to drift out the pin rather than drill it.
I realised this as I finished drilling it out.
I also found that the bottom of the inside of the passenger door is holding moisture and that the upright strut holding the window in place has started to corrode at the bottom where the moisture has collected. A very quick and dirty holding repair in the form of smothering it in grease for now, but I sense a future date with some K-rust/Jenolite, an drill and wire brush attachment and a high zinc content paint....
However, the good news, I have faith in my door handles and I can listen to the stereo again!
Cheers,
Tom
A planned few days off with a friend of mine down to assist has resulted in a productive day....
The G60 runs quite hot and it's not unusual to see oil temperatures of 114 degrees or more, just when cruising gently down the dual carriageway in the summer. Hence a popular modification is to fit an oil cooler to keep the oil at a more acceptable temperature, and one which I had wanted to do since buying the car and finding out how hot it runs in the summer.
I bought the kit last year - a 13 row Mocal, but hadn't done anything with it...until today.
Getting access to mount it involved taking the front bumper off, which in itself is a job involving undoing the front crossmember bolts, supporting the member on a jack and then not breaking all of the rusty bits (there are many - the front panel and the splitter mount being two great examples that need replacing. Tricky....)
Once you have access, there's the small matter of working out where to put the damn thing. Different people have chosen different places - I think I'm going for a vertical mount right next to the radiator. Photos hopefully tomorrow when this has been finalised and mounted.
While access is easy, I also took the opportunity to do the front engine mount. The photo below is the old one pre removal- the best way to get access is remove the fan from the back of the radiator and apply leverage using a breaker bar and a lot of extensions! The rear ones to be done tomorrow in what seems like a sod of a job....
Cheers,
Tom
The G60 runs quite hot and it's not unusual to see oil temperatures of 114 degrees or more, just when cruising gently down the dual carriageway in the summer. Hence a popular modification is to fit an oil cooler to keep the oil at a more acceptable temperature, and one which I had wanted to do since buying the car and finding out how hot it runs in the summer.
I bought the kit last year - a 13 row Mocal, but hadn't done anything with it...until today.
Getting access to mount it involved taking the front bumper off, which in itself is a job involving undoing the front crossmember bolts, supporting the member on a jack and then not breaking all of the rusty bits (there are many - the front panel and the splitter mount being two great examples that need replacing. Tricky....)
Once you have access, there's the small matter of working out where to put the damn thing. Different people have chosen different places - I think I'm going for a vertical mount right next to the radiator. Photos hopefully tomorrow when this has been finalised and mounted.
While access is easy, I also took the opportunity to do the front engine mount. The photo below is the old one pre removal- the best way to get access is remove the fan from the back of the radiator and apply leverage using a breaker bar and a lot of extensions! The rear ones to be done tomorrow in what seems like a sod of a job....
Cheers,
Tom
Well, the rear engine mounts and oil cooler are now done after a long stint in the garage yesterday (the day before ended up putting guttering on the new garage so it doesn't flood....
Anyway, the rear engine and gearbox mount was....surprisingly easy. Good access from up top with only a couple of brake lines in the way and took only a short time.
The off-side engine mount was a little more tricky, and involved removing a wheel for better access (the job is possible with it on, but easier with it off.
However, there is now much less 'rock' in the engine when being revved while stationary, a test drive today will reveal whether it feels better behind the wheel.
Most importantly however, it will also reveal how effective the new oil cooler is. I've been looking forward to fitting this since getting the car, it should make motorway cruising and pressing on less stressful. Previously a watchful eye was always on the oil temperature as it crept up beyond 116 degrees and made me worried at how effective the oil was being.
We went for an OE mount as possible (I think) meaning that it should get excellent airflow while being invisible from outside the car. It's mounted vertically on the off-side of the radiator, and takes the place of a formed plastic panel that was previously directing air towards the radiator. This should mean that despite the horn being slightly in the flow of air, it should receive full flow through the grill....
While it's been run up to temperature and checked for leaks, it seems like it's time for that test drive....
Cheers,
Tom
Anyway, the rear engine and gearbox mount was....surprisingly easy. Good access from up top with only a couple of brake lines in the way and took only a short time.
The off-side engine mount was a little more tricky, and involved removing a wheel for better access (the job is possible with it on, but easier with it off.
However, there is now much less 'rock' in the engine when being revved while stationary, a test drive today will reveal whether it feels better behind the wheel.
Most importantly however, it will also reveal how effective the new oil cooler is. I've been looking forward to fitting this since getting the car, it should make motorway cruising and pressing on less stressful. Previously a watchful eye was always on the oil temperature as it crept up beyond 116 degrees and made me worried at how effective the oil was being.
We went for an OE mount as possible (I think) meaning that it should get excellent airflow while being invisible from outside the car. It's mounted vertically on the off-side of the radiator, and takes the place of a formed plastic panel that was previously directing air towards the radiator. This should mean that despite the horn being slightly in the flow of air, it should receive full flow through the grill....
While it's been run up to temperature and checked for leaks, it seems like it's time for that test drive....
Cheers,
Tom
Test drive completed!
Oil now stays below 100 degrees at all times, and seems to be around the 90-92 degrees when making good progress. The highest seen was 96 degrees when sat on the driveway with no airflow.
I did get a warning light from forgetting to top up the coolant that came out when removing the radiator top hose though!
Very happy with the last week's work though - power steering pipe modification to allow better fabrication of a replacement panel next!
Cheers,
Tom
Oil now stays below 100 degrees at all times, and seems to be around the 90-92 degrees when making good progress. The highest seen was 96 degrees when sat on the driveway with no airflow.
I did get a warning light from forgetting to top up the coolant that came out when removing the radiator top hose though!
Very happy with the last week's work though - power steering pipe modification to allow better fabrication of a replacement panel next!
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks very much, there's a little way to go yet, but I'm getting there!
In terms of 'nose heavy' feel, and I say feel as I haven't done any form of scientific testing to back this up, but..... The VR6 on track, and even fast road (lovely sweeping A166 for example) would want to carry its momentum on much more so than the G60 or the 1.8/2.016vs that I've had. There was much more of a sense of weight over he front axle from the V6 under the bonnet, which may largely be down to its additional mass being further forward in the car.
At Elvington, the VR would understeer through the faster corners, with cones suffering as a consequence! I'm yet to take the G60 there as I've been waiting for the oil cooler before any track shenanigans. On the road however, it's much quicker to go where you tell it without the nose feeling like its fighting the tyres - the boost does an excellent job of that instead
All cars have been on standard 15" wheels with Reasonable tyres, so consistent feel in that regard at least!
Cheers,
Tom
In terms of 'nose heavy' feel, and I say feel as I haven't done any form of scientific testing to back this up, but..... The VR6 on track, and even fast road (lovely sweeping A166 for example) would want to carry its momentum on much more so than the G60 or the 1.8/2.016vs that I've had. There was much more of a sense of weight over he front axle from the V6 under the bonnet, which may largely be down to its additional mass being further forward in the car.
At Elvington, the VR would understeer through the faster corners, with cones suffering as a consequence! I'm yet to take the G60 there as I've been waiting for the oil cooler before any track shenanigans. On the road however, it's much quicker to go where you tell it without the nose feeling like its fighting the tyres - the boost does an excellent job of that instead
All cars have been on standard 15" wheels with Reasonable tyres, so consistent feel in that regard at least!
Cheers,
Tom
Minor fettling only this weekend, I've been trying to put an MOT fail Renault back on the road instead - I'd prefer killing it with fire, but it's a mate's car....
Upon removing the splitter and bumper as part of the oil cooler installation, there's a corroded panel that I need to get to and also the splitter mounting strip was rusted to hell.
Found a supplier on eBay and rather then fit straight away, time to give it a protective coating (hopefully that should make it last longer than the original....
Also applied glass fibre resin to the back of the crack in the splitter - not pretty, but should stop it getting worse (and it will look worse if I tried to do the front as well then paint it).
Hopefully get to fit those in the next couple of weeks, but sorting out the garage comes first!
Cheers,
Tom
Upon removing the splitter and bumper as part of the oil cooler installation, there's a corroded panel that I need to get to and also the splitter mounting strip was rusted to hell.
Found a supplier on eBay and rather then fit straight away, time to give it a protective coating (hopefully that should make it last longer than the original....
Also applied glass fibre resin to the back of the crack in the splitter - not pretty, but should stop it getting worse (and it will look worse if I tried to do the front as well then paint it).
Hopefully get to fit those in the next couple of weeks, but sorting out the garage comes first!
Cheers,
Tom
A couple of minor jobs today - which should leave me in a slightly better condition for next Sunday's Breakfast Meet at Malton.
Refitted the front splitter with its new and painted metal holding strip - exciting times...ish.
Then a minor cosmetic touch, but as the stereo fitted when I bought the car is very capable, but very....modern, I wanted to take a step backwards. I'm not an 'everything must be period' type, but something that glows less offensively blue would be nice!
Out with the old:
In with the new cage:
Ready for this:
It fits, but I think I may have to investigate further as it's 'on' even when it's off. The display goes dark, but it still responds to some button presses - a flat battery waiting to happen... Might be something to do with VW not following the ISO standard on switched and permanent live apparently. Further investigation tomorrow I hope!
Cheers,
Tom
Refitted the front splitter with its new and painted metal holding strip - exciting times...ish.
Then a minor cosmetic touch, but as the stereo fitted when I bought the car is very capable, but very....modern, I wanted to take a step backwards. I'm not an 'everything must be period' type, but something that glows less offensively blue would be nice!
Out with the old:
In with the new cage:
Ready for this:
It fits, but I think I may have to investigate further as it's 'on' even when it's off. The display goes dark, but it still responds to some button presses - a flat battery waiting to happen... Might be something to do with VW not following the ISO standard on switched and permanent live apparently. Further investigation tomorrow I hope!
Cheers,
Tom
darkyoung1000 said:
It fits, but I think I may have to investigate further as it's 'on' even when it's off. The display goes dark, but it still responds to some button presses - a flat battery waiting to happen... Might be something to do with VW not following the ISO standard on switched and permanent live apparently. Further investigation tomorrow I hope!
Yes, it's their anonoying CANBUS thing. I think you can get a CANBUS adaptor for aftermarket stereos.Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff